Although in tourist terms, Salzburg is geared towards everything Mozart, the city also offers a multitude of fascinating historical sights. There are ample churches, graveyards, gardens and alleyways dating back to medieval times. Salzburg is divided into an Old Town and a New Town, on opposite sides of the Salzach, and this chapter has been divided into areas of interest on both sides of the river, followed by a number of excursions. Depending on how much time you have, a walking tour is recommended to fully appreciate all that Salzburg has to offer (for more information, click here). As the exact opening times for some of the sights vary from year to year, you might want to check with the Tourist Information Office on Mozartplatz on arrival.
For the sights such as the zoo, the Untersberg and Hellbrunn Palace, you can take a bus from the railway station or Hanuschplatz. Hallein and Werfen can be reached by train from the railway station. A bus will take you to the Salzkammergut lake district (for more information, click here), but the area is better appreciated if you hire a car. You can also visit the Grossglockner High Alpine Road and the Krimml Waterfalls by car or on an organised excursion.
The gardens of Mirabell Palace
iStock
The Mönchsberg and environs
The great Mönchsberg rock which towers over the Old Town provides Salzburg with a spectacular backdrop of white cliffs. Some of the earliest people in the area settled on this mountain as it provided a natural defence against predators and invaders from nearby territories. A walk across the Mönchsberg’s ridge, strewn with old battlements, crumbling walls and contemporary sculptures, provides today’s visitors with panoramic and tree-framed views of Salzburg and is an excellent introduction to the city’s main sights. Below the eastern ridge is the Old Town, with the impressive baroque museum complex of DomQuartier Salzburg. Further to the northeast, across the Salzach River, is the New Town, built in the shadow of the Kapuzinerberg.
As well as the funicular train on Festungsgasse, there are many routes up the Mönchsberg if you don’t mind quite a steep uphill walk. A lift on Gstättengasse allows easy access to the Museum of Modern Art (for more information, click here).
Hohensalzburg fortress
Nataliia Fedori/iStockphoto
The Festung Hohensalzburg
On top of the Mönchsberg sits the magnificent fortress, the Festung Hohensalzburg 1 [map] (tel: 8424 3011; www.salzburg-burgen.at/en/hohensalzburg; daily Jan–Apr and Oct–Dec 9.30am–5pm, May–Sept 9am–7pm, Easter and weekends in Dec 9.30am–6pm, last entry 30 mins prior to closing; basic ticket includes the funicular to the fortress, access to the external parts of the fortress as well as to the interior area with an audio-guide tour, all the museums and Alm Passage, standard ticket also includes the prince’s apartments and the Mechanical Theatre).
The view from the fortress
iStock
The Hohensalzburg is the largest and best-preserved fortress in Europe, its dominating bastions, walls and towers making it the symbol of Salzburg. It has had a fascinating history under its many ruling archbishops. Construction began in 1077 under the reign of Archbishop Gebhard and it was enlarged and renovated up until the 17th century. Its late Gothic appearance is largely due to the building work of archbishop Leonhard von Keutschach, who ruled from 1495 to 1519 and was not only a religious leader but also, like many archbishops, a powerful temporal ruler. He thus needed constant protection from outside invasion and even revolts from within his own territories. During this period, the main building of the fortress was significantly enlarged. There is a marble memorial to von Keutschach on the wall of St George’s Church, and he is also commemorated by numerous insignia and coats of arms that include his curious personal symbol, the turnip, which was staple food in Europe before the introduction of potatoes. Since von Keutschach’s time, the lion that is the symbol of the fortress has held a turnip in its paws.
The Hohensalzburg was more than just a defensive fortress and residence in war-torn times. During periods when there was no direct military threat to the city, it was used as a barracks and a prison. Archbishop Wolf Dietrich von Raitenau was held prisoner there by his nephew and successor, Markus Sittikus, for five years until his death in 1617.
Hangman’s House
iStock
Hangman’s House
If you take the fortress tour up to the Reck watchtower, you will be rewarded with a spectacular view of the city and beyond. The white house in the middle of the open green space to the southwest is known as the Hangman’s House. It is said that such was the desire of the citizens not to live next to the city’s hangman that he was obliged to live alone in this isolated location.
The rich and lavishly decorated interior of the fortress is a breathtaking display of intricate Gothic wood carvings and ornamental paintings. Two rooms not to be missed are the Golden Chamber, which features stunning detailed wood ornamentation and a majolica ceramic oven from the 1500s, and the Golden Hall, with its magnificent wood panelling and carving, and a fascinating ceiling supported by large twisted pillars.
One unique exhibit is the Salzburger Stier (Salzburg Bull), possibly the oldest working barrel organ in the world, built in 1502 and lovingly restored, which roars out melodies by Mozart and Haydn.
The fortress contains no less than three museums, which span a variety of topics and can only be seen after an officially conducted tour of the fortress. The Rainer-Regiments-Museum (www.rainer-regimentsmuseum-salzburg.at) is full of military paraphernalia recalling the Imperial and Royal Regiment of Archduke Rainer; the modern Fortress Museum (www.salzburgmuseum.at) has medieval art, weapons, instruments of torture and a variety of everyday objects that illuminate the history of the fortress and its occupants. The Marionettenmuseum in the cellars of the fortress captures the spirit of the famous Salzburg Marionette Theatre with a display of historical puppets.
Even if you’re not particularly interested in ancient fortresses, Hohensalzburg is worth a visit just for the views. From the Reck watchtower you get a panoramic sweep of the Alps, and the Kuenburg bastion offers a fine view of Salzburg’s domes and towers.
Nonnberg convent
On the southeastern side of the Mönchsberg, to the east of the Hohensalzburg Fortress, is the Nonnberg Benedictine Convent 2 [map] (daily 7am–dusk; closed during Mass), which is the oldest convent in the German-speaking world. As with many buildings in Salzburg, fire destroyed the original and what we see today is a Gothic-style convent from the 1400s, though extensive renovations were carried out in 1895 and 1951. It is full of interesting artefacts, though visitors are only allowed into the church and St John’s Chapel.
Cemetery at St Peter’s church
magann/Fotolia
The convent was founded in c.712 by St Rupert, who promptly appointed his niece, St Erentrudis, as the first abbess. The founding patron of the Romanesque church, Henry II, built a basilica here in 1009, and the 12th-century frescoes are some of the most impressive wall paintings in Austria. The church was severely damaged by fire in 1423. In 1464, the abbess, Agatha von Haunsberg, began the reconstruction in a Gothic style, creating the unique crypt and the magnificent reticulate rib-vaulting. The tomb of St Erentrudis is located in the apse and most of the frescoes are from the 12th century. There is also a tombstone for Maria Salome, daughter of Archbishop Wolf Dietrich and his mistress, Salome Alt. In the nuns’ choir there is a winged altar with a central shrine revealing the Madonna between the two patron saints, Rupert and Virgil.
St John’s Chapel (near the entrance, ask for admittance at the porter’s lodge, daily 7am–dusk) features a Gothic-winged altar from the late 1400s. The four figures on the south door pay homage to St Erentrudis, the Virgin Mary, St Rupert and Emperor Henry II.
The Sound of Music footnote: in 1927 the real-life Maria Kutschera and Baron von Trapp were married at Nonnberg Convent. Maria had been a student here in 1924.
Salzburg’s signs
Salzburg is full of signs and insignias carved into walls and doorways. If you see ‘C+M+B’ and a year written in chalk above a door, this means that the carol singers dressed as the Three Wise Men have been to the house around 6 January and received a donation for charity.
Nonntal District – Kai Quarter
If you walk around the convent building and along the Nonnberggasse you will eventually come out at Brunnhausgasse. Follow this road to the right and you will get to the Leopoldskron district (for more information, click here), while heading left you will shortly reach the quiet Nonntaler Hauptstrasse. Situated here is the Erhardplatz, which sits in front of the church of St Erhard im Nonntal. Built in 1685 by the architect Johann Caspar Zuccalli, it has a richly decorated interior of stucco and a high altar painting by Johann Michael Rottmayr from 1692.
Below the Nonnberg Convent to the north is Kajetanerplatz, whose notable feature is the Kajetanerkirche St Maximilian 3 [map]. It was consecrated in 1700 and only properly finished after 1730, based on plans by Johann Zuccalli. The portrait of the Holy Family on the left side altar is by Johann Michael Rottmayr; all the other altar paintings and the ceiling fresco are the work of Paul Troger. The Holy Staircase (1712), to the left of the main body of the church, is based on the Scala Santa in Rome.
Leading off Kajetanerplatz is the quiet shopping street of Kaigasse, which is lined with shops, galleries and coffee houses. Most of these buildings were once the homes of priests. On Chiemseegasse, off Kaigasse, is an even more elevated ecclesiastical residence, the Chiemseehof 4 [map]. From the 14th century, this was the seat and residence of the bishops of Chiemsee in Bavaria, a filial diocese of Salzburg. The Chiemseehof is not open to visitors, as it now houses the province of Salzburg’s regional parliament (Salzburger Landtag) and government (Salzburger Landesregierung).
The Old Town and DomQuartier
The Altstadt (Old Town) is a combination of tall merchants’ houses and narrow alleys, along with the baroque buildings and squares of the Prince-Archbishops’ quarter. In 2014, the quarter was transformed into DomQuartier Salzburg (Residenzplatz 1; www.domquartier.at; all sights Wed−Mon 10am−5pm, also Tue July−Aug and Dec, Wed until 8pm in July−Aug; combined ticket to all sights), a museum complex centred around baroque art, with over 2,000 exhibits. The main sights it incorporates are: the Residenz State Rooms and Gallery, the Cathedral Museum, North Oratory and Organ Gallery, St Peter Abbey’s Museum and Long Gallery and the Cabinet of Curiosities. You can either embark upon a self-guided tour of all or selected sights with an informative audio guide (available in nine languages) or choose from a wide array of guided tours. As well as exploring these museums, visitors can experience places that have been inaccessible to the public for the last 200 years, like the cathedral terrace, linking the Residenz with the cathedral, with its impressive views of Salzburg and the mountains.
Residenzplatz
The largest square of the Old Town is Residenzplatz. It is used for seasonal markets and events, though one stunning constant is the Residenz Fountain, created by Tommaso di Garona between 1656 and 1661. The fountain is 15m (50ft) high and is said to be the largest and most beautiful baroque fountain outside Italy. If you are visiting in wintertime, though, you will find it covered up for protection against the elements.
The imposing Residenz Fountain
joachimberger/Fotolia
The Residenz 5 [map] was the residence and seat of the prince archbishops. A bishop’s residence had existed on this site since medieval times; the present building, an extensive complex enclosing three large courtyards, was built around the turn of the 17th century for Archbishop Wolf Dietrich von Raitenau.
The marble portal on Residenzplatz leads into the main courtyard which is the entrance to DomQuartier. Decorated in late baroque style, the state rooms and apartments of the Residenz feature fine wall and ceiling paintings by Johann Rottmayr and Martino Altomonte. As a member of the Salzburg court music ensemble, the young Mozart would regularly perform before invited guests in the Rittersaal (Knights’ Hall), which is still used as a concert venue today. On the third floor is the Residenz Gallery, where European paintings from the 16th to the 19th century are displayed.
East of the fountain is the Neue Residenz (New Residence), built by Archbishop Wolf Dietrich as a ‘guest wing’. In 1695, the famous Glockenspiel was added by Prince Archbishop Johann Ernst Graf Thun. Each day at 7am, 11am and 6pm the 35 bells ring out across the city, with the tunes changing according to the season (www.salzburgmuseum.at; guided tours end-Mar–Oct Thu 5.30pm, Fri 10.30am).
The Neue Residenz is home to the Salzburg Museum 6 [map] (entrance on Mozartplatz; www.salzburgmuseum.at; Tue–Sun 9am–5pm). The collection features art and artefacts from all periods of Salzburg’s history, ranging from prehistoric objects, such as a Celtic beaked pitcher and a Bronze-Age helmet, to a set of early 19th-century Romantic paintings of the city. The Rossacher Collection of baroque designs, sketches and bozzetti (sculptors’ initial models of their planned creations) was moved here in 2012 from the Baroque Museum, which has now been incorporated into the Salzburg Museum. Parts of the collection are presented at the North Oratory of Salzburg Cathedral which is part of DomQuartier. The Panorama Museum (entrance at Residenzplatz; www.salzburgmuseum.at; daily 9am–5pm) shows the fascinating panorama painting (26m/85ft long) of Salzburg and its surroundings by J.M. Sattler, documenting life in Salzburg around 1829.
Salzburg’s cathedral
iStock
The cathedral
Leaving Residenzplatz through the archways will bring you onto the Domplatz, home to Salzburg’s cathedral 7 [map] (May–Sept Mon–Sat 8am–7pm, Sun and hols 1–7pm, Jan–Feb and Nov until 5pm, Mar–Apr, Oct and Dec until 6pm; donation required). In the centre of the square is the statue of the Virgin Mary, a masterpiece of the Hagenauer brothers, created in 1766. Each year the opening of the Salzburg Festival is celebrated here with a performance of Jedermann (Everyman).
The cathedral, the most impressive baroque edifice north of the Alps, is the ecclesiastical centre of Salzburg. The original cathedral on this site was built by Bishop Virgil in 767. It was destroyed by fire in 1167, and ten years later a new cathedral was built on a grander scale, only to be destroyed once again by fire in 1598. The then archbishop, Wolf Dietrich, demolished the remains and dug up the graveyard in order to start rebuilding from scratch. But his plans were never realised as he was imprisoned by his nephew and successor, Markus Sittikus, who commissioned Santino Solari to rebuild the cathedral to a different design. The building escaped damage during the Thirty Years’ War and was consecrated with much pomp and ceremony. Much later, it suffered a third calamity during a bombing raid in 1944, when the dome was destroyed. The cathedral was re-consecrated in 1959 after renovations. At the gates of the cathedral you can see the dates of the three consecrations: 774, 1628 and 1959. The towering white statues at the cathedral gates depict the patron saints Rupert and Virgil (outside) and the two apostles Peter and Paul (inside).
The cathedral’s interior dates mostly from the 17th century. The only earlier survival is the 1321 font, supported by four even older 12th-century lions, where Mozart was baptised. One of the most impressive items in the cathedral is the massive and majestic organ, which is guarded by carved angels.
In the cathedral’s magnificent baroque oratories is the Cathedral Museum, part of DomQuartier (www.domquartier.at), which displays artefacts spanning its 1,300-year history, including medieval sculptures, baroque paintings and gold articles from the cathedral treasury. The oldest exhibit is St Rupert’s 8th-century crozier.
The Cathedral Excavations Museum (www.salzburgmuseum.at; July–Aug daily 9am–5pm), revealing ruins of the original Romanesque cathedral foundations, above-ground wall sections and excavations from a Roman villa, is entered around the corner on Residenzplatz, left of the main entrance (for more information, click here).
St Peter’s Abbey
Below the Hohensalzburg fortress, at the foot of the Mönchsberg, is the peaceful complex of Stiftskirche St Peter (St Peter’s Abbey) 8 [map], the oldest active monastery in Austria and part of DomQuartier Salzburg. Founded in c.696 by St Rupert, a Frankish missionary, St Peter’s is recognised as the spiritual centre around which Salzburg grew. Having been destroyed by fire in 1127 and thereafter subjected to many alterations, the church shows traces of several architectural styles. Its Romanesque tower, for instance, is topped by a baroque cupola. Similarly, the interior is high Romanesque, but the altars are definitively in the rococo style. Most of the altar paintings are by Martin Johann Schmidt, and show his characteristic style with its contrasts of light and dark. There is also a plaque dedicated to Nannerl, Mozart’s sister, and a memorial to the composer Johann Michael Haydn, the younger brother of the more famous Franz Joseph.
St Peter’s bore witness to the music of 13-year-old Mozart in 1769: he wrote his Dominicus Mass (K66) for the first Mass officiated here by his childhood friend Kajetan Rupert Hagenauer, later the abbot of St Peter’s. In 1783, Mozart’s Mass in C Minor (K427) was first performed here under the direction of the composer, with his new wife Constanze singing the soprano part.
Ornate gravestone in St Peter’s cemetery
Britta Jaschinski/Apa Publications
The church’s cemetery is sprinkled with beautiful wrought-iron grave markers. This is the final resting place of many of Salzburg’s aristocracy, and also of Nannerl Mozart, who died in October 1829. Bordering the cemetery are the famous catacombs (daily May–Sept 10am–6pm, Oct–Apr 10am–5pm). These were carved into the wall of the rock during early Christian times and emanate a spiritual eeriness.
On the right, next to the church, is Stiftskulinarium St Peter (daily 11.30am–11pm), a wine tavern since 803 and nowadays a traditional restaurant complex where you can enjoy the finest Salzburger Nockerl in town (for more information, click here) and the fantastic Mozart Dinner Concert (for more information, click here).
Kapitelplatz
If you leave St Peter’s by the cemetery exit, you will find yourself in Kapitelplatz, which is easily recognisable by the massive chessboard on the ground – right next to the stunning contemporary sculpture Sphaera (2007) by the German sculptor Stephan Balkenhol. The male figure on the golden shimmering sphere is the counterpart to Balkenhol’s Woman in the Rock, inserted in the rock face on Toscaninihof (west of St Peter’s). Also on Kapitelplatz is Neptune’s Fountain, built in 1732 by the sculptor Anton Pfaffinger on the site of one of the old horse ponds. During the summer months, Kapitelplatz is host to markets, sports events and many artists and musicians. On the far south side of the square, you will find the entrance to the Festungsgasse, which is the road up to the fortress and the Stieglkeller (mid-Apr–Dec daily 11am–11pm, early Jan–mid-Apr Wed–Sun only), a classic brewery pub offering good beer, food and a stunning panorama.
Johann Michael Rottmayr
Johann Michael Rottmayr (1654–1730) was a renowned baroque artist, born in Laufen, Salzburg Province, whose style was influenced by the Venetian art of painting in the 16th century. His speciality was ceiling frescoes – he designed and executed most of those in the Salzburg Residenz and also in the Viennese Winter Riding School. He designed the altar in the Universitätskirche in Salzburg and the original painting The Apotheosis of St Charles Borromeo (the intercessor for people stricken with the plague), which can be seen in the Residenz Gallery.
A controversial statue
Right from the start, the statue of Mozart in Mozartplatz has been the cause of controversy. Intended to commemorate the 50th anniversary of Mozart’s death, the statue was eventually unveiled a year late, at the 51st anniversary. As part of the unveiling ceremony, Mozart’s son, a minor composer and musician, performed only a few of his father’s works before moving on to play some of his own compositions. He was soon dismissed from the stage.
As for the statue itself, by all accounts it is not a very good likeness. And it includes a glaring anachronism. The composer is portrayed holding a pencil in his hand, even though pencils were not invented until 20 or 30 years after his death. Mozart would have written with a quill pen.
Mozartplatz
Walking from Kapitelplatz back to Residenzplatz and passing the Salzburg Museum brings you to Mozartplatz, a square dominated by a statue of Salzburg’s favourite son. The disappointingly small bronze statue of Mozart was unveiled on 5 September 1842 as the composer’s two sons looked on. His widow Constanze had died in March of that year, and at Mozartplatz No. 8 you will find a plaque dedicated to her memory. The statue, originally scheduled to be unveiled in 1841, had been delayed for a year because a Roman mosaic floor was discovered on the site during the preparations for its installation.
Mozart statue in Mozartplatz
davelogan/iStockphoto
Alter Markt
There are two main exits leading off Mozartplatz. To the east is Kaigasse, the main street in the old Kai Quarter (for more information, click here). To the west is Judengasse, home to the Jews of Salzburg until they were expelled from the city in 1498. This cobbled pedestrian street scores highly for charm and unusual shops, including a Christmas Shop, where you can buy yuletide decorations all year round, and a shop selling beautifully decorated eggs for use as Easter decorations.
Judengasse ends as you reach Alter Markt 9 [map], another of Salzburg’s busy squares. Besides the impressive fountain that surrounds a statue of St Florian, you will also find the chemist, Hofapotheke, the oldest in Salzburg and still displaying its medicinal preparations in old brown vials. Just opposite the chemist, at No. 10A, is the smallest shop in Salzburg, formerly a residence. If you are thirsty at this stage, have a coffee in Café Tomaselli, which has been in the Alter Markt since 1705.
Getreidegasse
Leading on from Judengasse, west of Alter Markt, is Salzburg’s most famous shopping street, Getreidegasse ) [map]. Whether you like shopping or not, you should have at least one walk down this busy pedestrian street. One of the first things you will notice are the skilfully crafted wrought-iron guild signs that hang above most of the shops and give the street its special character. Also of interest are the numerous passageways and courtyards leading off the Getreidegasse, notably the Schatz-Haus-Passage which has an impressive relief of the Madonna and Child and enters onto Universitätsplatz. Looking up you may notice that as the houses get taller, their windows get smaller, creating a strange optical effect. There are shops here selling traditional Dirndl (women’s dresses) and Loden clothes (made of felt-like woollen cloth) and others offering authentic Austrian food.
The Getreidegasse is also part of the pilgrimage trail for Mozart fans: No. 9 is Mozart’s Birthplace ! [map], the house where he was born on 27 January 1756 and lived with his family until 1773. The Mozarts’ apartment on the third floor and the rooms on the second floor have been transformed by Robert Wilson into a slick museum (www.mozarteum.at; daily Sept–June 9am–5.30pm, July–Aug 8.30am–7pm; last entry 30 mins prior to closing). On display are manuscripts (facsimiles), documents and souvenirs, and portraits of the family members, including Mozart at the Piano, an unfinished 1789 oil painting by Wolfgang’s brother-in-law, Joseph Lange. Also here are instruments that were played by the great musician: his concert piano and clavichord, his concert and child’s violin, and a viola.
All of the passageways leading off Getreidegasse to the south reach Universitätsplatz (University Square), which is home to the academic district and the Kollegienkirche (Collegiate Church) @ [map] (daily 9am–6pm; free), one of Johann Bernhard Fischer von Erlach’s finest achievements. The interior is immensely high and features an array of angels on stucco clouds surrounding the Madonna. Universitätsplatz is the site of the daily vegetable market, which can be rather expensive.
Horse Pond and Fountain
iStock
Festival District
Just east of here on Herbert-von-Karajan-Platz is the picturesque Pferdeschwemme (Horse Pond and Fountain), which incorporates a stunning mural of horses. The fountain was built in 1695 to serve as the washing area for the prince archbishops’ horses that were kept in stables next door.
The Felsenreitschule theatre
Britta Jaschinski/Apa Publications
These stables along Hofstallgasse have latterly been occupied by the famous Festspielhäuser £ [map] (Festival Halls; www.salzburgerfestspiele.at; guided tours daily July–Aug 9.30am, 2pm and 3.30pm, Sept–June 2pm). This is where, each year in high summer, Salzburg plays host to one of the best-known music festivals in the world, the Salzburger Festspiele. The festival is centred on the three main venues here, though other locations around the city are also used. Based around the old Riding School, which was built in 1693 to train the archbishop’s cavalry, the present Festival Halls still preserve the original façade of the baroque horse stables. Nowadays, the Felsenreitschule (Riding School) is a theatre with a retractable roof for open-air performances, hosting high-calibre operas and dramas. Next to the Felsenreitschule is the House for Mozart. This, the former Small Festival Hall, has been completely rebuilt with dramatically increased capacity. Adjoining the Felsenreitschule on its other flank is the 2,177-seat Grosses Festspielhaus (Large Festival Hall), designed by the Austrian architect Clemens Holzmeister (built 1956 to 1960) and inaugurated by the conductor Herbert von Karajan. Guided tours – the only way to see the Festival Halls unless you attend a concert – provide a fascinating insight into the world of theatre.
The eastern end of Hofstallgasse opens into Max-Reinhardt-Platz, where the Rupertinum (www.museumdermoderne.at; Tue and Thu–Sun 10am–6pm, Wed until 8pm) houses an important art collection of 20th-century works, with changing exhibitions. It is part of the Museum der Moderne Salzburg (Museum of Modern Art), with the main exhibition high up on Mönchsberg (for more information, click here).
Altar in the Franciscan Church
iStock
East of the Rupertinum is Sigmund-Haffner-Gasse, where you will find the entrance to the Franziskanerkirche (Franciscan Church) $ [map] (daily 6.30am–7.30pm; closed during Mass), an elegant combination of baroque, Romanesque and Gothic styles. A church was originally built here in the 8th century, but the city fire of 1167 destroyed all but the nave. Rebuilding around this core soon commenced and the building was consecrated in 1223. More additions followed, and the church was finally completed in 1460 by Stephan Krumenauer. Originally part of St Peter’s Abbey, it was handed over to the Franciscans by Archbishop Wolf Dietrich. Definitely worth a look is the high altar by Johann Bernhard Fischer von Erlach and the Gothic statue of the Virgin Mary by Michael Pacher.
In the court Dietrichsruh just north of the church, the sculpture AWILDA (2010), the 5m-high (16ft) head of a young woman, by the contemporary Catalan artist Jaume Plensa, contrasts with the baroque architecture of the university buildings.
Around Gstättengasse
At the northeastern side of the Mönchsberg (for more information, click here) is the Gstättengasse, where old houses are snugly built into the rock of the hill. In 1669, a rockfall killed 220 people, which is why there are rock cleaners whose job it is to scale the vertical rocks after the snow has melted to chip away at any loose stones or potential hazards.
At the northern end of Gstättengasse is another Mozart statue % [map], Markus Lüpertz’s controversial sculpture Homage to Mozart. It was erected in 2005 in anticipation of the 250th anniversary of Mozart’s birth the following year and lends a modern touch to Ursulinenplatz. The former Ursuline Chapel is now called St Mark’s Church (Markuskirche). After the original chapel was destroyed by the 1669 rockfall, it was rebuilt and completed in 1705 by the architect Johann Bernhard Fischer von Erlach, who had to accommodate his design to suit the complicated wedge shape of the site.
Around the corner at Museumsplatz is the Haus der Natur ^ [map], Salzburg’s modern Museum of Natural Science and Technology (www.hausdernatur.at; daily 9am–5pm). As well as the usual stuffed specimens, it has an impressive collection of live reptiles and a 36-tank aquarium. Besides wildlife, there are also mineral and geology displays and the Space Research Hall, with a life-size diorama of man’s first steps on the moon. The museum also stages exhibitions and has a lovely terrace café. Just past the southern end of Gstättengasse is the Church of St Blasius, one of the oldest Gothic hall churches in existence (1330–50). The former civic hospital adjacent houses the Spielzeugmuseum & [map] (Toy Museum; www.salzburgmuseum.at; Tue–Sun 9am–5pm). Displayed here are all kinds of old toys – such as dolls’ houses, miniature trains and railways, optical illusions, musical instruments and paper theatres – giving a fascinating insight into the childhood pleasures of times past. The colourful interactive exhibition has very different play areas – be it with teddy bears or wooden tools to construct big cranes. This is fun for the whole family, starting with free felt slippers to feel at home right from the beginning.
The minimalist Museum of Modern Art
Britta Jaschinski/Apa Publications
Museum of Modern Art
A lift at Gstättengasse 13 allows access to the top of the Mönchsberg, where you will find the Museum der Moderne * [map] (Museum of Modern Art; www.museumdermoderne.at; Tue and Thu–Sun 10am–6pm, Wed until 8pm). Straight lines, shimmering glass and bright white stone create a stark minimalist edifice, which dominates the northwestern ridge of the Mönchsberg, 60m (200ft) above the shores of the Salzach. Built on the site of the old Café Winkler, which crowned the plateau for many decades, the building, designed by the Munich architects team Friedrich Hoff Zwink, opened in 2004. It respectfully incorporates the old tower into its new structure. The four levels, clad with bright white Untersberg marble, are designed to accommodate an ever-changing and diverse range of exhibitions, plus permanent collections. The glass ceilings and the use of stairways as natural light shafts add to the viewing pleasure. If you are feeling peckish and have some cash to spare, then try out the m32 restaurant, which offers one of the best panoramic views of the city. The museum can also be reached by walking along the Mönchsberg from the fortress (for more information, click here). Close to the museum you also find some contemporary sculptures, including Numbers in the Woods by Mario Merz, forming part of the Salzburg Art Project 2002–2011. From 2002 to 2011 a different international artist was invited annually to execute a work in a public space, turning Salzburg into an outdoor sculpture park.
Mülln
North of the Mönchsberg is the Mülln district of Salzburg. This neighbourhood is home to a celebrated brewery run by monks, Augustinerbräu ( [map] (www.augustinerbier.at; Mon–Fri 3–11pm, Sat–Sun 2.30–11pm). Visitors can enjoy the strong brown ale in a grand and delightfully traditional tavern, where the large beer garden is a great place to meet locals and tourists during the summer months.
The brewery and tavern at the Mülln Monastery have been in existence since 1621, hence the unique taste of the beer, which is brewed using traditional, old-fashioned methods. The monastery, built on the northern slopes of the Mönchsberg between 1607 and 1614, was founded by monks of the Augustine order, who were called to Salzburg from Bavaria by Archbishop Wolf Dietrich. When the monks began to dwindle in number during the 19th century, the monastery was handed over to the Benedictines from Michaelbeuern. It is now the parish church of Mülln. The interior dates from 1738 and has magnificent examples of delicate baroque detail.
The Salzach River divides the Old Town from the New
Natalia Bratslavsky/iStockphoto
The New Town
Linzergasse
The Staatsbrücke (State Bridge) over the Salzach leads to the new side of town – though it’s only new in comparison with its ancient counterpart across the river. Walking directly over the bridge you will reach Linzergasse , [map], which brims with historical sights and stories. Many of the old houses were built during the 14th and 15th centuries, though a devastating fire in 1818 caused serious damage to the north side of the river. The Linzergasse was rebuilt and several of the old burgher houses were renovated and still line the street today. The house at No. 3 was the residence of the natural scientist Paracelsus (Theophratus Bombastus von Hohenheim), who lived here between 1540 and 1541. On the wall of the Hotel Gablerbräu is a plaque dedicated to the operatic baritone Richard Mayr, born here in 1877.
St Sebastian’s Church
Just opposite the Gablerbräu is the grand entrance to the climb up the Kapuzinerberg, the hill that dominates the skyline on the north side of town (for more information, click here). Slightly further up the Linzergasse is the entrance to the Church of St Sebastian ⁄ [map]. The original Gothic church was built between 1505 and 1512 by Archbishop Leonhard von Keutschach. Deteriorating over the years, it was torn down in 1750 and replaced with a baroque hall. The town fire of 1818 destroyed parts of the church, most regrettably the ceiling frescoes and high altar painting. The church was renovated again in 1820 (only the 1752 rococo doorway remains from the former church building), and more restoration work was completed in 1996.
Definitely worth a visit is the adjoining cemetery (daily summer 9am–6.30pm, winter 9am–4pm), which is surrounded by four arcades, and scattered with tombs, shrines and holy relics. Built by Archbishop Wolf Dietrich, the cemetery is dominated by the Chapel of St Gabriel in the centre, which contains his mausoleum. The chapel has a remarkable interior: the walls are clad with tiny coloured ceramic tiles, which contrast dramatically with the brilliant white stucco. The surrounding cemetery is the final resting place of many of Salzburg’s best-known names, including Paracelsus, Mozart’s widow Constanze and his father Leopold.
The Stiftung Mozarteum
In 1880, the International Mozarteum Foundation was formed to ‘perform and propagate Mozart’s music’. Today, the Foundation runs two museums in the city. Its collections include the composer’s original letters and sheet music and numerous performances of his work.
The Foundation is best known for its two long-running concert series. Mozart Week (Mozartwoche) is held in late January, with a 10-day presentation of the composer’s works to mark his birthday on 27 January. Performances often include concerts by the Vienna Philharmonic Orchestra and concertos by star pianists. In summer, the Foundation’s concert series forms a key part of the Salzburg Festival (for more information, click here).
For Mozart Week information and tickets, contact the Mozarteum Foundation’s Ticket Office at Theatergasse 2 (tel: 873 154; www.mozarteum.at). For Salzburg Festival schedules and tickets, visit the festival website at www.salzburgerfestspiele.at.
Makartplatz
A short walk northwest from the Staatsbrücke brings you to Makartplatz, dominated by the awesome Church of the Holy Trinity (Dreifaltigkeitskirche, 1694–1702). No. 8 Makartplatz is Mozart’s Residence ¤ [map] (www.mozarteum.at; daily Sept–June 9am–5.30pm, July–Aug 8.30am–7pm; last entry 30 mins prior to closing; may be closed in Mozart Week in Jan), where the Mozart family lived from 1773 to 1780. The house does not offer much in terms of architectural beauty. It did, however, offer exactly what Leopold Mozart wanted: more space than their former home on the Getreidegasse for the family to live and especially for Wolfgang to work. Indeed, Mozart produced many symphonies, concertos, arias, masses and other sacred music in this house. After he had flown the nest, his mother had died and his sister had married, only Leopold remained in the house.
After Leopold died in 1787, the house had many owners. It was only in 1989 that the International Mozarteum Foundation was able to purchase the building, which had been rebuilt as an office block after a bomb struck it in 1944. In 1994, the Foundation tore down the office building and began rebuilding according to the original plans of the house. Today it is a museum that displays exhibits from the Mozart family and old musical instruments.
Opposite Mozart’s family house is the Landestheater (Regional Theatre) and, behind it, the Marionettentheater (Puppet Theatre) and the Stiftung Mozarteum, making this area one of the artistic centres of the city. Built in 1892, the Landestheater is the centre of Salzburg’s cultural programme, giving performances of all kinds throughout the year, including ballet and opera.
Performances in the Marionettentheater (Puppet Theatre) often include full operas enacted by the diminutive wooden characters on strings. The theatre’s puppeteers have travelled the world performing their classic operas and plays.
The Stiftung Mozarteum ‹ [map] (Schwarzstrasse 26; www.mozarteum.at) is the headquarters of the foundation of the same name (see box, click here), dedicated to the research and development of Mozart’s music. The complex includes concert halls and recital rooms. This institution is not to be confused with the Universität Mozarteum (east of Mirabell Gardens), the world-famous academy for music and drama (with a wide range of performances).
Salzburg and The Sound of Music
Film lovers will recognise Salzburg and its environs as the setting for The Sound of Music. Most people know that the film was based on fact.
The central character, Maria, was born in 1905. A strict upbringing developed an antipathy towards religion in her. After a chance meeting with a priest, she changed her views and joined the Nonnberg Convent. To aid her recovery from an illness, she was sent as governess to the home of Georg von Trapp, a widower with seven children. Love blossomed, Maria and the captain were married and had three children of their own. The von Trapp children were a musical bunch before Maria arrived, but she developed their skills further. When the Austrian Bank closed and Georg was penniless, the children began to sing for money. The von Trapps fled Austria in 1938.
Fans of the movie come here to retrace the big-screen von Trapp family’s footsteps. The song Do Re Mi was sung in the Mirabell Gardens around the fountain. St Peter’s Cemetery was reconstructed in the studios and used for the scene where the von Trapp family hide between tombstones while trying to escape the Nazis. The façade of Frohnburg Castle became the front of the von Trapp villa, while Leopoldskron Castle was the rear. (The real von Trapp villa, at Traunstrasse 34, has been open to guests at the Villa Trapp hotel since 2008, for more information, click here. Exhibitions were held here in 2015 for the 50th anniversary of the musical.) The opening scenes in the convent were filmed at Nonnberg Convent, the opening credit scenes around Lake Fuschl and the wedding at the church in Mondsee. The von Trapp family make their escape over the Untersberg, although in reality this would not have taken them straight to Hitler’s Eagle’s Nest (for more information, click here).
In the manicured grounds of Mirabell Palace
iStock
Mirabell Palace and Gardens
Next to the Landestheater is the entrance to the Mirabell-Garten (Mirabell Gardens) › [map], comprising geometrically designed flowerbeds, fountains, an orangery, a rose garden and lawns adorned with sculptures based on classical mythology. In The Sound of Music, this was where Maria and the children danced around the statue of Pegasus singing Do Re Mi. On the west side of the parterre is an open-air theatre, with trimmed hedges marking the wings and entrances, and next to it an idyllic shady garden decorated with marble dwarfs (there is also a pleasant children’s playground).
The Mirabell Palace was built in 1606 by Archbishop Wolf Dietrich, who wanted a residence outside the town walls for his mistress Salome Alt and their children (of whom 10 survived infancy). The archbishop named the palace Altenau. After his imprisonment in the fortress and his death, his nephew and successor Markus Sittikus renamed the palace Mirabell in an attempt to conceal the blasphemous memory of its original purpose. Between 1721 and 1727, the palace was remodelled by Archbishop Franz Anton von Harrach. The stunning marble staircase is the work of Johann Lukas von Hildebrandt, with acrobatic cherubs added by the sculptor Georg Raphael Donner in 1726. The richly adorned marble hall, where the Mozart family once performed, was at one time the dining room. Today it is used for concerts and is hugely popular as a wedding venue.
Mirabell Palace in the New Town
Britta Jaschinski/Apa Publications
In 1818, the Mirabell was badly damaged in the great fire that ravaged the New Town. Fortunately the marble staircase and hall survived. The current neoclassical style of the palace is thanks to Peter de Nobile, who was the court architect in Vienna and added the detailed work around the windows and the stuccowork.
Many well-known personalities have stayed at the palace, including Prince Otto of Bavaria, who later became the King of Greece, and the legendary Capuchin monk Joachim Haspinger, who died in the palace in 1858. Today, the palace is the office of the Mayor of Salzburg (Bürgermeister) and the administration. That is why only certain parts of the building are open to the public (staircase daily 8am–6pm; marble hall Mon, Wed and Thu 8am–4pm, Tue and Fri 1–4pm).
Stefan Zweig
An influential Austrian author, Stefan Zweig (1881–1942) lived in Salzburg between the two world wars. Much translated in the 1930s, Zweig’s writings included short stories, novels, literary essays and biographies of Marie Antoinette and Maria Stuart notable for their use of psychoanalytical theories. Although of Jewish origin, he described himself as an ‘accidental Jew’.
Kapuzinerberg
Opposite the Hotel Gablerbräu on the Linzergasse is the entrance to the path that leads to the top of Kapuzinerberg, Salzburg’s highest point at 636m (2,087ft). The hill was inhabited during Neolithic times, and the two settlements above the monastery have been dated to 1000 BC.
On the walk up you pass the six baroque Stations of the Cross, which were built between 1736 and 1744. Halfway up is the Felix Gate, dating from 1632, which offers the first panoramic view of the city. At this point there is another path called Imbergstiege, which takes you past St John’s Chapel and meets up with another path at the Kanzel or pulpit, where you will be rewarded by the breathtaking views of the city. Not surprisingly, the forests and quiet location of the Kapuzinerberg make it a haven for wildlife, including deer and badgers.
One cannot climb the Kapuzinerberg without visiting the Kapuzinerkirche (Capuchin Monastery) fi [map], which was originally a military tower and fortification system erected by nervous archbishops during the Middle Ages. It was Archbishop Wolf Dietrich who called the Capuchin monks to Salzburg in 1594 and transformed the fortification into a monastery and church. The monastery is surrounded by a wall, which runs from the Felix Gate and straddles the western, southern and eastern slopes. The towering cross and bastion of the monastery are dominant features of the landscape, though the monastery itself is very modest. The Gothic oak door of the inner portal is said to be a relic from the old Salzburg Cathedral. The interior of the monastery church is simple, befitting a life of devotion.
Kapuzinerberg 5 is the former residence of the writer Stefan Zweig, who chose the house for its tranquil location. Having lived in Salzburg since 1919, he fled Austria in 1934 following Hitler’s rise to power. He first lived in England (in Bath and London) and then the US before moving to Brazil in 1941, where he and his wife both committed suicide because of their concern for the future of Europe. There is a memorial to Zweig next to the Capuchin Monastery.
Salzburg’s environs
Leopoldskron Lake and Palace
A short walk south from the Nonntal area of the Old Town takes you to the Leopoldskron district, which contains the lake and palace of the same name. The Schloss Leopoldskron (Leopoldskron Palace) fl [map] was built by Archbishop Firmian in 1736 in rococo style. The archbishops used the palace for centuries, but in the early 20th century, it was bought by Max Reinhardt, one of the founders of the Salzburg Festival. He had it totally renovated and the gardens laid out in their present form. Now the property of an American institute, it is used for conferences and seminars but unfortunately is not open to the public. However, you can see the palace from the lakeside path, which provides a lovely walk at any time of year. In the summer, the swans are wonderful to watch and in winter, the Salzburgers love to use the lake for ice-skating and curling matches.
The lake and the house featured in the filming of The Sound of Music. The rear of the house was used as the von Trapp villa and the boating scene was filmed on the lake.
Hangar-7
If you are in the vicinity of the airport, it’s worth paying a visit to Hangar-7 ‡ [map] (Wilhelm-Spazier-Strasse 7A; www.hangar-7.com; daily 9am–10pm; free). Completed in 2003, it was built to house a collection of vintage aircraft. The hangar is a glass and steel dome in the shape of an aircraft wing and constitutes one of the highlights of modern architecture in Salzburg. Situated on the eastern apron of Salzburg’s airport, there are two buildings. The first and largest is the hangar that is open to the public. Facing and mirroring it on a smaller scale is Hangar-8, the maintenance hangar.
The museum on the ground floor not only houses aircraft, but also Formula 1 racing cars from the Red Bull teams. During the summer months, many of the aircraft are at various air shows around Europe and may not all be on display. However, there are changing art exhibitions to view throughout the year. There is also a bar, a café and a top-class restaurant, Ikarus (for more information, click here).
Stiegl’s Brauwelt
Not far from the airport and Hangar-7 is Stiegl’s Brauwelt ° [map] (Stiegl’s World of Brewing; Bräuhausstrasse 9; www.stiegl.at; daily July–Aug 10am–7pm, Sept–June 10am–5pm; last entry 1 hour prior to closing). Stiegl, probably the favourite local brew in Salzburg, is served in many of the pubs and restaurants around town. The brewery has been here for over 500 years and is the oldest one that is privately owned in Austria.
Attached to the brewery is a museum housing the world’s largest beer exhibition. There is a display of brewing techniques, machinery and unusual equipment through the ages. The tour reveals how the beer is produced and provides a chance to taste some samples.
The 17th-century Hellbrunn Palace
repistu/iStockphoto
Hellbrunn Palace
A short bus ride (route No. 25) from the railway station takes you south to Hellbrunn Palace and Gardens · [map] (Schloss Hellbrunn; www.hellbrunn.at; palace open daily Apr and Oct 9am–4.30pm, May–June and Sept 9am–5.30pm, July–Aug 9am–9pm; gardens open daily summer 6am–9pm, winter 6.30am–5pm; park and orangery free). The palace was built between 1613 and 1615 as a hunting lodge and summer residence for Markus Sittikus. Its architect, Santino Solari, was also the man responsible for the reconstruction of Salzburg Cathedral. The Hellbrunn Festival is held in the palace and gardens every August.
Trick fountain at Hellbrunn Palace
Mockford & Bonetti/Apa Publications
The palace itself is not very large, and the interior is no longer complete, but it’s worth visiting to see the wonderful Italian murals in the banqueting hall and the adjoining music room in the octagonal pavilion. The palace’s trick fountains also delight visitors. Markus Sittikus had these built to amuse himself and his guests (but particularly himself). The Roman Theatre has stone seats that spew out water without warning, so Sittikus’ guests would be unexpectedly soaked (as visitors still are today). Funnily enough, this does not happen to the archbishop’s chair at the top. There are also many charming grottoes featuring similar watery surprises based on mythological themes. If you are carrying expensive camera equipment, make sure you are ready to cover it up quickly. Hydraulics also drive a large mechanical theatre, with moving figures and an organ that runs on water power.
The park area surrounding the palace dates from 1730, although some of its sculptures are from the early 17th century and include a statue of Empress Elisabeth. The pavilion that was used in The Sound of Music was relocated here from its original place at Leopoldskron.
Also in the grounds, about a 20-minute walk from the palace, is the Stone Theatre, formed by a natural gorge, where the first opera in the German-speaking world was presented in 1617.
On Hellbrunn Mountain, still inside the park, stands the Monatsschlössl (Month Castle), so-called because it was allegedly built in only one month. It houses a Folklore Museum (Volkskunde Museum; www.salzburgmuseum.at; daily Apr–Oct 10am–5.30pm), which displays costumes, masks, religious artefacts and agricultural equipment from the lively history of Salzburg.
The Föhn
Situated so close to the Alps, Salzburg experiences a phenomenon called the Föhn for about 45 days of the year. A Föhn is created when air is forced up one side of a mountain range, causing it to expand and cool and lose its water vapour. When the dry air starts to move down the north side of the Alps, it warms as the pressure increases, creating strong, gusty, warm and dry winds. When a Föhn blows into Salzburg, it is enough to lay the whole city low. Headaches, asthma attacks and frayed nerves are common; the suicide rate, crime and traffic accidents increase. However, a Föhn day is generally a lovely day, bringing subtropical temperatures in summer and warm, pleasant days in winter.
Also on the mountain is Salzburg Zoo (www.salzburg-zoo.at; daily Nov–Feb 9am–4.30pm, Mar until 5.30pm, Apr–May and Sept–Oct until 6pm, June–Aug until 6.30pm; last entry Apr–Oct 1 hour prior to closing). There has been a zoo on this site since 1421. Originally, it housed only alpine animals, but it has since been extended to include species from all over the world. Over 800 creatures can be seen here – many of them (no dangerous ones) allowed to roam freely around the grounds and beyond. There are often monkeys on the paths, storks in the nearby fields and vultures circling in the thermals above the Untersberg. From August until early September, the zoo is open on Friday and Saturday evenings until 10.30pm (last entry 9pm) for ‘Night Zoo’ sessions, when the nocturnal animals are the star performers.
Klessheim Palace
Matthias Kabel
Klessheim Palace
The main part of Schloss Klessheim (Klessheim Palace) º [map], about 1.5km (1 mile) west of the city centre (No. 18 bus), was built by Austria’s greatest baroque architect, Johann Fischer von Erlach, for Archbishop Johann Ernst Graf Thun between 1700 and 1709. He used designs and ideas from Versailles palace and gardens and eventually completed the construction in 1732.
It was used by the archbishops until Salzburg came under the control of the Habsburgs. In the late 19th century, Emperor Franz Josef banished his homosexual younger brother, Archduke Ludwig Viktor, to Klessheim Palace after Ludwig had sparked a public scandal by making advances to an army officer in a swimming pool in Vienna. He died here in 1919.
Between 1938 and 1945, Hitler used the palace as his residence when he was in Salzburg. It was here that he met the Italian dictator Mussolini in 1940 and other heads of state from Hungary, Czechoslovakia and Romania. After the war, it became the headquarters of the occupying army. Then for a long time it was used by the provincial government to receive important state visitors such as Queen Elizabeth II.
Since 1993, it has housed the only year-round casino in Salzburg Province. You can enjoy the gardens and a few rooms of the palace free, but to enter the casino (daily 3pm–3am) there is an admission fee which provides you with your first gaming chips. Minimum age for entry is 18 and you must provide some photo identification. As well as the No. 1 bus from the city centre, shuttle buses operated by the casino run from 5.30pm from town to the casino (tel: 854 455), returning hourly from 5pm to any location in town.
View of the Untersberg from the Mönchsberg
repistu/iStockphoto
South of Salzburg
Untersberg
The highest mountain in the vicinity of Salzburg is the Untersberg ¡ [map], to the southwest. It can be seen for kilometres around as it juts up from the flatlands and towers 1,853m (6,078ft) above sea level. The mountain is a limestone massif with deposits of salt and marble. The terrain is craggy and steep, making it a strenuous climb on foot. If you do not have a car, you can take bus No. 25 to the bottom station of the cable car in Grödig (daily July–Sept 8.30am–5.30pm, Mar–June and Oct–Nov 8.30am–5pm, Jan–Feb and Dec 9am–4pm). Alternatively, there is a cycle path that takes you all the way there. On a clear day, the views from the top are incredible. You can see the whole of the Salzburg basin, into Bavaria, the Watzmann (the second highest mountain in Germany) and as far as the Lake District (Salzkammergut) to the east and the Hohe Tauern mountains in the south. There are a few easy walks from the top station of the cable car to the viewpoints. For those who do not want to venture too far, there is a panoramic view from the top station.
Legends of the Untersberg
According to legend, dwarfs, giants and wild virgins all live on the Untersberg. However, the mountain’s main mythical character is Emperor Karl the Great, who is said to sleep within the mountain. Legend foretells a time when the ravens that circle the summit will stop and the Emperor’s beard will have grown three times around a marble table. Then he will rise and fight the battle of good versus evil. The venue for this battle is quite specific: the pear tree in Wals. Once victorious, the Emperor will hang up his shield and an era of happiness and prosperity will follow. Other legends view the rising of the Emperor as Judgement Day, when the Antichrist will appear and do battle with angels.
Less portentously, historians debate the importance of the Untersberg during Celtic times, when Salzburg was geographically almost central in the Celtic empire. Given the pattern of early settlements found around Salzburg, it may be that the Untersberg was of great religious importance, and many of the mountain’s legends have possible links with the political and religious propaganda of the early Middle Ages. Certainly few mountains in the Alps have generated such colourful mythology.
Tucked beneath the northwest slopes of the Untersberg is the village of Grossgmain ™ [map], which has an Open-Air Museum (Freilichtmuseum; www.freilichtmuseum.com; July–Aug daily 9am–6pm, late-Mar–June, Sept–early Oct Tue–Sun 9am–6pm, early Oct–early Nov 9am–5pm, late Dec–early Jan 9am–4pm; last entry 1 hour before closing). The museum is one of the top attractions in the area and has won numerous awards. It includes a collection of around 100 old farmhouses that have been transferred from different parts of Salzburg Province and reconstructed with meticulous care. They span the last five centuries, showing how building and farming methods have changed and developed.
There are also many old farm machines to be viewed, and on Sundays and public holidays craftsmen demonstrate the old trades, from woodwork to beekeeping, shoemaking to beer-brewing. The museum covers an area of 50 hectares (125 acres), so you will need a full day to see it all.
Countryside surrounding Berchtesgaden
Britta Jaschinski/Apa Publications
Berchtesgaden
Just 30km (18 miles) south of Salzburg, across the border in Germany, is Berchtesgaden # [map]. Set amid beautiful alpine scenery dominated by the impressive peaks of Germany’s second-highest mountain, the Watzmann (2,713m/8,900ft), this delightful little town encapsulates all the attractions of the Bavarian Alps, including painted houses and wonderful views. But the area also has a dark side. The village of Obersalzberg, just above the town, was where in 1934 Hitler bought a chalet known as the Berghof (Mountain House), and had it decorated in the most pretentious style, with massive furniture and heavy fireplaces. It became his country retreat, where he entertained his cronies, Nazi Party functionaries and, in 1938, Neville Chamberlain, the British prime minister. A Gestapo headquarters was established nearby, and beneath it all was a network of underground bunkers. Most of these buildings, including the Berghof, were destroyed in an Allied air raid in 1945, and the remains were blown up by the West German government in 1953.
In the village, the fascinating Dokumentation Obersalzberg (www.obersalzberg.de; Apr–Oct daily 9am–5pm, Nov–Mar Tue–Sun 10am–3pm; last entry 1 hour prior to closing) explains the bigger picture of the Third Reich.
You can still visit the Kehlsteinhaus or Eagle’s Nest – the ‘teahouse’ built by Martin Bormann as Hitler’s 50th birthday present from the Nazi Party (www.kehlsteinhaus.de; daily mid-May–mid-Oct). It sits precariously on the top of Kehlstein mountain at 1,834m (6,017ft). Parking for cars is in Obersalzberg, where you can catch a bus to the summit, up a mountain road that was built specifically to reach the Eagle’s Nest, a remarkable feat of engineering. Once at the top, you board the original brass-lined lift for the 124m (406ft) ascent to the house itself. Part of it is now a restaurant and provides fantastic views.
Also located in the Berchtesgaden area are the ancient Salt Mines (Salzbergwerk; www.salzbergwerk.de; tours daily May–Oct 9am–5pm, Nov–Mar 11am–3pm, Apr 10am–3pm). Salt has been mined here since 1517, and still is today. Visitors are issued with old miners’ clothing to take a tour of the mines, accompanied by a miner (you also get an audio guide), starting in a small wagon on railway tracks. The rest of the tour includes sliding down a miners’ chute and taking a ferry across an underground salt lake. One feature not to be missed is the ‘chapel’, a grotto of oddly shaped salt formations illuminated to eerie effect.
A tranquil scene at Königssee with St Bartholomä
iStock
Königssee
To the south of Berchtesgaden, and within the Alpen Nationalpark Berchtesgaden, lies Königssee ¢ [map], one of the most beautiful lakes in the region. The narrow fjord-like lake runs 9km (5.6 miles) north–south in the shadow of the Watzmann, its giant east face rising almost straight out of the water. There is a car park near the small village of Königssee, at the northern end of the 192m (630ft) deep ‘fjord’. From here you can take a boat trip along the whole length of the lake. As only a small part of Königssee is visible from the village, the trip is highly recommended, to fully appreciate the stunning beauty of the scenery. The first stop (and final one in winter) is St Bartholomä, where there is a pretty baroque church with twin onion domes and a restaurant serving wonderfully fresh fish from the lake. The second is Salet at the lake’s southern tip. There is a commentary on board in English about the lake’s history, and the aims of the Alpine National Park Berchtesgaden and the Unesco Biosphere Reserve. To keep pollution levels down the tourist boats are electric and, apart from rescue boats and farmers’ boats, they are the only powered craft allowed on the lake.
Hallein
About 15km (10 miles) south of Salzburg lies the busy little town of Hallein ∞ [map], the second-largest town in Salzburg Province and the district capital of the Tennengau. You can reach it either by train or by car via the A10 Tauern motorway. Hallein has a delightful old town on the banks of the Salzach River. Most of the houses in the old town were built in the late Middle Ages, and many were renovated in the 1980s. Until the early 1990s, the town’s Perner Island was an industrial site with a large salt processing plant, but it has now been turned into a cultural centre and every year stages a number of performances during the Salzburg Festival.
Dürrnberg Salt Mines
Britta Jaschinski/Apa Publications
A large paper mill is the town’s main employer, but in former years salt mining brought wealth to Hallein. Salt was discovered on the Dürrnberg by the Celts, and was mined there as recently as 1989. Now the mines are closed and have been turned into a museum. A tour of the Dürrnberg Salt Mines (Salzwelten; www.salzwelten.at; guided tours daily, Apr–Oct 9am–5pm, Nov–Mar 10am–3pm) demonstrates how salt was mined, explains the importance of salt and gives visitors the chance to go on an underground boat trip and to slide down an old miners’ chute. Also included in the Salzwelten ticket is the Celtic Village, a reconstruction of a village showing how the Celts lived and worked.
Franz Xaver Gruber’s grave
Britta Jaschinski/Apa Publications
Back in the town, the Celtic Museum (Pflegerplatz 5; www.salzburgmuseum.at; daily 9am–5pm) houses a fascinating collection of archaeological finds from the area, including equipment used by the miners, as well as priceless burial offerings. The Silent Night Museum (Gruberplatz 1; www.salzburgmuseum.at; closed for restoration until September 2018) is a celebration of the famous Christmas carol whose composer, Franz Xaver Gruber (1787–1863), is buried in Hallein in front of his house (museum). He was organist and choirmaster here since 1835, but composed the famous carol as early as 1818, when teaching at a primary school in the village of Arnsdorf.
Werfen
If you continue south from Hallein along the A10 for another 29km (18 miles), you reach Werfen § [map], a small market town situated on what was an important trade route for salt. The town is strung along a wide road and is pleasant to walk through. The parish church, built between 1652 and 1657, contains a very impressive baroque altar and early baroque side altars.
Hohenwerfen Castle
Tobboo/Fotolia
Castle Hohenwerfen (www.salzburg-burgen.at/en/hohenwerfen-castle; Apr and Oct–mid-Nov Tue–Sun 9.30am–4pm, May–mid-July and mid-Aug–Sept daily 9am–5pm, mid-July–mid-Aug daily 9am–6pm) was built in 1077 to guard the trade route. Frequent additions up to the 16th century have given it a fairy-tale appearance. It was used as a prison for many centuries and among those locked up there was Archbishop Wolf Dietrich von Raitenau in 1611. According to folklore, the dungeons in these castles were sometimes filled to capacity with innocent people, including Protestant missionaries who had offended the archbishops of Salzburg in some way. It is said that these ‘unwanted sorts’ were locked up in darkness in solitary confinement for years and only set free after they had gone mad.
The castle has an interesting armoury and Austria’s first falconry museum, and there are falconry displays several times a day. The castle was used as a location for the 1968 film Where Eagles Dare.
Eisriesenwelt
The caves of Eisriesenwelt (World of the Ice Giants; www.eisriesenwelt.at; guided tours daily May–June and Sept–Oct 8am–3pm, July–Aug until 4pm; charge includes cable car), northeast of Werfen, are the largest ice caves in Europe. They stretch for about 42km (26 miles), although only a fraction of that length is open to the public. Fantastic ice ‘statues’ and frozen waterfalls extend for about 1km (0.5 mile) from the entrance. The ice formations are created during the winter months when the water in the caves freezes, so the best time to see them is in the spring and early summer before the formations have started to melt again.
Drive or take a bus from Werfen’s main square, to the car park by the visitor centre. Then it’s a 20-minute walk to the cable-car station. In order to enter the caves, you have to take one of the many guided tours that start at regular intervals. As the temperature inside is always around freezing point, wear warm clothing – and sensible shoes to negotiate the narrow slippery passages. The caves are not recommended for the elderly, infirm or young children. Although it’s quite a strenuous excursion, it is certainly worth the effort.
Rural encounter
Britta Jaschinski/Apa Publications
The Grossglockner Road
One of the most spectacular scenic routes through the Alps is the Grossglockner High Alpine Road ¶ [map] (Grossglockner Hochalpenstrasse). The Grossglockner itself is Austria’s highest mountain at 3,798m (12,460ft). It is situated in the Hohe Tauern range of mountains and in the national park of the same name, which straddles the provinces of Salzburg, East Tyrol and Carinthia.
The job of planning the road, running 48km (30 miles) between Bruck and Heiligenblut, was given to the engineer Franz Wallack in 1924. Construction started in 1930, taking five years. The road had to be rebuilt after World War II, having been seriously damaged by tank movements. Until the Felbertauern tunnel was built, this was the main road linking the provinces of Salzburg and Carinthia via the Alps. Since 1935, some 60 million people have made use of the road. It is popular with cyclists, motorcyclists – there are special facilities for parking motorbikes and equipment lockers along the route – car drivers and coach groups. On some sunny summer days, there can be thousands of people making the pilgrimage along this road.
A toll road, it is officially open from the beginning of May until early November (www.grossglockner.at; daily May 6am–8pm, June–Aug 5am–9.30pm, Sept–late Oct 6am–7.30pm, late Oct–early Nov 8am–5pm, last entry 45 mins before closing), but sometimes summer snowfalls can close it for days at a time. Before you set off, it’s worth checking with the Ferleiten Information Point (tel: 6546 650) whether the road is actually open or not. The ticket you buy at the tollbooth gives you access to the road’s exhibitions and sights.
There are various viewpoints to stop at along the way. The Fuscher Törl, which lies at 2,428m (7,966ft) above sea level, has a memorial built by Clemens Holzmeister to commemorate those who died during the construction of the road. The highest point of the through road is the Hochtor at 2,503m (8,212ft). You will be quite likely to find snow up here even in August. But if you take the detour to the Franz-Josefs-Höhe, which is highly recommended, you can reach an even higher point called the Edelweissspitze, at 2,571m (8,435ft).
You have the best view of the Grossglockner from the Franz-Josefs-Höhe (2,369m/7,772ft), where there is a lift that takes you down to the Pasterze Glacier (note that the glacier is shrinking and so the bottom of the lift is now about 300m/yds away from the start of the glacier). This is where you are most likely to see marmots lying in the sun – or hear their whistles when alarmed. Access to walks and visitor centres are included in your ticket.
The road takes you through a variety of vegetation zones and is quite fascinating. There are also many activities to do with the family at places such as Fuscher Lake, at 2,262m (7,421ft), where there is an exhibition about the construction of the road. There is a geology path and, at Schöneck, a botanical path. Various restaurants are dotted along the route, but it is recommended to avoid lunchtimes at the Franz-Josefs-Höhe, as the restaurants there are very busy catering for the numerous coach parties.
Krimml Waterfalls in the Hohe Tauern National Park
Britta Jaschinski/Apa Publications
Krimml Waterfalls
At the very western end of the Salzach Valley, just before the Gerlos road starts its steep ascent over the pass to the Tyrol, lie the Krimml Waterfalls • [map] (Krimmler Wasserfälle; daily mid-Apr–Oct; free in winter, but there is no guarantee that the path will be passable and safe). Like the Grossglockner, they are part of the Hohe Tauern National Park. With a drop of 380m (1,247ft), the Krimmler Wasserfälle are the highest waterfalls in Europe and make a magnificent spectacle as they plunge down the mountainside in three stages. The falls are at their most impressive in the spring and early summer when the melt-waters turn the stream into a torrent. The Krimmler Ache starts at the Krimmler Kees glacier before plummeting down the falls.
The path up to the falls is relatively steep, but not difficult, and there are benches and viewing platforms all along the route where you can rest your legs while admiring the rainbow colours in the spray of the falls.
The first waterfall is 140m (460ft) high and the most spectacular of the three. This one can be viewed from the bottom without any strenuous walking. The walk from the car park will take around 10 minutes. Walking from the bottom of the first falls to the second, which is 100m (330ft) high, will take half an hour. Then to the top falls (a 140m/460ft drop), it’s another hour’s climb. Allow plenty of time to get back before nightfall.
The falls have been popular with visitors for many years. The first rough steps to the top of the first falls were built in 1835. The existing path was completed in 1897, built by the local branch of the Alpine Club. For keen walkers there are several further trails that can be explored from the top of the falls.
In WasserWunderWelt (The Wonderful World of Water) at the bottom of the falls, information panels describe the flora and fauna in the area, as well as hydro-energy. There is also a multivision cinema.
The Salzkammergut
The Salzkammergut (Salt Chamber Estate) refers to the wealth that salt brought to the region, but it is an area that today is more famous for its lakes and alpine scenery than for its salt industry, and is also known as the Lake District. The area extends from Fuschl near Salzburg to the Almtal in the east, with impressive peaks and more than 70 lakes. It is one of Austria’s most popular tourist regions and often considered to be the jewel of the nation. The area has been popular with visitors since Emperor Franz Josef spent his summers in Bad Ischl.
On the shore of Fuschlsee
Britta Jaschinski/Apa Publications
Fuschlsee
The first lake you come to heading east from Salzburg is Fuschlsee ª [map]. About 25km (15 miles) from the city, it can be reached by the A1 motorway or along the B1/B158 (the prettier route). The lake is 4km (2.5 miles) long and wonderfully warm in the summer. The steep, wooded slopes rising along its shore curve to its eastern shore where the village of Fuschl lies. This quiet little resort is popular with walkers in the summer and also offers water sports. If the countryside looks familiar, it may be that you recognise it from the opening titles of The Sound of Music, which was filmed here.
On the opposite shore, in its own extensive grounds, is Schloss Fuschl. This was originally a hunting lodge of the prince archbishops, then during World War II it was used as headquarters by Hitler’s Foreign Minister Joachim von Ribbentrop. Since the late 1950s it has been a luxury hotel, with its own golf course, where Richard Nixon and Nikita Krushchev, among other notables, have been entertained.
Picturesque façades in the village of St Gilgen
Britta Jaschinski/Apa Publications
Wolfgangsee
About 7km (4.5 miles) further southeast from Fuschl lies the quaint little village of St Gilgen. Stretched along the northern shore of Wolfgangsee q [map] (Wolfgang Lake), it is a popular destination for holidaymakers in summer and winter. The Wolfgangsee itself is 10km (6 miles) long and 2km (1.2 miles) wide. With water temperatures of around 26°C (78°F) in summer, it is popular for a variety of water sports.
St Gilgen is famed as the birthplace of Mozart’s mother, Anna Pertl (1720–78). Although the composer himself never came here, there is now a Mozart multimedia show (June–Sept Tue–Sun 10am–noon and 3–6pm) in the house where his mother was born. His sister Nannerl also lived in the house after her marriage, but she moved to Salzburg in 1801 when her husband died. The Mozart fountain and the parish church (1376) are also worth a visit.
For walkers and skiers, the Zwölferhorn lift takes you to the top of the Zwölferhorn mountain at 1,522m (4,993ft). In summer, the summit is a starting point for many alpine walks, while in winter, beginners and families ski here.
The village is also a good place from which to take a boat across the lake to St Wolfgang. The boats – some of which date from the 1880s – run a regular service from April to October. The journey is a wonderful way to appreciate the beauty of the countryside. Alternatively, you can drive the 18km (11 miles) along the whole of the southern shore of the lake and along most of the northern shore until you reach St Wolfgang.
Sailing on the Wolfgangsee
Britta Jaschinski/Apa Publications
This village is probably the most overtly touristy of all the locations on the Wolfgangsee, but when you see it hugging the shore and protected by the Schafberg towering 1,783m (5,850ft) above it, you will understand why. The village has a long history as a pilgrimage destination following its foundation in 976 by St Wolfgang, the bishop of Regensburg. According to legend, he built the village’s first small church, which is allegedly a site of miracle cures. It is certainly one of the most beautiful churches in the region. Inside, it has a winged altar created by Michael Pacher in 1481 and three baroque altars by Meinrad Guggenbichler from 1706.
The village is also famous for its White Horse Inn, a hotel with a wonderful lakeside terrace. It was the inspiration for Ralph Benatzky’s operetta Im Weissen Rössl am Wolfgangsee, which was first performed in Berlin in 1930.
A trip up the Schafberg on the funicular railway (mid-May–late Oct) is not to be missed. On a clear day, you have the most breathtaking view of the Salzkammergut with its lakes and mountains spread below. The railway was built at the end of the 19th century and has been operational for over 100 years. For steam train enthusiasts, the old steam-fired train does occasional nostalgia trips. For timetable and fare information, see www.schafbergbahn.at.
Mondsee
The nearby lake of Mondsee w [map] lies approximately 30km (19m) east of Salzburg and is easily reached on the A1 motorway. An alternative route is the Romantikstrasse from St Gilgen, taking you under the Schafberg and along the western shore of the Mondsee. The lake has a reputation for being the warmest in the Salzkammergut and it is popular for all kinds of water sports in summer. The market town of Mondsee is worth visiting to see its church, originally part of a large Benedictine monastery. It was founded in 748, although construction of the church began in 1470. Built in Gothic style, it has a 17th-century baroque interior. This was where the wedding scene in The Sound of Music was filmed.
The extensive Neolithic stilt settlements in the lake, which are well documented in the Pfahlbaumuseum (www.pfahlbauten.de; Apr–Sept daily 9am–7pm, Oct–Mar schedules vary, so check the website) were given Unesco World Heritage status in 2011.
