This delicate pared-down example of a ceviche – a dish where citrus juice is used to ‘cook’ raw fish – was devised by River Cottage head chef, Gill Meller. The bass is marinated in lime juice which, combined with lots of fresh mint, gives a lovely cool, fresh, uplifting taste. It’s almost a sea bass mojito. If possible, use line-caught wild sea bass. Black bream also works well, but again go for line-caught rather than farmed.
Serves 4–6
2 skinless fillets of very fresh wild sea bass or black bream (about 300g in total)
Juice of 4 limes
3 teaspoons caster sugar
A small bunch of mint, leaves only
1 small green or red chilli (optional)
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Using a sharp knife, cut the fish into bite-sized pieces, working across the grain of the fillet. Carefully check the fish for any bones, scales or scraps of skin – you want completely clean flesh. If in doubt, rinse the fish briskly in fresh cold water, then pat dry immediately with a spotlessly clean kitchen cloth.
Put the fish into a bowl with the lime juice and sugar. Season well with salt and a twist of black pepper. Have a taste at this point. If you feel it needs a little more sweetness or acidity, add more sugar or lime juice. Allow the fish to marinate for at least an hour, or up to 3 hours, in a cool place.
Shortly before serving, chop the mint and deseed and very finely slice the chilli, if using. Turn the chilli and/or mint through the marinated fish. Have a final taste and adjust the seasoning – it may need a little more sugar, a pinch of salt or some more mint.
Serve the ceviche on its own, or with a fresh cucumber salad sprinkled with some toasted, crushed hazelnuts.
ANOTHER TAKE I also like a zingy grapefruit and ginger version of this ceviche. Use 1 large pink or ruby grapefruit and prepare as for the oranges here. Put the juice in a bowl with the fish. Finely grate a large chunk of root ginger, wrap the pulp in a scrap of muslin and squeeze out the ginger juice into the bowl. Leave to marinate with the sugar and seasoning. When the fish is ready, add the grapefruit segments too – and the chilli if you like. A little finely diced shallot is another nice addition.