The salty pungency of anchovy works a treat with rich, creamy egg yolk, so I crush the fillets on to toast to make anchovy soldiers – a delectable, rather grown-up variation on a classic, dippy theme. Anchovies need to be carefully sourced, as they are under considerable threat in some areas. I like Fish 4 Ever’s Mediterranean anchovies; you can also buy Marine Stewardship Council-certified ones from the Bay of Biscay.
Serves 2
6–8 anchovy fillets in oil, plus a little of the oil from the can or jar
4 large eggs, at room temperature
2 large slices of good bread
1 garlic clove, halved (optional)
Put the anchovy fillets into a small dish or on to a plate, keeping their oil separate. Mash the anchovies to a coarse purée, using a fork.
Bring a pan of water to the boil. Add the eggs, return to the boil and cook for exactly 4½ minutes to give you a set white and a nice runny yolk, which I prefer (but fix your boiled eggs how you like them). Remove the eggs from the pan and transfer to egg cups.
While the eggs are boiling, toast the bread. Rub each piece with the cut surface of the garlic clove (unless, of course, you’re not in a garlicky mood). Trickle a little of the anchovy oil over each piece of toast, then spread roughly with the anchovy purée. Cut the toast into soldiers.
When the eggs are ready, transfer them to egg cups. Eat straight away, with the anchovy toast soldiers for dipping.
SWAPS It doesn’t have to be toast that you dip into your egg: lightly cooked asparagus and purple sprouting broccoli stems are also fantastic dippers. In both cases, smear a little crushed anchovy on to the veg with a knife before you dip.