This may sound an unlikely combination but the pairing of oily fish and sharp fruit is an old idea. Often gooseberries are used, or plums, but rhubarb works particularly well – and technically, it is a vegetable! You can use early forced rhubarb, or outdoor-grown later in the year. The oatmeal crust gives a lovely crisp nutty-tasting coating to offset the sweet and sour rhubarb.
Serves 2
2 medium-thick rhubarb stems or 3–4 smaller, thinner ones (about 150g)
20g caster sugar
A pinch of thyme leaves (optional)
4 mackerel fillets from 2 medium fish
100g medium oatmeal
Rapeseed or sunflower oil for frying
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Trim the rhubarb, then cut into 2–3cm pieces. Place in a pan with the sugar, thyme leaves, if using, and 1 tablespoon water. Partially cover with a lid and cook gently, at a bare simmer, for 5–7 minutes. Don’t stir the rhubarb or it will lose its shape. When it is tender, remove the pan from the heat.
Season the mackerel fillets all over with salt and pepper. Spread out the oatmeal on a plate. Coat the fillets on both sides, pressing the oatmeal on well and gently shaking off any loose bits. (For a decent coating, the mackerel should be ‘tacky’. If the oatmeal doesn’t stick, brush the fillets with just a little milk, and try again.)
Heat about 2 tablespoons oil in a large frying pan over a medium heat. Add the mackerel fillets, flesh side down, and cook for 3 minutes, until the oatmeal coating is crispy and golden brown. Then carefully flip them over and cook for 2 minutes on the skin side, until cooked through. Transfer the fish to warm plates and accompany with a spoonful of the warm rhubarb compote. Serve with bread and/or a green salad.
SWAPS You can use herring or sardine fillets, instead of mackerel, allowing 3 or 4 per person. A tart compote of gooseberries or plums makes a good seasonal change from the rhubarb.