The nutty ‘goat Cheddar’ made by Quickes is my first choice cheese for this, but any firm, well-flavoured cheese would work, including Parmesan or regular Cheddar. You can ring the changes with the mushrooms too: large, flat, dark-gilled varieties are ideal, but you could include some fresh wild mushrooms, or a small handful of dried porcini or ceps, rehydrated in boiling water.
Serves 4
For the polenta
400ml milk
A few black peppercorns
½ onion and/or 2 bashed garlic cloves
1 bay leaf (optional)
A sprig of thyme (optional)
150g quick-cook polenta
20g butter
2 tablespoons olive oil
For the mushrooms
2 tablespoons olive oil
A large knob of butter
About 500g mushrooms, trimmed and sliced
1 teaspoon thyme leaves (optional)
1 large garlic clove, chopped
A squeeze of lemon juice
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
To serve
Goat’s Cheddar or other firm cheese
Put the milk for the polenta and 400ml water into a saucepan. Add the peppercorns, onion and/or garlic, and bay leaf and thyme if using. Bring almost to the boil, then take off the heat. Set aside to infuse for 20 minutes.
Strain the infused liquid into a clean pan. Bring to a simmer, then add the polenta in a thin stream, stirring as you do so. Stir until smooth and let it return to a simmer. Cook for 4–5 minutes, then take off the heat. Stir in the butter and season well, adding at least ¼ teaspoon salt. Mix well, then tip the polenta on to a cold plate or marble slab. Smooth into an even disc, about 2cm thick, and leave to cool completely.
When cold, cut into wedges or thick fingers.
Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large, non-stick frying pan over a medium-high heat and fry the chunks of polenta for 2–3 minutes each side, until they form a light, golden brown crust. Keep hot while you cook the mushrooms, using the same pan.
It’s best to cook the mushrooms in two batches (to ensure they fry rather than stew). Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil and half the butter in a large frying pan over a medium-high heat. When foaming, add half the mushrooms and thyme, if using, and a pinch of salt. Fry briskly, stirring often, until the liquid released has evaporated and the mushrooms are starting to colour. Add half the garlic and cook for another minute or two. Season with more salt and pepper and a tiny squeeze of lemon juice and then transfer to a warmed dish. Keep warm while you cook the rest of the mushrooms in the remaining oil and butter.
Put the polenta wedges on warm plates and add the mushrooms. Finish with fine shavings of goat’s Cheddar or other cheese and a sprinkling of salt and pepper.