Eighteenth-century lappets came in a variety of shapes, sizes, lengths and styles. This popular bit of head decor was worn in one way or another through the entire century. Lappets could be passed down through the generations, especially if they were made from very fine lace.
It can be difficult and expensive to lay hands on lace lappets from any period today. This tutorial will show you how to create your own by cleverly combining historically plausible lace. Though this lace is narrow, the straight edge allows an attractive join that doubles the width and gives a pleasing finished appearance.
Choosing historically plausible lace can be tricky. Carefully study paintings and surviving lace examples to “train your eye” for that lucky estate sale or thrift store find.
• 2.2 yards (2 m) 1–1½-inch (2.5–4-cm)-wide lace with at least one straight edge
• #50 silk thread
1750s–1770 coiffure franaise
1. Cut your lace into two pieces each 38 inches (96.5 cm) long, then find the center point of each piece and mark with a pin. On either side of the center point pin, mark where the gathering stitches will start.
2. Run a fine gathering stitch between these points. We will gather this portion up later on to make the turn at the end of the lappet.
3. Fold the lace in half, matching the straight edges. Pin, then finely whipstitch from the end all the way to the start of the gathering stitch.
4. Pull up the gathering thread nice and tight, then with the lace still folded, align the gathered edges and continue to whipstitch the edges together, catching each bump of the gathered portion.
5. Open the lappet out flat and gently tug the lace apart to “pop” the whipstitches open. Press, particularly the gathered “turn” at the end of the lappet.
6. Turn over the top edge of the lace by ¼ inch (6 mm) and baste, then turn again and finely hem stitch to finish the end.
7. Repeat steps 1 to 6 for the second lappet.
You can now use these lappets throughout your eighteenth-century costuming adventure, across many decades and as decoration in your hairstyles and on various cap designs.
