There are many people without whom it would have been impossible to write this book, and to whom I am immensely grateful.
My most obvious debt is to all those in West Africa who provided me with hospitality, contacts, stories and company. Many of them are mentioned in the book (some with names changed to protect their safety), but there are others – Osman Sankoh, Peter Aaby, Ben Lyon, Bertin, Lenny, Suzy, Tim, Missa, Fred, Mohammed – who probably have no inkling of how valuable their help was. It is thanks to them that despite the difficulties, I came away from this wonderful region knowing that I would soon – God willing - be back.
In the writing of the book, I am deeply beholden to Paul Godfrey, Mick Fealty, Jane Turnbull, Charlotte Weston, Colin Freeman, Fatosh Deniz, Jane Frewer, Alex Roberts, Steven Bonnick, Alex Mitchell, Idris Williams, Victoria Collis, James Helsby, Lol Middleton, Jane Morley, and Gemma and Magnus Willis for giving me their time and wisdom; to David Bloom for teaching me most of what I know about development; to Lynne Spencer for her inspirational enthusiasm (as well as her time and wisdom); and to David Steven for priceless advice and encouragement throughout.
Finally, my writing abilities are inadequate to express my gratitude to my father, who set me on the road; to my mother, who as ever could not have been more supportive and helpful; and most of all, of course, to Ebru, who still refuses to accept that this is her book too.