CITY GUIDE
Ireland’s largest city by far has all the credentials of a capital city: superb restaurants, world-class museums and more nightlife than you could ever use, from theatre to its 1000-plus pubs. Still the sine qua non of the city’s social life, these watering holes are the best place to take Dublin’s pulse.
The one-way system makes driving in Dublin tricky; the traffic can make it a test of patience. You can walk pretty much anywhere in the compact city centre.
Street parking is scarce and costly, except on Sundays, when you can park on single-yellow lines. Sheltered car parks (€5 per hour) are your best bet if your hotel doesn’t have a car park.
Temple Bar has the biggest concentration of restaurants, mostly mid-priced and often bland; the best options are on the streets on either side of Grafton St. Top-end spots are around Merrion Sq and Fitzwilliam Sq.
Base yourself in a suburb immediately south of the city centre, such as Ballsbridge, Donnybrook or Ranelagh, to experience the best of the city’s B&B culture. The little shops and boutiques immediately west of Grafton St are the best for shopping.
Dublin Tourism (www.visitdublin.com) Sights, accommodation bookings, discounts.
Entertainment.ie (www.entertainment.ie) Comprehensive listings of events and gigs.
Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/ireland/dublin) Travel tips, accommodation and a travellers’ forum.
Ireland’s most famous university is also Dublin’s most atmospheric bit of city-centre real estate, as well as home to the Book of Kells.
The National Museum of Ireland is where you’ll find the country’s most complete collection of medieval gold work, Celtic design and iconic treasures dating back 2500 years.
From classic plays to experimental new works, the city’s theatres have something for everyone.
The Georgian gems of St Stephen’s Green and Merrion Sq are the best spots to catch a bit of urban R & R.
The tour of Kilmainham Gaol is a hard-hitting exploration of the country’s troubled past.
Opened by Dr David Livingstone, the Natural History Museum, aka the ‘dead zoo’, has preserved its 19th-century spirit – as well as some two million stuffed animals.
There’s nowhere better to sample a pint of Guinness – the ‘black stuff’ or ‘liquid gold’ – than in one of the city’s many traditional pubs.
Ireland’s most bohemian burg has long celebrated difference, which accounts for its vibrant arts scene, easygoing pace and outstanding nightlife. Old-fashioned pubs with traditional sessions, theatres hosting experimental works, designated music venues in thrall to the heartfelt outpourings of the singer-songwriter… It’s just another night in Galway.
Traffic in and out of the city centre is a major issue during peak hours. The one-way system and network of pedestrianised streets can make getting around a little tricky.
Parking throughout Galway’s streets is metered. There are several multistorey and pay-and-display car parks around town.
Seafood is Galway’s speciality, be it fish and chips, ocean-fresh chowder or salmon cooked to perfection. Galway Bay oysters star on many menus. Pedestrianised Quay St is lined with restaurants aimed at the tourist throngs.
Base yourself in the city centre, so that you can take full advantage of the city’s tightly packed attractions. The west side, on the far side of the River Corrib, is where you’ll find the best concentration of eateries, classic pubs and music venues.
Discover Ireland (www.discoverireland.ie) Sights, accommodation bookings, discounts.
Galway Pub Guide (www.galwaycitypubguide.com) Comprehensive guide to the heaving scene.
Galway Tourism (www.galwaytourism.ie) Local tourist information.
Vibrant, confident and fascinating – not words that immediately jump to mind when imagining Belfast. But Northern Ireland’s largest city has worked hard to get rid of its reputation as a violence-scarred protagonist of the news, and now offers great museums, fine dining and a wealth of shopping to go with its rich history.
Belfast is easy enough to drive in, with a good road network and signposting delivering you to where you want to go.
For on-street parking between 8am and 6pm Monday to Saturday, you’ll need to buy a ticket from a machine. For longer periods, head for one of the many multistorey car parks that are dotted around the city centre.
In the evening, the liveliest part of the city centre stretches south of Donegall Sq to Shaftesbury Sq. During the day, many pubs, cafes and restaurants do a roaring trade. South Belfast is also where you’ll find some terrific restaurants.
Most of Belfast’s budget and midrange accommodation is south of the centre, in the university district around Botanic Ave, University Rd and Malone Rd. This area is also crammed with good-value restaurants and pubs, and is mostly within a 20-minute walk of City Hall.
Belfast City Council (www.belfastcity.gov.uk/events) Information on a wide range of organised events.
Belfast Music (www.belfastmusic.org) Online gig listings.
Belfast Welcome Centre (www.gotobelfast.com) Sights, accommodation bookings, discounts.
Great Belfast Food (www.greatbelfastfood.com) Stay up to date with Belfast’s foodie scene.
Ireland’s second city is second only in size; in every other respect it considers itself equal to Dublin (or even better). Great restaurants, top-class galleries and a vibrant pub scene lend credence to its claim, while the people are as friendly and welcoming as you’ll find anywhere.
Cork’s compact centre and easy-to-follow one-way system makes driving a relatively hassle-free experience.
Streetside parking requires scratch-card parking discs (€2 per hour), obtained from the tourist office and some newsagencies. There are several signposted car parks around the central area, with charges of €2 per hour and €12 overnight.
The narrow pedestrianised streets north of St Patrick’s St are packed with cafes and restaurants, and the place hops day and night. The English Market is the place for great produce and outstanding daytime eats.
Base yourself in town, as close to St Patrick’s St and the South Mall as possible. Once you’ve exhausted the warren of streets between these two locations, venture west across the Lee and wander up to Shandon, where Corkonians regularly take refuge from the city below.
People’s Republic of Cork (www.peoplesrepublicofcork.com) Indie guide to what’s on in Cork.
WhazOn? (www.whazon.com) Comprehensive entertainment listings.
Wander up through Shandon and explore the galleries, antique shops and cafes of the city’s prettiest neighbourhood, perched on a hill on the northern side of town.
The Crawford Municipal Art Gallery is small, but it’s packed with great art by top Irish names like Jack B Yeats, Nathaniel Hone, Sir John Lavery and Mainie Jellett.
Cork’s foodie scene is made famous by its collection of terrific restaurants, but don’t forget the splendid Victorian English Market.
Atmospheric old pubs, buzzing music venues and a well-respected theatre scene make for a memorable night out.