WHEAT

Gluten helped wheat rise to the top of the crops. Bread made from other grains tended to be on the stodgy side, while bread from wheat rose because its gluten proteins trapped the bubbles of carbon dioxide produced by the baker’s yeast and caused the dough to rise. Wheat was prized and bread became the staff of life – no food was more basic, more essential or more universal. But wheat is versatile and has provided our table with numerous traditional staples, including pasta, noodles, fregola and couscous of all kinds.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

We’re not going to confuse you with the ancient versus modern talk. Look for wholegrain when it comes to wheat products. There’s quite a range, from wheat kernels (berries) including spelt, Kamut and farro; freekeh (roasted green immature wheat); and cracked wheat and burghul (bulgur) available in a variety of grades of fineness, to the traditional staples (preferably wholegrain or wholemeal) made from wheat flour – bread, pasta, noodles and couscous. White bread and pasta are fine but don’t make them the default setting. Check use-by or best-before dates.

HOW TO STORE IT

Store grains and staples in a cool dry place in a resealable or airtight container. Bread is best kept in the refrigerator.

WHAT’S IN IT?

Half a cup (about 130 g/4½ oz) of prepared bulgur has about 525 kilojoules (125 calories), 4 g protein, 0.5 g fat, 23 g carbs (0 g sugars, 23 g starches), 6 g fibre, 13 mg sodium, 64 mg potassium, and a low GI (47) and moderate GL (11).

WHAT ELSE?

We are fans of quick-cooking burghul. Made from whole wheat grains that have been hulled and steamed before grinding to crack the grain, it’s ideal for tabbouleh, or adding to pilafs, burgers (meaty and veggie), stuffings, stews, salads and soups.

HERO RECIPES

Burghul and red lentil soup with sizzling mint and chilli (here )

Spaghetti with green tomatoes and fresh herbs (here )

Ribbon pasta with broad beans and pancetta (here )

Fregola and blood orange salad with fennel (here )

Jerusalem artichokes with farro, spinach and oyster mushrooms (here )

Farro with roasted winter vegetables, prunes and walnuts (here )

Farro and green lentils with cherry tomatoes and marinated feta (here )

Lamb, feta and burghul meatballs (here )

Roasted beetroot purée and burghul with mixed fresh herbs (here )