SAN JOSÉ
San José at a glance…
It’s true that Chepe – as San José is affectionately known – doesn’t make a great first impression, with its unremarkable concrete structures and honking traffic, but dig deeper and you’ll discover the city’s charms. Poke around historic neighborhoods, where colonial mansions have been converted into contemporary art galleries, restaurants and boutique hotels. Stroll with shoppers at the farmers market, join the Sunday crowds in Parque La Sabana, dance the night away, or visit the museums of gold, jade, art and natural history. Then you’ll begin to understand the multidimensional appeal of Costa Rica’s largest city and cultural capital.
In this Chapter
One Day in San José
Peek inside the city’s most beautiful building, the 19th-century Teatro Nacional map Google map, then head into the nearby Museo de Oro Precolombino y Numismática to peruse its trove of pre-Columbian gold treasures. Lunch on the terrace of Kalú Café & Food Shop or among the vertical gardens of Al Mercat. Afterwards, browse the shops of historic Barrio Amón. End your afternoon sampling local microbrews at Stiefel or sipping cocktails at Café de los Deseos.
Two Days in San José
Start your second day at the Museo Nacional de Costa Rica, then cross Plaza de la Democracia to the newly expanded Museo de Jade. After a stroll through the neighboring Mercado Artesanal for handicrafts, head to the Mercado Central to shop for Costa Rican coffee and cigars. In the evening, grab dinner at Park Café, then venture to Los Yoses and San Pedro for a rollicking nightlife scene.
Arriving in San José
International flights arrive at Aeropuerto Internacional Juan Santamaría (fly2sanjose.com) in nearby Alajuela.
An official taxi to downtown San José should cost around US$30, as measured on the meter. Reserve a pickup with Taxi Aeropuerto (%2221-6865).
Interbus (www.interbusonline.com; %4100-0888; US$15/7 per adult/child under 12) runs shuttles in both directions between the airport and San José hotels.
Where to Stay
Accommodations in San José run the gamut from simple but homey hostels to luxurious boutique retreats. If you’re flying into or out of Costa Rica from here, it may be more convenient to stay in Alajuela, as the town is minutes from the international airport.
For information on what each neighborhood has to offer, see the table on Click here.
TOP EXPERIENCE
Plaza de la Cultura
This architecturally unremarkable concrete plaza in the heart of downtown is usually packed with locals slurping ice-cream cones and observing street life: juggling clowns, itinerant vendors and cruising teenagers.
Great For…
y Don’t Miss
The Teatro Nacional’s most famous painting, Alegoría al café y el banano.
8 Need to Know
map; Avs Central & 2 btwn Calles 3 & 5
5 Take a Break
Enjoy an espresso at the Teatro Nacional’s atmospheric Alma de Café.
o Top Tip
Tours are offered every hour on the hour in Spanish and English.
Teatro Nacional
On the southern side of the Plaza de la Cultura resides the Teatro Nacional map Google map (National Theater; %2010-1110; www.teatronacional.go.cr; Av 2 btwn Calles 3 & 5; US$10; h9am-7pm), San José’s most revered building. Constructed in 1897, it features a columned neoclassical facade that is flanked by statues of Beethoven and famous 17th-century Spanish dramatist Calderón de la Barca. The lavish marble lobby and auditorium are lined with paintings depicting various facets of 19th-century life. The hourly tours here are fantastic, and if you’re looking to rest your feet, there’s also an excellent on-site cafe.
The theater’s most famous painting is Alegoría al café y el banano, an idyllic canvas showing coffee and banana harvests. The painting was produced in Italy and shipped to Costa Rica for installation in the theater, and the image was reproduced on the old ₡5 note (now out of circulation). It seems clear that the painter never witnessed a banana harvest because of the way the man in the center is awkwardly grasping a bunch (actual banana workers hoist the stems onto their shoulders).
Tours
On this fascinating tour (map; %2010-1143; www.teatronacional.go.cr/Visitenos/turismo; Av 2 btwn Calles 3 & 5; tours US$10; h9am-5pm), guests are regaled with stories of the art, architecture and people behind Costa Rica’s crown jewel, the national theater. The best part is a peek into otherwise off-limits areas, such as the Smoking Room, which feature famous paintings, lavish antique furnishings and ornate gold trim.
Performances
Costa Rica’s most important theater stages plays, dance, opera, symphony, Latin American music and other major events. The main season runs from March to November, but there are performances throughout the year.
Museo de Oro Precolombino y Numismática
The three-in-one Museo de Oro Precolombino y Numismática map Google map (%2243-4202; www.museosdelbancocentral.org; Plaza de la Cultura, Avs Central & 2 btwn Calles 3 & 5; adult/student/child US$11/8/free; h9:15am-5pm) houses an extensive collection of Costa Rica’s most priceless pieces of pre-Columbian gold and other artifacts, including historical currency and some contemporary regional art. The museum, located underneath the Plaza de la Cultura, is owned by the Banco Central and its architecture brings to mind all the warmth and comfort of a bank vault. Security is tight; visitors must leave bags at the door.
TOP EXPERIENCE
Plaza de la Democracia
Between the national museum and the Museo de Jade is the stark Plaza de la Democracia, which was constructed by President Oscar Arias in 1989 to commemorate 100 years of Costa Rican democracy.
Great For…
y Don’t Miss
Mural by César Valverde Vega in the Museo de Jade.
8 Need to Know
map; Avs Central & 2 btwn Calles 13 & 15
5 Take a Break
Touristy Nuestra Tierra is a fine spot for lunch and sangria after a visit to the nearby museums.
o Top Tip
The elevated terraces provide lovely views of the mountains surrounding San José (especially at sunset).
Museo de Jade
Reopened in its brand-new home in mid-2014, the Museo de Jade map Google map (%2521-6610; www.museodeljadeins.com; Plaza de la Democracia; adult/child US$15/5; h10am-5pm) houses the world’s largest collection of American jade (ha-day in Spanish). The ample new exhibition space (five floors offer six exhibits) allows the public greater access to the museum’s varied collection. There are nearly 7000 finely crafted, well-conserved pieces, from translucent jade carvings depicting fertility goddesses, shamans, frogs and snakes to incredible ceramics (some reflecting Maya influences), including a highly unusual ceramic head displaying a row of serrated teeth.
Museo Nacional de Costa Rica
Entered via a beautiful glassed-in atrium housing an exotic butterfly garden, the Museo Nacional de Costa Rica map Google map (%2257-1433; www.museocostarica.go.cr; Calle 17 btwn Avs Central & 2; adult/child US$8/4; h8:30am-4:30pm Tue-Sat, 9am-4:30pm Sun) provides a quick survey of Costa Rican history. Exhibits of pre-Columbian pieces from ongoing digs, as well as artifacts from the colony and the early republic, are all housed inside the old Bellavista Fortress, which served historically as the army headquarters and saw fierce fighting (hence the pockmarks) in the 1948 civil war.
It was here that President José Figueres Ferrer announced, in 1949, that he was abolishing the country’s military. Among the museum’s many notable pieces is the fountain pen that Figueres used to sign the 1949 constitution.
Don’t miss the period galleries in the northeast corner, which feature turn-of-the-20th-century furnishings and decor from when these rooms served as the private residences of the fort’s various commanders.
Mercado Artesanal
The Mercado Artesanal map Google map (Crafts Market; Plaza de la Democracia, Avs Central & 2 btwn Calles 13 & 15; h8:30am-5pm) is a touristy open-air market that sells everything from handcrafted jewelry and Bob Marley T-shirts to elaborate woodwork and Guatemalan sarongs.
Asamblea Legislativa
Costa Rica’s congress meets in the grand Asamblea Legislativa map Google map (Legislative Assembly;) in the center of San José.
1 Sights
7 Shopping
5 Eating
6 Drinking & Nightlife
3 Entertainment
1 SIGHTS
1 Central San José
Museo de Arte y Diseño Contemporáneo Museum
map Google map(MADC; %2257-7202; www.madc.cr; cnr Av 3 & Calle 15; US$3, Mon free; h9:30am-5pm Mon-Sat) Commonly referred to as MADC, the Contemporary Art & Design Museum is housed in the historic National Liquor Factory building, which dates from 1856. The largest and most important contemporary-art museum in the region, MADC is focused on the works of contemporary Costa Rican, Central American and South American artists, and occasionally features temporary exhibits devoted to interior design, fashion and graphic art.
Parque España Park
map Google map(Avs 3 & 7 btwn Calles 9 & 11) Surrounded by heavy traffic, Parque España may be small, but it becomes a riot of birdsong every day at sunset when the local avian population comes in to roost. In addition to being a good spot for a shady break, the park is home to an ornate statue of Christopher Columbus that was given to the people of Costa Rica in 2002 by his descendants, commemorating the quincentenary of the explorer’s landing in Puerto Limón.
Parque Morazán Park
map Google map(Avs 3 & 5 btwn Calles 5 & 9) To the southwest of the Parque España is Parque Morazán, named for Francisco Morazán, the 19th-century general who attempted to unite the Central American nations under a single flag. Once a notorious center of prostitution, the park is now beautifully illuminated in the evenings. At its center is the Templo de Música (Music Temple; map; Avs 3 & 5 btwn Calles 5 & 9), a concrete bandstand that serves as an unofficial symbol of San José.
Edificio Metálico Landmark
map Google map(cnr Av 5 & Calle 9) One of downtown San José’s most striking buildings, this century-old, two-story metal edifice on Parque España’s western edge was prefabricated in Belgium, then shipped piece by piece to San José. Today it functions as a school and local landmark.
Casa Amarilla Historic Building
map Google map(Av 7 btwn Calles 11 & 13) On Parque España’s northeast corner, this elegant colonial-style yellow mansion (closed to the public) houses the ministry of foreign affairs. The ceiba tree in front was planted by John F Kennedy during his 1963 visit to Costa Rica. If you walk around to the property’s northeast corner, you can see a graffiti-covered slab of the Berlin Wall standing in the rear garden.
TEOR/éTica Gallery
map Google map(%2221-1051; www.teoretica.org; cnr Calle 7 & Av 11; h9am-5pm Mon, Tue & Thu, to 6pm Wed, to noon Fri, 10am-4pm Sat) F This contemporary-art museum is the bricks-and-mortar gathering space for the TEOR/éTica Foundation, a nonprofit organization that supports Central American art and culture. Housed in a pair of vintage mansions across the street from one another, each of its elegant rooms exhibits cutting-edge works by established and emerging figures from Latin America and the world.
Parque Nacional Park
map Google map(Avs 1 & 3 btwn Calles 15 & 19) One of San José’s nicest green spaces, this shady spot lures in retirees to read newspapers and young couples to smooch coyly on concrete benches. At its center is the Monumento Nacional, a dramatic 1953 statue that depicts the Central American nations driving out American filibuster William Walker. The park is dotted with myriad monuments devoted to Latin American historical figures, including Cuban poet, essayist and revolutionary José Martí, Mexican independence figure Miguel Hidalgo and 18th-century Venezuelan humanist Andrés Bello.
Across the street, to the south, stands the Asamblea Legislativa, which also bears an important statue: this one a depiction of Juan Santamaría – the young man who helped kick the pesky Walker out of Costa Rica – in full flame-throwing action.
Mercado Central Market
map Google map(Avs Central & 1 btwn Calles 6 & 8; h6am-6pm Mon-Sat) Though josefinos mainly do their shopping at chain supermarkets, San José’s crowded indoor markets retain an old-world feel. This is the main market, lined with vendors hawking everything from spices and coffee beans to pura vida souvenir T-shirts made in China. It’s all super cheap, and likely made in China or Nicaragua.
In December Mercado Central is also open on Sundays.
1 La Sabana & Around
Parque Metropolitano La Sabana Park
map Google mapOnce the site of San José’s main airport, this 72-hectare green space at the west end of Paseo Colón is home to a museum (map; %2256-1281; www.musarco.go.cr; east entrance of Parque La Sabana; h9am-4pm Tue-Sun; h), a lagoon and various sporting facilities – most notably Costa Rica’s national soccer stadium (Click here). During the day, the park’s paths make a relaxing place for a stroll, a jog or a picnic.
T TOURS
Really Experience Community Tour
(Triángulo de la Solidaridad Slum Tour; %2297-7058; www.elninoylabolacr.org; per person US$12-25) Nonprofit Boy with a Ball wants to be clear: this is a slum tour. It may seem exploitative, but visiting El Triángulo, a squatter development of 2000 people north of San José, is anything but. Promising young residents lead the tours, introducing guests to neighbors and community entrepreneurs. No cameras are allowed, but the conversations make a lasting impression.
Kid Stuff in San José
If you’re going to be hanging out with kids in San José, it won’t be too hard to keep them busy.
Museo de Insectos (Insect Museum; %2511-5318; www.miucr.ucr.ac.cr; San Pedro; US$2; h8am-noon & 1-5pm Mon-Fri) Reputedly Central America’s largest insect museum, this place has an extensive collection assembled by the Facultad de Agronomía at the Universidad de Costa Rica. After viewing the specimens, visitors are invited to sample meal worms, scarabs and crickets. Curiously, the museum is housed in the basement of the music building (Facultad de Artes Musicales), a brutalist structure painted an incongruous shade of Barbie pink.
Museo de los Niños & Galería Nacional map Google map (%2258-4929; www.museocr.org; Calle 4, north of Av 9; adult/child US$4.20/3.80; h8am-4:30pm Tue-Fri, 9:30am-5pm Sat & Sun; h) If you were wondering how to get your young kids interested in art and science, this unusual museum is an excellent place to start. Housed in an old penitentiary built in 1909, it is part children’s museum and part art gallery. Small children will love the hands-on exhibits related to science, geography and natural history, while grown-ups will enjoy the unusual juxtaposition of contemporary art in abandoned prison cells.
Museo de Ciencias Naturales La Salle map Google map (%2232-1306; www.museolasalle.ed.cr; Sabana Sur; adult/child US$2/1.60; h8am-4pm Mon-Sat, 9am-5pm Sun; h) Ever wanted to see a spider-monkey skeleton or a herd of stuffed tapirs? This natural-history museum near Parque La Sabana’s southwest corner has an extensive collection of taxidermic animals and birds from Costa Rica and far beyond, alongside animal skeletons, minerals, preserved specimens and a vast new collection of butterflies.
Barrio Bird Walking Tours Walking Tour
(%6280-6169; www.toursanjosecostarica.com; tours from US$29) Knowledgeable and engaging guides show visitors San José’s famous and not-so-famous sights, providing history and insight on the city’s architecture, markets and urban art. Specialized tours also cater to foodies and LGBT enthusiasts.
ChepeCletas Tour
(%8849-8316, 2222-7548; www.chepecletas.com) This dynamic Tico-run company offers cultural walking tours and free cycling tours of San José (tips accepted), a foodie-oriented exploration of the Mercado Central, a bar-hopping tour focused on traditional downtown cantinas, and a guided visit to San José’s parks and green spaces. They also offer a nighttime biking tour once a week and group rides every Sunday morning.
Costa Rica Art Tour Tour
(%8359-5571, in USA 877-394-6113; www.costaricaarttour.com; per person US$150) This small outfit run by Molly Keeler conducts private day tours that offers an intimate look at artists in their studios, where you can view (and buy) the work of local painters, sculptors, printmakers, ceramicists and jewelers. Lunch and San José city hotel pickup is included in the price. Reserve at least a week in advance. Discounts are available for groups.
Carpe Chepe Tour
(%8326-6142; www.carpechepe.com; guided pub crawls US$20; h7pm Thu & Sat) For an insider’s look at Chepe’s nightlife, join one of these lively guided pub crawls on Thursday and Saturday evenings, led by an enthusiastic group of young locals. A free welcome shot is included at each of the four bars visited. Online bookings receive a 20% discount.
Swiss Travel Service Walking Tour
map Google map(%2282-4898; www.swisstravelcr.com) This long-standing agency offers a four-hour afternoon city tour of San José that hits all the key sites.
7 SHOPPING
Whether you’re looking for indigenous carvings, high-end furnishings or a stuffed sloth, San José has no shortage of shops, running the gamut from artsy boutiques to tourist traps stocked full of tropical everything. Haggling is not tolerated in stores (markets are the exception).
In touristy shops, keep watch for ‘authentic’ woodwork pieces that have ‘Made in Indonesia’ stamped on the bottom. For the country’s finest woodcrafts, it is absolutely worth the trip to Biesanz Woodworks.
Feria Verde de Aranjuez Market
map Google map(www.feriaverde.org; h7am-noon Sat) For a foodie-friendly cultural experience, don’t miss this fabulous Saturday farmers market, a weekly meeting place for San José’s artists and organic growers since 2010. You’ll find organic coffee, artisanal chocolate, tropical-fruit Popsicles, fresh produce, baked goods, leather, jewelry and more at the long rows of booths set up in the park at the north end of Barrio Aranjuez.
Galería Namu Handicrafts
map Google map(%2256-3412, in USA 800-616-4322; www.galerianamu.com; Av 7 btwn Calles 5 & 7; h9am-6:30pm Mon-Sat year-round, plus 1-4pm Sun Dec-Apr) This fair-trade gallery brings together artwork and cultural objects from a diverse population of regional ethnicities, including Boruca masks, finely woven Wounaan baskets, Guaymí dolls, Bribrí canoes, Chorotega ceramics, traditional Huetar reed mats, and contemporary urban and Afro-Caribbean crafts. It can also help arrange visits to remote indigenous territories in different parts of Costa Rica.
Kiosco SJO Handicrafts
map Google map(%2253-8426; www.kioscosjo.com; cnr Calle 31 & Av 5; hnoon-10pm Tue-Fri, 9am-10pm Sat, 9am-4pm Sun) With a focus on sustainable design by Latin American artisans, this sleek shop in Barrio Escalante stocks handmade jewelry, hand-tooled leather boots and bags, original photography, artisanal chocolates, fashion and contemporary home decor by established regional designers. It’s pricey, but rest assured that everything you find here will be of exceptional quality.
eÑe Handicrafts
map Google map(%2222-7681; laesquina13y7@gmail.com; cnr Av 7 & Calle 13; h10am-6:30pm Mon-Sat) This hip little design shop across from Casa Amarilla sells all manner of pieces crafted by Costa Rican designers and artists, including clothing, jewelry, handbags, picture frames, zines and works of graphic art.
5 EATING
From humble corner stands dishing out gut-filling casados (set meals) to contemporary bistros serving fusion everything, in cosmopolitan San José you will find the country’s best restaurant scene. Dedicated eaters should also check out the dining options in Los Yoses and San Pedro, as well as Escazú.
Top-end restaurants tend to get busy on weekend evenings; make a reservation.
5 Central San José
Café de los Deseos Cafe $
map Google map(%2222-0496; www.facebook.com/Cafedelosdeseos; Calle 15 btwn Avs 9 & 11; mains US$5-12; h2-10pm Tue-Sat; W) Abuzz with artsy young bohemians, this cozy, colorful Barrio Otoya cafe makes a romantic spot for drinks (from wine to cocktails to smoothies), bocas (handmade tortillas with Turrialba cheese, salads, teriyaki chicken, individual pizzas), and tempting desserts. Walls are hung with the work of local artists and rooms are adorned with hand-painted tables, beaded curtains and branches entwined with fairy lights.
La Ventanita Meraki Fast Food $
map Google map(%4034-2655; www.facebook.com/laventanitameraki; Av 3 & Calle 21, in front of the train station; mains US$5-8; hnoon-9pm Tue-Thu, to 2am Fri, 6pm-2am Sat) Ventanita means ‘little window’ in Spanish and Meraki means ‘artistry’ in Greek. Put them together and it’s an accurate moniker for this new fusion hole-in-the-wall, a to-go window in front of downtown’s train station that serves innovative street food. Expect elaborate spins on typical fare, along with sandwiches like pumpkin butter cheese madness, and Twinkie frito (fried Twinkie) for dessert.
Café Té Ría Cafe $
map Google map(%2222-8272; www.facebook.com/CafeTeRiaenAmon; cnr Av 7 & Calle 13; mains US$6, cakes US$1.50-3; h10:30am-7:30pm Mon-Fri, noon-7:30 Sat; Wv#) This petite, pet-friendly cafe in Barrio Amón is adorned with local art and replete with homey goodness. It’s a perfect place to work over a few cups of morning coffee, then stay for lunch. Specials often include a mouthwatering baked trout with capers and a fresh salad. Sandwiches and pastries are also a big hit, and vegetarians are well served.
Alma de Café Cafe $
map Google map(%2010-1119; www.almadecafe.net; Teatro Nacional; mains US$6-11; h9am-7pm Mon-Sat, to 6pm Sun) One of the most beautiful cafes in the city, this atmospheric spot evokes early-20th-century Vienna. In other words, it’s a perfect place to sip cappuccino, enjoy a crepe or quiche and take in the lovely ceiling frescoes and rotating art exhibitions. The elaborate coffee cocktails are an excellent midday indulgence.
Talentum Cafe $
map Google map(%2256-6346; www.galeriatalentum.com; Av 11 btwn Calles 3 & 3A; lunch specials US$8-10; h11am-7pm Mon & Tue, to 8pm Wed-Fri) This vibrant, quirky cultural space in a renovated mansion runs the gamut from cafe to art gallery. Sporting local artwork inside and out, with cozy seating on vintage couches and an outdoor deck, it’s a fun place for a midday break. The ever-changing cultural agenda includes book signings, films, anatomical drawing classes and occasional live music.
Café Miel Cafe $
map Google map(www.facebook.com/cafemielcostarica; Av 9 btwn Calle 11 & 13; coffee US$1-5, pastries US$2; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 2-6pm Sat) This tiny cafe opened to such wild success in 2014 that the owners opened another one right down the street. What’s their secret? In addition to adorable and homey interiors, there are artisanal products from the cafes’ chefs and bakers. The mushroom empanadas are divine, as is the locally sourced coffee.
Zero Army Cafe $
map Google map(%2248-2401; www.facebook.com/zeroarmycr; Calle 9 & Av 9; smoothies US$3-4; h6:30am-5:15pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat) Named for Costa Rica’s nonexistent army, this new smoothie and juice bar in the center of Barrio Amón serves fresh fruit drinks in reusable glass bottles. The smoothies are all-natural, highly refreshing and named for Costa Rican destinations. Breakfast wraps are highly recommended.
La Sorbetera de Lolo Mora Desserts $
map Google map(%2256-5000; Mercado Central; desserts US$2-5; h9:30am-5:45pm Mon-Sat) Head to the main market for dessert at this century-old local favorite that serves up fresh sorbet and cinnamon-laced frozen custard. Do as the locals do and order barquillos (cylindrical sugar cookies that are perfect for dipping).
Alma de Amón Latin American $
map Google map(%2222-3232; www.facebook.com/AlmadeAmon/; Calle 5 btwn Avs 9 & 11; small plates US$6-9; h11am-10pm Mon-Wed, to midnight Thu-Sat) With entrées from nearly a dozen Latin countries and considerable Caribbean influence, this new restaurant is raising the bar in Barrio Amón. Popular menu items include mofongo (a Puerto Rican dish with fried plantains) and coxinhas (Brazilian croquettes with chicken). The mixologist whips up spicy and delicious cocktails; El Chapulin has tequila, ginger beer, lime and sugar-cane syrup.
Café Mundo Italian $$
map Google map(%2222-6190; cnr Av 9 & Calle 15; mains US$8-36; h11am-10pm Mon-Wed, to 10:30pm Thu, 5pm-11:30 Sat; v) This longtime Italian cafe and expat favorite is set on a sprawling terrace in a vintage Barrio Otoya mansion. It’s a perfect spot to enjoy a glass of wine and good (if not earth-shattering) pizzas and pastas within sight of a splashing outdoor fountain. At lunchtime on weekdays, don’t miss the good-value plato del día (plate of the day; US$8).
Biesanz Woodworks
Located in the hills of Bello Horizonte in Escazú, the workshop of Biesanz Woodworks (%2289-4337; www.biesanz.com; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat) can be difficult to find, but the effort will be well worth it. This shop is one of the finest woodcrafting studios in the nation, run by celebrated artisan Barry Biesanz.
His bowls and other decorative containers are exquisite and take their inspiration from pre-Columbian techniques, in which the natural lines and forms of the wood determine the shape and size of the bowl. The pieces are expensive (from US$45 for a palm-size bowl), but they are unique – and so delicately crafted that they wouldn’t be out of place in a museum. Indeed, Biesanz pieces are part of the collections of the Queen and Prince of Spain, as well as five US Presidents. While Biesanz crafts boxes of all sorts, his specialty is nesting boxes (a set of three or four, which fit inside each other).
Behind Biesanz Woodworks, there is a small botanical garden, replete with medicinal plants, rare wood trees, and plenty of edibles. Labels along the paths encourage independent wandering.
Lubnan Lebanese $$
map Google map(%2257-6071; www.facebook.com/lubnancostarica; Paseo Colón btwn Calles 22 & 24; mains US$8-25; h11am-3pm & 6pm-midnight Tue-Fri, noon-4pm & 6pm-midnight Sat, 11am-5pm Sun; p) This atmospheric Lebanese place is a great date spot, with creamy hummus, flavorful tabbouleh and an array of succulent meats – some cooked, some deliciously raw. Waiters wear fezzes and a live belly-dancing performance goes down every Thursday at 8:30pm.
Nuestra Tierra Costa Rican $$
map Google map(%2222-2223, 2258-6500; cnr Av 2 & Calle 15; mains US$6-22; h6am-midnight; h) Touristy but fun, this bustling eatery maintains a calculatedly rustic atmosphere, with picnic-style tables, mounted bull heads and strings of metal cups dangling from the rafters. Cheery waiters deliver well-prepared if overpriced Tico food, from tasty pork tamales to wooden platters piled with heaping casados (set meals). A fine spot for lunch and sangria after a visit to the nearby museums.
La Esquina de Buenos Aires Argentine $$$
map Google map(%2223-1909; cnr Calle 11 & Av 4; mains US$15-29; h11:30am-3pm & 6-10:30pm Mon-Thu, 11:30-11pm Fri, 12:30pm-11pm Sat, noon-10pm Sun; v) White linens and the sound of old tango evoke the atmospheric bistros of San Telmo, as does the menu, featuring grilled Argentine cuts of steak, house-made empanadas and an extensive selection of fresh pastas in exquisite sauces. The excellent South American–centric wine list, attentive service and flickering candlelight make this an ideal place for a date. Reservations recommended.
La Sabana
1 Sights
3 Entertainment
5 La Sabana & Around
Park Café European $$$
map Google map(%2290-6324; parkcafecostarica.blogspot.com; tapas US$6-15; h5-9:15pm Tue-Sat) At this felicitous fusion of antique shop and French restaurant, Michelin-starred chef Richard Neat offers an exquisite dégustation menu featuring smaller sampling plates (Spanish tapas style) and a carefully curated wine list. The romantic, candlelit courtyard is eclectically decorated with Asian antiques imported by Neat’s partner, Louise French. It’s near Parque La Sabana’s northeast corner (100m north of Rostipollos restaurant).
Restaurante Grano de Oro Fusion $$$
map Google map(%2255-3322; www.hotelgranodeoro.com; Calle 30 btwn Avs 2 & 4; lunch mains US$15-29, dinner mains US$19-42; h7am-10pm) Known for its Costa Rican–fusion cuisine, this stately, flower-filled restaurant is one of San José’s top dining destinations. The menu is laced with unique specialties such as sea bass breaded with toasted macadamia nuts, and seared duck crowned with caramelized figs, and there’s an encyclopedic international wine list. For dessert, don’t miss the coffee cream mousse. Dinner reservations recommended.
5 Los Yoses, Barrio Escalante & San Pedro
Café Kracovia Cafe $
(%2253-9093; www.cafekracovia.com; snacks US$4-10, mains US$8-14; h10:30am-9pm Mon, to 11pm Tue-Sat; W) With several distinct spaces, from a low-lit, intimate downstairs to an outdoor garden courtyard, this hip cafe has something for everyone. Contemporary artwork and a distinct university vibe create an appealing ambiance for lunching on crepes, wraps, salads, daily specials and craft beer. It’s 500m north of the Fuente de la Hispanidad traffic circle, where San Pedro and Los Yoses converge.
Al Mercat Gastronomy $$
map Google map(%2221-0783; www.almercat.com; Barrio Escalante; US$13-25; hnoon-3pm Mon-Fri, 7:30pm-midnight Thu-Sat; v) This exquisite new Barrio Escalante restaurant serves whatever is fresh from the market. Family-style courses such as grilled avocado, and hummus with chickpeas and peach palm fruit, are fresh and flavorful. And although vegetarians are well served, meat eaters will appreciate the fine cuts of meat. The service here is impeccable, and the atmosphere is enlivened by vertical gardens.
Olio Mediterranean $$
map Google map(%2281-0541; www.facebook.com/Restaurante.olio; cnr Calle 33 & Av 3; tapas from US$7, dishes US$12-22; hnoon-midnight Mon-Fri, from 6pm Sat; v) This cozy, Mediterranean-flavored gastropub in a century-old brick building in Barrio Escalante serves a long list of tempting tapas, including divine stuffed mushrooms, goat-cheese croquettes, and house-made pastas. The enticing drinks list includes homemade sangria and a decent selection of beers and wine. It’s a romantic spot for a date, with imaginative, conversation-worthy quirks of decor and beautiful patrons.
Sofia Mediterráneo Mediterranean $$
map Google map(%2224-5050; www.facebook.com/SofiaMediterraneo; cnr Calle 33 & Av 1; mains US$8-22; h6pm-11pm Tue-Fri, noon-11pm Sat, noon-5pm & 6:30-9pm Sun; v) This Barrio Escalante gem serves a superb mix of authentic Mediterranean specialties, including house-made hummus, tortellini, grilled lamb and a rotating selection of daily specials, accompanied by sweet, delicate baklava for dessert. The restaurant doubles as a community cultural center where owner Mehmet Onuralp hosts occasional theme dinners featuring musicians, chefs and speakers from around the world.
Rávi Gastropub Pub Food $$
map Google map(%2253-3771; www.facebook.com/ravicostarica; cnr Calle 33 & Av 5; mains US$9-18; h3pm-midnight Tue-Sat) This cool corner pub in Barrio Escalante is awash in bright murals, with seating in funky red booths, intimate back rooms or at the convivial bar stools up front. A menu of bocas, sandwiches, pizzas and more is served with craft brew on tap and homemade tropical-fruit sodas served in cute little bell jars.
Mantras Vegetarian $$
map Google map(%2253-6715; www.facebook.com/mantrasveggiecafe; Calle 35 btwn Avs 11 & 13; mains US$8-10; h8:30am-5pm; v) Widely recognized as the best vegetarian restaurant in San José (if not all of Costa Rica), Mantras draws rave reviews from across the foodie spectrum for meatless main dishes, salads and desserts so delicious that it’s easy to forget you’re eating healthily. It’s in Barrio Escalante, and for Sunday brunch, the line often stretches out the door.
Lolo’s Pizza $$
map Google map(%2283-9627; pizzas US$14-24; h6pm-midnight Mon-Sat) Fans of bohemian chic will appreciate this quirky pizzeria, hidden in a mustard-yellow house (No 3396) along the railroad tracks north of Av Central in Barrio Escalante. The vibrantly colorful, low-lit interior, hung with an eclectic collection of plates and other knickknacks, creates an artsy, romantic setting for sangria and pizzas fired up in the bright-red oven out back.
Kalú Café & Food Shop International $$$
map Google map(%2253-8426, 2253-8367; www.kalu.co.cr; cnr Calle 31 & Av 5; mains US$15-21; hnoon-10pm Tue-Fri, 9am-10pm Sat, 9am-4pm Sun; v) Sharing a sleek space with Kiosco SJO in Barrio Escalante, chef Camille Ratton’s exceptional back-patio cafe serves a global fusion menu of soups, salads, sandwiches, pastas and unconventional delights such as the fish taco trio filled with mango-glazed salmon, red curry prawns and macadamia-crusted tuna. Don’t miss the mind-meltingly delicious passion-fruit pie.
6 DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE
Whatever your poison, San José has plenty of venues to keep you lubricated.
Stiefel Pub
map Google map(www.facebook.com/StiefelPub; h6pm-2am Mon-Sat) Two-dozen-plus Costa Rican microbrews on tap and an appealing setting in a historic building create a convivial buzz at this pub half a block from Plaza España. Grab a pint of Pelona or Maldita Vida, Malinche or Chichemel; better yet, order a flight of four miniature sampler glasses and try ’em all!
Costa Rica Craft Brewing Brewery
(%2249-0919; www.facebook.com/craftbeercostarica; Ciudad Colón; h9am-5pm Mon, to 11pm Tue & Wed, to midnight Thu, noon-5pm Fri, 1pm-midnight Sat, noon-6pm Sun) Just when everyone thought it would be Imperial and Pilsen forever, this artisanal brew pub paved the way for craft beer in Costa Rica. The brewery’s new location in Ciudad Colón offers facility tours and tastings of its fine products, which include staple ales like Libertas and Segua, along with more experimental drinks like barley wines and Russian Imperil stouts.
It’s out of town; ask locally for directions.
Hoxton Pub Pub
(%7168-1083; www.facebook.com/hoxtonstag; h9pm-4am Tue-Sat) Good cocktails, great music and a lively dance floor in a cool old Los Yoses mansion just east of Subaru. The place often holds theme nights and brings in good DJs on the weekend. Tuesday’s ladies night is the biggest party in town, with women paying no cover and drinking free until midnight. Hundreds show up to rage till dawn.
Wilk Brewery
map Google map(www.facebook.com/wilkcraftbeer; Calle 33 & Av 9; h4pm-1am Tue-Sat) This new pub in Barrio Escalante attracts a mixed crowd of Ticos and gringos who share an appreciation for craft brews and seriously delicious burgers (veggie included). The wide selection of craft beer includes all of the inventive concoctions of Costa Rica Craft Brewing, which is a partner in the pub.
Castro’s Club
map Google map(%2256-8789; cnr Av 13 & Calle 22; h6pm-3am Sun-Thu, 5pm-4:30am Fri & Sat) Chepe’s oldest dance club, this classic Latin American disco in Barrio México draws crowds of locals and tourists to its large dance floor with a dependable mix of salsa, cumbia and merengue.
Chubbs Sports Bar
map Google map(%2222-4622; 2nd fl, Calle 9 btwn Avs 1 & 3) Decidedly local, in the heart of the San José tourist belt, this humble little sports bar has reasonably priced drinks, tasty burgers, a stack of TVs displaying the game and a supersized mural of dogs playing poker. Awesome.
Pub Bar
(%2288-3062; www.facebook.com/thepubcr; Av 26 btwn Calles 128 & 130; h4pm-2am Sun-Fri, 1pm-2am Sat) This small, friendly expat pub has a list of more than two-dozen international beers, more than a dozen local brews and a selection of shots. Well-priced happy-hour drink specials keep things hopping, and a greasy bar menu is available to soak up the damage.
Club Vertigo Club
map Google map(%2257-8424; www.vertigocr.com; Paseo Colón btwn Calles 38 & 40; cover US$6-15; h10pm-dawn) Located on the ground floor of the nondescript Centro Colón office tower, the city’s premier club packs in Chepe’s beautiful people with a mix of house, trance and electronica. Downstairs is an 850-person-capacity sweat-box of a dance floor; upstairs is a chill-out lounge lined with red sofas. Dress to the nines and expect admission charges to skyrocket on guest-DJ nights.
Rapsodia Lounge
map Google map(%2248-1720; www.rapsodiacr.com; cnr Paseo Colón & Calle 40; h9:30pm-3:30am Fri, to 6am Sat) This hyper-chic, see-and-be-seen club, clad in white and gold, has an extensive list of cocktails and a menu of Mediterranean-inspired dishes and snacks. Guest DJs set the mood with a mix of electronica and other sounds every Friday and Saturday.
3 ENTERTAINMENT
Pick up La Nación on Thursday for listings (in Spanish) of the coming week’s attractions. The Tico Times ‘Weekend’ section (in English) has a calendar of theater, music and museum events. The free publication GAM Cultural (www.gamcultural.com) and the website San José Volando (www.sanjosevolando.com) are also helpful guides to nightlife and cultural events.
LGBT San José
The city is home to Central America’s most thriving gay and lesbian scene. As with other spots, admission charges vary depending on the night and location (from US$5 to US$10). Some clubs close on various nights of the week (usually Sunday to Tuesday) and others host women- or men-only nights; inquire ahead or check individual club websites for listings.
Many clubs are on the south side of town, which can get rough after dark. Take a taxi.
La Avispa map Google map (%2223-5343; www.laavispa.com; Calle 1 btwn Avs 8 & 10; h8pm-6am Thu-Sat, 5pm-6am Sun) A lesbian disco bar that has been in operation for more than three decades, La Avispa (The Wasp) has a bar, pool tables and a boisterous dance floor that’s highly recommended by travelers.
Bochinche map Google map (%2221-0500; cnr Calle 11 & Av 10; h8pm-5am Wed-Sat) A club that features everything from classic disco to electronica, as well as special themed nights. As this club is on the south side of town, it can get rough after dark.
Pucho’s Bar map Google map (%2256-1147; cnr Calle 11 & Av 8; h8pm-2am Mon-Sat) This gay male outpost is more low-rent (and significantly raunchier) than some; it features scantily clad go-go boys and over-the-top drag shows.
o Top 5 for Live Music
El Lobo Estepario Live Music
map Google map(%2256-3934; www.facebook.com/loboestepariocr; Av 2, corner opposite La Caja de ANDE; h4pm-12:45am Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat, closed Mon) This artsy dive attracts some of the top local talent for live music gigs.
Casino Club Colonial Casino
map Google map(%2258-2807; www.casinoclubcolonial.com; Av 1 btwn Calles 9 & 11; h24hr) San José’s most elegant casino.
8ctavo Rooftop Live Music
(%4055-0588; www.facebook.com/8voRooftop; Hotel Sheraton San José) See and be seen at this swanky rooftop lounge, where international DJs regularly perform. If you want to show up early and dine first, this place is also a hit for the city views, the eclectic menu and the spicy cocktails.
It’s right off Hwy 27 on the west side of Escazú.
El Sótano Live Music
map Google map(%2221-2302; www.facebook.com/sotanocr; cnr Calle 3 & Av 11; h7pm-2:30am Mon, noon-2:30am Tue-Sat, 2-6pm Sun) One of Chepe’s most atmospheric nightspots, Sótano is named for its cellar jazz club, where people crowd in for frequent performances including intimate Tuesday jam sessions. Upstairs, a cluster of elegant high-ceilinged rooms in the same mansion have been converted to a gallery space, stage, and dance floor where an eclectic mix of groups play live gigs.
Jazz Café Live Music
(%2253-8933; www.jazzcafecostarica.com; Av Central; cover US$5-10; h6pm-2am Mon-Sat) This intimate San Pedro venue presents a different band every night. Countless performers have taken to the stage here, including legendary Cuban bandleader Chucho Valdés and Colombian pop star Juanes. Its sister club in Escazú features a similar mix of local and international bands.
Estadio Nacional de Costa Rica Stadium
map Google map(Parque Metropolitano La Sabana) Costa Rica’s graceful, modernist 35,000-seat national soccer stadium, constructed with funding from the Chinese government and opened to the public in 2011, is the venue for international and national Division-1 fútbol (soccer) games. Its predecessor, dating to 1924 and located in the same spot in Parque Metropolitano La Sabana, hosted everyone from Pope John Paul II to soccer legend Pelé to Bruce Springsteen over its 84-year history.
Centro de Cine Cinema
map Google map(%2242-5200; www.centrodecine.go.cr; cnr Calle 11 & Av 9) This pink Victorian mansion houses the government-run film center and its vast archive of national and international flicks. Festivals, lectures and events are held here and in outside venues; check the site for current events.
(%2288-4740; Autopista Próspero Fernández, north side; cover US$5-10; h6pm-2am) Find a little aural satisfaction at the Jazz Café, the sister club of the San Pedro standard-bearer. The calendar features a mix of local and international bands. If you’re coming from San José, take the exit immediately after the tollbooth.
El Cuartel de la Boca del Monte Live Music
map Google map(%2221-0327; www.facebook.com/elcuartelcr; Av 1 btwn Calles 21 & 23; h11:30am-2pm Mon-Fri, 6pm-midnight daily) This atmospheric old Barrio La California bar has long drawn cheek-by-jowl crowds for live bands. Friday is a good night to visit, as is Monday, when women get free admission and the band cranks out a crazy mix of calypso, salsa, reggae and rock. It’s popular with university students, who indulge in flirting, drinking and various combinations thereof.
8 INFORMATION
EMERGENCY
Fire %118
Red Cross %128
Traffic Police %2222-9245, 2222-9330
GAY & LESBIAN TRAVELERS
In recent years attitudes toward LGBT locals and travelers have shifted towards acceptance. Gay pride parades take place regularly, and the city’s youth are leading the country’s tolerance movement. A good site for all things gay travel is www.costaricagaymap.com, which offers listings of bars, clubs and hotels that cater to the LGBT community.
8 GETTING THERE & AWAY
All international flights leave from Juan Santa-maría (SJO) airport outside Alajuela.
Aeropuerto Internacional Juan Santamaría Handles all international flights and NatureAir (%2299-6000, in USA 1-800-235-9272; www.natureair.com) domestic flights in its main terminal. Domestic flights on Sansa (map; %2290-4100; www.flysansa.com) depart from the Sansa terminal.
Aeropuerto Tobías Bolaños (%2232-2820; Pavas) In the San José suburb of Pavas; services private charter and a few national flights.
8 GETTING AROUND
Central San José frequently resembles a parking lot – narrow streets, heavy traffic and a complicated one-way system mean that it is often quicker to walk than to take the bus. The same applies to driving: if you rent a car, try to avoid downtown. If you’re in a real hurry to get somewhere that’s more than 1km away, take a taxi.
CAR
It is not advisable to rent a car just to drive around San José. The traffic is heavy, the streets are narrow and the meter-deep curbside gutters make parking nerve-wracking. In addition, break-ins are frequent, and leaving a car – even in a guarded lot – might result in a smashed window and stolen belongings.
If you are renting a car to travel throughout Costa Rica, there are more than 50 car-rental agencies – including many of the global brands – in and around San José. One excellent local option is Wild Rider (map; %2258-4604; www.wild-rider.com; Paseo Colón btwn Calles 30 & 32; h8am-6pm). They have a fleet of over 60 very reasonably priced 4WD vehicles (from US$380 per week in high season, including all mandatory insurance coverage). Reserve well in advance.
TAXI
Red taxis can be hailed on the street, day or night, or you can have your hotel call one for you. Make sure the maría (meter) is operating when you get in, or negotiate the fare up front. Short rides downtown cost from US$2 to US$4. There’s a 20% surcharge after 10pm that may not appear on the maría.
You can hire a taxi and a driver for half a day or longer if you want to do some touring around the area; for such trips, it is best to negotiate a flat fee in advance. Uber has also become a popular form of transport in the city.
Where to Stay
Reservations are recommended in the high season (December through April), in particular the two weeks around Christmas and Semana Santa (Holy Week, the week preceding Easter).
| Neighbourhood | Atmosphere |
| Central San José | The best hotels are east of Calle Central, many of which are housed in historic Victorian and art-deco mansions; close to sights, restaurants and nightlife; non-stop traffic jams and street noise. |
| La Sabana & Around | West of the city center; great variety of accommodations, from hostels to vintage B&Bs; pleasant setting around Parque Metropolitano La Sabana; some good dining venues, though budget options are limited. |
| Los Yoses, Barrio Escalante & San Pedro | Lively university area, replete with restaurants and nightlife; walking distance to city center; excellent choices for budget travelers. |
| Escazú | An affluent suburb with accommodations ranging from sleek boutique inns to homey B&Bs, mostly upscale; innovative dining scene; 20-minute drive or bus ride from city center; challenging to navigate. |