PENÍNSULA DE OSA
Península de Osa at a glance…
The steamy coastal jungles of the Península de Osa encompass some of the country’s least-explored land. Scarlet macaw appearances are the norm. Besides the easily spotted birds, monkeys, sloths and coatis roaming the region’s abundant parks and reserves, in Parque Nacional Corcovado there’s also the rare chance to spy tapir. Meanwhile, the rugged coasts captivate with abandoned wilderness beaches and world-class surf. This is the land for intrepid travelers yearning for something truly wild.
Two Days in Osa
Hire a guide for a day of hiking and wildlife-watching in Parque Nacional Corcovado or explore the Agujitas-Corcovado coastal trail along Bahía Drake. Spend your second day watching cetaceans with Divine Dolphin or scuba diving with Drake Divers, or just swimming and snorkeling at the local beaches.
Four Days in Osa
You’ll spend two days hiking across Parque Nacional Corcovado and tallying up the animal sightings. On day three, return to Jiménez for a celebratory breakfast at Restaurante Monka, then retreat to Playa Platanares for recovery. Your fourth day is free to spend waterfall rappelling with Psycho Tours or learning about the cultivation of chocolate at Finca Köbö.
Arriving in Osa
Getting to Osa demands one of two things: lots of patience or an airplane. Given the reasonable cost of flights, flying is a good option for exploring the peninsula, especially if your time is limited. If you choose to drive, you’ll need a 4WD and plenty of confidence: many roads in Osa are extremely poor and there are river crossings involved.
Where to Stay
Jiménez has the best range of accommodations in the area, many geared toward Corcovado-bound backpackers. Top-end options tend to be located on the outskirts of town. Some of the best wilderness lodges are found in Bahía Drake, as well as Cabo Matapalo and Carate. This area is off the grid, so some places do not have electricity around the clock or hot water; top-end lodges have their own generators. Dos Brazos is emerging as the next ecotourism hotspot, with remote lodges and get-away-from-it-all rural hostels and guesthouses.
TOP EXPERIENCE
Hiking in Corcovado
Corcovado’s amazing biodiversity as well as the park’s demanding, multiday hiking trails attract a stream of visitors who descend from Bahía Drake and Puerto Jiménez to experience a bona fide jungle adventure.
Great For…
8 Need to Know
Área de Conservación Osa (ACOSA; Osa Conservation Area Headquarters); %2735-5036; Corcovado park fee per person per day US$15; h8am-noon & 1-4pm Mon-Fri
y Don’t Miss
The chance to see a rare Baird’s tapir in its natural habitat near Sirena station.
Hiking Trails
There are three main trails in the park that are open to visitors, as well as shorter trails around the ranger stations. Trails are primitive and the hiking is hot, humid and insect-ridden, but the challenge of the trek and the interaction with wildlife at Corcovado are thrilling. Carry plenty of food, water and insect repellent.
The most popular route traverses the park from Los Patos to Sirena, then exits the park at La Leona (or vice versa). This allows hikers to begin and end their journey in or near Puerto Jiménez, offering easy access to La Leona and Los Patos.
A new El Tigre trail loop has been added; it starts in Dos Brazos and dips into the park but doesn’t join up with the rest of the trail network (you still have to pay the full park fee to hike it, though).
La Leona to Sirena
The largely flat 16km hike (five to seven hours) follows the shoreline through coastal forest and along deserted beaches. Take plenty of water, a hat and sunscreen. It involves one major river crossing at Río Claro, just south of Sirena, and there’s an excellent chance of seeing monkeys, tapirs and scarlet macaws en route. La Leona is an additional 3.5km to Carate. A new trail running parallel to this trail allows you to avoid the sizzling tramp along the beach.
Sirena to Los Patos
This trail goes 18km through the heart of Corcovado, passing through primary and secondary forest, and is relatively flat for the first 12km. After you wade through two river tributaries before reaching the Laguna Corcovado, the route undulates steeply for the remaining 6km. It’s less punishing to do this trek in the opposite direction.
Sendero El Tigre
Part of this new 8km loop trail passes through Parque Nacional Corcovado, so a guide is mandatory. It’s a fairly rugged trail, part of which passes through an ancient indigenous burial ground; be prepared to spend most of a day hiking. It’s doable as a day trip yet gives a good taste of the park.
Tour Guides
All visitors to Corcovado must be accompanied by an ICT-certified guide. Besides their intimate knowledge of the trails, local guides are amazingly informed about flora and fauna, including the best places to spot various species. Most guides also carry telescopes, allowing for up-close views of wildlife. Operators include the following:
Osa Wild map Google map (%8709-1083, 8376-1152, 2735-5848; www.osawildtravel.com; Rte 245, downtown Puerto Jiménez; tours from US$30, 1-day Corcovado tour US$85; h8:30am-noon & 2:30-7pm) S Osa Wild is a resource for travelers to connect with community-oriented initiatives that go to the heart of the real Osa through homestays, farm tours and sustainable cultural exchanges. They also offer kayaking tours and guided trips through Corcovado.
Osa Aventura (%8372-6135, 2735-5670; www.osaaventura.com) S Run by Mike Boston, a biologist with a real passion for nature, Osa Aventura aims to introduce travelers to the beauty of rainforest life and to raise awareness of the need for preservation.
Surcos Tours (%8603-2387, 2227-1484; www.surcostours.com) S A trio of excellent guides make Surcos the best company tours into Osa that focus on wildlife and birdwatching. Tours vary from day hikes in Corcovado and Matapalo to multiday experiences in Corcovado. Arrangements for tours are made through their website.
Carlos González (clgonzalez08@gmail.com; birdwatching tours from US$70) Highly recommended birdwatching guide with many years’ experience, who can tailor excursions to suit your needs. He also conducts excellent mangrove tours.
Corcovado Info Center (%2775-0916, 8846-4734; www.corcovadoinfocenter.com; whale-watching/Corcovado day tours US$110/90) Leading tours into Corcovado and Isla del Caño, all guides with this outfit are local, bilingual and ICT-certified. They’re at the beach end of the main road in Agujitas.
o Top Tip
Hiking is best in the dry season (December to April), but it’s still muddy.
5 Take a Break
Make reservations in advance to camp and eat at Sirena Ranger station (per person US$6).
TOP EXPERIENCE
Wildlife Watching
This bastion of biological diversity is home to half of Costa Rica’s species, including the largest population of scarlet macaws, as well as countless other endangered species.
Great For…
y Don’t Miss
The hard-to-spot silky anteater frequents the beachside forests between the Río Claro and Sirena station.
8 Need to Know
All visitors to Corcovado must be accompanied by an ICT-certified guide (see here).
5 Take a Break
Make arrangements in advance to camp and eat at Sirena Ranger Station (per person US$6).
o Top Tip
Corcovado is the only national park in Costa Rica that has all four of the country’s primate species.
The best wildlife-watching in Corcovado is around Sirena, but the coastal trails have two advantages: they are more open, and the constant crashing of waves covers the sound of noisy walkers. White-faced capuchin, red-tailed squirrel, collared peccary, white-nosed coati, tapir and northern tamandua are regularly seen on all of these trails.
Coastal Trails
Besides the park trail between Sirena and La Leona ranger stations, there is an additional coastal trail that runs 17km – mostly outside the park – from Bahía Drake to San Pedrillo station. These coastal trails produce an endless pageant of birds. Sightings of scarlet macaws are guaranteed, as the tropical almond trees lining the coast are a favorite food. The sections along the beach shelter mangrove black hawk by the dozens and numerous waterbird species.
Los Patos–Sirena Trail
The Los Patos–Sirena trail attracts lowland rainforest birds such as great curassow, chestnut-mandibled toucan, fiery-billed aracari and rufous piha. Encounters with mixed flocks are common.
All of the typical mammals get spotted here, but Los Patos is better for primates. Indeed, the Los Platos–Sirena trail is the best place to see the country’s most endangered monkey, the Central American squirrel monkey. It’s also excellent for other herbivores, particularly red brocket and both species of peccary.
Sirena Station
For wildlife-watchers frustrated at the difficulty of seeing rainforest mammals, a stay at Sirena ranger station is a must. Baird’s tapirs are practically assured – a statement that can be made at few other places in the world. This endangered and distant relative of the rhinoceros is frequently spotted grazing along the airstrip after dusk. Agouti and tayra are also common.
Jaguars are spotted extremely rarely, as their population in the Osa is suspected to be in the single digits. Ocelot represents your best chance for observing a cat, but again, don’t get your hopes up. At night look for kinkajou and crab-eating skunk (especially at the mouth of the Río Sirena).
You might see any or all of the four monkey species, especially the more common species – Spider monkey, mantled howler and white-faced capuchin.
The Río Sirena is a popular spot for the American crocodile, three-toed sloth and bull shark.
Puerto Jiménez
Sliced in half by the swampy, overgrown Quebrada Cacao, and flanked on one side by the emerald waters of the Golfo Dulce, the vaguely Wild West outpost of Puerto Jiménez is shared equally by local residents and wildlife. While walking through the dusty streets of Jiménez (as it’s known to locals), it’s not unusual to spot scarlet macaws roosting on the soccer field, or white-faced capuchins traversing the treetops adjacent to the main street.
On the edge of Parque Nacional Corcovado, Jiménez is the preferred jumping-off point for travelers heading to the famed Sirena ranger station, and a great place to organize an expedition, stock up on supplies, eat a hot meal and get a good night’s rest before hitting the trails.
Despite the region’s largest and most diverse offering of hotels, restaurants and other tourist services, this is very much a close-knit Tico community at its core.
Puerto Jiménez
5 Eating
1 SIGHTS
Playa Platanares Beach
map Google mapAbout 5km east of town, the long, secluded – and often deserted – Playa Platanares is excellent for swimming, sunning and recovering from too much adventure. The nearby mangroves of Río Platanares are a paradise for kayaking and birdwatching. Take the road that runs parallel to the airstrip.
Herrera Gardens & Conservation Project Gardens
map Google map(%2735-5267; US$7, 2hr guided tour US$40; h6am-5pm) S The Herrera Gardens & Conservation Project is a 250-acre reserve with beautiful botanical gardens. This innovative, long-term reforestation project offers an ecologically and economically sustainable alternative to cattle-grazing. Visitors can explore the 5km of garden trails or 15km of well-marked forest trails, where you’re likely to see capuchin monkeys and macaws. It’s located 400m east of the airstrip. Guided tours focus on birding, botany or even tree climbing. Jagua Arts & Craftssells map and arranges tours.
2 ACTIVITIES
Surfers head to Cabo Matapalo, which juts into the Pacific at the southernmost tip of the Península de Osa. The turn-off is about 17km south of Puerto Jiménez.
Playa Matapalo Surfing
There are three excellent right point breaks off this beach, not far from Encanta La Vida. If there’s a south or west swell this is the best time to hit the waves.
Playa Pan Dulce Surfing
Good for beginners and intermediate surfers, Pan Dulce gets some nice longboard waves most days. You can also go swimming here, but be careful of rip tides.
T TOURS
(Everyday Adventures; %8353-8619; www.psychotours.com; tours US$45-120) Witty, energetic naturalist Andy Pruter runs Psycho Tours, which offers high-adrenaline adventures in Cabo Matapalo. His signature tour is tree climbing (US$65 per person): scaling a 60m ficus tree, aptly named ‘Cathedral.’ Also popular – and definitely adrenaline inducing – is waterfall rappelling (US$95) down cascades ranging from 15m to 30m. The best one? The tree-climbing/waterfall combo tour (US$130).
For the tamer of heart, excellent three- to four-hour guided nature walks (US$55) tap into the extensive knowledge of Andy and his staff members.
Aventuras Tropicales Adventure Tour
map Google map(%2735-5195; www.aventurastropicales.com) Aventuras Tropicales is a professional, Tico-run operation that offers all sorts of active adventures. Some of its most popular excursions include kayaking tours of the mangroves, which cost $45 per person, and their ‘intense adventure’ day trip (US$90). Located 2km east on the road to Platanares.
Osa Corcovado Adventure Tour
map Google map(%8632-8150; www.soldeosa.com; Hwy 245; h8am-noon & 2-5pm) Newish operator offering anything from three-day Corcovado hikes to kayaking in the mangroves, sunset kayak dolphin-watching tours on the Golfo Dulce (US$45) and Matapalo day hikes.
7 SHOPPING
Jagua Arts & Crafts Arts, Crafts
map Google map(%2735-5267; h6:30am-5pm) A terrific, well-stocked crafts shop, featuring local art and jewelry, a wonderful collection of high-quality, colorful Boruca masks and black-and-ochre Guaitil pottery, as well as woven goods by the Emberá and Wounaan people. Kuna weavings technically belong across the border in Panama, but they make excellent gifts.
Artes de Osa Arts, Crafts
map Google map(%2735-5317; h7am-7pm) This locally run souvenir shop has interesting handmade carvings, furniture and other handicrafts, all made by Costa Rican artisans.
Caminos de Osa
Developed in response to the overcrowding of Parque Nacional Corcovado by a cooperation of private, public, academic and non-profit sectors, the Caminos de Osa (Osa Trails; www.caminosdeosa.com), when completed, will take visitors along three different routes bisecting the Osa Peninsula. Passing close to the park, they’ll allow visitors to commune with wildlife and introduce them to the rural communities that call Osa home.
The Oro trail will skirt Corcovado and pass through the former gold-mining villages of Rancho Quemado and Dos Brazos. Visitors will be able to participate in rural activities from gold-panning to horseriding, before finishing in Carate.
Passing through the Sierpe mangroves by boat, the Agua trail will deposit visitors at San Pedrillo ranger station, also bordering Corcovado, from where they’ll be able to hike into Bahía Drake and take the boat back to Sierpe.
Finally, the Selva trail will explore the southeastern part of the peninsula, connecting Dos Brazos to Puerto Jiménez and La Palma.
The trails were still in the making at the time of research, but the Caminos de Osa are actively working together with the communities of Dos Brazos, Rancho Quemado and La Palma, which visitors can easily visit now, with their rural tourism infrastructure developed and the communities eager to share their way of life with visitors.
5 EATING
Jardín Dulce French $
map Google map(mains US$6-8; h7am-9pm Tue-Sat; Wv) Just across from the soccer field, this delightful garden cafe that doubles as a florist is French-run and serves delicious homemade food. Half the dishes are vegetarian, but you’ll also find the likes of quiche lorraine, croque monsieur and Lebanese-style chicken. Whatever you do, don’t skip the homemade sweets: the fame of their truffles has spread far and wide.
Restaurante Monka Costa Rican $
map Google map(%2735-5051; mains US$5-6; h6am-10pm; Wv) Bright, airy and the best breakfast spot in town, Monka does excellent smoothies and extensive breakfast platters, from American-style, involving bacon and pancakes, to Mexican-style huevos rancheros. The rest of the day you can fill up on good, inexpensive casados (set meals). Several breakfast options and casados are vegetarian.
Los Delfines Costa Rican $
map Google map(%2735-5083; meals US$6-14; h10am-10pm) At the end of the beach road that passes the waterfront walk, Los Delfines is the perfect toes-in-the-sand spot for a late gallo pinto breakfast or a beer and delish ceviche (marinated seasfood) after sunning on the crescent of beach just beyond.
Soda Valeria Costa Rican $
map Google map(mains US$4-8; h10am-8pm Mon-Sat) Clean, cute and smack-dab in the middle of town, this soda is a dream – the kind of place you know is good because the local government workers all pile in at lunch. The heaping, fresh casados change daily and are delivered with fresh, homemade tortillas and sides of fresh fruit. Considerate, quick service is an extra boon.
Restaurant Carolina Costa Rican $
map Google map(%2735-5185; dishes US$3-8; h6am-10pm; W) This local favorite on the main drag still attracts its share of expats, nature guides, tourists and locals. Expect Tico standards, fresh-fruit drinks, extensive breakfasts, good coffee and cold beers that go down pretty easily on a hot day.
La Perla de Osa International $$
map Google map(%8829-5865; mains US$10-17; h11am-8:30pm; pWv) On the grounds of Iguana Lodge, this jungle-fringed restaurant-bar is locally (and justifiably) famous for its cocktails, accompanied by such delectable nibbles as pulled-pork tacos, grilled Asian-style tuna and shrimp plates. Skip the spicy gazpacho, though. Very popular with locals on weekends.
There are vegetarian soups, salads and meat-free pasta mains.
Restaurante Agua Dulce International $$
map Google map(www.aguadulceresort.com; Agua Dulce Beach Resort; mains from US$8; h7am-10pm; Wv) This breezy restaurant, on the premises of Agua Dulce Beach Resort on Playa Platanares, is a trusty spot for imaginative pasta dishes, grilled fish and ample breakfasts, although the service is positively languid. There are various vegetarian pasta dishes and salads.
Pizzamail.it Pizza $$
map Google map(pizzas US$10-20; h4-10:30pm; Wv) While this pizzeria’s name sounds more like a website, all doubts will be cast aside when a server at Pizzamail.it brings out the pie: a thin-crust, wood-fired piece of Italy in the middle of the jungle. From its small patio diners can watch squawking macaws in the trees over the soccer pitch. Several pizza options are meat-free. Bellissimo!
Il Giardino Italian $$
map Google map(%2735-5129; www.ilgiardinoitalianrestaurant.com; meals US$11-16; hnoon-10pm) While the possibly overextended menu touts steaks and sushi as offerings, Il Giardino shines when it sticks to Italian specialties – homemade pasta with smoked salmon, gnocchi and pizza. Our kingdom for a pepper grinder, though. Both service and cuisine can be somewhat inconsistent, but it has a reliably romantic, candle-lit waterfront ambience.
8 INFORMATION
Área de Conservación Osa (ACOSA; Osa Conservation Area Headquarters; %2735-5036; Corcovado park fee per person per day US$15; h8am-noon & 1-4pm Mon-Fri) Information about Parque Nacional Corcovado, Isla del Caño, Parque Nacional Marino Ballena and Golfito parks and reserves.
8 GETTING THERE & AWAY
The airstrip is to the east of town. NatureAir and Sansa have flights to/from San José (50 minutes, up to four daily); one-way flights are approximately US$130. NatureAir also does the puddle jumper to Golfito (10 minutes, daily).
Alfa Romeo Aero Taxi (www.alfaromeoair.com) has light aircraft (for three and five passengers) for charter flights to Golfito, Carate, Drake, Sirena, Palmar Sur, Quepos and Limón.
Puerto Jiménez is now connected to the rest of the country by a beautifully paved road. You can rent a vehicle from Solid Car Rental (%2735-5777; www.solidcarrental.com). If you’re driving to Carate or Matapalo, you’ll need a 4WD; be sure to fill up at the gas station in Jiménez.
8 GETTING AROUND
If you’re driving to Carate (the entrance to Corcovado), you’ll need a 4WD, even in the dry season, as there are several streams to ford, as well as river.
Assuming you don’t have valuables in sight, you can leave your car at the pulpería (per night US$5) or at any of the tented camps along the road (with prior arrangements), and hike to La Leona station (1½ hours).
The colectivo (US$9) departs Puerto Jiménez for Carate at 5:30am and 1:30pm, returning at 8:15am and 3:45pm. Note that it often fills up on its return trip to Puerto Jiménez, especially during the dry season. Arrive at least 30 minutes ahead of time or you might find yourself stranded. Alternatively, catch a taxi from Puerto Jiménez (US$90).
Bahía Drake
One of Costa Rica’s most isolated destinations, Bahía Drake (drah-kay) is a veritable Lost World, bordered by Parque Nacional Corcovado to the south. In the rainforest canopy, howlers greet the rising sun with their haunting bellows, while pairs of macaws soar between the treetops, filling the air with their cacophonous squawking. Offshore in the bay itself, pods of migrating dolphins flit through turquoise waters near the beautiful Isla del Caño marine reserve.
1 SIGHTS
Playa Cocalito Beach
Just west of Punta Agujitas, a short detour off the main trail leads to the picturesque Playa Cocalito, a secluded cove perfect for sunning, swimming and body surfing.
Playa Caletas Beach
This is one of the recommended spots for snorkeling. It is situated just in front of the Corcovado Adventures Tent Camp.
Playa San Josecito Beach
South of Río Claro, Playa San Josecito is the longest stretch of white-sand beach on this side of the Península de Osa. It is popular with swimmers, snorkelers and sunbathers, though you’ll only find it crowded at lunchtime since it’s the favorite post-snorkeling picnic spot for tour companies coming back from Isla del Caño. Watch out for capuchin monkeys!
Chocolate Farm
About 8km south of La Palma, Finca Köbö (%8398-7604; www.fincakobo.com; 3hr tour US$32; p) S is a chocolate-lover’s dream come true (in fact köbö means ‘dream’ in Ngöbere). The 20-hectare finca (farm) is dedicated to the organic cultivation of fruits and vegetables and – the product of choice – cacao. Tours in English give a comprehensive overview of the life cycle of cacao plants and the production of chocolate (with degustation!). More than half of the territory is dedicated to protecting and reforesting natural ecosystems.
2 ACTIVITIES
Agujitas–Corcovado Trail Hiking
This 17km public trail follows the coastline from Agujitas to the San Pedrillo ranger station for the entire spectacular stretch, and it’s excellent for wildlife-spotting (particularly early in the morning), beach-hopping and canoe tours with Río Claro Tours. Tour operators can drop you off by boat at a point of your choosing and you can walk back to Agujitas.
Snorkel & Scuba Drake Bay
Isla del Caño (admission US$10, diving charge US$4, incl in tour price) is one of Costa Rica’s top spots for diving, with attractions including intricate rock and coral formations and an amazing array of underwater life. Divers report that the schools of fish swimming overhead are often so dense that they block the sunlight from filtering down.
Bajo del Diablo (Devil’s Rock), one of the best dive sites in the bay, is an astonishing formation of submerged mountains that attracts an incredible variety of fish species, including jack, snapper, barracuda, puffer, parrotfish, moray eel and shark.
A two-tank dive runs from US$120 to US$150 depending on the site. Several upscale lodges have on-site dive centers, and there are several dive centers in Agujitas.
Operators include the following:
Drake Divers (%2775-1818; www.drakediverscr.com; h7am-7pm) This outfit specializes in diving at Isla del Caño, charging US$135/180 for two-/three-tank dives. Snorkelers are welcome to come along (US$80). The equipment is not the newest and the boat is not a purpose-built diving boat, but the divemasters are experienced.
Osa Divers (%8994-9309; www.osadivers.com) Competitively priced, recommended diving outfit whisking divers (and snorkelers) off for underwater adventures around Isla del Caño. Snorkeling tours cost US$80; two-/three-tank dives are US$120/160. Equipment could be newer, though, and the divemasters don’t have too much patience with novices.
Río Agujitas Kayaking
The idyllic Río Agujitas attracts a huge variety of birdlife and lots of reptiles. The river conveniently empties out into the bay, which is surrounded by hidden coves and sandy beaches ideal for exploring in a sea kayak, best done at high tide. Some accommodations have kayaks and canoes for rent; or else kayaks can be rented along Agujitas beach (around US$15 per hour).
T TOURS
Divine Dolphin Wildlife Watching
(www.divinedolphin.com; adult/under 11yr US$115/75) Sierra Goodman is the experienced original tour operator who introduced whale-watching to Drake Bay and she’s also deeply involved in conservation projects. Half-day tours depart at 8am and the on-board hydrophone lets you hear the whale and dolphin sounds.
Pacheco Tours Wildlife Watching
(%8906-2002; www.pachecotours.com) Very competent all-rounder organizing snork-eling tours to Isla del Caño, day trips to Corcovado, day-long tours combining jungle trekking with waterfall swimming (US$55), and whale-watching excursions.
Tracie the Bug Lady Wildlife Watching
(%8701-7356, 8701-7462; www.thenighttour.com; tours US$40; h7:30-10pm) Tracie the ‘Bug Lady’ has created quite a name for herself with this fascinating nighttime walk in the jungle that takes in bugs, reptiles and birds. Tracie is a walking encyclopedia on bug facts – one of her fields of research is the military use of insects! Her Tico naturalist-photographer husband Gian also leads the night tours; reserve in advance.
Río Claro Tours Canoeing
(per person US$15) A 20-minute hike toward Agujitas from Playa San Josecito, a hermit called Ricardo (‘Clavito’) lives by the Río Claro and runs hugely entertaining canoeing tours that start with a rope-swing plunge and continue to some waterfalls with refreshing plunge pools. Various tour operators can drop you off by boat, leaving you to walk back to Agujitas afterwards.
Original Canopy Tour Tour
(%8371-1598, 2291-4465; www.jinetesdeosa.com/canopy_tour.htm; US$35; h8am-4pm) At Hotel Jinetes de Osa, the Original Canopy Tour has nine platforms, six cables and one 20m observation deck from where you can get a new perspective on the rainforest. Tours take two to three hours.
5 EATING
There are several local restaurants in the heart of Agujitas, as well as two supermarkets. Some accommodations, particularly the more remote ones, offer full board.
Gringo Curt’s International $$
(%6198-5899; mains US$10; hnoon-9pm) Gringo Curt offers just three things: fish tacos, noodles tossed with vegetables (and sometimes garnished with catch-of-the-day) and superfresh fish steamed in a banana leaf (serves two). This one-man operation is hugely popular with visitors, and the portions are very generous. Curt’s a great source of local info, too, and runs nature tours along with Tico Esteban.
Drake’s Kitchen Costa Rican $
(%2775-1405; mains from US$7; hnoon-9pm; p) Excellent, small local restaurant along the main dirt road from Agujitas to the airstrip. The casados, such as catch-of-the-day with fried plantains and avocado, are clearly prepared by a capable chef, the fresh juices are stellar and the ambiance mellow.
Restaurante Mar y Bosque Costa Rican $
(%8313-1366; mains US$5-16; h5:30am-9pm; W) This restaurant up the hill in Agujitas has a spacious terrace from where it’s possible to catch a cool breeze and spot pairs of scarlet macaws passing overhead. Serving typical Tico cuisine and an array of desserts, it even has free wi-fi.
Margarita’s Marisquería Seafood $$
(%2775-1905; mains US$7-12; h11:30am-9:30pm) Right near the beach, this open-air eatery serves up mostly fishy delights, from garlic shrimp spaghetti and ceviche to generous helpings of freshly grilled fish, fish tacos and arroz con mariscos (seafood-fried rice). The food is great, but the service lives by Zen time and it’s best to double-check the bill.
8 GETTING THERE & AWAY
AIR
Departing from San José, NatureAir (www.natureair.com) and Sansa (www.flysansa.com) have daily flights to the Drake airstrip, which is 2km north of Agujitas. Prices vary according to season and availability, though you can expect to pay around US$105 one-way.
Alfa Romeo Aero Taxi (www.afaromeoair.com) offers charter flights connecting Drake to Puerto Jiménez (US$430), Carate (US$450) and Sirena (US$420). Flights are best booked at the airport in person; if there are several of you, one-way fares are typically less than US$100.
BOAT
Alternatively, Sansa has daily flights from San José to the Palmar airstrip. Prices vary according to season and availability, though you can expect to pay around US$108 to/from San José.
An exhilarating boat ride from nearby Sierpe is one of the true thrills of visiting the area. Boats travel along the river through the rainforest and the mangrove estuary. Captains then pilot boats through tidal currents and surf the river mouth into the ocean. All of the hotels offer boat transfers between Sierpe and Bahía Drake with prior arrangements. Most hotels in Drake have beach landings, so wear appropriate footwear.
If you have not made advance arrangements with your lodge for a pick-up, two colectivo boats depart daily from Sierpe at 11:30am and 4:30pm, and from Bahía Drake back to Sierpe at 7:15am (US$15) and 2:30pm (US$20).
8 GETTING AROUND
Once you reach Bahía Drake, the only want to get around is on foot or by boat.
Sierpe
This sleepy village on the Río Sierpe is the gateway to Bahía Drake, and if you’ve made a reservation with any of the jungle lodges further down the coast, you will be picked up here by boat. Mangrove cruises can also be arranged here.
1 SIGHTS
Sitio Arqueológico Finca 6 Archaeological Site
(%2100-6000; finca6@museocostarica.go.cr; 4km north of Sierpe; admission US$6; h8am-4pm Tue-Sun) This site offers the best opportunity to view the mysterious pre-Columbian spheres created by the Diquís civilization between 300 BC and 1500 AD, in their originally discovered locale, near culturally significant mounds 20m and 30m in diameter. Walking around you can really appreciate their size and perfect sphericity.
The on-site museum screens a terrific video on the spheres’ significance and purpose. The museum displays other fascinating artifacts discovered here, such as stone sculptures unique to the Diquís and metates (grain-grinding stones).
5 EATING
There are three restaurants in this tiny town, two of them by the waterfront.
Kokopelli International $
(%2788-1259; mains US$6-12; h9am-1pm Mon, 7am-9pm Tue-Sun; pW) The nicest of Sierpe’s three restaurants, Kokopelli serves large portions from a somewhat eclectic menu of ceviche, cheeseburgers, quesadillas and more. Sure, it’s aimed at the mangrove tour crowd, but the offerings are fresh and tasty and it’s the only place for miles around with an espresso machine. Check out the gift shop next door that sells Boruca masks.
Sir Francis Drake Slept Here
The bay is named for Sir Francis Drake himself, who visited this area in March 1579, during his circumnavigation in the Golden Hind. History has it that he stopped on the nearby Isla del Caño, but locals speculate that he probably landed on the continent as well. A monument at Punta Agujitas, located on the grounds of the Drake Bay Wilderness Resort, states as much.
8 INFORMATION
La Perla del Sur (%2788-1082, 2788-1071; info@perladelsur.net; h8am-5pm; W) This info center and open-air restaurant next to the boat dock is the hub of Sierpe – arrange your long-term parking (US$6 per night), book a tour and take advantage of the free wi-fi before catching your boat to Drake. The food is hit and miss, though.
8 GETTING THERE & AWAY
Scheduled flights and charters fly into Palmar Sur, 14km north of Sierpe. If you are heading to Bahía Drake, most upmarket lodges will arrange the boat transfer. Should things go awry or if you’re traveling independently, there’s no shortage of water taxis milling about – be prepared to negotiate a fair price. Regularly scheduled colectivo boats depart Sierpe for Drake at 11:30am (US$15) and 4:30pm (US$20).