The lakeside towns are peaceful places by night, favouring leisurely dinners, lakeside strolls and a liqueur at a local bar. But entertainment is never far away with the clubs of Brescia and Bergamo to the opera or Milan’s hip bars.
The Lombardy region has a strong musical tradition. Violinmaker Stradivarius and composer Monteverdi both came from Cremona, Donizetti was born and died in Bergamo, and Verdi composed La Traviata while staying on Lake Como. Today opera, concerts and music festivals take place in cities across the region and in castles, villas and other historic locations around the lakes.
The lakes and Lombard cities stage some of the finest events on the Italian cultural calendar. Events take place all year round and include classical music festivals, boat processions, food and wine fairs, fireworks over the lake and jazz extravaganzas.
The most prestigious festival of the lakes is Stresa’s Settimane Musicali (www.stresafestival.eu), running from mid-July through September with a programme of classical, jazz concerts with internationally renowned musicians, performed in churches, historical venues and even some wonderful outdoor spaces. Founded in 1961, it has expanded from Stresa to towns and villages all around Lake Maggiore. Events feature the festival’s own resident orchestra, as well as renowned international musicians.
Gardone Riviera on Lake Garda presents drama, opera and concerts in the evocative open-air amphitheatre of the Vittoriale degli Italiani in July and August (www.anfiteatrodelvittoriale.it) while Riva del Garda hosts a choral festival in March.
The tiny wine-producing region of Franciacorta south of Lake Iseo stages a sparkling wine and food festival in September, along with wine- and food-tasting events in the vineyards at weekends (www.stradadelfranciacorta.it). The Grape and Wine Festival at Bardolino (famed for its red wine) on Lake Garda is another cork-popping event held in the autumn. This is the time to buy quantities of wine very cheaply.
Festival of San Giovanni
One of the most ancient and magical lake festivals is that of San Giovanni (St John), celebrated at Isola Comacina, Lake Como, on the weekend closest to St John the Baptist’s Day (24 June). Mass is held in the church ruins, and thousands of bobbing boats are illuminated by candles and fireworks, creating spectacular views. For some of the best views, you can join a night cruise with onboard dinner and dancing. For those eager to immerse themselves fully in this timeless festival, seeking guidance from your accommodation is beneficial. Hotel staff, well-versed in the nuances of the event, can provide invaluable insights.
Classic-car rally in the lakes
Dreamstime
Milan apart, the region is not really renowned for discos and nightclubs. Garda is the liveliest of the lakes, particularly in the town of Desenzano del Garda, where bars, live music and nightclubs attract a younger crowd.
Como, although not exactly a hot spot, has some sociable late-opening bars along the Lungo Lario Trieste waterfront.
Bergamo offers upmarket wining and dining, classical concerts and plenty of bars, but for nightclubs, you need to head out of town.
Milan
Milan offers some of the most vibrant nightlife in Italy, with a huge range of classical concerts, theatre, live jazz and rock, pop concerts and scores of stylish aperitivo bars and nightclubs. It is also home to La Scala (www.teatroallascala.org), one of the world’s most prestigious opera houses (see page 99). If you want to attend a performance, it’s advisable (and often essential) to book well in advance. The coolest places to be and be seen move with the speed of light – the best option is to target the areas which have the most interesting scenes and take your pick. As well as iconically fashionable Brera and the buzzing Navigli canal area, have a look around the up-and-coming arty-hipster quarter, Isola the recently redesigned area around Porta Garibaldi station.
If you are staying on the south or east side of Lake Garda, try to take in an opera extravaganza in nearby Verona’s great Roman amphitheatre. The experience is an unforgettable one, and you don’t have to be an opera buff to enjoy it. The lavish, open-air performances take place from mid-June to the beginning of September, and the operas alternate, so that in one month you have a choice of three or four different performances. Book well in advance on www.arena.it.
Salò by night
Neil Buchan-Grant/Apa Publications
La Scala
Fotolia