Accommodation on the lakes is abundant, with grand dowager hotels on the waterfront, romantic retreats in the hills, farmhouses, city-centre designer hotels, and self-catering villas and apartments. Accommodation is not cheap, especially if you choose a lakeside location. Hotels are categorised from one to five stars and five-star deluxe; the stars refer to facilities rather than quality.
Seasonal variations
Many of the lake hotels are closed between October and March. In high season (which varies according to each hotel but includes Easter and can go all the way from May through to September), hotels with a restaurant may insist on half-board with stays of no less than three days. Provided you know the hotel has a decent restaurant, half- (or full) board can be very good value.
Agriturismi
Working farms, converted barns or other rural properties that rent out rooms or apartments are known as agriturismi. These are an excellent choice for exploring rural regions, and for active holidays such as walking, fishing and cycling. Some agriturismi offer breakfast and an evening meal based on home-grown produce. Details of properties are available on www.agriturist.it and www.agriturismo.net.
Price guide for a double room for one night with breakfast:
€€€€ = over €300
€€€ = €200–300
€€ = €100–200
€ = below €100
Tourist tax
The Tassa di Soggiorno, tourist tax varies from region to region and depends on the star rating of the hotel. The tax is levied on a maximum number of nights, which can be anything from four to ten (i.e. after the maximum number of nights, you no longer pay). Young children are usually excluded. If you have prepaid your hotel bill the tax will not have been included (or mentioned) – it is always charged when you check out at the hotel. B&Bs and residences are also included, usually at a slightly lower rate.
Lake Maggiore
Relais Villa Porta
Via A. Palazzi 1, Luino, http://relaisvillaporta.com
A late-18th-century villa, built on a hunting estate on the shores of Maggiore and set in a large park with romantic trails and a waterfall. It has prettily decorated guest rooms, a restaurant specialising in lake fish and a private beach. Two terraces make the most of the lake views. Three suites are also available. €€€€
The imposing Grand Hôtel des Borromées
Grand Hotel des Iles Borromées
Grand Hotel des Iles Borromées & Spa
Corso Umberto I, 67, Stresa, www.borromees.com
Stresa’s grande dame, this historic waterfront hotel faces the Borromean Islands. The belle époque decor is very lavish indeed, at times overwhelmingly so. Many of the luxury rooms have fabulous views of the lake and Alps. Facilities include palm-shaded gardens, indoor and outdoor swimming pools, a wonderful spa and fitness centre, tennis courts, a helipad and a landing stage for private boats. €€€€
Grand Hotel Majestic
Via Vittorio Veneto 32, Verbania, www.grandhotelmajestic.it
Another historic hotel, built in 1870, this great lady was favoured by artists from Debussy to Toscanini. Most rooms have panoramic views of the lake, while the wellness centre offers Ayurvedic and beauty treatments. There are lush gardens, a pool and a small sandy beach too. Apartments with access to hotel facilities also available. €€€€
Hotel Garni Millennium
Via Dogana Nuova 2, Locarno, www.millennium-hotel.ch
Once Locarno’s customs house, today this handsome building is a small hotel with simple rooms. The best of the twelve rooms has a lake view. Friendly, helpful staff. €€
Lido
Viale Libertà 11, Angera, www.hotellido.it
An engaging villa-hotel with a private beach and good fish restaurant . The guest rooms are peaceful and functional. €€
Pironi
Via Marconi 35, Cannobio, www.pironihotel.it
A gem of a hotel, housed in a converted medieval Franciscan monastery. Original features, such as frescoes, vaulted ceilings and medieval columns, have been retained, and guest rooms are all individually furnished with antiques. The old cellars have been transformed into an inviting wine bar. €€€
Il Porticciolo
Via Fortino 40, Laveno, www.ilporticciolo.com
A scenic four-star hotel on the lake with views of the Alps across the water. The rooms are comfortable, and there is a fine panoramic fish restaurant that serves lake fish, trout ravioli and scampi risotto. €€€
Il Sole di Ranco
Piazza Venezia 5, Ranco, www.ilsolediranco.it
Situated 4km (2.5 miles) north of Angera, this peaceful four-star villa-hotel has a graceful, restful style, lush grounds and lakeside views. Although the emphasis here is on the gourmet restaurant ( , the hotel has pleasant rooms, including luxury suites with lake views. A swimming pool, hammam and sauna overlooking the water add to the attractions of this long-established inn. €€
Grand Hôtel des Borromées reception desk
Grand Hotel des Iles Borromées
Villa Aminta
Via Sempione Nord 123, Stresa, www.villa-aminta.it
This ravishing little Art Nouveau hotel was built by an Italian admiral in 1918. Gourmet fare, lavish rooms , a spa and fitness centre and views overlooking the pool and lake are all on the menu. €€€€
Lake Orta
La Bussola
Via Panoramica 24, www.hotelbussolaorta.it
Set in an elevated position, this welcoming family-run hotel has stupendous views over the lake and across to the Isola San Giulio. The rooms are simple but charming, and the superior rooms have views of the lake. There is an outdoor swimming pool in the gardens and a panoramic terrace restaurant. On-site parking. €€
Hotel Aracoeli
Piazza Motta 34, www.ortainfo.com
This very central little hotel is minimalist and quirky. Each of the seven rooms is individually designed – with futons, waterfall showers with transparent walls and breathtaking views of the lake. Very good breakfasts. There is parking up the hill. €€
The view from Villa Aminta
Leonardo
Hotel Cortese
Via Due Riviere 24C, www.cortesehotel.it
Standing at the foot of Monte Mottarone, this 4-star hotel has spectacular views of the surrounding hills, woodland and the lake. Rooms are well equipped and of a good size. There is an open-air swimming pool. €€
Leon d’Oro
Piazza Motta, Orta San Giulio, www.albergoleondoro.it
A family-run hotel with a romantic setting on the waterfront, overlooking the island of San Giulio. The standard bedrooms are small but bright and airy, many with good views. for information on its restaurant. €
Piccolo Hotel Olina
Via Olina 40, www.piccolohotelolina.eu
Charming little hotel with fresh, modern rooms scattered around the historic centre. Rooms come without views of the lake but represent excellent value. Very good breakfast buffet. There is parking available up the hill. €€
Villa Crespi
Via G. Fava 18, Orta San Giulio, www.villacrespi.it
This grandiose Moorish folly, built by a 19th-century cotton merchant, has atmospheric public rooms as well as personalised bedrooms with original parquet floors, canopied beds and whirlpool baths. The cherry on the cake is the lovely three-Michelin-starred restaurant with sophisticated cuisine . €€€€
Villa Crespi
Shutterstock
Varese
Art Hotel
Via Bertini 3, Viale Aguggiari 26, www.arthotelvarese.it
Charmingly converted into a small hotel, this Biumo palazzo, at the foot of the Sacro Monte, within easy walking distance of the city centre, has a lovely garden, bar and sitting room. The rooms are simply but stylishly furnished with a light and understated contemporary touch (shower but no bath). Breakfast is excellent, and the small restaurant makes good use of local ingredients. Highly recommended. €€€
Bologna
Via B. Broggi 7, Varese; www.albergobologna.it
A welcoming three-star family-run hotel in the heart of the Old Town, with simple, spacious rooms. Attached is a fine trattoria with specialities from Emilia Romagna, including pasta, salami and antipasti. €
Hotel di Varese
Via Como 12, www.hoteldivarese.com
This hotel in Varese’s historic centre is set in a beautiful Liberty villa. Its 21 rooms are furnished, modern and functional. Breakfast is taken in the attractive breakfast room or in the garden. €€
Palace Grand Hotel Varese
Via L. Manara 11, Varese, www.varese.ipalazzihotels.com
An Art Nouveau palace set on Mont Campigli, with gorgeous views across the city, lake and hills. The public rooms have a ponderous charm, while suites are spacious. There is a haute-cuisine restaurant here, plus gardens, tennis courts, a swimming pool and gym. €€
Lake Como
Bellavista
Piazza Bonacossa 2, Brunate,
www.bellavistabrunate.com
This Art Nouveau boutique hotel in the hilltop village of Brunate lives up to its name and has stupendous views of Como and the Alps. As well as the beautiful views, it is a peaceful spot, with a panoramic restaurant, garden and wellness area; the funicular down to Como is just 50 metres (164ft) away. €€
A luxury suite at Villa Aminta
Leonardo
The spa at Villa Aminta
Leonardo
The outdoor pool at Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni
Shutterstock
Le Due Corti
Piazza Vittoria 12/13, Como, www.hotelduecorti.com
This former monastery and post house has been sensitively converted, despite the pool being placed in what were once the cloisters. The mood is one of quiet good taste, with warm fabrics and exposed beams matched by cosy rooms and a good restaurant. €€€
The view of Villa D’Este from the Mosaic Garden
Villa D’Este
Florence
Piazza Mazzini 46, Bellagio, www.hotelflorencebellagio.it
A charming traditional hotel that has been in the same family for over 160 years. Public rooms feature a mix of burnished wood panelling and contemporary furniture; bedrooms are warmly inviting and priced according to views. There is a good restaurant, a cocktail bar with a lakeside terrace and a small spa with whirlpool bath, sauna and hammam. €€€
Garden
Via Armando Diaz 30, Nobiallo di Menaggio (about 1.5km/1 mile north of Menaggio), www.hotelgarden-menaggio.com
A rarity – an inexpensive family-run B&B, in a small villa on the shore of Lake Como. It has twelve plain and simple rooms, a very pretty garden and a beach area for guests. €
Grand Hotel Menaggio
Via IV Novembre 77, Menaggio,
www.grandhotelmenaggio.com
A four-star lakeside hotel with panoramic views and well-equipped bedrooms. The service is good, and facilities include two restaurants, a terrace, bar, heated pool, gardens, private moorings for boats, water-skiing equipment and parking. €€€€
Villa D’Este Cardinal Suite
Villa D’Este
Grand Hotel Tremezzo
Via Regina 8, Tremezzo, www.grandhoteltremezzo.com
Close to Villa Carlotta on the western shore, this is one of the lake’s finest hotels. Built in 1910, it is furnished in Art Nouveau splendour, and offers sumptuous period rooms and terraced grounds dotted with modern sculptures. Facilities include three restaurants, a pizzeria and a bar, three swimming pools (one with a breath-taking view of the lake), a spa, yoga studio, private beach and marina. €€€€
Villa d’Este
Via Regina 40, Cernobbio, www.villadeste.com
The undisputed empress of the lake, this sumptuous 16th-century villa has been a hotel since 1873 and features palatial frescoed rooms studded with antiques. Facilities abound, with a luxury spa, lake-floating pool, indoor pool, golf, watersports, eight tennis courts, squash courts, a gym, sauna and Turkish bath and private boats. This has long been a retreat for the rich and famous, from J.F. Kennedy to Alfred Hitchcock to Madonna. €€€€
Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni
Via Roma 1, Bellagio, www.villaserbelloni.com
An utterly charming luxury hotel comparable with Villa d’Este, with a wealth of marble, crystal chandeliers and frescos. With two restaurants (one Michelin-starred), three bars, a state-of-the-art health spa, outdoor pool, private beach, watersports and tennis, it has everything you could want, plus superb lake views. €€€€
Locanda Sant’Anna
Via Per Schignano, Argegno (Como), www.locandasantanna.it
A truly wonderful rural retreat in the hills above Argegno, this family-run inn was once a retreat for Como clergy. There are eight comfortable rustic rooms, one suite and a recommended restaurant . €€
Bergamo
Gombit Hotel
Via Mario Lupo 6, www.gombithotel.com
Next to the medieval Torre del Gombito, this was the first designer hotel in the upper town. Modern and stylish, the rooms are individually decorated in a palette of restful neutrals, typically with exposed brick stonework or timbers and pastel-coloured furnishings. €€
Petronilla Hotel
Via San Lazzaro 4, www.petronillahotel.com
Behind a stately façade right in the heart of the city, the interior of this intimate boutique hotel surprises, its vibrant modern interior wittily pairing reproductions of famous works of art, cool designer furnishings and zesty pops of colour. Service is top-notch; prepare to be pampered. €€€
Villa D’Este Sundeck Bar
Villa D’Este
Lake Iseo
Albergo Bellavista
Siviano, Monte Isola, www.albergo-bellavista.it
Set on Monte Isola, this is a small, friendly, hotel with unfussy, tasteful modern rooms, terrace and views over the village. Free pick-up and taxi service on arrival and depature. €
Araba Fenice
Via Caproni 246, Località Pilzone d’Iseo, (2.8km/1.75 miles northeast of Iseo), www.arabafenicehotel.it
A good-value four-star hotel, with fabulous lake views and an excellent restaurant that serves Lombard cuisine and fish specialities, and decent breakfasts too. Nearly all the rooms have views, and there is a sunny terrace for meals or drinks in fine weather. €€
I Due Roccoli
Via Silvio Bonomelli Est, Località Invino di Sotto, Iseo, Polaveno www.idueroccoli.com
A delightful old villa hotel set in the hills 7km (4.5 miles) from Iseo. Low-key elegance is the keynote, with terracotta floors, exposed fireplaces and airy rooms. The noted restaurant features panoramic views, and its specialities include fresh lake produce, home-made salami and fine Franciacorta wines. €€
Relais Mirabella
Via Mirabella 34, Clusane, www.relaismirabella.it
In the hills above Clusane, this four-star converted country hotel enjoys panoramic views of Lake Iseo. Rooms are light and stylish. There is a good restaurant with a terrace, swimming pool and gardens. €€€
Riva Lago
Via Cadorna 7, Sulzano, www.rivalago.it
This elegant hotel with a pale blue classical façade enjoys an idyllic setting right on the lake, just a ferry hop away from the island of Monte Isola. Guest rooms are cream-coloured, light and airy, breakfasts are lavish affairs by the lakeside, the pool is lovely and the bar offers delicious Franciacorta sparkling wines by the glass. €€
Franciacorta
L’Albereta
Via Vittorio Emanuele II, Erbusco, www.albereta.it
Set in Franciacorta wine country, this striking ivy-covered villa among the vineyards is a favourite among gourmets and wine buffs. As well as a pool, tennis and spa centre, wine-tasting trips are available. €€€€
Azienda Agricola
Al Rocol, Via Provinciale 79, Ome, www.alrocol.com
Wine estate and farm with simple but tasteful bedrooms and apartments on a family-run estate producing award-winning Franciacorta wines, olive oil, honey and grappa. €
Cappuccini Convento
Via Cappuccini 54, Cologne Franciacorta, www.cappuccini.it
Set on a hilltop overlooking Franciacorta, this 16th-century former monastery is now a gracious inn, restaurant and small spa – although walking the lovely grounds is equally therapeutic. Wine-tasting, elegant restaurant (using fresh produce from the monastic orchards and vegetable gardens), old-world bedrooms and spa. €€€
L’Albereta vineyards
L’Albereta
Relais Franciacorta
Via Manzoni 29, Colombaro (Franciacorta), www.relaisfranciacorta.it
Popular 17th-century farm estate converted into elegant rural hotel. It’s a peaceful spot with large grounds and views towards Lake Iseo. The bedrooms are spacious, and there is a good restaurant. €€
Villa Gradoni
Frazione Villa, Monticelli Brusati (8km/5 miles from Iseo), www.villafranciacorta.it
A rural agriturismo run by the Bianchi family, who produce sparkling, red and white Franciacorta wines. The self-contained flats are roomy and comfortable, with exposed beams and stonework. €
Lake Garda
Ca’ del Baldo Agriturismo Relais
Via Cappuccini 32, Caprino Veronese, www.cadelbaldo.com
A delightful agriturismo with four apartments in restored farm buildings near the foot of Monte Baldo. With a heated pool, gym and the possibility of cycling, horse-riding and many other excursions as well as the lake nearby, this is an ideal place for a family holiday. €
L’Albereta spa
L’Albereta
Color Hotel
Via Santa Cristina 5, Bardolino, www.colorhotel.it
The fresh, modern design of this hotel makes interesting use of colour and light. The rooms are spacious with balconies, a variety of bars and lounges and there are several pools in the gorgeous gardens. E-bicycles, mountain bikes, canoes and SUPs for rent. €€€
Suite at L’Albereta
L’Albereta
Room at the Grand Hotel Fasano
Leading Hotels of the World
Duomo
Lungolago Zanardelli 63, Salò, www.hotelduomosalo.it
Named after the nearby cathedral, the hotel has a fine setting on Salò’s spacious waterfront, good-value guest rooms and an excellent restaurant – a magical place to sit on the lakeside terrace on a summer’s evening. €€
Gardesana
Piazza Calderini 5, Torri del Benaco, www.gardesana.eu
Given it has hosted the likes of Churchill, Laurence Olivier, Maria Callas and King Juan Carlos I of Spain, this traditional hotel is delightfully low-key, and the rooms are reasonably priced. The harbour side setting is enchanting. Well thought of restaurant with a gorgeous setting. €€
The lakeside restaurant at Villa Fiordaliso
Neil Buchan-Grant/Apa Publications
Grand Hotel Fasano
Corso Zanardelli, 190, GardoneRiviera, www.ghf.it
Once a hunting lodge, this opulent five-star hotel has lush grounds and old-world grandeur. Luxurious guest rooms vary in size and are priced accordingly. Along with gourmet cuisine, there is a stylish spa, indoor pool and private lakeside beach. €€€€
Laurin
Viale Landi 9, Salò, www.hotellaurinsalo.it
This sumptuous Art Nouveau villa, set in gorgeous lake-view grounds, served as the Ministry of Foreign Affairs during Mussolini’s puppet regime. A fine restaurant is the setting for high-class cuisine. Rooms are comfortable, stylish and understated. €€€
Locanda San Vigilio
Punta San Vigilio, www.locanda-sanvigilio.it
With one of the most beautiful settings on the lake, this tiny hotel has only seven rooms, four superior rooms and three suites each with a country house feel; specify if you want a lake view, as not all have balconies. It also has an excellent terrazza (terrace), where you can dine alfresco in a perfect romantic setting. For extra privacy, ask for the Limonaia, reached through Italy’s oldest lemon grove. Arrive by boat for added panache. Booking advised. €€€€
Breakfast terrace at Laurin
Neil Buchan-Grant/Apa Publications
Le Palme
Via Porto 36, Limone sul Garda, www.lepalmelimone.com
Set beside the ferry landing stage, this 17th-century waterfront hotel is in a quaint but touristy resort. It has a small pool, a rooftop sun terrace, a restaurant, bar and a panoramic whirlpool. €€
Hotel Querceto
Via Panoramica 113, www.hotelquerceto.com
Perched up on Monte Baldo above the town, with spectacular views, this cosy little mountain inn offers the best of all worlds, with 22 rooms, a terrace and pool, sauna and, bar and restaurant, its own glorious botanical gardens, and a transparent dome for forest bathing (or a cup of tea). It is just a short distance from the cable-car, you can swing down to town and the lake-shore. Closed Oct– beginning of Apr. €€
Villa Cortine Palace Hotel
Viale C. Gennari 2, Sirmione, www.palacehotelvillacortine.com
A romantic luxury hotel set in parkland a few minutes’ walk from the crowds of Sirmione’s historic centre. The Neoclassical villa has landscaped gardens with fountains, a pool, tennis courts, watersports, a private jetty with sun-loungers, boats to rent and a path to a beach restaurant. €€€€
Villa Fiordaliso
Corso Zanardelli 132, GardoneRiviera, www.villafiordaliso.it
An exclusive Art Nouveau villa hotel where Mussolini and his mistress Clara Petacci once stayed. It has a beautiful lakeside setting and a richly decorated interior, but the highlight is perhaps the restaurant with waterside terrace . €€€€
Milan
Antica Locanda Leonardo
Corso Magenta 78, www.anticalocandaleonardo.com
A stylishly restored, idiosyncratic hotel where chic minimalist rooms feature the occasional carefully chosen antique or splash of colour and a pretty inner courtyard and garden for breakfast or drinks. Popular with the fashion crowd. €€
Antica Locanda dei Mercanti
Via San Tomaso 8, www.locanda.it
This charming boutique hotel has the cosiness of an old-fashioned inn. Some rooms have rooftop views and terraces. €€€€
Bulgari Hotel
Via Privata Fratelli Gabba 7B, www.bulgarihotels.com
On the edge of the Botanical Gardens, the Bulgari Hotel has been designed with the precision and opulence that is the trademark of the name. Four figure room rates. €€€€
Gran Duca di York
Via Moneta, 1, www.ducadiyork.com
Close to the Duomo, this is a boutique hotel has lovely light rooms, some with stylishly planted private terraces. It is housed in a stylish 18th-century palazzo. €€€
The view from a suite at Hotel Laurin
Neil Buchan-Grant/Apa Publications