RISOTTO MILANESE WITH OXTAIL RAGÙ

This is the Mac Daddy of risottos. It’s a hearty, meaty dish that is guaranteed to fill you up and is the ultimate comfort food. Risotto was one of the first things I learnt to cook; I love trying out different flavour combinations. You can use this risotto technique to mix and match ingredients, according to what’s in season. For instance fresh-shelled broad beans would be great here when they’re in season.

PREPARATION TIME: 35 MINUTES

COOKING TIME: 3 HOURS 45 MINUTES

SERVES: 4–6

WHAT’S IN IT?

1.5 litres (52 fl oz/6 cups) chicken stock

½ teaspoon saffron threads

80 g (2¾ oz) unsalted butter

1 onion, finely chopped

400 g (14 oz/2 cups) carnaroli or arborio rice (see note)

125 ml (4 fl oz/½ cup) dry white wine

160 g (5½ oz/1 cup) fresh or frozen peas

35 g (1¼ oz/¼ cup) finely grated parmesan, plus extra shaved, to serve (see note)

¼ cup chervil sprigs, finely chopped, plus extra sprigs, to serve

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Oxtail ragù

80 ml (2½ fl oz/¹/₃ cup) olive oil

2 kg (4 lb 8 oz) oxtail pieces

5 French shallots, peeled

3 garlic cloves, bruised

1 celery stalk, coarsely chopped

1 large carrot, coarsely chopped

750 ml (26 fl oz/3 cups) good-quality beef stock

250 ml (9 fl oz/1 cup) red wine

6 thyme sprigs

2 bay leaves

5 whole cloves

5 whole black peppercorns

PUTTING IT ALL TOGETHER

1.   Preheat the oven to 160°C (315°F/Gas 2–3).

2.   To cook the oxtail, heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large heavy-based ovenproof saucepan over high heat. Add the oxtail and cook, turning frequently, for 3 minutes or until browned all over, then transfer to a plate. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil to the pan, then add the shallots, garlic, celery and carrot, and cook, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes or until the vegetables start to brown. Add the wine and simmer until reduced by three-quarters. Return the oxtail to the pan and add the stock. Bring to the boil, cover with a cartouche (a piece of baking paper folded to form a lid), then transfer to the oven and cook, turning the oxtail pieces occasionally, for 3 hours or until the meat falls easily off the bone.

3.   Using tongs, remove the oxtail from the braising liquid and transfer it to a bowl. Place the pan with the remaining braising liquid over high heat and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat to medium and simmer, skimming off any impurities that come to the surface with a spoon, until the liquid has reduced by three-quarters. Strain through a fine sieve into a heatproof bowl and discard the solids. When the meat is cool enough to handle, pull bite-sized pieces of meat from the bones using your hands. Discard the bones, then stir the meat into the reduced braising liquid.

4.   To make the risotto, place the stock and saffron in a large saucepan over high heat. Bring to the boil and remove from the heat. Heat the butter in a large heavy-based saucepan over medium–high heat. Add the onion and cook for 5 minutes or until soft.

5.   Add the rice and stir for 2–3 minutes or until the rice is well coated. Add the wine and simmer until reduced by two-thirds. Gradually add the stock, 1 cup at a time and stirring occasionally, or until all the stock is used and the rice is cooked; this will take about 30 minutes.

6.   Stir the peas, grated parmesan and chervil into the risotto and season to taste with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper. Heat the reserved oxtail meat and sauce over low heat until hot. Divide the risotto among bowls, top with the oxtail meat and drizzle over the reduced sauce. Scatter over some shaved parmesan and extra chervil sprigs to serve.

NOTES

* Carnaroli is my preferred rice for making risotto. It seems to hold its shape better than arborio and doesn’t overcook as easily.

* Use a combination of parmesan and pecorino for extra depth of flavour in this dish.