The domain of the artist
(Dove la pasta diventa un'arte)
F or me, filled pasta is more than just a great thing to eat. It’s something that I have seen people experience ecstasy over, something that they will travel across the globe to eat. Great filled pasta is about refinement, elegance and balance, it’s about changing people’s moods, it’s about happiness, it’s about history and culture, and it’s where technique is most important in Italian cooking. It’s about food that can and should be art.
Whether it’s tortellini, ravioli, mezzelune or any other filled pasta, it’s always an exciting process as you transform ingredients into these little works of art. I find that there is usually a great sense of anticipation with filled pasta, more than with other types of pasta, as there is always a degree of uncertainty about what will be contained inside these wonderful little parcels, or how they will actually taste once they are cooked and sauced.
To make superb filled pasta is not easy, but it’s definitely worth the effort. Firstly, there is the dough: a science and an art unto itself. Much of the challenge with pasta dough is finding the right thickness for any particular type of filled pasta. Too thick, and the pasta tastes and feels like overcooked dumplings. Too thin, and everything falls apart. Then there is the filling, the quintessential ingredient. It is the most anticipated part of the eating experience and the core of the flavour experience. Then, of course, there is the environment in which you make the pasta. The humidity level, heat and any flow of air in the kitchen can all be very important, more so than most people would imagine. Next you have to store the pasta correctly. This depends on how far in advance you are planning to make the filled pasta, what you are making the pasta with, and the moisture content of the filling, which can be a defining and often frustrating component. Lastly, you have to cook and sauce the filled pasta properly. Each part of the process is important.
The following recipes give detailed steps for each of the filled pastas. When making filled pasta at home, it is fun to get a group of people together to help with the process. It is much less work and everyone has a great time. It’s worth the effort!
