Zia Maria’s pork rib spaghetti

(Spaghetti della zia Maria con costate di maiale)

Serves 6

My aunties zia Maria and zia Lidia are the best cooks in the world and I have included recipes in this book from both of them. Sadly, I couldn't include one from my zia Giovanna, who passed away many years ago. She was a fantastic cook and I still miss her and her cooking, particularly her wonderful cakes. This is a simple pasta classic from zia Maria who is a master of pasta, as well as many other dishes. If I ever write a book on roasted meats, she will feature very strongly, as will the amazing salads that come from my zio Quintino’s garden.

This dish uses spare ribs, the secondary braising cut section of the rib, as opposed to the rib cutlet, a leaner roasting or grilling cut. Not surprisingly, Italian cooking does a lot with secondary cuts and it is interesting that in some parts of the world these ribs are called ‘Italian ribs’. They are perfect for braising because meat close to the bone tends to be more flavoursome. Pork spare ribs also have lots of connective tissue that turns to a wonderfully unctuous and extremely flavoursome ‘jelly’ as it slowly cooks. Perfection!

100 ml (3½ fl oz) extra virgin olive oil

1 kg (2 lb 4 oz) pork spare ribs

fine sea salt, to taste

freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1 small brown onion, finely diced

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

125 ml (4 fl oz/½ cup) white wine

750 ml (26 fl oz/3 cups) good-quality tomato passata (puréed tomatoes)

600 g (1 lb 5 oz) good-quality dried spaghetti

freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, to serve

Heat the extra virgin olive oil in a saucepan over medium–high heat and seal the pork ribs in batches until brown. Season with the sea salt and black pepper, then remove and set aside. In the same saucepan, sauté the onion and garlic until translucent. Deglaze with the white wine and reduce until it has almost evaporated. Return the ribs to the pan and add the tomato passata. Cover and simmer for almost 2 hours, or until the ribs are tender. Remove the flesh from the bones and discard the bones.

Cook the pasta in abundant salted water until al dente, drain and stir through the sauce. Serve topped with freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano cheese.