18^th century

Hogs Pudding

Hogs pudding is connected to the West Country today, but in the olden days it used to be made nationally. There are versions using a pig’s or lamb’s ‘pluck’ – which is the heart, lungs and liver – instead of just pig’s liver, giving it the name Devonshire or West Country haggis. However, I have not come across a mention of a Devonshire haggis or a West Country haggis in any of my ancient cookery books, so I believe that is a modern tale.

Hogs pudding was traditionally cut into slices and fried, and the slices were then used to decorate other plates of meat. It was eaten as a side dish, with something else. This is a nice salty pudding to have with scallops or lobster, and it is also very good for breakfast with an egg or two.

Another Sort of Hogs Puddings

To half a pound of grated bread, put half a pound of hogs liver boil’d, cold, and grated, a pound and half of suet finely shred, a handful of salt, a handful of sweet herbs, chopt small, some spice; mix all these together, with six eggs well beaten, and a little thick cream; fill your guts and boil them; when cold, cut them in round slices an inch thick; fry them in butter, and garnish your dish of fowls, hafh, or fricassee.

Eliza Smith, The Compleat Housewife, 1727