Although nothing suggests that the day on which the Empire pudding had to be made was indeed Stir-up Sunday, I think when this tradition became common, this was the moment when preparing the pudding became a family affair and a celebration. To this day, most British families will enjoy their Christmas pudding and prepare it well in advance to soak it in rich booze until Christmas Day.

For this plum pudding, I started with one of the earliest recipes and it has evolved in my kitchen over the past few years. It is a favourite with my friends and family and I will often make several, either to give as gifts or keep for a few months, or even until the next Christmas, as the pudding only gets better and better.

Plum pudding

Makes 2 puddings using 16 cm (6¼ inch/No. 36) basins (moulds), or 6–7 mini (150 ml/5 fl oz) puddings

200 g (7 oz) shredded suet

75 g (2¾ oz) plain (all-purpose) or spelt flour

150 g (5½ oz/2½ cups) fresh breadcrumbs

150 g (5½ oz) muscovado (dark brown) sugar

150 g (5½ oz) currants

150 g (5½ oz) raisins

40 g (1½ oz) candied orange peel

1 small dessert apple, grated

2 teaspoons mixed spice

½ teaspoon grated nutmeg

½ teaspoon sea salt

3 large eggs

150 ml (5 fl oz) brandy or dark rum

75 ml (2¼ fl oz) stout (beer)

butter, to grease the pudding basins

Prepare the pudding basins for steaming, as explained here.

Mix together all the dry ingredients in a large bowl, then add the eggs, brandy and stout and mix well by gently stirring with a wooden spoon. You can stir from east to west if you fancy it. If you have the time, leave the mixture to rest overnight.

Preheat the oven to 160°C (315°F). Spoon the batter into the prepared pudding basins and proceed as instructed here. Steam for 3–4 hours for small puddings and 5–7 hours for large ones.

After the puddings are steamed you can either serve them straight away or, if Christmas is still a while off, cool the puddings in their basins, change the baking paper covers for clean ones and tie up. Store the pudding in a cool cupboard and, if you like a boozy pudding, feed it with a couple of teaspoons of brandy or rum once a week. This will also help preserve the puddings.

To serve on the day, steam for 1 hour and serve with custard sauce, clotted cream or brandy butter and enjoy.

Use appelstroop (apple butter) instead of the dark sugar to give the pudding more depth of flavour. I also like to add a handful of walnuts or pecans. Combinations are endless; adding dried cranberries to the mix is lovely too, but stay away from glacé cherries as they make the dish far too sweet.