19^th century

Semolina Pudding

Shaped semolina puddings have been appearing in English cookery books since the beginning of the nineteenth century. The puddings are either prepared in a pastry shell like a pie, or baked or steamed in a mould. The soft porridge-like semolina pudding that is more common today was popularised during the Second World War, when packaged versions (the same brand as custard powder) were sold and Ingredients have rarely been added since then.

Victorian semolina puddings, often meant for the nursery, were made in many ways. Some used almond milk, others used currants or fruit preserve. The recipe below from Massey and Son’s Comprehensive Pudding Book uses broken up ratafia, a biscuit made with sweet and bitter almonds that has a distinctive marzipan flavour. They are also known as ‘amaretti’ in Italy.

Semolina pudding baked

Three-quarters of a pound of semolina, six ounces of sugar, half a pound of butter, eight eggs, a pint of cream, one tablespoonful of orange flower water, and two ounces of ratafias; mix the semolina with the sugar, orange flower water, half the butter, two eggs, the cream and salt, in a stewpan; stir this over the fire until it boils, then continue stirring until it is smooth and detaches from the sides, withdraw it from the fire, and gradually mix in the remainder of the eggs, butter, and bruised ratafias; put this into a mould, No. 973, put the mould into a deep saucepan half full of hot water, place in the oven and bake for one hour and a quarter, and serve with sauce

Massey and Son’s Comprehensive Pudding Book, 1865

Makes enough for two 600–800 ml (21–28 fl oz) basins (moulds)

600 ml (21 fl oz) thick (double) cream

70 g (2½ oz) raw sugar

15 g (½ oz) butter

145 g (5¼ oz) semolina

a pinch of salt

1 tablespoon orange flower water

2 eggs

40 g (1½ oz) ratafia biscuits, broken, or use store-bought amaretti biscuits

butter for greasing

Preheat the oven to 160°C (315°F).

In a medium saucepan, bring the cream to a gentle simmer with the sugar and butter. Pour in the semolina, salt and orange flower water and stir until it starts to boil, turn down the heat completely, then add the eggs one at a time and continue to stir until the mixture is smooth. Now fold in the crushed biscuits.

Lightly grease the basins and pour in the pudding mixture. Place the basins in a baking dish or large ovenproof pot and pour hot water into it to come halfway up the sides of the pudding basins.

Bake for 40 minutes and then remove from the oven and allow to rest for about 10 minutes. Loosen the puddings at the sides by pushing gently with your fingers, then unmould by placing a plate on top of each basin and turning them over.

Serve with stewed soft fruits, such as apricots, peaches or raspberries. A drizzle with raspberry vinegar gives the dish a punch and looks very pretty. For decoration you can add some candied orange peel.