18^th century

Trinity Burnt Cream

Trinity burnt cream is a pudding that, according to legend, first appeared in 1617 at Trinity College in Cambridge; however, even the college can’t trace the pudding as far back as 1617. The first recipe for a ‘burnt cream’ – or ‘crème brûlée’, as it is known in France – appeared in the French book Nouveau Cuisinier Royal et Bourgeois (Francoise Massialot) in 1691. Yet by the 1731 edition of this book the name had changed to ‘Crème Anglaise’. Maybe this dish was most popular in England, or maybe it originated in England after all. The earliest recipe for a burnt cream in an English cookery book I have found is from The Cooks and Confectioners Dictionary written in 1723 by John Nott. However, Jane Grigson, in English Food (1974) tells us that she had found a recipe for a burnt cream in a seventeenth century manuscript, but unfortunately she doesn’t name the recipe book.

Burnt Cream

Take yolks of four or five Eggs, beat them well in a Stew-pan with a little Flour; pouring on Milk by degrees to the quantity of a Quart; then put in a small Stick of Cinnamon, some candy’d and green Lemon-peel cut small. Set the Cream on the Furnace, stir it continually, that it do not stick to the Bottom. When it is boil’d, set a dish upon the Furnace, and pour the Cream into it, and let it boil again, ’till it sticks to the side of the Dish; then set it aside, and sugar it well on the top; heat the Fire-shovel red hot, and brown the Cream with it to give it a fine golden Colour.

John Nott, The Cooks and Confectioners Dictionary, 1723

It is unclear where the dish originated, as recipes for Crema Catalana go back centuries as well. We will perhaps never know, or we can assume that it is only natural for any cook to try out burning some sugar on top of the custard with a red hot salamander – a shovel-like instrument made hot in the fire and used to give dishes a fried top.

Although we associate a crème brûlée or burnt cream with vanilla, these early recipes never use it. In these recipes the cream is flavoured with candied peel and sometimes orange flower water.

Makes enough for six 150 ml (5 fl oz) ramekins

6 egg yolks

1 teaspoon plain (all-purpose) flour or rice flour

800 ml (28 fl oz) milk

1 cinnamon stick

1 teaspoon chopped candied lemon peel

Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F).

Whisk the egg yolks thoroughly in a large bowl and stir in the flour. Boil water in a kettle or saucepan so you have hot water at hand.

Put the milk in a saucepan over low heat with the cinnamon and chopped lemon peel. Bring to a simmer, then when the milk starts to bubble, remove the saucepan from the heat.

Take out the cinnamon stick. You can strain out the candied peel too, if you like, but I never do and quite enjoy a bit of peel here and there.

Pour a small amount of warm milk into the egg yolks and whisk thoroughly. This prepares the yolk for the hot liquid and will prevent it from curdling. Gradually add the rest of the milk, whisking constantly until it is all incorporated.

Place the ramekins in a large baking dish and pour in enough hot water to come about 1.5 cm (⁵/₈ inch) up the sides. Now pour or spoon the warm custard mixture into the ramekins, filling them up right to the top. If a foam develops, skim it off with a spoon.

Bake in the middle of the oven for 50 minutes or until the mixture is set but still has a gentle wobble. Carefully and cautiously lift the ramekins out of the baking dish and place them on a wire rack to cool.

Transfer them to the fridge when cooled, until you need them. When you are ready to serve, gently spread a teaspoon of sugar over each custard and then get out your kitchen blowtorch. Gently burn the sugar by holding the flame just above it and moving the torch around until the sugar is caramelised.