Snake fritters

Serves 2 people

a few saffron threads

100 ml (3½ fl oz) white wine

125 g (4½ oz) butter

50 g (1¾ oz) raw sugar

225 g (8 oz/1½ cups) plain (all-purpose) flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

lard, tallow or oil, to fry

extra sugar, to sprinkle (optional)

Soak the saffron in the wine until the wine is nicely coloured.

In a saucepan, heat the wine, butter and sugar gently and simmer until the butter is melted and the sugar has dissolved.

Take the saucepan off the heat and add the flour and baking powder. Combine well with a spatula until the mixture comes away from the pan and forms a ball, just like choux pastry. When the dough looks silky smooth, it is done.

Scoop the dough into a piping (icing) bag fitted with a large star nozzle. Heat the lard in a deep-fryer or large heavy-based saucepan until it reaches 160°C (315°F), or until a tiny bit of dough dropped in the oil turns golden brown in 30–35 seconds.

Carefully but swiftly pipe a long snake of the pastry into the hot fat. Fry until golden and transfer to sheets of paper towel to absorb some of the fat. Sprinkle with sugar just before serving, or leave plain.

Some historical recipes call for extra flavourings, such as nutmeg or rosewater. I like to add a generous pinch of nutmeg to the batter when melting the butter.