17^th century

Syllabub

This is a recipe for a separating syllabub. In the seventeenth century these were served in the most delicate, spouted, glass syllabub pots and in the eighteenth century they were served in dainty bell-top glasses to support the froth. A spoon was provided, so guests could scoop out the froth.

A Syllabub

My Lady Middlesex makes Syllabubs for little Glasses with spouts, thus. Take 3 pints of sweet Cream, one of quick white wine (or Rhenish), and a good wine glassful (better the ¼ of a pint) of Sack: mingle with them about three quarters of a pound of fine Sugar in Powder. Beat all these together with a whisk, till all appeareth converted into froth. Then pour it into your little Syllabub-glasses, and let them stand all night. The next day the Curd will be thick and firm above, and the drink clear under it. I conceive it may do well, to put into each glass (when you pour the liquor into it) a sprig of Rosemary a little bruised, or a little Limon-peel, or some such thing to quicken the taste; or use Amber-sugar, or spirit of Cinnamon, or of Lignum-Cassiae; or Nutmegs, or Mace, or Cloves, a very little.

Sir Kenelm Digby, The Closet of the Eminently Learned Sir Kenelme Digbie Knight Opened, 1669

I find syllabubs quite fitting for a stylish occasion. Place them all together on glass compotes as they would have done in the eighteenth century; your guests will be impressed.

The recipe for this syllabub is, in essence, the same as the everlasting syllabub, only omitting the lemon juice.

Serves 6, made in fluted 100 ml (3½ fl oz) glasses

425 ml (15 fl oz) thick (double) cream

50 g (1¾ oz) raw sugar, processed to a fine powder

125 ml (4 fl oz/½ cup) white wine, such as riesling

60 ml (2 fl oz/¼ cup) sherry or Madeira

6 rosemary sprigs, to garnish

In an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, whisk together the cream and the sugar on low speed. Combine the lemon juice with the alcohol and add that to the cream, whisking constantly until it becomes thick. You may whisk this by hand, but it needs at least 10–15 minutes of whisking. Fill the syllabub glasses or use for a trifle.

Add a sprig of rosemary to each syllabub glass.

Allow to rest in the fridge until the mixture separates, then serve with a straw and a little spoon so people can suck out the liquid part and scoop off the froth.

Whipped syllabub

Take off the froth after it has separated from the liquid and fill the glasses with more white wine, add a sprig of rosemary and then return the froth to the top.

For extra decoration, you can use either fresh zest of a lemon cut into thin strips as for cocktails, or thin slices of candied peel.