A one-quart pewter sorbetière, left, and a nineteenth century pressed glass ‘Penny Lick’ ice-cream glass

19^th century

Tamarind Ice Cream

Tamarinds are curious fruits that grow in pods and have tough strings. The flavour is very tart and tamarinds are one of the prime Ingredients of Worcestershire sauce. In the eighteenth century, little balls of tamarind were placed in custard tarts, but they were also turned into a beautiful ice cream.

786. Tamarind Cream Ice

Take half a pound of tamarinds, three spoonfuls of syrup (No. 675); warm it together, and add one pint and a half of cream; rub it through a sieve; and freeze, as No 759.

John Conrade Cooke, Cookery and Confectionery, 1824

I learned to make this ice cream using the Georgian method at the home of food historian Ivan Day, using a pewter sorbetière to freeze the ice cream. It is truly refreshing on a hot summer’s day, or after a festively rich meal, as the tartness of the tamarind cuts right through the richness of the ice cream. The unusual flavour of the tamarind will ensure your dinner guests will be curious and wanting seconds.

Serves 4–6

600 ml (21 fl oz) thick (double) cream

80 g (2¾ oz) raw sugar

50 g (1¾ oz) unsweetened tamarind purée

In a medium saucepan, bring the cream to a simmer with the sugar and tamarind purée. Simmer over low heat for 7–10 minutes, constantly poking the tamarind purée with a fork until it comes away from the threads it still has and starts to dissolve. The tamarind will colour the cream a pale chocolate milk colour.

Strain out the tamarind threads by pushing the cream through a sieve. Allow to cool completely. Now freeze the mixture according to the instructions here.

Make sure you use tamarind purée that contains 100 per cent tamarind pulp and no other additives or sugar. You can find tamarind purée in shops specialising in Indian groceries.