Candied Citrus Peel

In the Tudor period these candied fruits or sweetmeats were known as ‘wet suckets’ because they were kept in syrup. They were an important addition to the banqueting courses and displayed to show off their beautiful colours.

Before these sweetmeats were made in England, they were imported from the Mediterranean; however, by the Tudor period they were made in England with imported fruits. By the eighteenth century candied fruits were available to buy from professional confectioners.

The method for making candied fruit hardly changed over the centuries. In fact the method I use is inspired by Eliza Smith’s 1727 book, The Compleat Housewife.

whole oranges, citrons or lemons

an equal weight of sugar to the fruit

100 ml (3½ fl oz) water to each 100 g (3½ oz) of sugar

Day 1. Wash and peel the citrus fruit, discarding the flesh. Cut the peel of each piece of fruit into six equal pieces.

Poach the peel in fresh water until tender, making sure the fruit is kept underwater at all times. This takes 30–40 minutes.

Put the peel in a clean saucepan and cover with the sugar and water. Bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar and continue to cook for 30 minutes. Leave to steep overnight.

Day 2. Bring the syrup and peel back to the boil, then immediately remove from the heat and use tongs to transfer the peel to a clean, warmed glass jar. Pour the syrup over the peel and allow to cool. When cool, put on the lid and store in the fridge.

Day 3. Strain the syrup into a pan and return the peel to a warmed glass jar. Bring the syrup to the boil, then pour it back over the peel and return to the fridge when cool. Repeat this step daily for 10 days.

After 10 days the peel looks translucent and soft. Keeping them in syrup keeps them moist. If you like the peels dry, drain the syrup and dust some caster (superfine) sugar over them while leaving them to dry to a consistency that you prefer.

Keep the peel in the fridge at all times, when it looks like it is starting to ferment, simply boil the syrup again and pour it back over the peel.