Sponge Cakes

Sponge cakes, or ‘Savoy biscuits’ as they were also known, often feature in recipes as an Ingredient, such as cake layers in a tort de moy, or general satisfaction, or soaked in booze in a cabinet pudding. Sometimes lady fingers (savoiardi) are used instead, as in a trifle, but for some dishes you really need sponge cakes.

Although one might think, by looking at old recipe books, that they were never eaten on their own, on rare occasions – as in The Cookbook of Unknown Ladies (c. 1690) – they are mentioned to be ‘proper with tea in an afternoon’.

Basically they are no-butter sponge cakes, often with flavourings like orange flower water or rosewater. I find a little butter added improves them, as does the use of self-raising flour.

Makes enough for two 20 cm (8 inch) cakes, or you can use muffin tins to make about 24 individual cakes

butter, for greasing

50 g (1¾ oz) unsalted butter, softened

220 g (7¾ oz/1¼ cups) raw caster (superfine) sugar

4 eggs

½ teaspoon orange flower water, rosewater or lemon zest (optional)

225 g (8 oz/1½ cups) self-raising flour, plus extra for dusting

Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F). Grease the cake tins lightly with butter and dust with flour.

In a bowl, combine the butter and sugar together, adding the eggs one at a time and whisking thoroughly until the mixture is creamy. Add the flavouring, if using. Sift in the flour and fold in well.

Pour the batter into the cake tins and bake in the middle of the oven for 30 minutes. Insert a toothpick: when it comes out clean, the cakes are done. Do not open the oven before 30 minutes have passed or your cakes will collapse.

They should not have a lot of colour on top.

Keep sponge cakes in an airtight container for up to 1 week.