Understand Singapore

Singapore Today

Ecofriendly architectural wonders, a billion-dollar super-park and a swell of world-class bars and eateries – Singapore is shining its way into the future. Yet the city-state’s ascent from tiny shipping village to global powerhouse is not without its challenges. Driven by an influx of foreign workers, massive population growth is straining infrastructure, affordability, and the patience of many Singaporeans. Simultaneously, the gag on the LGBT community’s annual Pink Dot festival has a lot of people talking.

History

Singapore was originally a tiny sea town squeezed between powerful neighbours Sumatra and Melaka. According to Malay legend, a Sumatran prince spotted a lion while visiting the island of Temasek, and on the basis of this good omen he founded a city there called Singapura (Lion City).

Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles arrived in 1819 to secure a strategic base for the British Empire in the Strait of Melaka. He decided to transform the sparsely populated, swampy island into a free-trade port. The layout of central Singapore is still as Raffles drew it.

WWII

The glory days of the empire came to an abrupt end on 15 February 1942, when the Japanese invaded Singapore. For the rest of WWII the Japanese ruled the island harshly, jailing Allied prisoners of war at Changi Prison and killing thousands of locals. Although the British were welcomed back after the war, their days in the region were numbered.

Foundation for the Future

The socialist People’s Action Party (PAP) was founded in 1954, with Lee Kuan Yew as its secretary general. Lee led the PAP to victory in elections held in 1959, and hung onto power for more than 30 years. Singapore was kicked out of the Malay Federation in 1965, but Lee pushed through an ambitious, strict and successful industrialisation program.

His successor in 1990 was Goh Chok Tong, who loosened things up a little, but maintained Singapore on the path Lee had forged. In 2004 Goh stepped down to make way for Lee’s son, Lee Hsien Loong.

Lee the Younger faces the huge challenge of positioning Singapore to succeed in the modern, globalised economy. As manufacturing bleeds away to cheaper competitors, the government is focused on boosting its population, attracting more ‘foreign talent’ and developing industries such as tourism, financial services, digital media and biomedical research.

People & Culture

Singapore is the ultimate melting pot. With no less than four official languages, it’s a place where mosques sidle up to Hindu and Taoist temples, where European chefs experiment with Chinese spices, and where local English is peppered with Hokkien, Tamil and Malay words. Since Sir Stamford Raffles set up a free trading port on the island in 1819, the Little Red Dot has been defined and redefined by its wave of migrants, from early Chinese workers to modern-day expats seeking their corporate fortunes.

Population

The majority of the 5.6 million people are Chinese (74% of the population). Next come the Malays (13%), Indians (9%) and Eurasians and ‘others’ (4%). Western expats are a very visible group. Also visible is the large population of domestic maids and foreign labourers. Contrary to popular belief, English is the first language of Singapore. Many Singaporeans speak a second language or dialect (usually Mandarin, Malay or Tamil).

Religion

The Chinese majority are usually Buddhists or Taoists, and Chinese customs, superstitions and festivals dominate social life.

The Malays embrace Islam as a religion and a way of life. Adat (customary law) guides important ceremonies and events, including birth, circumcision and marriage.

More than half the Indians are Hindus and worship the pantheon of gods in various temples across Singapore. Christianity, including Catholicism, is also popular in Singapore, with both Chinese and Indians pledging their faith to this religion.

Survival Guide

8Directory A–Z

ACCOMMODATION

Hostels offer competitive prices (S$20 to S$45 for a dorm bed) and facilities such as free internet, breakfast and laundry use. Cheaper en-suite hotel rooms (S$50 to S$100) are cramped and often windowless. Most places offer air-con rooms. Establishments usually quote net prices, which include all taxes. If you see ++ after a price, you’ll need to add a 10% service charge and 7% GST.

SLEEPING PRICE RANGES

The following price ranges refer to the price of a double room including taxes.

$ less than S$150

$$ S$150 to S$350

$$$ more than S$350

CUSTOMS REGULATIONS

You are permitted 1L each of wine, beer and spirits duty free. Alternatively, you are allowed 2L of wine and 1L of beer, or 2L of beer and 1L of wine. You need to have been out of Singapore for more than 48 hours and to anywhere but Malaysia.

ELECTRICITY

Electricity is 230V, 50Hz; plugs usually have three flat pins.

EMERGENCY

Country Code	%65
Ambulance & Fire	%995
Police	%999

EMBASSIES & CONSULATES

For a full list of foreign embassies and consulates in Singapore, check out the website of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs (www.mfa.gov.sg).

Australian High Commission (MAP; %6836 4100; www.singapore.embassy.gov.au; 25 Napier Rd; h8.30am-4pm Mon-Fri; g7, 75, 77, 105, 106, 123, 174)

Canadian High Commission (MAP; %6854 5900; www.singapore.gc.ca; Level 11, 1 George St; h8am-4.30pm Mon-Thu, to 1.30pm Fri; mClarke Quay, Raffles Place)

Dutch Embassy (MAP; %6737 1155; www.netherlandsworldwide.nl; 13-01 Liat Towers, 541 Orchard Rd; h9am-noon Mon-Fri; mOrchard)

French Embassy (%6880 7800; www.sg.ambafrance.org; 101-103 Cluny Park Rd; h9am-noon & 2.30-3.30pm Mon-Fri; mBotanic Gardens)

German Embassy (MAP; %6533 6002; www.singapur.diplo.de; Level 12, Singapore Land Tower, 50 Raffles Pl; h8.30-11.30am Mon-Fri; mRaffles Place)

New Zealand High Commission (MAP; %6235 9966; www.nzembassy.com/singapore; Level 21, 1 George St; h9am-1pm Mon-Fri; mClarke Quay, Raffles Place)

UK High Commission (MAP; %6424 4200; www.gov.uk/world/singapore; 100 Tanglin Rd; h9-11am Mon, Wed-Fri; g7, 75, 77, 105, 106, 111, 123, 132, 174)

US Embassy (MAP; %6476 9100; https://sg.usembassy.gov; 27 Napier Rd; h8.30am-5.15pm Mon-Fri; g7, 75, 77, 105, 106, 123, 174)

FOOD

Bear in mind that most restaurant prices will have 17% added to them at the end: a 10% service charge plus 7% for GST. You’ll see this indicated by ++ on menus.

EATING PRICE RANGES

The following price ranges represent the cost of a single dish or a main course, including service charge and GST.

$ less than S$10

$$ S$10–30

$$$ more than S$30

INTERNET ACCESS

Singapore has an ever-expanding network of around 10,000 wireless hot spots – and most cafes, pubs, libraries and malls operate them. In Chinatown you’ll find 20 wi-fi hot spots within just a few blocks of the MRT station – simply choose the wireless@chinatown wi-fi network. You don’t need a local number to access the free wi-fi – just download the wireless@sg app, fill in your details and you’ll be able to locate the nearest free hot spots.

LGBT TRAVELLERS

Sex between men is illegal in Singapore, carrying a minimum sentence of 10 years. In reality, nobody is ever likely to be prosecuted, but the ban remains as a symbol of the government’s belief that the country is not ready for the open acceptance of homosexuality.

Despite that, Singapore has a string of popular LGBT bars. A good place to start looking for information is on the websites of Travel Gay Asia (www.travelgayasia.com), PLUguide (www.pluguide.com) or Utopia (www.utopia-asia.com), which provide coverage of venues and events.

LEGAL MATTERS

The law is extremely tough in Singapore, but also relatively free from corruption. Possession and trafficking of drugs is punishable by death. Smoking in all public places, including bars, restaurants and hawker centres, is banned unless there’s an official smoking ‘area’.

MEDICAL SERVICES

Your hotel or hostel should be able to direct you to a local GP: there are plenty around.

International Medical Clinic (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %6733 4440; www.imc-healthcare.com; 14-06 Camden Medical Centre, 1 Orchard Blvd; h8am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat; mOrchard) Specialising in family and travel medicine.

Raffles Medical Clinic (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %6311 2233; www.rafflesmedicalgroup.com; Level 2, Raffles Hospital, 585 North Bridge Rd; h8am-10pm; mBugis) A walk-in clinic at Raffles Hospital.

Singapore General Hospital (%6222 3322; www.sgh.com.sg; Block 1, Outram Rd; mOutram Park) Also has an emergency room.

MONEY

The country’s unit of currency is the Singapore dollar (S$), locally referred to as the ‘singdollar’, which is made up of 100 cents. Singapore uses 5¢, 10¢, 20¢, 50¢ and S$1 coins, while notes come in denominations of S$2, S$5, S$10, S$50, S$100, S$500 and S$1000. The Singapore dollar is a highly stable and freely convertible currency.

Cirrus-enabled ATMs are widely available at malls, banks, MRT stations and commercial areas. Banks change money, but virtually nobody uses them for currency conversion because the rates are better at the money changers dotted all over the city. These tiny stalls can be found in just about every shopping centre (though not necessarily in the more modern malls). Rates can be haggled a little if you’re changing amounts of S$500 or more.

OPENING HOURS

Banks 9.30am to 4.30pm Monday to Friday (some branches open at 10am and some close at 6pm or later); 9.30am to noon or later Saturday.

Government and Post Offices Between 8am and 9.30am to between 4pm and 6pm Monday to Friday; between 8am and 9am to between 11.30am and 1.30pm Saturday.

Restaurants Top restaurants generally noon–2.30pm for lunch and 6pm to 11pm for dinner. Casual restaurants and food courts open all day.

Shops 10am or 11am to 6pm; larger shops and department stores open until 9.30pm or 10pm. Some smaller shops in Chinatown and Arab St close Sunday.

POST

Postal delivery in Singapore is very efficient. Call 1605 to find the nearest post office or check www.singpost.com.sg.

PUBLIC HOLIDAYS

The only holiday that has a major effect on the city is Chinese New Year, when virtually all shops shut down for two days. Public holidays are as follows:

New Year’s Day 1 January

Chinese New Year Three days in January/February

Good Friday March/April

Labour Day 1 May

Vesak Day June

Hari Raya Puasa July

National Day 9 August

Hari Raya Haji September

Deepavali October

Christmas Day 25 December

SAFE TRAVEL

Singapore is one of the world’s safest and easiest travel destinations, but be aware of the following:

APenalties for the illegal import or export of drugs are severe and include the death penalty.

AOutbreaks of mosquito-borne illnesses, such as dengue fever do occur, especially during the wet season. There have also been a number of zika cases confimed in Singapore; the National Environment Board (www.nea.gov.sg) monitors any outbreaks. Wear mosquito repellent, especially if visiting nature reserves.

AEating and drinking is prohibited on public transport.

TELEPHONE

ASingapore’s country code is 65.

AThere are no area codes within Singapore; telephone numbers are eight digits unless you are calling toll-free (1800).

AMobile-phone numbers start with a 9 or 8.

You can buy a tourist SIM card for around S$15 from post offices, convenience stores and telco stores – by law you must show your passport. Local carriers include:

M1 (www.m1.com.sg)

SingTel (www.singtel.com)

StarHub (www.starhub.com)

TOURIST INFORMATION

Before your trip, a good place to check for information is the website of the Singapore Tourism Board.

Singapore Visitors Centre @ Orchard (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %1800 736 2000; www.yoursingapore.com; 216 Orchard Rd; h8.30am-9.30pm; mSomerset) Singapore’s main tourist-information centre, with brochures, customised itineraries and design-savvy souvenirs. Check out the Event Space on level two, which often holds exhibitions showcasing Singapore’s heritage and culture.

Singapore Visitors Centre @ ION Orchard (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %1800 736 2000; www.yoursingapore.com; Level 1 Concierge, ION Orchard, 2 Orchard Turn; h10am-10pm; mOrchard)

Singapore Visitor Centre@Chinatown (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %1800 736 2000; www.yoursingapore.com; 2 Banda St; h9am-9pm; mChinatown) Offers maps of Chinatown and Singapore, books various tours, and has a small range of quality souvenirs, including books, reproduction watercolours of Singapore street scenes, and T-shirts.

TRAVELLERS WITH DISABILITIES

A large government campaign has seen ramps, lifts and other facilities progressively installed around the island. The footpaths in the city are nearly all immaculate, all MRT stations have lifts and there are some buses and taxis equipped with wheelchair-friendly equipment.

The Disabled People’s Association Singapore (www.dpa.org.sg) can provide information on accessibility in Singapore. Download Lonely Planet’s free Accessible Travel guide from http://lptravel.to/AccessibleTravel.

VISAS

Citizens of most countries are granted 90-day entry on arrival. Citizens of India, Myanmar and certain other countries must obtain a visa before arriving. Visa extensions can be applied for at the Immigration & Checkpoints Authority (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %6391 6100; www.ica.gov.sg; Level 4, ICA Bldg, 10 Kallang Rd; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri; mLavender).

VOLUNTEERING

Volunteering in their local community is very important to Singaporeans. The website of SG Cares (www.sgcares.org) lists activities requiring assistance.

WOMEN TRAVELLERS

There are few problems for women travelling in Singapore. In Kampong Glam and Little India skimpy clothing may attract unwanted stares. Tampons and pads are widely available across the island, as are over-the-counter medications.

8Getting There & Away

AIR

Changi Airport (%6595 6868; www.changiairport.com; Airport Blvd; mChangi Airport), 20km northeast of Singapore’s central business district (CBD), has four main terminals (the latest opened in 2017) and a fifth already in the works. Regularly voted the world’s best airport, it is a major international gateway, with frequent flights to all corners of the globe. You’ll find free internet, courtesy phones for local calls, foreign-exchange booths, medical centres, left luggage, hotels, day spas, showers, a gym, a swimming pool and no shortage of shops.

BOAT

Ferry services from Malaysia and Indonesia arrive at various ferry terminals in Singapore.

Changi Point Ferry Terminal (%6545 2305; 51 Lorong Bekukong; h24hr; g2)

HarbourFront Cruise & Ferry Terminal (MAP; %6513 2200; www.singaporecruise.com; 1 Maritime Sq; mHarbourFront)

Tanah Merah Ferry Terminal (%6513 2200; www.singaporecruise.com.sg; 50 Tanah Merah Ferry Rd; g35)

To/From Indonesia & Malaysia

Direct ferries run between the Riau Archipelago islands of Pulau Batam and Pulau Bintan and Singapore. The ferries are modern, fast and air-conditioned. A small ferry also runs between Singapore and Tanjung Belungkor in Malaysia.

BatamFast (%HarbourFront terminal 6270 2228, Tanah Merah terminal 6542 6310; www.batamfast.com) Ferries from Batam Centre, Sekupang and Harbour Bay in Pulau Batam terminate at HarbourFront Ferry Terminal. Ferries from Nongsapura, also in Pulau Batam, terminate at the Tanah Merah Ferry Terminal.

Bintan Resort Ferries (%6542 4369; www.brf.com.sg; 01-21 Tanah Merah Ferry Terminal, 50 Tanah Merah Ferry Rd; h7am-8pm Mon-Fri, 6.30am-8pm Sat & Sun; mTanah Merah, then bus 35) Ferries to Bandar Bentan Telani in Pulau Bintan depart from Tanah Merah Ferry Terminal.

Sindo Ferries (%HarbourFront terminal 6331 4123, Tanah Merah terminal 6331 4122; www.sindoferry.com.sg; 01-15 Tanah Merah Ferry Terminal, 50 Tanah Merah Ferry Rd; g35) Ferries to Batam Centre, Sekupang, Waterfront and Tanjung Balai depart from HarbourFront Ferry Terminal. Ferries to Tanjung Pinang depart from Tanah Merah Ferry Terminal.

Limbongan Maju Ferry Services (%Tangjung Belungkor 07-827 8001; www.tanjungbelungkor.com) Ferries from Tanjung Belungkor, Malaysia, arrive at Changi Point Ferry Terminal.

BUS

If you are travelling beyond Johor Bahru, Malaysia, the simplest option is to catch a bus straight from Singapore, though there are more options and lower fares travelling from JB.

Numerous private companies run comfortable bus services to Singapore from many destinations in Malaysia, including Melaka and Kuala Lumpur, as well as from destinations such as Hat Yai in Thailand. Many of these services terminate at Golden Mile Complex Bus Terminal (5001 Beach Rd; mBugis, Nicoll Hwy), close to Kampong Glam. Golden Mile Complex houses numerous bus agencies specialising in journeys from Singapore to Malaysia or Thailand. You can book online at www.busonlineticket.com.

TRAIN

As of July 2015, it’s no longer possible to catch a direct train from Singapore to Kuala Lumpur. Instead, Malaysian company Keretapi Tanah Melayu Berhad (www.ktmb.com.my) operates a shuttle train from Woodlands Train Checkpoint (11 Woodlands Crossing; g170, Causeway Link Express from Queen St terminal) to JB Sentral with a connection to Kuala Lumpur. Tickets for the shuttle (S$5) can be bought at the counter. Trains leave from here to Kuala Lumpur, with connections on to Thailand. You can book tickets at the Woodlands or JB Sentral stations or via the dreadful KTM website.

8Getting Around

TO/FROM THE AIRPORT

MRT trains run into town from Changi Airport from 5.30am to 11.18pm; public buses run from 6am to midnight. Both the train and bus trips cost from S$1.69. The airport shuttle bus (adult/child S$9/$6) runs 24 hours a day. A taxi into the city will cost anywhere from S$20 to S$40, and up to 50% more between midnight and 6am, plus airport surcharges. A four-seater limousine taxi is S$55, plus a S$15 surcharge per additional stop.

BICYCLE

Avoid cycling on roads. Drivers are sometimes aggressive and the roads themselves are uncomfortably hot. A much safer and more pleasant option for cyclists is Singapore’s large network of parks and park connectors, not to mention the dedicated mountain-biking areas at Bukit Timah Nature Reserve, Tampines and Pulau Ubin.

Other excellent places for cycling include East Coast Park, Sentosa, Pasir Ris Park and the route linking Mt Faber Park, Telok Blangah Hill Park and Kent Ridge Park.

BUS

Singapore’s extensive bus service is clean, efficient and regular, reaching every corner of the island. The two main operators are SBS Transit (%1800 287 2727; www.sbstransit.com.sg) and SMRT (%1800 336 8900; www.smrt.com.sg). Both offer similar services. For information and routes, check the websites. Alternatively, download the ‘SG Buses’ smartphone app, which will give you real-time bus arrivals.

Bus fares range from S$1 to S$2.10 (less with an EZ-Link card). When you board the bus, drop the exact money into the fare box (no change is given), or tap your EZ-Link card or Singapore Tourist Pass on the reader as you board, then again when you get off.

MASS RAPID TRANSIT (MRT)

The efficient Mass Rapid Transit (MRT) subway system is the easiest, quickest and most comfortable way to get around Singapore. The system operates from 5.30am to midnight, with trains at peak times running every two to three minutes, and off-peak every five to seven minutes. You’ll find a map of the network at www.smrt.com.sg.

Single-trip tickets cost from S$1.40 to S$2.50 (plus a 10¢ refundable deposit), but if you’re using the MRT a lot it can become a hassle buying and refunding tickets for every journey. A lot more convenient is the EZ-Link card. Alternatively, a Singapore Tourist Pass (www.thesingaporetouristpass.com.sg) offers unlimited train and bus travel (S$10 plus a S$10 refundable deposit) for one day.

TAXI

You can flag down a taxi any time, but in the city centre taxis are technically not allowed to stop anywhere except at designated taxi stands.

The fare system is complicated but thankfully it’s all metered, so there’s no haggling over fares. The basic flagfall is S$3 to S$3.40 then S$0.22 for every 400m.

There’s a whole raft of surcharges to note, among them:

A50% of the metered fare from midnight to 6am

A25% of the metered fare between 6am and 9.30am Monday to Friday, and 6pm to midnight daily

AS$5 for airport trips from 5pm to midnight Friday to Sunday, and S$3 at all other times

AS$3 city-area surcharge from 5pm to midnight

AS$2.30 to S$8 for telephone bookings

Payment by credit card incurs a 10% surcharge. You can also pay using your EZ-Link transport card. For a comprehensive list of fares and surcharges, visit www.taxisingapore.com.

Comfort Taxi & CityCab (%6552 1111; www.cdgtaxi.com.sg)

Premier Taxis (%6363 6888; www.premiertaxi.com.sg)

SMRT Taxis (%6555 8888; www.smrt.com.sg)

TRANSPORT MADE EZ

AIf you’re staying in Singapore for more than a day or two, the easiest way to pay for travel on public transport is with the EZ-Link card (www.ezlink.com.sg). The card allows you to travel by train and bus by simply swiping it over sensors as you enter and leave a station or bus.

AEZ-Link cards can be purchased from the customer service counters at MRT stations for S$12 (this includes a S$5 non-refundable deposit).

AThe card can also be bought at 7-Elevens for S$10 (including the S$5 non-refundable deposit).

ACards can be topped up with cash or by ATM cards at station ticket machines. The minimum top-up value is S$10 while the maximum stored value allowed on your card is S$500.

TRISHAW

Trishaws peaked just after WWII when motorised transport was practically nonexistent and trishaw drivers could make a tidy income. Today there are only around 250 trishaws left in Singapore, mainly plying the tourist routes. Trishaws have banded together and are now managed in a queue system by Trishaw Uncle (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %6337 7111; www.trishawuncle.com.sg; Albert Mall Trishaw Park, Queen St; 30min tour adult/child from S$39/29, 45min tour S$49/39; mBugis).