1 On May 22, 1915: For a review of the Eugenia Kelly affair, see New York Times, May 23, 1915, C5; May 25, 1915, 8; May 26, 1915, 8; May 30, 1915, SM16; August 8, 1915, 7; October 1, 1915, 5; November 18, 1915; and Lewis A. Erenberg, Steppin’ Out: New York Nightlife and the Transformation of American Culture, 1890–1930 (Westport, CT: Greenwood Press, 1981), 77–85.
2 $10 million: Eugenia Kelly was due to inherit $600,000 on her twenty-first birthday. According to the Federal Reserve Bank of Minneapolis’s consumer price index calculator, in 2003 dollars that sum equals just over $10 million.
3 1920s fashion writer: Kenneth A. Yellis, “Prosperity’s Child: Some Thoughts on the Flapper,” American Quarterly 21, no. 2 (Spring 1969): 49.
4 Webster’s: Gerald E. Critoph, “The Flapper and Her Critics,” in Carol V. R. George, ed., “Remember the Ladies”: New Perspectives on Women in American History (Syracuse, N.Y.: Syracuse University Press, 1975), 145.
5 “flappers don’t like”: Critoph, “The Flapper and Her Critics,” 145.
6 “Concern—and consternation”: New York Times, April 16, 1922, 49.
7 “flippancy of the … flapper”: New York Times, October 1, 1922, 20.
8 “lowest degree of intelligence”: New York Times, July 6, 1922, 8.
9 Florida State Legislature: New York Times, April 4, 1929, 22.
10 It wasn’t until 1929: William E. Leuchtenberg, The Perils of Prosperity: 1914–1932, rev. ed. 1993 (Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 1958), 158.
11 fourteen-year-old: New York Times, June 4, 1923, 7.
12 “Flapper Jane”: Bruce Bliven, “Flapper Jane,” New Republic, September 9, 1925, 65–67.
1 “brown-shingled building”: Sara Mayfield, Exiles from Paradise: Zelda and Scott Fitzgerald (New York: Delacorte Press, 1971), 1.
2 “sophisticated for her age”: Mayfield, Exiles, 1–2.
3 climbed to the roof: James R. Mellow, Invented Lives: F. Scott & Zelda Fitzgerald (Boston: Houghton Mifflin, 1984), 5.
4 Stutz Bearcat: Mayfield, Exiles, 24.
5 “most popular girl”: Mayfield, Exiles, 24.
6 pear trees: Nancy Milford, Zelda: A Biography (New York: Harper & Row, 1970), 9.
7 cut school: Milford, Zelda, 22.
8 “I do love my Charlie so”: Milford, Zelda, 12.
9 “the last to deny”: Mayfield, Exiles, 22–23.
10 During the summer: Milford, Zelda, 16.
11 legendary Christmas bop: Matthew J. Bruccoli, Some Sort of Epic Grandeur: The Life of F. Scott Fitzgerald, rev. ed, 1993 (New York: Harcourt Brace Jovanovich, 1981), 104.
12 “I never let them down”: Zelda Fitzgerald, Save Me the Last Waltz, in Matthew J. Bruccoli and Mary Gordon, eds., Zelda Fitzgerald: The Collected Writings (New York: Charles Scribner’s Sons, 1991), 32.
13 “the agreeable countenance”: Thomas Alexander Boyd, “Scott Fitzgerald Here on Vacation: ‘Rests’ by Outlining New Novels,” St. Paul Daily News, August 28, 1921, E6; also reprinted in Matthew J. Bruccoli and Judith S. Baugham, eds., Conversations with F. Scott Fitzgerald (Jackson, Miss.: University Press of Mississippi, 2004), 3.
14 leave from the army: Bruccoli, Some Sort of Epic Grandeur, 96–97.
15 most eligible debutantes: Mayfield, Exiles, 1.
16 “great animal magnetism”: Mellow, Invented Lives, 7.
17 “two kinds of girls”: Milford, Zelda, 17.
18 “late dates with fast workers”: Mayfield, Exiles, 2–3.
19 “the handsomest boy”: Mayfield, Exiles, 3.
20 “like new goods”: Zelda Fitzgerald, Save Me the Last Waltz, in Bruccoli and Gordon, eds., Zelda Fitzgerald: The Collected Writings, 39.
21 “break up the stag lines”: Mayfield, Exiles, 45.
22 Zelda’s attention: Milford, Zelda, 22.
23 passed their days: Milford, Zelda, 33–34.
24 “this dusty time”: ZSF to FSF, undated [summer 1935], in Jackson R. Bryer and Cathy W. Barks, eds., Dear Scott, Dearest Zelda: The Love Letters of F. Scott and Zelda Fitzgerald (New York: St. Martin’s Griffin, 2002), 214–15.
25 An entry from 1935: Bruccoli, Some Sort of Epic Grandeur, 106.
1 “ ‘no ladies’ ”: Sara Mayfield, Exiles from Paradise: Zelda and Scott Fitzgerald (New York: Delacorte Press, 1971), 11–12.
2 sexual habits: Alfred Kinsey, Sexual Behavior in the Human Female (Philadelphia: W. B. Saunders, 1953), 298, 339. In his study of one hundred married men and one hundred married women who were born before 1900, G. V. Hamilton found that 67 percent of women born between 1886 and 1890 but only 30 percent of women born between 1891 and 1900 were virgins at marriage. Hamilton’s study is probably skewed by its small sample size and by the unusually active sex lives of its participants. See G. V. Hamilton, A Research in Marriage (New York: A. & C. Boni, Inc., 1929), 43–44.
3 “Sex o’clock”: “Sex o’Clock in America,” Current Opinion 55 (August 1913): 113–14; Agnes Repplier, “The Repeal of Reticence,” Atlantic Monthly 113 (March 1914): 297–304.
4 noted with disapproval: James R. McGovern, “The American Woman’s Pre–World War I Freedom in Manners and Morals,” Journal of American History 55, no. 2 (September 1968): 326.
5 “Where Is Your Daughter”: McGovern, “The American Woman’s Pre–World War I Freedom,” 324.
6 magazine exposé: Page Smith, Redeeming the Time: A People’s History of the 1920s and the New Deal (New York: McGraw-Hill, 1987), 9, 49.
7 “You dare me”: McGovern, “The American Woman’s Pre–World War I Freedom,” 323.
8 “Take It from Me!”: McGovern, “The American Woman’s Pre–World War I Freedom,” 323.
9 “I DO NOT DOUBT YOU”: FSF to ZSF, February 21, 1919, in Jackson R. Bryer and Cathy W. Barks, eds., Dear Scott, Dearest Zelda: The Love Letters of F. Scott and Zelda Fitzgerald (New York: St. Martin’s Griffin, 2002), 11.
10 “DARLING HEART”: FSF to ZSF, February 22, 1919, in Bryer and Barks, eds., Dear Scott, Dearest Zelda, 12.
11 dust from the Auburn incident: Mayfield, Exiles, 46–47.
12 “soft, warm nights”: ZSF to FSF, undated [March 1919], in Bryer and Barks, eds., Dear Scott, Dearest Zelda, 13.
13 “don’t be so depressed”: ZSF to FSF, undated [March 1919], in Bryer and Barks, eds., Dear Scott, Dearest Zelda, 15.
14 122 rejection letters: Matthew J. Bruccoli, Some Sort of Epic Grandeur: The Life of F. Scott Fitzgerald, rev. ed. 1993 (New York: Harcourt Brace Jovanovich, 1981), 111.
15 “about as much control”: F. Scott Fitzgerald, The Crackup (New York: New Directions, 1945), 25.
16 “I must leave now”: ZSF to FSF, undated [March 1919], Bryer and Barks, eds., Dear Scott, Dearest Zelda, 21.
17 “Bill LeGrand and I”: ZSF to FSF, undated [April 1919], in Bryer and Barks, eds., Dear Scott, Dearest Zelda, 24.
18 “ ‘Red’ said”: ZSF to FSF, undated [May 1919], in Bryer and Barks, eds., Dear Scott, Dearest Zelda, 31–32.
19 “awfully silly”: ZSF to FSF, undated [April 1919], in Bryer and Barks, eds., Dear Scott, Dearest Zelda, 24.
20 “Please please”: ZSF to FSF, undated [late May 1919], in Bryer and Barks, eds., Dear Scott, Dearest Zelda, 32–33.
21 “Is that all …?”: Mayfield, Exiles, 75.
22 “added whiskey”: Minnie Sayre to ZSF, enclosed in ZSF to FSF, undated [April 1919], in Bryer and Barks, eds., Dear Scott, Dearest Zelda, 28.
23 “asked me not to write”: ZSF to FSF, undated [June 1919], in Bryer and Barks, eds., Dear Scott, Dearest Zelda, 37.
24 Victrola records: Nancy Milford, Zelda: A Biography (New York: Harper & Row, 1970), 51.
25 “While my friends”: Fitzgerald, The Crackup, 25–26.
1 economic and demographic forces: Lynn Dumenil, Modern Temper: American Culture and Society in the 1920s (New York: Hill and Wang, 1995), 112–18; Joanne J. Meyerowitz, Women Adrift: Independent Wage-Earners in Chicago, 1880–1930 (Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 1988), 4–5.
2 real money … real freedom: Paula S. Fass, The Damned and the Beautiful: American Youth in the 1920s (New York: Oxford University Press, 1977), 24.
3 industrialization and urbanization: Howard P. Chudacoff and Judith E. Smith, The Evolution of American Urban Society (Englewood Cliffs, N.J.: Prentice-Hall, 1995), 69–70, 111–12; William E. Leuchtenberg, The Perils of Prosperity: 1914–1932, rev. ed. (New York: University of Chicago Press, 1958), 225; James T. Patterson, America in the Twentieth Century: A History (New York: Harcourt College Publishers, 2000), 146.
4 “the farmer’s daughter”: Meyerowitz, Women Adrift, 9, 19.
5 “money for clothes”: Meyerowitz, Women Adrift, 18–19.
6 “up to that time”: Meyerowitz, Women Adrift, 18–19. Italics added for emphasis.
7 “mysteries of darkness”: David Nasaw, Going Out: The Rise and Fall of Public Amusements (Cambridge, Mass.: Harvard University Press, 1993), 6.
8 Across America: Nasaw, Going Out, 1–9.
9 more money and more time: Roy Rosenzweig, Eight Hours for What We Will: Workers & Leisure in an Industrial City, 1870–1920 (New York: Cambridge University Press, 1983), 179–180. Thanks to mechanization, the work week of the average urban blue-collar worker plummeted from 55.9 hours in 1900 to 44.2 in 1929; at the same time, real wages adjusted for inflation rose 25 percent in the first two decades of the new century.
10 “throw her arms”: Kathy Peiss, Cheap Amusements: Working Women and Leisure in Turn-of-the-Century New York (Philadelphia: Temple University Press, 1986), 134–35.
11 Louisa: Peiss, Cheap Amusements, 70.
12 “one of the women”: Peiss, Cheap Amusements, 70–1, 99, 108–09.
13 Ina Smith … and John Marean: Ellen K. Rothman, Hands and Hearts: A History of Courtship in America (Cambridge, Mass.: Harvard University Press, 1987), 204–05.
14 “walking under the trees”: Rothman, Hands and Hearts, 207.
15 Otto Follin and Laura Grant: Rothman, Hands and Hearts, 206.
16 Marian Curtis and Lawrence Gerritson: Rothman, Hands and Hearts, 223–35.
17 “going out motoring”: Robert S. Lynd and Helen Merrell Lynd, Middletown: A Study in Modern American Culture (New York: Harcourt, Brace and Co., 1929), 257, 524.
18 Muncie’s high school students: Lynd and Lynd, Middletown, 257, 524.
19 “off and away”: Rothman, Hands and Hearts, 294–95.
20 By 1925 … in Muncie: Lynd and Lynd, Middletown, 258.
21 the old order: Beth L. Bailey, From Front Porch to Back Seat: Courtship in Twentieth-Century America (Baltimore: Johns Hopkins University Press, 1980), 16–17.
22 “I’ll be patient”: Rothman, Hands and Hearts, 230.
23 “If I get much hungrier”: Rothman, Hands and Hearts, 230.
24 This new system: Meyerowitz, Women Adrift, 35–36, 69.
25 crude double standard: Peiss, Cheap Amusements, 68.
26 “If they didn’t take me”: Peiss, Cheap Amusements, 54.
27 “If I did not have a man”: Meyerowitz, Women Adrift, 102.
28 Consumer’s League report: Peiss, Cheap Amusements, 55.
29 MAN GETTING $18: Meyerowitz, Women Adrift, 102–03.
30 Clara Laughlin: Peiss, Cheap Amusements, 112.
31 coed at Ohio State: Paula S. Fass, The Damned and the Beautiful: American Youth in the 1920s (New York: Oxford University Press, 1977), 307.
1 “recognized spokesman”: Frederick James Smith, “Fitzgerald, Flappers and Fame,” Shadowland 3 (January 1921): 39, 75, reprinted in Matthew J. Bruccoli and Judith S. Baughman, eds., Conversations with F. Scott Fitzgerald (Jackson, Miss.: University Press of Mississippi, 2004), 6.
2 “originated the flapper”: “Novelist Loved Atlanta Girl’s Picture,” undated news clip, source unknown, F. Scott Fitzgerald Papers, Firestone Library, Princeton University [hereafter FSF MS], Scrapbook III.
3 “Flapperdom’s Fiction Ace”: Bart Fulton, “Flapperdom’s Fiction Ace,” undated clip [ca. 1922], FSF MS, Scrapbook III.
4 “ ‘eternal feminine’ ”: “The Expert on Flappers,” undated news clip [ca. 1921–1922], Minneapolis Tribune, FSF MS, Scrapbook III.
5 “To Scott Fitzgerald”: Undated, untitled clip, source unknown, FSF MS, Scrapbook II.
6 “Transformation of a Rose”: “The Parliament of Fools,” The Wellesley [?] undated clip, FSF MS, Scrapbook II.
7 “popular daughter”: F. Scott Fitzgerald, This Side of Paradise (New York: Charles Scribner’s Sons, 1920), 58.
8 “saw girls doing things”: Fitzgerald, This Side of Paradise, 59.
9 “Mother, it’s done”: Fitzgerald, This Side of Paradise, 59–60, 178.
10 forty thousand copies: “The Bookman’s Monthly Score,” undated clip [ca. 1920], FSF MS, Scrapbook II.
11 “Before he started”: Untitled, undated clipping [ca. 1921–1922], FSF MS, Scrapbook III.
12 2.75 million: Matthew J. Bruccoli, Some Sort of Epic Grandeur: The Life of F. Scott Fitzgerald, rev. ed. 1993 (New York: Harcourt Brace Jovanovich, 1981), 125.
13 Main Street: Bruccoli, Some Sort of Epic Grandeur, 158.
14 Ardita: F. Scott Fitzgerald, “The Offshore Pirate,” Saturday Evening Post, May 29, 1920.
15 Myra admits: F. Scott Fitzgerald, “Myra Meets His Family,” Saturday Evening Post, March 20, 1920.
16 one in every five households: Robert S. Lynd and Helen Merrell Lynd, Middletown: A Study in Modern American Culture (New York: Harcourt, Brace and Co., 1929), 239.
17 more popular interest: Paula S. Fass, The Damned and the Beautiful: American Youth in the 1920s (New York: Oxford University Press, 1977), 29.
18 number of children borne: Steven Mintz and Susan Kellogg, Domestic Revolutions: A Social History of American Family Life (New York: Free Press, 1988), 51; Linda Gordon, Woman’s Body, Woman’s Right: A Social History of Birth Control in America, rev. ed. 1977 (New York: Grossman, 1976), 48. The average birthrate fell from 7.04 children in 1800 to 3.17 children in 1920.
19 birthrates fell across the board: Fass, The Damned and the Beautiful, 61.
20 Smaller families: Fass, The Damned and the Beautiful, 58–59; Howard P. Chudacoff, How Old Are You?: Age Consciousness in American Culture (Princeton: Princeton University Press, 1989), 92–116. The average household size fell from 4.7 persons in 1900 to 4.3 in 1920.
21 college enrollments … high school attendance: Fass, The Damned and the Beautiful, 124; John D’Emilio and Estelle B. Freedman, Intimate Matters: A History of Sexuality in America (Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 1997), 257.
22 the Lynds observed: Lynd and Lynd, Middletown, 211.
23 “that generation’s sex life”: Fass, The Damned and the Beautiful, 21.
24 “rather a joke”: Lynd and Lynd, Middletown, 138.
25 “petting parties”: Lynd and Lynd, Middletown, 138.
26 177 college women: Geraldine Frances Smith, “Certain Aspects of the Sex Life of the Adolescent Girl,” Journal of Abnormal Psychology (September 1924): 348–49.
27 “Girls aren’t so modest”: Lynd and Lynd, Middletown, 141.
28 Mrs. George Rose: Mary Murphy, “ ‘ … And All That Jazz’: Changing Manners and Morals in Butte After World War I,” Montana 46, no. 4 (Winter 1996): 55.
29 “A Novel About Flappers”: Promotional advertisement, FSF MS, Scrapbook II.
30 “timelessness”: FSF to Maxwell Perkins, May 11, 1922, in Andrew Turnbull, ed., The Letters of F. Scott Fitzgerald (New York: Scribner, 1963), 158.
31 “Fitzgerald, Flappers and Fame”: Smith, “Fitzgerald, Flappers and Fame,” 39, 75; “This Is What Happens to Naughty Flappers,” Detroit Free Press, undated clip [ca. 1922], FSF MS, Scrapbook III.
32 “worth hearing”: B. F. Wilson, “F. Scott Fitzgerald Says: ‘All Women Over Thirty-Five Should Be Murdered,’ ” Metropolitan Magazine 58 (November 1923): 34, 75–76, reprinted in Matthew J. Bruccoli and Judith S. Baugham, eds., Conversations with F. Scott Fitzgerald (Jackson, Miss.: University Press of Mississippi, 2004).
33 “I sometimes wonder”: “Fitzgerald and Flappers,” undated clipping [ca. 1922], unidentified Philadelphia newspaper, FSF MS, Scrapbook III.
34 “a variety of subjects”: F. Scott Fitzgerald, The Crackup (New York: New Directions, 1945), 25–27.
35 “I wish to state”: “Scott Fitzgerald Speaks at Home,” undated clip [ca. 1922], source unknown, FSF MS, Scrapbook II.
36 “flapper is growing stronger”: B. F. Wilson, “F. Scott Fitzgerald Says: ‘All Women over Thirty-Five Should Be Murdered,’ ” Metropolitan Magazine 58 (November 1923): 34, 75–76.
37 “broad moral views”: Smith, “Fitzgerald, Flappers and Fame,” 39, 75.
38 Parker’s whimsical poem: Dorothy Parker, “The Flapper,” Life, undated clip [ca. 1922], FSF MS, Scrapbook III.
1 “toploftiness”: F. Scott Fitzgerald, The Crackup (New York: New Directions, 1945), 86.
2 “all for taking a chance”: Matthew J. Bruccoli, Some Sort of Epic Grandeur: The Life of F. Scott Fitzgerald, rev. ed. 1993 (New York: Harcourt Brace Jovanovich, 1981), 119.
3 “Terms, etc.”: FSF to Maxwell Perkins, September 18, 1919, in Andrew Turnbull, ed., The Letters of F. Scott Fitzgerald (New York: Scribner, 1963), 139.
4 “summer of despair”: Fitzgerald, The Crackup, 77.
5 “mighty glad you’re coming”: ZSF to FSF, undated [October 1919], in Jackson R. Bryer and Cathy W. Barks, eds., Dear Scott, Dearest Zelda: The Love Letters of F. Scott and Zelda Fitzgerald (New York: St. Martin’s Griffin, 2002), 32–33.
6 “so be-au-ti-ful”: ZSF to FSF, undated [February 1920] in Bryer and Barks, eds., Dear Scott, Dearest Zelda, 43–44.
7 “wild, pleasure loving girl”: FSF to Isabelle Amorous, February 26, 1920, in Matthew J. Bruccoli and Margaret M. Duggan, eds., Correspondence of F. Scott Fitzgerald (New York: Random House, 1980), 53.
8 “Called on Scott Fitz”: Nancy Milford, Zelda: A Biography (New York: Harper & Row, 1970), 67.
9 “not above reproach”: FSF to Isabelle Amorous, February 26, 1920, in Correspondence of F. Scott Fitzgerald, 53.
10 “He’s going to leave”: Nathan Miller, New World Coming: The 1920s and the Making of Modern America (New York: Scribner, 2003), 211.
11 “they were the twenties”: Mayfield, Exiles, 84.
12 Between 1921 and 1924: Miller, New World Coming, 149–50. Between 1921 and 1924, America’s gross national product rose from $69 billion to $93 billion; aggregate wages rose from roughly $36.4 billion to $51.5 billion.
13 Philadelphia banking family: Irving Bernstein, The Lean Years: A History of the American Worker, 1920–1933, rev. ed. 1966 (Boston: Houghton Mifflin, 1960), 47.
14 Lynds visited Muncie: Bernstein, The Lean Years, 54–59.
15 Brookings Institution: Bernstein, The Lean Years, 63.
16 “spent your summer canning”: Robert S. Lynd and Helen Merrell Lynd, Middletown: A Study in Modern American Culture (New York: Harcourt, Brace and Co., 1929), 156–57.
17 smaller portion of their wages: Andrew Heinze, Adapting to Abundance: Jewish Immigrants, Mass Consumption and the Search for American Identity (New York: Columbia University Press, 1990), 23; Daniel Horowitz, The Morality of Spending: Attitudes Toward Consumer Society in America, 1875–1940 (Chicago: I. R. Dee, 1992), Appendix A.
18 money left over for nonessentials: Lizabeth Cohen, Making a New Deal: Industrial Workers in Chicago, 1919–1939 (New York: Cambridge University Press, 1990), 103–04; Horowitz, The Morality of Spending, chap. 7–8, Appendix A.
19 fifty million tickets: Cohen, Making a New Deal, 125.
20 tempted by credit: Miller, New World Coming, 152.
21 mah-jongg … flagpole sitting: Miller, New World Coming, 127–29.
22 cult of self-examination: William E. Leuchtenberg, The Perils of Prosperity: 1914–1932, rev. ed. (Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 1958), 164–68.
23 Emile Coué: Lynn Dumenil, Modern Temper: American Culture and Society in the 1920s (New York: Hill and Wang, 1995), 87–88.
24 Lawton Campbell strolled: Milford, Zelda, 68.
25 “not doing it for effect”: Mayfield, Exiles, 59–60.
26 basked in publicity: Mayfield, Exiles, 65.
27 “The remarkable thing”: Bruccoli, Some Sort of Epic Grandeur, 156–59.
28 Dorothy Parker: Milford, Zelda, 67.
29 Scott’s old eating club: Bruccoli, Some Sort of Epic Grandeur, 166–67.
30 “Mama and Daddy”: Mayfield, Exiles from Paradise, 58.
31 “Within a few months”: Milford, Zelda, 67.
1 average number of profiles: Leo Lowenthal, “The Triumph of Mass Idols,” in Literature, Popular Culture and Society (Englewood Cliffs, N.J.: Prentice-Hall, 1961), 111.
2 “To write it, three months”: Heywood Broun, “Books,” New-York Tribune, May 7, 1920, 14, FSF MS, Scrapbook II.
3 “prefer this sort of girl”: Smith, “Fitzgerald, Flappers and Fame,” 39, 75, reprinted in Matthew J. Bruccoli and Judith S. Baughman, eds., Conversations with F. Scott Fitzgerald (Jackson, Miss.: University Press of Mississippi, 2004), 6.
4 “I love Scott’s books”: “What a ‘Flapper Novelist’ Thinks of His Wife,” Louisville Courier-Journal, September 30, 1923, 112, reprinted in Bruccoli and Baughman, eds., Conversations, 47.
5 syndicated review of the book: “Mrs. F. Scott Fitzgerald Reviews ‘The Beautiful and Damned,’ Friend Husband’s Latest,” New-York Tribune, April 2, 1922.
6 “I’m deadly curious”: FSF to Maxwell Perkins, undated [ca. January 10, 1920], in Andrew Turnbull, ed., The Letters of F. Scott Fitzgerald (New York: Scribner, 1963), 141–42.
7“The girl is excellent”: FSF to Maxwell Perkins, ca. January 31, 1922, in Turnbull, ed., Letters, 152–53; Andrew Turnball, Scott Fitzgerald: A Biography (New York: Scribner, 1962), 130.
8 “She is quite unprincipled”: F. Scott Fitzgerald, This Side of Paradise (New York: Charles Scribner’s Sons, 1920), 170–71, 175, 181.
9 “the flapper has grown up”: “Fitzgerald’s Flapper Grows Up,” Columbus Dispatch, undated clip [ca. 1922], FSF MS, Scrapbook III.
10 “started the flapper movement”: “Family of Noted Author,” Washington Herald, undated clip [ca. 1922]; advertisement, Heart’s International, May 1923, both in FSF MS, Scrapbook III.
11 Midnight Flappers: Matthew J. Bruccoli, Some Sort of Epic Grandeur: The Life of F. Scott Fitzgerald, rev. ed. 1993 (New York: Harcourt Brace Jovanovich, 1981), 187.
12 “Eulogy on the Flapper”: Zelda Sayre Fitzgerald, “Eulogy on the Flapper,” Metropolitan Magazine, June 1922, in Matthew J. Bruccoli and Mary Gordon, eds., Zelda Fitzgerald: The Collected Writings (New York: Charles Scribner’s Sons, 1991), 39.
13 the good life: Warren I. Susman, Culture as History: The Transformation of American Society in the Twentieth Century (New York: Pantheon Books, 1984), xx–xxvi; 271–77.
14 nature of work had changed: Steven J. Diner, A Very Different Age: Americans of the Progressive Era (New York: Hill and Wang, 1998), 50–59.
15 adman coolly explained: Roland Marchand, Advertising the American Dream: Making Way for Modernity, 1920–1940 (Berkeley: University of California Press, 1985), 24.
16 “Sell them their dreams”: William Leach, Land of Desire: Merchants, Power and the Rise of a New American Culture (New York: Pantheon Books, 1993), 298.
17 “Road of Happiness”: Lynn Dumenil, Modern Temper: American Culture and Society in the 1920s (New York: Hill and Wang, 1995), 89–90.
18 “same old story”: Dumenil, Modern Temper, 89–90.
19 “Why should all life”: Nancy Milford, Zelda: A Biography (New York: Harper & Row, 1970), 27.
20 Margaret Sanger: David M. Kennedy, Birth Control in America: The Career of Margaret Sanger (New Haven: Yale University Press, 1970), 131.
21 erstwhile socialist organizer: Kennedy, Birth Control in America, 10–11.
22 “birth strike”: Ellen Chesler, Woman of Valor: Margaret Sanger and the Birth Control Movement in America (New York: Simon & Schuster, 1992), 86–88.
23 “for the enemy—Capitalism”: Kennedy, Birth Control in America, 110.
24 “love demands”: Chesler, Woman of Valor, 196–97.
25 “liberation and human development”: Chesler, Woman of Valor, 209.
26 “flirted because it was fun”: Zelda Sayre Fitzgerald, “Eulogy on the Flapper.”
27 young woman in Columbus: Paula S. Fass, The Damned and the Beautiful: American Youth in the 1920s (New York: Oxford University Press, 1977), 307.
28 “little town of Somerset”: New York Times, August 25, 1923, 7.
29 “Personal liberty”: Fass, The Damned and the Beautiful, 76.
30 Chicago Tribune’s remark: Nancy F. Cott, The Grounding of Modern Feminism (New Haven: Yale University Press, 1970), 172.
31 “personal liberties and individual rights”: Fass, The Damned and the Beautiful, 37. Italics added for emphasis.
1 Founded in 1866: Eric Foner, Reconstruction: America’s Unfinished Revolution (New York: Harper & Row, 1988), chap. 9.
2 written by the losers: Joshua Michael Zeitz, “Rebel Redemption Redux,” Dissent (Winter 2001): 70–77.
3 group of Georgians: On the Klan revival, see David M. Chalmers, Hooded Americanism: The History of the Ku Klux Klan (New York: 1965), chap. 3–4.
4 five hundred thousand women: Kathleen M. Blee, Women of the Klan: Racism and Gender in the 1920s (Berkeley, Calif.: University of California Press, 1991), 2.
5 man from Timson: Chalmers, Hooded Americanism, 39–48.
6 “straighten out our people”: Blee, Women of the Klan, 83.
7 “the revolting spectacle”: Blee, Women of the Klan, 87.
8 William Wilson: William E. Wilson, “That Long Hot Summer in Indiana,” American Heritage 16, no. 5 (May 1965): 56–64.
9 burned down dance halls: Blee, Women of the Klan, 85–86.
10 members from cities: On the character and makeup of the Ku Klux Klan in the 1920s, see Kenneth T. Jackson, The Ku Klux Klan in the City, 1915–1930 (New York: Oxford University Press, 1967), parts 1, 5.
11 Lyman Abbott: Edwin Gaustad and Leigh Schmidt, The Religious History of America (New York: Harper & Row, 2002), 304.
12 five theological “fundamentals”: On the early history of fundamentalism, see George M. Marsden, Fundamentalism and American Culture: The Shaping of Twentieth Century Evangelicalism, 1870–1925 (New York: Oxford University Press, 1980).
13 “crude beliefs and the common intelligence”: On the exchange between Bryan and Darrow, see Edward J. Larson, Summer for the Gods: The Scopes Trial and America’s Continuing Debate over Science and Religion (Cambridge, Mass.: Harvard University Press, 1997), 3–8, 187–93.
14 “age of Amen”: Larson, Summer for the Gods, 229.
1 towns outside of Chicago: Gerald E. Critoph, “The Flapper and Her Critics,” in Carol V. R. George, ed., “Remember the Ladies”: New Perspectives on Women in American History (Syracuse, N.Y.: Syracuse University Press, 1975), 153.
2 Kearney, New Jersey: Critoph, “The Flapper and Her Critics,” 154.
3 “flapper slouch”: New York Times, July 6, 1922, 8.
4 “declaration of independence”: Critoph, “The Flapper and Her Critics,” 154.
5 Mrs. Anna Mesime: New York Times, November 16, 1922, 10.
6 at least $117: New York Times, March 5, 1922, 3.
7 “Eulogy on the Flapper”: Zelda Sayre Fitzgerald, “Eulogy on the Flapper,” Metropolitan Magazine, June 1922, in Matthew J. Bruccoli and Mary Gordon, eds., Zelda Fitzgerald: The Collected Writings (New York: Charles Scribner’s Sons, 1991), 391.
8 Butte, Montana: Mary Murphy, “ ‘ … And All That Jazz’: Changing Manners and Morals in Butte After World War I,” Montana 46, no. 4 (Winter 1996): 54.
9 “a big-boned westerner”: Ben Yagoda, About Town: The New Yorker and the World It Made (New York: Scribner, 2000), 25.
10 Algonquin Hotel: Margaret Chase Harriman, The Vicious Circle: The Story of the Algonquin Round Table (New York: Rinehart, 1951), 21–22; Rian James, Dining in New York (New York: The John Day Company, 1931), 21–22.
11 highbrow discussions: Yagoda, About Town, 32.
12 Dorothy Parker: Robert E. Drennan, ed., The Algonquin Wits (New York: Citadel Press, 1968), 112–13.
13 old lady in Dubuque: Background on The New Yorker is culled from Yagoda, About Town, chap. 1–2.
1 “most dashing figure”: Brendan Gill, Here at The New Yorker (New York: Random House, 1975), 203.
2 stumbled her way: Gill, Here at The New Yorker, 203; “Lois Long” in American National Biography (New York: Oxford University Press, 1999).
3 “exceptionally well-constructed”: Dale Kramer, Ross and The New Yorker (Garden City: Doubleday, 1951), 82, 212.
4 later raised to $75: Harrison Kinney, James Thurber: His Life and Times (New York: Henry Holt and Co., 1995), 378.
5 “Drinks were a dollar twenty-five”: Kinney, James Thurber, 378–79.
6 specially fitted wire: Michael and Ariane Batterberry, On the Town in New York (New York: Scribner, 1999), 205.
7 stock exchange bell sounded: Rian James, Dining in New York (New York: The John Day Company, 1931), 227.
8 “threw up in his cab”: Kinney, James Thurber, 378–79.
9 amused her colleagues: Kramer, Ross and The New Yorker, 82–83.
10 “Lilly Daché hats”: Kennedy Fraser, Ornament and Silence: Essays on Women’s Lives (New York: Knopf, 1996), 234.
11 “the real excitement”: New Yorker, April 3, 1926, 42.
12 “HAS been a week!”: New Yorker, November 14, 1925, 25. For a description of the County Fair, see Charles G. Shaw, Nightlife (New York: The John Day Company, 1931), 84.
13 Most working women: Winifred D. Wandersee, Women’s Work and Family Values, 1920–1940 (Cambridge, Mass.: Harvard University Press, 1981), 85. Thirty percent of women in the 1920s worked as domestic servants, 19 percent as clerical workers, 18 percent as factory workers, 6 percent as store clerks, and 9 percent as farmers.
14 earned lower wages: Lynn Dumenil, Modern Temper: American Culture and Society in the 1920s (New York: Hill and Wang, 1995), 115–16. Saleswomen earned only 42 percent of what salesmen brought home.
1 $28,754.78: Matthew J. Bruccoli, Some Sort of Epic Grandeur: The Life of F. Scott Fitzgerald, rev. ed. 1993 (New York: Harcourt Brace Jovanovich, 1981), 224–25.
2 “where the $36,960 had gone”: Bruccoli, Some Sort of Epic Grandeur, 225.
3 first week in Paris: Sara Mayfield, Exiles from Paradise: Zelda and Scott Fitzgerald (New York: Delacorte Press, 1971), 94.
4 never bothered to learn anything: Bruccoli, Some Sort of Epic Grandeur, 275.
5 Upon arriving in Valescure: Nancy Milford, Zelda: A Biography (New York: Harper & Row, 1970), 106.
6 sometime after July 13: Bruccoli, Some Sort of Epic Grandeur, 230–33.
7 “terrible four-day rows”: Bruccoli, Some Sort of Epic Grandeur, 245.
8 Colony, at Sixty-first Street: Rian James, Dining in New York (New York: The John Day Company, 1931), 187–88.
9 Pirate’s Den: Stephen Graham, New York Nights (New York: George H. Doran Company, 1927), 32–33.
10 “the crowd there”: New Yorker, November 21, 1925.
11 “short, squat maiden”: New Yorker, November 14, 1925, 26; and December 18, 1926, 79.
12 “snappy little roadster”: New Yorker, November 21, 1925, 22.
13 “threw up a few times”: New Yorker, February 12, 1927.
14 “spectacular dry raids”: New Yorker, January 1, 1927, 56.
15 “it was nothing”: Harrison Kinney, James Thurber: His Life and Times (New York: Henry Holt and Co., 1995), 379.
16 “hoped we could drink”: Kinney, James Thurber, 378–79.
17 “Youth of America”: New Yorker, July 17, 1926, 47–48.
18 a new cocktail: Dale Kramer, Ross and The New Yorker (Garden City, N.Y.: Doubleday, 1951), 124.
19 “grown-up sport”: New Yorker, July 24, 1926, 38.
20 “Remedy for a dented flask”: New Yorker, July 3, 1926, 48; July 10, 1926, 48.
21 “without a corkscrew”: New Yorker, December 4, 1926, 91–92.
22 “girlish delight in barrooms”: New Yorker, September 12, 1925.
1 Charlotte Perkins Gilman: Nancy F. Cott, The Grounding of Modern Feminism (New Haven: Yale University Press, 1970), 150–52.
2 Lillian Symes: Lillian Symes, “Still a Man’s Game: Reflections of a Slightly Tired Feminist,” Harper’s Magazine 158 (May 1929): 678–79.
3 “sex rights”: Cott, The Grounding of Modern Feminism, 42–43.
4 “These Modern Women”: Elaine Showalter, ed., These Modern Women: Autobiographical Essays from the Twenties (New York: Feminist Press at the City University of New York, 1979), 5.
5 Heterodoxy: See Judith Schwartz, Radical Feminists of Heterodoxy: Greenwich Village, 1912–1940 (Norwich, Vt.: New Victoria Publishers, 1986).
6 “inquisitive and skeptical eye”: Symes, “Still a Man’s Game,” 678–79.
7 “Declaration of Sentiments”: Eleanor Flexner, Century of Struggle: The Women’s Rights Movement in the United States, rev. ed. 1975 (Cambridge, Mass.: Belknap Press of Harvard University Press, 1959), 74–75.
8 Charlotte Woodward: Flexner, Century of Struggle, 74–75.
9 “rights of every human”: Cott, The Grounding of Modern Feminism, 19. Italics added for emphasis.
10 According to prevailing wisdom: Elaine Tyler May, Great Expectations: Marriage and Divorce in Post-Victorian America (Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 1980), 17–22.
11 To many second-generation suffragists: Paula Baker, “The Domestication of Politics: Women and American Political Society, 1780–1920,” American Historical Review 89, no. 3 (June 1984): 620–47.
12 “Why Women Should Vote”: Aileen S. Kraditor, The Ideas of the Woman Suffrage Movement, 1890–1920, rev. ed. 1981 (New York: Columbia University Press, 1965), 68–69.
13 “Women’s place is Home”: William H. Chafe, The Paradox of Change: American Women in the 20th Century (New York: Oxford University Press, 1991), 15.
14 Over the preceding decade: Cott, The Grounding of Modern Feminism, 135. By 1925, sixteen states banned women from working at night; thirteen states established minimum wages for women.
15 to justify these laws: Alice Kessler-Harris, Out to Work: A History of Wage-Earning Women in the United States (New York: Oxford University Press, 1982), 186.
16 Alice Paul: Cott, The Grounding of Modern Feminism, 122.
17 Another member of the NWP: Cott, The Grounding of Modern Feminism, 124.
18 “the most important function”: Cott, The Grounding of Modern Feminism, 129.
19 “slaves to the machines of industry”: Cott, The Grounding of Modern Feminism, 134.
20 “flapper attitude”: New York Times, April 12, 1922, 5.
21 “feminists—New Style”: Dorothy Dunbar Bromley, “Feminist—New Style,” Harper’s Monthly Magazine 155 (October 1927): 552.
22 Bromley concluded: Bromley, “Feminist—New Style,” 560. Italics added for emphasis.
1 sex was on the brain: Mary Murphy, “ ‘ … And All That Jazz’: Changing Manners and Morals in Butte After World War I,” Montana, 46, no. 4 (Winter 1996): 58.
2 “tall, urbane”: New York Times, February 23, 1968, 1.
3 “fifteen and seventy-five”: New York Times, February 23, 1968, 1.
4 “Maybe we began drinking”: Harrison Kinney, James Thurber: His Life and Times (New York: Henry Holt and Co., 1995), 380.
5 “I just learned”: Harold Ross to Lois Long, May 16, 1930, The New Yorker Records, New York Public Library, Box 6, Lois Long Folder.
6 “Zelda Fitzgerald figure”: Kennedy Fraser, Ornament and Silence: Essays on Women’s Lives (New York: Knopf, 1996), 234.
7 Their marriage announcement: James Thurber, The Years with Ross (New York: Little Brown and Co., 1957), 26–27.
8 a Packard: New York Times, November 30, 1929, 20.
9 “All we were saying”: Kinney, James Thurber, 380.
10 nationwide alcohol consumption: David E. Kyvig, Daily Life in the United States, 1920–1940 (Chicago: Ivan R. Dee, 2002), 24.
11 three-quarters of all college-age men: Paula S. Fass, The Damned and the Beautiful: American Youth in the 1920s (New York: Oxford University Press, 1977), 275–77.
12 “Imagine yourself kissed”: Caroline Smith-Rosenberg, “The Female World of Love and Ritual: Relations Between Women in Nineteenth-Century America,” in Disorderly Conduct: Visions of Gender in Victorian America (New York: Knopf, 1985), 57.
13 “my girl of all the girls”: Smith-Rosenberg, “The Female World of Love and Ritual,” 58.
14 “When a Vassar girl”: John D’Emilio and Estelle B. Freedman, Intimate Matters: A History of Sexuality in America (Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 1988), 126.
15 1870s to the 1920s: Caroline Smith-Rosenberg, “The New Woman as Androgynye: Social Disorder and Gender Crisis, 1870–1936,” in Disorderly Conduct, 253.
16 Boston marriages: Smith-Rosenberg, “The New Woman as Androgynye,” 254.
17 Bryn Mawr College: Smith-Rosenberg, “The New Woman as Androgynye,” 281.
18 women in 1890: Fass, The Damned and the Beautiful, 66.
19 gay subcultures: John D’Emilio, “Capitalism and Gay Identity,” in Ann Snitow, Christine Stansell, and Sharon Thompson, eds., Powers of Desire: The Politics of Sexuality (New York: Monthly Review Press, 1983), 100–13.
20 “Protestant Westerners”: Kinney, James Thurber, 379–80.
21 “lingerie shortage in this country”: New Yorker, November 14, 1925, 24.
22 “Turn about”: New Yorker, October 19, 1925, 28–29.
23 “perennial Greenwich Village Inn”: New Yorker, August 1, 1925, 20.
24 “Without being flapper”: New Yorker, November 21, 1925, 22.
1 rambling town house: Axel Masden, Chanel: A Woman of Her Own (New York: Henry Holt, 1990), 128.
2 “at the farthest corner”: Marcel Hadrich, Coco Chanel: Her Life, Her Secrets (Boston: Little, Brown, 1971), 25.
3 “I told myself”: Masden, Chanel, 8.
4 “little prisoner”: Hadrich, Coco Chanel, 28.
5 “concerned with independence”: Hadrich, Coco Chanel, 33.
6 “I—who never told the truth”: Masden, Chanel, 4.
7 “mind was full of fabulations”: Masden, Chanel, 19.
8 “I invited the chambermaid”: Hadrich, Coco Chanel, 65.
9 “reading cheap novels”: Masden, Chanel, 40.
10 “didn’t know anything”: Masden, Chanel, 39.
11 “Forgive me”: Hadrich, Coco Chanel, 75–79.
12 “I was just a kid”: Hadrich, Coco Chanel, 78.
13 “It was very complicated”: Hadrich, Coco Chanel, 79–80.
14 “Two gentlemen”: “Fashioning the Modern Woman: The Art of Couturiere, 1919–1939,” The Museum at FIT, exhibition pamphlet, February 10, 2004, to April 10, 2004.
1 The feminine aesthetic: Caroline Rennolds Milbank, New York Fashion: The Evolution of American Style (New York: Abrams, 1989), 35–45.
2 the daily torment: Kate Mulvey, Decades of Beauty: The Changing Image of Women, 1890s–1990s (New York: Checkmark Books, 1998), 41.
3 English magazine correspondent: Helene E. Roberts, “The Exquisite Slave: The Role of Clothes in the Making of the Victorian Woman,” Signs: Journal of Women in Culture and Society 2, no. 3 (Spring 1977): 561. The case study is drawn from Victorian England but is representative of corseting in the United States.
4 study of fifty women: Roberts, “The Exquisite Slave,” 561–62.
5 “ever present monitor”: Roberts, “The Exquisite Slave,” 564–65.
6 “No one but a woman”: Roberts, “The Exquisite Slave,” 557.
7 “Take what precautions”: Roberts, “The Exquisite Slave,” 556.
8 J. Marion Sims: Charles Sellers, Market Revolution: Jacksonian America, 1815–1846 (New York: Oxford University Press, 1991), 256–57.
9 “The corset-curse”: Jenna Weissman Joselit, A Perfect Fit: Clothes, Character and the Promise of America (New York: Metropolitan Books, 2001), 49–50.
10 Stanton put the matter: Paula Welch, “The Relationship of the Women’s Rights Movement to Women’s Sport and Physical Education in the United States, 1848–1920,” Proteus 3, no. 1 (1986): 36.
11 “We only wore it”: Joselit, A Perfect Fit, 46.
12 “ladies of irreproachable character”: Welch, “The Relationship of the Women’s Rights Movement to Women’s Sport,” 36.
13 “popular rise of sports”: John Higham, “The Reorientation of American Culture in the 1890s,” in John Weiss, ed., The Origins of Modern Consciousness (Detroit: Wayne State University Press, 1965), 25–28.
14 “athletic kind of girl!”: Higham, “The Reorientation of American Culture,” 30–31.
15 “To men, rich and poor”: Welch, “The Relationship of the Women’s Rights Movement to Women’s Sport,” 37.
16 Dr. Edward Clarke: Margaret A. Lowe, Looking Good: College Women and Body Image, 1875–1930 (Baltimore: Johns Hopkins University Press, 2003), 2.
17 “day’s tramp”: Lowe, Looking Good, 47–49.
18 “the biggest day”: Lowe, Looking Good, 49.
19 “no skirts at all”: Lowe, Looking Good, 48.
1 “King of Fashion”: Paul Poiret, My First Fifty Years (London: V. Gollancz, 1931), 285.
2 “Parisian of Paris”: Poiret, My First Fifty Years, 11–12.
3 “Women and their toilettes”: Poiret, My First Fifty Years, 19.
4 “smash my pride”: Poiret, My First Fifty Years, 25.
5 Four hundred copies: Poiret, My First Fifty Years, 27, 36.
6 “The women wore them”: Poiret, My First Fifty Years, 43.
7 “Young man, you know”: Poiret, My First Fifty Years, 61.
8 “You call that a dress?”: Poiret, My First Fifty Years, 63.
9 clothing for the New Woman: Amy De La Haye and Shelley Tobin, Chanel: The Couturiere at Work (Woodstock, N.Y.: The Overlook Press, 1996), 13; Sandra Ley, Fashion for Everyone: The Story of Ready-to-Wear (New York: Scribner, 1975), 53–55.
10 “I waged war upon it”: Poiret, My First Fifty Years, 73.
11 “shackled the legs”: Poiret, My First Fifty Years, 73.
12 “despotism of fashion”: Poiret, My First Fifty Years, 290.
13 supreme derision: Poiret, My First Fifty Years, 146–47.
14 “made for each other”: Axel Masden, Chanel: A Woman of Her Own (New York: Henry Holt, 1990), 55.
15 “Chanel frock was born”: Masden, Chanel: A Woman of Her Own, 69; Marcel Hadrich, Coco Chanel: Her Life, Her Secrets (Boston: Little, Brown, 1971), 90.
16 “let go of the waistline”: Masden, Chanel, 78.
17 Harper’s Bazaar: De La Haye and Tobin, Chanel, 20.
18 “leading the way”: New York Times, April 23, 1916, X2.
19 Marie Louise-Deray: Masden, Chanel, 80.
20 “Let them take lovers”: De La Haye and Tobin, Chanel, 19.
21 “flapper uniform”: Bruce Bliven, “Flapper Jane,” New Republic, September 9, 1925.
22 “feminized tweeds”: New Yorker, November 7, 1925, 28.
23 masculine influences: De La Haye and Tobin, Chanel, 42.
24 “misérabilisme de luxe”: Masden, Chanel, 116–17.
25 Parisian law student: Valerie Steele, Paris Fashion: A Cultural History (New York: Berg Publishers, 1998), 256.
26 “Oriental” or “primitive” themes: Elaine Porter, “Women’s Fashions in 1920s America,” unpublished BA dissertation, Cambridge University, Spring 2005, 9–16.
27 “hemline moveth slowly”: Washington Post, July 12, 1925, SM4.
28 DISPLAY OF SPRING FASHIONS: New York Times, January 22, 1927, 15.
29 A Baptist pastor: Jenna Weissman Joselit, A Perfect Fit: Clothes, Character and the Promise of America (New York: Metropolitan Books, 2001), 66.
30 “adjust length to becomingness”: Joselit, A Perfect Fit, 60.
31 “yearly cry”: New Yorker, October 10, 1925, 32.
1 “The whole position”: Eleanor Goodman and Jean Nerenberg, “Everywoman’s Jewelry: Early Plastics and Equality in Fashion,” Journal of Popular Culture 13, no. 4 (Spring 1980): 632–33.
2 Alexander Hamilton: Stewart and Elizabeth Ewen, Channels of Desire: Mass Images and the Shaping of American Consciousness (New York: McGraw Hill Publishers, 1982), 160.
3 status quo changed slowly: Ewen and Ewen, Channels of Desire, 166–67.
4 Ellen Curtis Demorest: Milbank, New York Fashion: The Evolution of American Style (New York: Abrams, 1989), 18.
5 “A sketch is given”: Rob Schorman, Selling Style: Clothing and Social Change at the Turn of the Century (Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 2003), 53–54.
6 over six yards of forty-eight-inch fabric: Jane Farrell-Beck and Joyce Starr-Johnson, “Remodeling and Renovating Clothes, 1870–1933,” Dress 19 (1992): 39.
7 under three yards of fifty-four-inch wool: Farrell-Beck and Starr-Johnson, “Remodeling and Renovating Clothes,” 43. Between 1870 and 1929, annual sales of factory-made women’s clothes jumped from $12.9 million to $1.6 billion—roughly equivalent to $17.5 billion in current-day money.
8 “The winter openings”: New Yorker, August 28, 1926, 44–46.
9 “Fashion does not exist”: Amy De La Haye and Shelley Tobin, Chanel: The Couturiere at Work (New York: Overlook Press, 1994), 54.
10 Madame Doret: De La Haye and Tobin, Chanel, 54–55.
11 “ ‘Chanel’ Rhinestone Bags”: New York Times, December 23, 1927, 7.
12 “copies of Patou”: New York Times, November 28, 1926, 15.
13 “Paris hats … so exact”: New Yorker, March 12, 1927, 7.
14 even farm girls: Jenna Weissman Joselit, A Perfect Fit: Clothes, Character and the Promise of America (New York: Metropolitan Books, 2001), 22.
15 Rural free delivery and parcel post: Thomas Schlereth, “Country Stores, County Fairs and Mail-Order Catalogues: Consumption in Rural America,” in Simon J. Bronner, ed., Consuming Visions: Accumulation and Display of Goods in America, 1880–1920 (New York: Norton, 1989), 342–45, 349.
16 “on time”: Ewen and Ewen, Channels of Desire, 65.
17 as little as $8.98: Stella Blum, ed., Everyday Fashions of the Twenties: As Pictures in Sears and Other Catalogs (New York: Dover Publications, 1981).
18 cheap imitation jewelry: Eleanor Gordon and Jean Nerenberg, “Everywoman’s Jewelry: Early Plastics and Equality in Fashion,” Journal of Popular Culture (Spring 1980): 629–44.
19 “Heinz pickle jars”: New Yorker, March 6, 1926, 41.
20 parlor maid and the debutante: Goodman and Nerenberg, “Everywoman’s Jewelry,” 633.
21 “one big shop exclusively”: New Yorker, September 18, 1926, 54.
22 “It is most annoying”: New Yorker, April 3, 1926, 34.
23 “a second clue”: Robert S. Lynd and Helen Merrell Lynd, Middletown: A Study in Modern American Culture (New York: Harcourt, Brace and Company, 1929), 161.
24 “Only a connoisseur”: Ewen and Ewen, Channels of Desire, 177.
25 “Riverside Drive or East 4th Street”: Ewen and Ewen, Channels of Desire, 181.
26 Jane Addams: Joselit, A Perfect Fit, 39.
27 “Let them copy”: Joseph Barry, “ ‘I Am on the Side of Women,’ Said My Friend Chanel,” Smithsonian (1971) 2, no. 2: 30.
28 “Thanks to me”: Marcel Hadrich, Coco Chanel: Her Life, Her Secrets (Boston: Little, Brown, 1971), 119.
29 “socialized into an average”: Loren H. B. Knox, “Our Lost Individuality,” Atlantic Monthly (Dec. 1909), 820.
30 “torches of freedom”: Stewart Ewen, Captains of Consciousness: Advertising and the Social Roots of the Consumer Culture, rev. ed. 2001 (New York: 1976), 160–61.
31 prominent advertising guru: Ewen, Captains of Consciousness, 31.
1 “Fisher Body Girl”: Roland Marchand, Advertising the American Dream: Making Way for Modernity, 1920–1940 (Berkeley, Calif.: University of California Press, 1985), 180.
2 curious publishing phenomena: Richard M. Fried, “Introduction,” in Bruce Barton, The Man Nobody Knows, rev. ed. (Chicago: I.R. Dee, 2000; Indianapolis: Bobbs-Merrill, 1925), vii–x.
3 he urged readers: T. J. Jackson Lears, “From Salvation to Self-Realization: Advertising and the Therapeutic Roots of the Consumer Culture, 1880–1930,” in T. J. Jackson Lears and Richard Wightman Fox, The Culture of Consumption: Critical Essays in American History, 1880–1980 (New York: Pantheon Books, 1983), 32.
4 “the great advertiser”: Barton, The Man Nobody Knows, 60, 65–72.
5 As recently as the 1890s: Stephen Fox, The Mirror Makers: A History of American Advertising and Its Creators (New York: Morrow, 1984), chap. 1.
6 “goods must be moved”: Susan Strasser, Satisfaction Guaranteed: The Making of the American Mass Market (New York: Pantheon Books, 1989), 22–25.
7 “Without imagination”: William Leach, Land of Desire: Merchants, Power and the Rise of a New American Culture (New York: Pantheon Books, 1993), 36–37.
8 Nashville Ad Club: Strasser, Satisfaction Guaranteed, 27.
9 typical advertising expert: Rob Schorman, Selling Style: Clothing and Social Change at the Turn of the Century (Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 2003), 144.
10 Helen Woodward: Stewart Ewen, Captains of Consciousness: Advertising and the Social Roots of the Consumer Culture, rev. ed. 2001 (New York: McGraw-Hill, 1976), 86.
11 “feel life intensely”: Lears, “From Salvation to Self-Realization,” 15. Italics added for emphasis.
12 “let yourself go”: Robert S. Lynd and Helen Merrell Lynd, Middletown: A Study in Modern American Culture (New York: Harcourt, Brace and Company, 1929), 265.
13 Denys Thompson: Ewen, Captains of Consciousness, 87.
14 “Joan Crawford Hats”: Stella Blum, ed., Everyday Fashions of the Twenties: As Pictures in Sears and Other Catalogs (New York: Dover Publications, 1981), 95, 127.
15 American Tobacco Company: Strasser, Satisfaction Guaranteed, 47.
16 grocers in Chicago: L. R. Geissler, “Association-Reactions Applied to Ideas of Commercial Brands of Familiar Articles,” Journal of Applied Psychology 1 (September 1917): 218.
17 invention of modern photography: Neil Harris, “Iconography and Intellectual History: The Halftone Effect,” in Neil Harris, Cultural Excursions: Marketing Appetites and Cultural Tastes in Modern America (Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 1990), 304–17.
18 new printing techniques: Richard Ohmann, “Where Did Mass Culture Come From?: The Case for Magazines,” Berkshire Review 16 (1981): 99–100.
19 Laura Ingalls Wilder: Ellen Gruber Garvey, The Adman in the Parlor: Magazines and the Gendering of Consumer Culture, 1880s to 1910s (New York: Oxford University Press, 1996), 21.
20 remote mountain towns: Edward L. Ayers, The Promise of the New South: Life After Reconstruction (New York: Oxford University Press, 1992), 99–100.
21 Artemas Ward: Leach, Land of Desire, 43–45.
22 annual consumer advertising: Vincent Vinikas, Soft Soap, Hard Sell: American Hygiene in an Age of Advertisement (Ames, Iowa: Iowa State University Press, 1992), 34.
23 magazine circulation: Vinikas, Soft Soap, Hard Sell, 9–13; Richard Ohmann, “Where Did Mass Culture Come From?” 85–90. The most popular magazines reached between 10 percent and 50 percent of middle-class homes, but only 5 percent of working-class homes.
24 one-third of all magazine ad revenues: Mary Ellen Waller-Zuckerman, “ ‘Old Homes, in a City of Perpetual Change’: Women’s Magazines, 1890–1916,” Business History Review 63, no. 4 (Winter 1989): 726–35; Vinikas, Soft Soap, Hard Sell, 98.
1 “10,000,000 housewives”: Raye Virginia Allen, Gordon Conway: Fashioning a New Woman (Austin, Tex.: University of Texas Press, 1997), ix.
2 “as graceful as a fawn”: Allen, Gordon Conway, 20.
3 recorded her thoughts: Allen, Gordon Conway, 23.
4 John Held: see Shelley Armitage, John Held, Jr.: Illustrator of the Jazz Age (Syracuse, N.Y.: Syracuse University Press, 1987).
5 “no method”: Armitage, John Held, 19.
6 “two kinds of crackers”: Margaret A. Lowe, “From Robust Appetites to Calorie Counting: The Emergence of Dieting Among Smith College Students in the 1920s,” Journal of Women’s History 7, no. 4 (Winter 1995): 39–40.
7 “Don’t consider it necessary”: Lowe, “From Robust Appetites to Calorie Counting,” 40.
8 TO DIET OR NOT: Lowe, “From Robust Appetites to Calorie Counting,” 36.
9 “most of the Negro girls”: New Yorker, December 12, 1925, 51.
10 “The entertainer there”: New Yorker, December 12, 1925, 52.
11 “the REAL Charleston”: New Yorker, December 26, 1925, 32–33.
12 The same message: Grace Elizabeth Hale, “ ‘For Colored’ and ‘For White’: Segregating Consumption in the South,” in Jane Dailey, Glenda Elizabeth Gilmore, and Bryant Simon, eds., Jumpin’ Jim Crow: Southern Politics from Civil War to Civil Rights (Princeton: Princeton University Press, 2000), 162–82; David Nasaw, Going Out: The Rise and Fall of Public Amusements (New York: Basic Books, 1993), 93, 80–95.
1 seconded by Walter Lippmann: Stuart Ewen, PR!: A Social History of Spin (New York: Basic Books, 1996), 65–75, 106–08.
2 CPI: Ewen, PR!, 106–08; David M. Kennedy, Over Here: The First World War and American Society (New York: Oxford University Press, 1980), 59–78.
3 Typical CPI posters: Ewen, PR!, 115–17.
4 “power of propaganda”: Ewen, PR!, 131.
5 George Phelps: Stewart Ewen, Captains of Consciousness: Advertising and the Social Roots of the Consumer Culture, rev. ed. 2001 (New York: McGraw-Hill, 1976), 83.
6 Ivy Lee: Ewen, PR!, 132.
7 “Mass psychology”: Ewen, Captains of Consciousness, 83–84.
8 “governed by reason”: Ewen, PR!, 138.
9 “Critical eyes”: Roland Marchand, Advertising the American Dream: Making Way for Modernity, 1920–1940 (Berkeley, Calif.: University of California Press, 1985), 213.
10 “It ruins romance”: Vincent Vinikas, Soft Soap, Hard Sell: American Hygiene in an Age of Advertisement (Ames, Iowa: Iowa State University Press, 1992), 32.
11 “You will be amazed”: Ewen, Captains of Consciousness, 38.
12 “Once a bridesmaid”: Ewen, Captains of Consciousness, 44.
13 “A few years ago”: Vinikas, Soft Soap, Hard Sell, 28–30.
14 annual sales of toiletries: Vinikas, Soft Soap, Hard Sell, xii; Kathy Peiss, Hope in a Jar: The Making of America’s Beauty Culture (New York: Metropolitan Books, 1998), 97.
15 Magazine ads: Peiss, Hope in a Jar, 142, 184.
16 cloudy representations: Peiss, Hope in a Jar, 45.
17 Hangtown Gals: Peiss, Hope in a Jar, 27.
18 “a perfectly transparent character”: Karen Halttunen, Confidence Men and Painted Women: A Study of Middle-Class Culture in America, 1836–1870 (New Haven: Yale University Press, 1982), 52.
19 “the skin’s power”: Halttunen, Confidence Men and Painted Women, 63, 88.
20 “The mask of fashion”: Halttunen, Confidence Men and Painted Women, 66.
21 “as others see you”: Peiss, Hope in a Jar, 144.
22 Vogue’s Book of Beauty: Peiss, Hope in a Jar, 155–56.
23 Ingram’s Milkwood Cream: Peiss, Hope in a Jar, 155–56.
24 industry analysts claimed: Peiss, Hope in a Jar, 123–24, 168–73, 186, 190; Vincent Vinikas, Soft Soap, Hard Sell, 59.
25 “appearances count”: Rob Schorman, Selling Style: Clothing and Social Change at the Turn of the Century (Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 2003), 137.
26 “innocent yet men talked”: Peiss, Hope in a Jar, 155.
27 Dorothy Dix warning: Robert S. Lynd and Helen Merrell Lynd, Middletown: A Study in Modern American Culture (New York: Harcourt, Brace and Company, 1929), 162
28 “dresses girls wear”: Lynd and Lynd, Middletown, 162
29 budget of $1,363: Lynd and Lynd, Middletown, 163.
30 Lynds recognized: Lynd and Lynd, Middletown, 164–65.
1 “Intriguingly risqué”: Film Review of Flaming Youth, undated [ca. 1923], Margaret Herrick Library, Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences, Los Angeles, Colleen Moore Scrapbook #2.
2 “the way Scott Fitzgerald writes”: New York Exhibitors’ Trade Review, December 1, 1923, Colleen Moore Scrapbook #2.
3 “so carried away”: Colleen Moore, Silent Star (Garden City, New York: Doubleday, 1968), 16–18.
4 Lucky for Kathleen Morrison: Moore, Silent Star, 11–18.
5 “Dear baby”: Moore, Silent Star, 24–25.
6 “gained a new movie star”: Moore, Silent Star, 26; “ ‘The Close-Up’: Colleen Moore,” undated clipping [ca. 1927], source unknown, Colleen Moore Clippings File, Margaret Herrick Library, Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences, Beverly Hills [hereafter CM Clippings].
7 standing five feet three and three-quarter inches: Biographical information, Goldwyn Pictures Corporation of New York, August 11, 1921, CM Clippings.
8 “Papa, what is beer?”: Moore, Silent Star, 43.
9 motley assortment of characters: Moore, Silent Star, 50.
10 “I was the spark”: “Colleen Moore: The Original Flapper in Bel-Air,” Architectural Digest (April 1996): 216–21, 294.
1 first two decades: On early film, see Robert Sklar, Movie-Made America: A Cultural History of American Movies (New York: Random House, 1975).
2 The Birth of a Nation: Larry May, Screening Out the Past: The Birth of Mass Culture and the Motion Picture Industry (Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 1980), 76.
3 “taint of scandal”: May, Screening Out the Past, 75–76.
4 “a great beauty doctor”: May, Screening Out the Past, 75.
5 Early movies: Leslie Fishbein, “The Demise of the Cult of True Womanhood in Early American Film, 1900–1930,” Journal of Popular Film and Television 12, no. 2 (Summer 1984): 68.
6 Linda Arvidson Griffith: Mary P. Ryan, “The Projection of a New Womanhood: The Movie Moderns in the 1920s,” in Jean E. Friedman and William G. Shade, eds., Our American Sisters: Women in American Life and Thought (Lexington, Mass.: D. C. Heath, 1976), 502.
7 Irving Thalberg: May, Screening Out the Past, 200.
8 Mary Pickford: May, Screening Out the Past, 125–26.
9 Samuel Goldwyn: May, Screening Out the Past, 171.
1 “define the title”: Sara Ross, “Banking the Flames of Youth: The Hollywood Flapper, 1920–1930,” unpublished PhD, dissertation, University of Wisconsin–Madison, 2000, 48.
2 “wickedest face”: Mary P. Ryan, “The Projection of a New Womanhood: The Movie Moderns in the 1920s,” in Jean E. Friedman and William G. Shade, eds., Our American Sisters: Women in American Life and Thought (Lexington, Mass.: D. C. Heath, 1976), 502.
3 “apostle of domesticity”: Leslie Fishbein, “The Demise of the Cult of True Womanhood in Early American Film, 1900–1930,” Journal of Popular Film and Television 12, no. 2 (Summer 1984): 67–68.
4 The Flapper: Ross, “Banking the Flames of Youth,” 66.
5 “looks the part”: Untitled photo caption, Photoplay Magazine (Chicago), March 1924, Colleen Moore Scrapbook #2.
6 “very apotheosis”: “Daily Movie Review,” Muskegon (Mich.) Chronicle, January 21, 1924, Colleen Moore Scrapbook #2.
7 “brilliant young flapper”: “Player with ‘Sex Appeal’ Is Like a Rocket,” Unknown Source (New Orleans), June 15, 1924, Colleen Moore Scrapbook #11.
8 “kind of girl the fellows want”: “How Girls Should Act Told by Screen Star,” Screen News, Sacramento, March 8, 1924, Colleen Moore Scrapbook #2.
9 “It’s such fun”: “ ‘I Love to Ask My Husband for Money,’ Says Colleen Moore,” Movie Weekly, undated, Colleen Moore Scrapbook #11.
10 “Nobody wanted me”: David Stein, Clara Bow: Runnin’ Wild (New York: Doubleday, 1988), 5.
11 Sands Street in Brooklyn: Stein, Clara Bow: Runnin’ Wild, 8.
12 “I have known hunger”: Stein, Clara Bow: Runnin’ Wild, 11.
13 “worst-lookin’ kid”: Stein, Clara Bow: Runnin’ Wild, 11–12.
14 Bennett would live to eat his words: On Clara Bow’s early years in film, see Stein, Clara Bow: Runnin’ Wild.
15 “the only time”: Colleen Moore, Silent Star (New York: Doubleday, 1968), 147–48.
16 “We all loved her”: Stein, Clara Bow: Runnin’ Wild, 50.
17 “Golly, Mr. Schulberg”: Budd Schulberg, Moving Pictures: Memories of a Hollywood Prince (New York: Stein and Day, 1981), 157–66.
18 “I liked her”: Stein, Clara Bow: Runnin’ Wild, 43.
19 “an easy winner”: Schulberg, Moving Pictures, 158.
20 Sam Jaffe: Stein, Clara Bow: Runnin’ Wild, 51.
21 easy to dismiss: Jeanine Basinger, Silent Stars (New York: Knopf, 1999), 411–50.
22 “She has eyes”: Stein, Clara Bow: Runnin’ Wild, 55.
23 Clarence Badger: Stein, Clara Bow: Runnin’ Wild, 83.
24 “It, hell”: Stein, Clara Bow: Runnin’ Wild, 81.
25 $5,000 per week: Stein, Clara Bow: Runnin’ Wild, 71.
1 “drink and fuck”: Ann Douglas, Terrible Honesty: Mongrel Manhattan in the 1920s (New York: Farrar, Straus, and Giroux, 1995), 48.
2 “modest 10 a year”: Louise Brooks to Tom Dardis, October 26, 1977, Louise Brooks Vertical File, Margaret Herrick Library, Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences, Beverly Hills [hereafter LB Vertical File].
3 “either a fool”: Barry Paris, Louise Brooks: A Biography (New York: Knopf, 1989), 5.
4 “fourteen-room gray frame”: Louise Brooks, Lulu in Hollywood (New York: Knopf, 1982), 9.
5 “ ‘How dare she?’ ”: Paris, Louise Brooks, 89.
6 Mr. Flowers: Louise Brooks to Tom Dardis, November 14, 1977, LB Vertical File.
7 “first curious raptures”: Paris, Louise Brooks, 4.
8 “Now, dear”: Brooks, Lulu in Hollywood, 7.
9 “bespectacled housewife”: Paris, Louise Brooks, 28–31.
10 “Even in the ballet”: Brooks, Lulu in Hollywood, 9.
11 “my Kansas accent”: Brooks, Lulu in Hollywood, 10–14.
12 “very flirty in the hotels”: Paris, Louise Brooks, 53–54.
13 Algonquin Hotel: Paris, Louise Brooks, 70.
14 “How old are you”: Brooks, Lulu in Hollywood, 15.
15 Follies girl: Paris, Louise Brooks, 72.
16 Over one weekend: Paris, Louise Brooks, 108–09.
17 “Scott Fitzgerald’s mind”: Paris, Louise Brooks, 136.
18 San Simeon: Brooks, Lulu in Hollywood, 39–41.
1 “All their lives”: Larry May, Screening Out the Past: The Birth of Mass Culture and the Motion Picture Industry (Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 1980), 166.
2 “No romance”: Heather Addison, “Hollywood and the Reducing Craze of the 1920s,” unpublished PhD dissertation, University of Kansas, 2001, 67.
3 “In the strange place”: Addison, “Hollywood and the Reducing Craze,” 75.
4 “They build the swimming pools”: Addison, “Hollywood and the Reducing Craze,” 76.
5 “splurged on homes”: “Colleen Moore: The Original Flapper in Bel-Air,” Architectural Digest (April 1996): 216–21, 294.
6 It was exotic: May, Screening Out the Past, 188–89.
7 “a paradise”: May, Screening Out the Past, 185.
8 “just wild about you”: Martha Meadows to Clara Bow, October 20, 1926, Clara Bow Letters, Margaret Herrick Library, Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences, Beverly Hills [hereafter CB Letters].
9 “you naughty girl”: Connie Romero to Clara Bow, 1926, CB Letters.
10 “mad about your eyes”: Audrey Ashuru to Clara Bow, undated, CB Letters.
11 “watching the actions”: Garth S. Jowett, Ian C. Jarvie, and Kathryn H. Fuller, eds., Children and the Movies: Media Influence and the Payne Fund Controversy (New York: Cambridge University Press, 1996), 254.
12 “considerable … attention”: Jowett, Jarvie, and Fuller, eds., Children and the Movies, 279.
13 high school junior confessed: Jowett, Jarvie, and Fuller, eds., Children and the Movies, 288.
14 study of delinquent girls: Peiss, Hope in a Jar: The Making of America’s Beauty Culture (New York: Metropolitan Books, 1998), 191.
15 “No wonder”: Jowett, Jarvie, and Fuller, eds., Children and the Movies, 276.
16 “I saw Rudolph Valentino”: Jowett, Jarvie, and Fuller, eds., Children and the Movies, 247.
17 “Oh, what a life!”: Jowett, Jarvie, and Fuller, eds., Children and the Movies, 274.
18 Dorothy Dushkin: Margaret A. Lowe, “From Robust Appetites to Calorie Counting: The Emergence of Dieting Among Smith College Students in the 1920s,” Journal of Women’s History 7, no. 4 (Winter 1995): 241.
19 those who read the fan magazines: Addison, “Hollywood and the Reducing Craze of the 1920s,” 232–34.
20 “thought Clara too plump”: Untitled review, [Chicago] American, undated, Clara Bow Notebooks, Margaret Herrick Library, Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences, Beverly Hills [hereafter CB Notebooks].
21 “Diet!”: Addison, “Hollywood and the Reducing Craze of the 1920s,” 59.
22 “Hollywood Eighteen-Day Diet”: Addison, “Hollywood and the Reducing Craze of the 1920s,” 78.
23 “The slim figure”: Addison, “Hollywood and the Reducing Craze of the 1920s,” 26.
24 “ ‘easy to be slender’ ”: “Fashions & Fancies in Filmland,” Picture Show, April 19, 1924, Colleen Moore Scrapbook #11.
25 “What It Costs”: Scott Pierce, “What It Costs to Be a Well-Dressed Flapper,” undated news clipping [ca. 1920s], Clara Bow Clippings File.
26 Colleen Moore perfume: “Colleen Moore to Distribute Perfume,” Los Angeles Express, July 19, 1923, Colleen Moore Scrapbook #2.
27 Adele Hernández Milligan: Vicki L. Ruiz, “Star Struck: Acculturation, Adolescence, and Mexican American Women, 1920–1950,” in Elliot West and Paula Petrik, eds., Small Worlds: Children & Adolescents in America, 1850–1950 (Lawrence, Kans.: University Press of Kansas, 1992), 67.
28 Chinese flapper: Judy Yung, “ ‘It’s Hard to Be Born a Woman but Hopeless to Be Born a Chinese’: The Life and Times of Flora Belle Jan,” Frontiers 18, no. 3 (1997): 66–91.
1 “Ernest could be brutal”: Nancy Milford, Zelda: A Biography (New York: Harper and Row, 1970), 117.
2 Dingo Bar: Ernest Hemingway, A Moveable Feast (New York: Scribner, 1964), 150.
3 Carl Van Vechten: Milford, Zelda, 98.
4 in for a surprise: Hemingway, A Moveable Feast, 151.
5 “dirty singlet”: Sara Mayfield, Exiles from Paradise: Zelda and Scott Fitzgerald (New York: Delacorte Press, 1971), 91.
6 Lalique turtle: Mayfield, Exiles, 106.
7 $25,000: Matthew J. Bruccoli, Some Sort of Epic Grandeur: The Life of F. Scott Fitzgerald, rev. ed. 1993 (New York: Harcourt Brace & Jovanovich, 1981), 288.
8 Gertrude Stein: Gertrude Stein to FSF, May 22, 1925 in Matthew J. Bruccoli and Margaret M. Duggan, eds., Correspondence of F. Scott Fitzgerald (New York: Random House, 1980), 164.
9 cavorting with the likes of: FSF to Ernest Hemingway, November 30, 1925, in Matthew J. Bruccoli, ed., F. Scott Fitzgerald: A Life in Letters (New York: Scribner, 1994), 130.
10 James Thurber and William Shirer: Bruccoli, Some Sort of Epic Grandeur, 276–77.
11 James Joyce: Bruccoli, Some Sort of Epic Grandeur, 311; Mayfield, Exiles, 135.
12 the destructive side: Mayfield, Exiles, 115.
13 grabbed the wheel: Mayfield, Exiles from Paradise, 115–16.
14 “inconvenient friends”: Milford, Zelda, 115.
15 “I was quite ashamed”: FSF to EH, November 30, 1925, in Bruccoli, ed., F. Scott Fitzgerald: A Life in Letters, 130.
16 “phony as a rubber check”: James R. Mellow, Invented Lives: F. Scott & Zelda Fitzgerald (New York: Houghton Mifflin Company, 1984), 241.
17 “bullfighting, bullslinging”: Mayfield, Exiles, 112.
18 “well-laundered”: Mellow, Invented Lives, 202.
19 “depressing … about a country”: Milford, Zelda, 105.
20 “everybody was so young”: Milford, Zelda, 105.
21 fourteen-room Moorish villa: Mellow, Invented Lives, 253.
22 “Most people are dull”: Gerald Murphy to FSF and ZSF, September 19, 1925, in Bruccoli and Duggan, eds., Correspondence of F. Scott Fitzgerald, 178.
23 “could write and didn’t”: Mayfield, Exiles, 113.
24 reckless high dives: Bruccoli, Some Sort of Epic Grandeur, 296.
25 “no fun here anymore”: Mayfield, Exiles, 132.
26 Juan-les-Pins casino: Bruccoli, Some Sort of Epic Grandeur, 295.
27 “pay and pay and pay”: FSF to Ernest Hemingway, September 9, 1929, in Bruccoli, ed., F. Scott Fitzgerald: A Life in Letters, 168–69.
28 “sparkle had gone”: Mayfield, Exiles, 131.
29 “Zelda could be spooky”: Milford, Zelda, 124.
30 “What Becomes of Our Flappers”: F. Scott and Zelda Fitzgerald, “What Becomes of Our Flappers and Our Sheiks?” McCall’s, October 1925, reprinted in Matthew J. Bruccoli and Mary Gordon, eds., Zelda Fitzgerald: The Collected Writings (New York: Scribner, 1991), 397–99.
1 Clara’s good luck ran out: “Clara Bow,” American National Biography.
2 “My [New York] friends”: Barry Paris, Louise Brooks: A Biography (New York: Knopf, 1989), 187.
3 “the strangeness and excitement”: Jackson R. Bryer and Cathy W. Barks, eds., Dear Scott, Dearest Zelda: The Love Letters of F. Scott and Zelda Fitzgerald (New York: St. Martin’s Griffin, 2002), part three.
4 “When I was your age”: FSF to Scottie Fitzgerald, July 7, 1938, in Andrew Turnbull, ed., Scott Fitzgerald: Letters to His Daughter (New York: Scribner, 1965).
5 “It is the custom”: F. Scott Fitzgerald, “Echoes of the Jazz Age,” in The Crack-Up (New York: New Directions, 1945).
6 “No More Flappers”: New York Times, February 16, 1928, 22.
7 Loren Knox: Knox, “Our Lost Individuality,” Atlantic Monthly 8 (Dec. 1909), 20.