Two thousand years ago, few people knew that Vesuvius was a volcano, although in AD 62, what turned out to be a premonitory tremor caused damage to the coastal town of Pompeii as well as to other towns in the vicinity. Years later, residents were still repairing the damage to their homes and public buildings. Then, in AD 79, came the most devastating eruption. Horrific as it was for those who suffered, the result was the preservation of an ancient culture like a time capsule to be discovered centuries later.
NEED TO KNOW
081 857 53 47 • Via Villa dei Misteri 2 • www.pompeiisites.org • DA (partial) • Open 9am–7:30pm daily (until 5pm Nov–Mar) (last entry 90 mins before closing time) 
Herculaneum, Oplontis and Stabiae • 8:30am–7:30pm daily • Adm Pompeii €13, Herculaneum €11, Oplontis and Stabiae €5.50, cumulative ticket available €22 Villa dei Papiri • 9am–noon Sat–Sun • must book ahead at www.arethusa.net Crater of Vesuvius • 9am–5pm daily • Guided tours (for further details see Vesuvius Erupts) • Adm €6.50- There are on-site cafés at Pompeii and Herculaneum.
- Guided tours are also available – call 081 857 53 47.
- Some houses may be subject to closure due to restoration work.
1.Forum
Every Roman city centred commercial, civic, political and religious life around the Forum, generally a long rectangular area.
Forum
2.Amphitheatre
Far to the east stands Pompeii’s amphitheatre – a typical oval shape, though small by Roman standards . It was the first of its kind built for gladiatorial combat.
Amphitheatre
3.House of Menander
This grand house includes an atrium, peristyle and baths. It proved to be a treasure-trove of silver objects, now on display in Naples’ Museo Archeologico.
The grand House of Menander
4.Theatre
The large 2nd-century BC theatre was built in the style of the Greek system, using the slope of the land for the cavea (seating area).
5.Stabian Baths
To the west of Via Stabiana are the Stabian Baths, the most ancient structure here, dating back to the 4th century BC. The stuccoed vaults in the men’s changing room have preserved images of nymphs and cupids.
6.Brothel
The lupanarium, which is the largest of the ruined Roman city’s brothels, is decorated with frescoes depicting erotic, sometimes explicit, acts, which help to give some clue to the proclivities of the prostitutes.
7.House of the Vettii
One of the most beautiful houses in Pompeii, the interior is adorned with splendid paintings and friezes featuring mythological themes.
8.House of the Golden Cupids
This sumptuous house was named after the gold-leaf decorations of amorini (cupids) in the bedroom. It was owned by the Poppaea family, that of Nero’s second wife. The gardens were adorned with sculptures, marble tables and a pool.
9.Via dei Sepulcri and Villa dei Misteri
The Way of the Tombs lies outside the city gates for fear of the dead bringing bad luck. Beyond this is the 90-room House of the Mysteries, where you can peek in to see the marvellous wall paintings.
10.House of the Faun
The 1-m (3-ft) bronze statue of the Dancing Faun, found here in the middle of the courtyard pond, accounts for the name of this house, which covered an entire insula (city block). Still here are opus sectile mosaic marble floors (coloured geometric patterns) as well as wall decorations of great merit.
Statue of the Dancing Faun
MOUNT VESUVIUS
In ancient times, Vesuvius was simply “the mountain”, covered with vegetation and vines, until it famously blew its stack in AD 79. At least five other occurrences have been recorded in the last 400 years and experts estimate that it could erupt again at any time. Its last rumble was in 1944, when the pointed cone disappeared, along with the smoky plume that issued from it.
Herculaneum, Oplontis and Stabiae
1.Villa dei Papiri
The remains of the resort town of Herculaneum were discovered before Pompeii but were harder to excavate since it was covered by a thicker layer of volcanic ash. Fortunately, this also meant that every aspect was better preserved. This villa was one of the first to be explored, housing art treasures now in the Museo Archeologico. The papyrus scrolls that give the villa its name are in the National Library.
Art uncovered at Villa dei Papiri
2.House of the Stags
The name derives from the sculpture of stags being attacked by dogs that was found here. Other sculptures include a Satyr with Wineskin and a Drunken Hercules.
3.House of the Mosaic Atrium
This house takes its name from its mosaic floor of black-and-white geometric patterns. Gardens and rooms with views of the sea must have made it a lovely place to relax.
4.City Baths
Built in 10 BC, these traditional baths are fascinating. They are divided into male and female sections, both decorated with the same sea-themed mosaics featuring tritons and fish. At the centre of the complex is an open porticoed area used as a gymnasium.
Mosaic decoration, City Baths
5.Trellis House
This building provides a wonderfully preserved example of what an ordinary multi-family dwelling was like. Two storeys high, it has a balcony that overhangs the pavement and its walls are composed of wood and reed laths with crude tufa and lime masonry to fill in the frame.
6.House of Neptune and Amphitrite
This is named after the mosaic of the sea god and his nymph-bride that adorns the fountain in the summer dining room at the back of the house. Other fine mosaics can be seen here too. The shop attached to the house has wooden structures and furniture in perfect condition.
The eponymous mosaic, House of Neptune and Amphitrite
7.House of the Wooden Partition
A kind of “accordion” partition here was devised to separate the atrium from the tablinium, the room of business affairs.
8.Thermopolia
The Thermopolia is an example of a fast-food outlet of the day. The terracotta amphorae set into the marble counter top would have contained various comestibles. Only wealthy people had facilities to cook food, so most would stop by such a place to eat.
Marble counter tops, Thermopolia
9.Villa of Sabina Poppaea and Villa of Crassus
These beautifully preserved aristocratic villas are located in what was once the ancient resort of Oplontis. The complex includes gardens, porticoes, private baths, a pool and astounding wall decorations.
10.Stabian Villas
Set on the Varano Hill just outside Castellammare di Stabia, both villas preserve mosaic floors, gardens, peristyles and frescoes. Villa Arianna is named after a fresco of Ariadne being abandoned by Theseus. Villa San Marco sports a gymnasium, pool and interesting frescoes.
THE ERUPTION OF AD 79
On 24 August AD 79, Mount Vesuvius suddenly erupted. The apex of the calamity started at about 10am and by 1pm it was all over – all the cities on the mountain’s slopes were covered with lava, and Pompeii and its citizens were entirely buried. It lay undiscovered until 1750.
Here are the words of Pliny the Younger, who survived to write an eyewitness account of the events: “On Mount Vesuvius broad sheets of fire and leaping flames blazed at several points, their bright glare emphasized by the darkness… an ominous thick smoke, spreading over the earth like a flood, enveloping the earth in night… earth-shocks so violent it seemed the world was being turned upside down… the shrill cries of women, the wailing of children, the shouting of men… Many lifted up their hands to the gods, but a great number believed there were no gods, and that this was to be the world’s last, eternal night…The flames and smell of sulphur… heralded the approaching fire …The dense fumes… choked… nearly everyone, to death.”
