THE ISLANDS, SORRENTO AND THE SOUTH
This is one of the world’s most intensely emotive zones, where verdant-crowned cliffs plunge into the blue sea. On these islands is where the Greeks first brought their high culture to the area, where Roman emperors lived in stupendous luxury, and where, in more recent times, the world’s most glamorous celebrities indulged in their own lavish lifestyles. When the American writer John Steinbeck first saw the Amalfi Coast he was moved to uncontrollable weeping. He was not the first – nor will he be the last – to succumb to the emotional impact of the area’s potent beauty.
1.Ischia
The island of Ischia is surmounted by an extinct 788-m (2,585-ft) volcano, Monte Epomeo, and the many hot mineral springs here (some of them radioactive) have drawn cure- and pleasure-seekers to their soothing sources since ancient times. Green and rugged in appearance, the island also benefits from fine, long beaches. Like Capri, Ischia has had its share of famous residents – in the 19th century the Norwegian playwright Henrik Ibsen wrote Peer Gynt during a stay here, while in the 20th century the English poet W.H. Auden and his homosexual circle scandalized the locals. The island was also the first place in the area to be colonized by the Greeks, in the 8th century BC.
Forio town on the cliffs of the island of Ischia
2.Paestum
These ancient Greek temples are among the most complete – and most evocative – to have survived into modern times, even taking into account those in Greece itself. Besides the beauty and majesty of these timeless structures, this site has offered up countless other treasures, the remains of the Greco-Roman city that thrived here for some 1,000 years. The wonderful on-site museum is the repository of many unique finds, including the only known Greek paintings to have survived the ages. Taken from a tomb found nearby, the frescoes include a depiction of a joyous banquet of lovers, and a renowned diver – possibly a metaphor for the Greek conception of the afterlife (for further details see Paestum).
Remains of a Greek temple, Paestum
3.Procida
Smaller than Capri and Ischia and much less touristy, Procida attracts holiday-makers looking for tranquillity and cultural tradition. The island is flat with highly fertile soil, and is noted for its lemons, considered the best in the region. The island’s most original feature, however, is its unique architecture. The colourful houses along the Chiaiolella Port, Marina Corricella and Marina di Sancio Cattolico are known for their vaults – built as winter boat shelters – arches and external staircases.
Colourful buildings, Procida
4.Cava de’ Tirreni
Abbey: Open 8:30am–noon, 4–5:30pm daily; must be booked In a mountainous valley north of the Amalfi Coast, this undiscovered town was put up in the Middle Ages thanks to the Benedictine abbey Badia della Santissima Trinità (Abbey of the Holy Trinity) founded in 1011. A visit to the abbey and the medieval Borgo Scacciaventi in the town’s centre is an evocative walk through time.
5.Salerno
Duomo: Piazza Alfano I • Open 9am–1pm, 4–6pm daily Renowned in medieval times for its medical school, this city has been almost ignored by tourism; that may change now that the historic centre has undergone a restoration. The Romanesque Duomo is a reminder that Salerno was the capital of southern Italy in the 11th century.
6.Sorrento
Palisades and grand hotels notwithstanding, there is no getting around the fact that Sorrento can be chaotic. Yet the town has been a resort since the 1700s – Casanova and Goethe are two notable past visitors – and there is certainly plenty of charm to be found in the old streets.
7.Capri
The fabled isle has had its detractors – it has been called “nothing more than a rocky cliff with over-priced cafés” – and, in ancient times, the notorious shenanigans of Tiberius gave it an enduring reputation as the ultimate in decadence, as did the party life here in the 1950s. Yet, if you choose to stay awhile, you will discover the real Capri beyond the hype – a world of traditional farm life, scenic hiking terrain and sparkling azure waters for swimming and boating. A place with undeniable allure (for further details see Capri).
Faraglioni rocks, Capri
8.The Amalfi Coast
The famed Costiera Amalfitana lives up to the highest expectations. The winding corniche road offers striking panoramas, and some of the towns seem to defy gravity, clinging to steep slopes. Beauty and history are everywhere, with the most popular destinations being the towns of Amalfi, Positano and Ravello. The beaches are rocky yet undeniably beautiful, and time spent discovering this perpendicular paradise never fails to delight.
The town of Amalfi, Amalfi Coast
9.Massa Lubrense
To the west of Sorrento, this is one of several fishing villages clustered around little ports. Rarely crowded, the site affords wonderful views across to Capri from the belvedere in Largo Vescovado. At Marina di Lobra there’s a beach.
10.Nerano
This quiet fishing village, close to the tip of the peninsula, offers a peaceful escape. While administratively part of Massa Lubrense on the northern side of the peninsula, its remote location on the southern side means fine views and a scenic beach in the seaside hamlet of Marina del Cantone. With an atmospheric setting, sophisticated seaside dining, and fine hiking along the rugged coastline, including the protected nature reserve at Punta Campanella, it’s a lovely spot to while away an afternoon on the Amalfi Coast.
HIKING SPOTS
This region retains a great deal of virtually untouched natural beauty. On Capri, one of the best hikes is up the Scala Fenicia to Anacapri and then on up to the top, Monte Solaro. On Ischia, head up Via Monterone or Via Bocca from Forio, through the Falanga Forest to the summit of Monte Epomeo. Along the Amalfi Coast, the Sentieri degli Dei, above Positano, from Montepertuso to Nocella, offers stupendous views.
A DAY’S ISLAND HOPPING
Morning
The tour begins on the island of Procida. To get there, take either the first hydrofoil from Naples-Beverello or Naples-Mergellina or the first ferry from Pozzuoli, all of which take about 35 minutes. You will arrive at Marina Grande, greeted by the sight of fishing boats and the colourful houses lining the port. Take a quick hike to the island’s highest point, the Terra Murata (“walled town”).
Back down on the marina, enjoy some refreshment at Bar Capriccio (Via Roma 99) while waiting for your hydrofoil to Ischia.
On Ischia you will arrive at Casamicciola, the island’s second port, where you can have lunch (Fri–Sun) at the wonderfully rustic Il Focolare (Via Cretaio 68).
Afternoon
After lunch take a tour around the island in a glass-bottom boat (departs 2:30pm), stopping at the town of Sant’Angelo. Here you can take in the views, lounge by the dockside or walk along the cliff above Maronti Beach.
At the end of your tour, you can opt to stay over in one of the hotels in Casamicciola, or take a hydrofoil back to the mainland. If you spend the night, the next morning take the hydrofoil or one of the ferries to Capri. After riding the funicular up to Capri Town, follow the signs up to the ruins of Villa Jovis for the breathtaking views.
Amalfi Coast Sights
1.Positano
Known for decades as a playground for the rich and famous, this is an astonishingly vertical town in shades of pink and other faded pastels. Only one street snakes its way through the village – the only way to reach the beach and the heart of the village is to take the steps down (for further details see Amalfi, Ravello and Positano).
Positano, climbing up the hillside
2.Scala
This lesser-known, tranquil village sits across the valley from Ravello. Indeed, the best view of Ravello is from Scala, which is also the starting point for hikes to Amalfi and the Valle delle Ferriere.
3.Praiano
Grotta dello Smeraldo • Open Apr–Oct: 9am–4pm daily, Nov–Mar: 9am–3pm daily • Adm • 089 87 31 90 (boat trips) This little fishing village is perched on a ridge. Further along, you come to the Grotta dello Smeraldo (Emerald Cave). A lift takes you down to the boats to enter the grotto. The cave is also accessible by boat from Amalfi.
4.Amalfi
Amalfi is the largest and most historic town on its eponymous coastline. Between the 9th and 12th centuries the republic was at its height of mercantile power and the architecture still evokes that glory. The Duomo (cathedral) is glorious (for further details see Amalfi, Ravello and Positano).
5.Atrani
San Salvatore de’ Bireto This little town exudes a quiet charm, with its arcades and a maze of alley-stairways. Amalfi’s doges received their investiture at its church, San Salvatore de’ Bireto.
6.Ravello
In the 13th century Ravello was an important player in the sea trade and the medieval look accounts for its captivating beauty (for further details see Amalfi, Ravello and Positano).
7.Minori and Maiori
Maiori has the coast’s longest beach, while Minori has the archaeological site, the Villa Romana.
8.Cetara
Home to the coast’s most active fishing fleet, it is also the place to buy colatura di alici, a fish sauce descended from the ancient Roman one called garum. A tuna festival takes place every year in July.
9.Vietri sul Mare
Vietri is universally known for its ceramics, which begun in the 1400s and are still masterly handcrafted and hand-painted.
10.Conca dei Marini
Known for the luminous light at the Grotta dello Smeraldo (Emerald Grotto), but linger a little longer to see the picturesque marina, 16th-century watchtower and views from the San Pancrazio Church.
Museums
1.Certosa di San Giacomo, Capri
Viale Certosa • 081 837 62 18 • Open 9am–2pm Tue–Sun This 14th-century monastery features North African-style vaults forming a series of little domes. It now houses the town’s library.
2.Arsenale Museum, Amalfi
Largo Cesareo Console 3 • 089 87 11 70/339 150 58 18 • Open 10am–7pm daily • Adm Set in Amalfi’s medieval arsenal, this small museum traces the history of the powerful Republic of Amalfi and its contributions to the development of the compass and maritime laws.
3.Villa San Michele, Anacapri
081 837 14 01 • Open Mar: 9am–6pm; Apr & Oct: 9am–5pm; May–Sep: 9am–6pm; Nov–Feb: 9am–3:30pm • Adm This villa contains ancient marbles and furnishings from the 17th to 19th centuries (for further details see Villa San Michele).
Ancient statues at Villa San Michele
4.Castello Aragonese, Ischia
081 99 28 34 • Open Mar–Nov: 9am–7:30pm • Adm In the 16th century poetess Vittoria Colonna held court here, making Ischia the cultural centre of the Mediterranean. Part of the ruin is now the Il Monastero hotel.
5.Area Archeologica de Santa Restituta, Ischia
Piazza Santa Restituta, Lacco Ameno • Open 9:30am–12:30pm Mon–Sat • Adm Sitting below the 19th-century church are the remains of a 4th-century Christian basilica.
6.Abbazia di San Michele Arcangelo, Procida
Via Terra Murata 89 • 081 896 76 12 • Open 10am–12:45pm Mon, 10am–12:45pm, 3–5:30pm Tue–Sat Overlooking the sea, this 11th-century abbey is notable for its paintings by pupils of Luca Giordano.
7.Museo Antiquarium Equano, Vico Equense
Casa Municipale, Via Filangieri 98 • Open 9am–1pm Mon–Fri Finds from this Roman town consist of pottery, figurines and tools. They are now housed in the Town Hall.
8.Correale di Terranova, Sorrento
Via Correale 50 • 081 878 18 46 • timings vary, check website • Adm • www.museocorreale.it In this 18th-century villa, archaeological finds include a 4th-century BC Greek original of Artemis on a Deer.
9.Museo Archeologico Georges Vallet, Piano di Sorrento
Via Ripa di Cassano 14 • 081 532 14 78 • Open 9am–7pm Tue–Sun This interesting museum boasts finds from all over the peninsula, including pottery and weapons.
10.Villa Romana, Minori
Via Capodipiazza 28 • Open 9am–1 hour before sunset In this aristocratic villa the fresco style dates from the 1st century AD. Artifacts excavated here and nearby are also displayed.
Shopping
1.Sandalmakers, Capri
Canfora • Via Camerelle 3 L’Arte del Sandal Caprese di Antonio Viva • Via G Orlandi 75, Anacapri Cobblers jollier than these would be hard to find. Stop by to pick out designs you like and within a few hours – unless you choose something extra fancy – you’ll have your hand-tooled, made-to-measure sandals.
2.Carthusia, Capri
Via Camerelle 10 The closest you can come to bringing the natural beauty of Capri home is with Carthusia’s collection of perfumes inspired by and created on Capri. Fragrances, soaps and home scents make beautiful gifts.
Carthusia on Capri
3.Corallium, Anacapri
Via G Orlandi 163–5 A coral and cameo factory in Ercolano. The selection is extraordinary, created with both silver and gold, and prices are excellent. A certificate of guarantee comes with every purchase.
4.Limonoro, Sorrento
Via S Cesareo 51 One of the top souvenirs from the area is limoncello, the signature lemon liqueur. This is a good place to watch it being made, after which you’ll understand why it packs such a punch – it’s basically pure alcohol with flavouring.
5.Salvatore Gargiulo, Sorrento
Via Fuoro 33 Examples of Sorrentine intarsia (marquetry) are to be seen all over town, but this workshop turns out top-quality products at reasonable prices. Note the music boxes.
6.La Galleria dell’Arte, Anacapri
Via G Orlandi 107 Some of the best ceramics on the island. Designs tend to evoke the natural hues of the setting – azure, gold, green – usually with flowers and vines or other florid vegetation. Anything can be designed to your specifications and you can watch the artists at work.
7.La Scuderia del Duca, Amalfi
Cesareo Console 8 Amalfi’s handmade paper-making tradition is vibrantly on display in this beautiful shop.
8.Camo, Ravello
Piazza Vesovado 6 A cameo factory (and museum) that sells cameos and coral jewellery.
9.Ceramiche d’Arte, Ravello
Via della Repubblica 41 This workshop is the place to come for gorgeous ceramics decorated with traditional designs.
10.Milleunaceramica, Amalfi
Via Pietro Capuano 36 This shop is a treasure trove of locally produced ceramics. Each piece is handpicked by the owner and created by artisans.
Milleunaceramica
Nightlife
1.Taverna Anema e Core, Capri
Via Sella Orta 1 • Closed Oct–Mar: Mon–Fri The “Soul and Heart” taverna is still redolent of la dolce vita vibes of decades past and is considered Capri’s premier nightclub. It attracts a chic, yet fun-loving crowd.
2.Number Two, Capri
Via Camerelle 1 Another hot spot and local celebrity hangout. The DJ spins cool house and techno dance music, but don’t get here before 2am. Dressy club attire is de rigueur.
3.Qubè Café, Capri
Via li Curti 6 A quirky disco-bar a short stroll from Capri’s stylish Piazzetta. With a local feel that’s a refreshing change from the island’s posh night spots, music varies from classic rock to electronic.
4.Discoteca Valentino Pianobar, Ischia
Corso Vittoria Colonna 97 This beautifully decorated club attracts a young, energetic crowd.
5.Chaplin’s Pub, Sorrento
Corso Italia 18 A delightful mix of Irish and Italian, this friendly, family-owned Irish pub in the heart of Sorrento offers an excellent beer selection.
6.Music on the Rocks, Positano
Grotta dell’Incanto 51 • Closed winter Evocatively set inside a cavern, this beachside disco pub is the hot spot for nightlife on the Amalfi Coast. At weekends it is a high-energy nightclub featuring international DJs and live music. Cover charge.
7.La Piazzetta, Capri
Capri Town’s main square may be small but it’s big on la vita mondana (sophisticated lifestyle). The little bars, with their cluster of outdoor tables, are a magnet for daytrippers and locals alike, although the latter generally turn up after dark when the former have moved on.
La Piazzetta, the social heart of Capri
8.Annunziata Church, Ravello
Via della Annunziata • www.ravelloarts.org Dating from the Middle Ages, this church is no longer used for religious services; the Ravello Concert Society presents year-round chamber concerts in this evocative setting.
9.Africana, Marina di Praia
The approach to this disco is via a walkway cut out of a seafront rock face, while the dance floor seems to be suspended above the waves. Decor includes ethnic masks and parrots.
10.Villa Rufolo, Ravello
Piazza Duomo • Open 8am–8pm in summer, 9am–4pm in winter Jazz concerts and classical recitals are held in the grounds of the Villa Rufolo from March to November.
Pizzerie, Cafés and Gelaterie
1.Gran Caffè, Amalfi
Corso delle Repubbliche Marinare 37/38 • € With picturesque outdoor seating overlooking the beach and port of Amalfi, this café is a popular spot with locals and visitors for enjoying drinks or a light meal. The sunset views are spectacular.
2.La Zagara, Positano
Via dei Mulini 4–8 • € La Zagara is a major tourist magnet, but there’s no denying that the treats they turn out here are delicious: pastries, cakes, fresh fruit sorbets and the like. The patio, with fragrant lemon trees, is captivating.
3.Bar Tiberio, Capri
La Piazzetta • € One of the main bars on the Piazzetta, but everyone has his or her own favourite. Great for people-watching.
4.Bar Calise, Ischia
Piazza degli Eroi 69 • € One of the island’s best bars, with excellent gelato (ice cream) and dolci (desserts). It’s surrounded by dense greenery in the middle of a traffic circle in this laid-back port.
5.Da Maria, Amalfi
Via Lorenzo d’Amalfi 14 • 089 87 18 80 • Closed Mon • € Amalfi’s best wood-fired pizza can be found at this friendly place near Piazza Duomo. Local specialities also feature on the menu.
6.Villa Verde, Capri
Via Sella Orta 6/a • 081 837 70 24 • €€ Offering spacious indoor seating as well as a lush garden, this restaurant has exquisite focaccia and pizza and an excellent house red from Calabria.
7.Pasticceria Pansa, Amalfi
Piazza Duomo 40 • € An Amalfi institution since 1830, this elegant bar offers a wide selection of irresistible sweets and locally made chocolates. The chocolate covered citrus peels are a treat. Outdoor tables provide a view of the goings-on in the main square.
Relaxing on the piazza outside Pasticceria Pansa
8.Da Pasquale, Sant’Angelo, Ischia
Via Sant’Angelo 79 • 081 90 42 08 • € Dining is home-style here, even to the occasional sharing of tables and bench seating. The pizza is tasty and there’s a good choice of beer and wine.
9.Sant’Antonino, Sorrento
Via Santa Maria delle Grazie 6 • 081 877 12 00 • € Excellent, wood-fired pizza is served here for lunch and dinner. The heat of traditional wood ovens flash-bakes the dough, preventing the toppings from becoming soggy.
10.Nonna Sceppa, Paestum
Via Laura 53 • 082 885 10 64 • Closed Thu (winter only), Oct • €€ The least touristy of the choices here is a highly recommended restaurant that turns out excellent pizzas, as well as seafood and other home-style dishes. Wild mushrooms in season – try some on your pizza.
Restaurants
1.La Cambusa, Positano
Piazza Vespucci 4 • 089 87 54 32 • Closed winter • €€ Positioned to the right of the beach, with dining on a porticoed balcony. Seafood is the thing to go for.
2.Marina Grande, Amalfi
Via della Regione 4 • 089 87 11 29 • €€ One of the best restaurants in town, right on the sea. Dishes include seafood ravioli with arugula (rocket) sauce.
3.Villa Maria, Ravello
Via Santa Chiari 2 • 089 85 72 55 • €€€ With a breathtaking setting and pergola-covered dining terrace, this is a peaceful respite for savouring the views and Ravello specialities.
4.Buca di Bacco “da Serafina”, Capri
Via Longano 25 • 081 837 07 23 • Closed Wed • €€ This welcoming place is top of most locals’ list, for both quality and price. Cooking features seafood and antipasti.
5.Da Paolino Lemon Trees, Capri
Via Palazzo e Mare 11 • 081 837 61 02 • €€€ Enjoy romantic outdoor dining under the lemon trees at this country-style restaurant. Traditional Caprese dishes are as luscious as the setting.
Da Paolino Lemon Trees, Capri
6.Terrazza Bosquet, Sorrento
Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria, Piazza Tasso 34 • 081 877 71 11 • €€€ The grandest experience Sorrento has to offer, in the frescoed dining room of this superlative hotel. Silver, china, crystal and fine linen complement the service you receive.
7.Il Solitario, Anacapri
Via G Orlandi 96 • 081 837 13 82 • € Hidden away down a narrow walkway, this delightful place is like being in someone’s private garden. Everything is homemade and the freshest the season has to offer.
8.La Conchiglia, Chiaia Beach, Procida
Steps from Via Pizzaco 10 • 081 896 76 02 • €€ Get here by walking down 183 steps from Piazza Olmo or reserve a boat trip. Once here, try pasta with sweet mussels and courgettes (zucchini).
9.Alberto al Mare, Ischia
Via Cristoforo Colombo 8 • 081 98 12 59 • €€ Located over the water, the bounty of the sea is the speciality here. Options might include swordfish or monkfish.
10.Don Alfonso 1890, Sant’Agata sui Due Golfi, Sorrentine Peninsula
Corso Sant’ Agata 13 • 081 878 00 26 • Closed Mon, 7 Jan–7 Mar • €€€ With two Michelin stars expect lavish elegance and impeccable food. The tasting menus and their accompanying wines are superb.