At around 300,000 square kilometers (116,000 square miles), the Kyzyl-Kum Desert is the biggest expanse of desert plain in Central Asia. Located between two major rivers – the Amn-Darya (Oxus) and the Syr-Darya (Jaxartes), the Greeks called this region Transoxiana and the Arabs referred to it as Mawarannahr.
The area is rich in mineral deposits, such as gold, uranium, copper, natural gas and oil and there are numerous industrial sites located in the desert.
At the northern end, these two rivers used to flow into the Aral Sea which used to be one of the 4 largest lakes in the world but an environmental disaster has been occurring there since the Russians decided to divert the flow of the rivers to irrigate the land to grow rice, melons, cereal and, in particular, cotton.
The Soviet Plan was to make cotton a major export. Whilst this succeeded it was at the expense of the Aral Sea which is now just 10% of its original size. There are a number of projects in neighbouring Kazakhstan aimed at replenishing the lake but it will never be restored to its original size.
Our adventure across this wilderness began early with a hearty breakfast and the provision of an extra bottle of water each. The heat and lack of humidity was beginning to take its toll and a couple of fellow travellers had succumbed to Montezuma, so it was going to be more of an ordeal for them as we entered this hostile environment.
As we are leaving Khiva, Laura informs Tracey that her suitcase has arrived in Tashkent from London and that it is being put on a flight to Bukhara. She is delighted but will not celebrate until she is reunited with her belongings.
Awful road across Kyzyl-Kum Desert
Needless to say, once we have negotiated our way back through Urgench and into the open desert, the road conditions worsen to practically ‘non-existent’, yet in some stretches there is a new smooth concrete road that is in the course of construction.
Tatiana tells us that the contract for this new road across the desert had been let to 3 different countries – Germany, Russia and Korea. The bits that we see today that are completed are – no surprise – the German stretches but they are not connected at either end because the Russian and Korean parts have yet to be completed. In fact, the Koreans have run out of money and it is not known when or if they will be able to complete their stretch.
In the meantime, all traffic has to use what’s left of the old road. To my surprise, there are quite a lot of heavy lorries on the road today, and it is no wonder, therefore, that the road is as dilapidated as it is, if there is this constant pounding of heavy vehicles.
Vehicles officially drive on the right here, but on this road that etiquette goes out the window and you can drive where you like in order to avoid the potholes. On many occasions, we pass an oncoming vehicle on the wrong side of the road.
In the back of the bus, we are being thrown around like peas in a pod. It is impossible to sleep and those whose stomachs are somewhat delicate are having a particularly bad time. The bus has to stop quite regularly for ‘comfort’ breaks. There are no facilities apart from the many prickly bushes. It is nice, however, just to get out and feel ‘terra firma’ beneath my feet.
Eventually, the bus pulls in to what must be the only service area on the whole road, judging by the number of other coaches and lorries that are parked up. We are the third coach to pull in. As this is a scheduled stop, we are expected for lunch and are shown to two long tables set up outside the café and we are served an incredible spread of local fare. Let’s face it, we are literally in the middle of nowhere. It is four hours back to Urgench and another six hours before we get to Bukhara, so someone has a long journey to wherever to get all this food. For some, the stop is a relief as they need to make use of the facilities. I spot a small building that looks as if it houses a toilet but, not surprisingly, I am not taken seriously!
Outdoor facilities!
We tuck in to pickled vegetables, rice and mutton kebabs served with naan bread. The local beer goes down very well and is cold, so the fridge must be working! When we have finished eating, the proprietor brings out a strange looking bottle and starts serving small quantities of a clear liquid. I soon catch on that this is the local vodka. I am partial to a shot or two of vodka wherever I go in the world, in particular to Eastern Europe, so my travel companions challenge me to sink at least one. Many decline and push their glasses towards me.
I’m always up for a challenge and swiftly sink the first one. I thought 80% proof home-made Polish vodka was strong but this is like rocket fuel. I can feel the burning sensation going down my throat. John then has a go and nearly falls over as a result. Retired teacher Mary plucks up the courage and puts one back to. I’m impressed! Apart from that, there are no other takers, so not wanting to be outdone, I have another one.
The expression on my face is one that tells everyone that I shouldn’t have done that. Nevertheless, it is done but no more! After all, we have another six hours of bumping along that road to go and if anyone is likely to need a ‘bush stop’ then it will be me.
Little do we know that in the coming days that vodka will play a key role in curing Montezuma’s Revenge.
The bus resumes its bumpy and winding way on towards Bukhara. There are a number of ‘bush stops’ but I feel OK so I don’t need to take advantage of the facilities on offer. There is a small bit of respite as the bus is allowed to experience one of the German made stretches of the new road. It is bliss but all good things have to come to an end and it is quite a sudden end as we drop off the smooth concreted surface back into the potholes. Let’s hope Korea and Russia get their acts together soon so that this road can be finished.
When we arrive in the outskirts of Bukhara, we see some billboards adorned with the faces of our Olympian friends with their medals around their necks. That is pretty quick PR work in getting the guys to have their photos taken and then getting the posters printed and pasted onto billboards – all within a couple of days. They are the national heroes that we thought they would be. Good for them, they deserve it!