Hiyashi Chuka (Cold Ramen Noodles)

SERVES 4

This is the cold noodle standard in Japan. Literally translated to “chilled Chinese,” it’s mainly served during June and July, but you can eat it anytime you like. The beauty of this dish is that almost any array of veggies and protein work, and it’s a great way to finish off leftover vegetables and meats. Cold ramen noodles are classically topped with cucumbers and tomatoes as well as slivers of omelet and finely julienned ham. The delicious “soup” that coats the dish resembles drinkable vinaigrette.

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For the garlic oil:

4 garlic cloves

⅓ cup canola oil

For the “soup” base:

¾ cup sake

¾ cup mirin

2 cups soy sauce

⅔ cup honey

1¼ cups rice vinegar

¾ cup brown rice vinegar

¼ cup sesame oil

1 tablespoon salt

For the assembly:

4 portions fresh or dried ramen noodles (see Note)

½ pound smoked ham, cut into thin julienne strips

One 3-egg omelet, cooked, cooled to room temperature, and slivered

1 English cucumber, peeled, seeded, and cut into thin half moons

4 small tomatoes, cut into wedges

1 bunch scallions, sliced thinly

To make the oil, crush the garlic lightly. Combine the garlic and canola oil in a small saucepan. Cook over very low heat, to infuse the oil, until the garlic is soft, about 20 minutes. Strain and reserve the oil, and save the garlic for something else.

To make the base, combine the sake and mirin in a heavy-bottomed pot. Bring to a boil and simmer for 3 minutes to remove the alcohol flavor. Add soy and honey to the pot, stirring to dissolve the honey. Remove from the heat and allow the liquid to cool. Add the remaining ingredients, including the garlic oil. Cool and reserve.

To assemble, cook four portions of ramen noodles according to the package directions. Quickly chill them in a colander under cold running water. Divide between four bowls. Divide the soup base equally among the bowls. Top each bowl with small piles of the garnishes. Sprinkle with the scallions.

Note: You can buy ramen noodles at Asian supermarkets or use instant noodles (just throw away the flavorings).