Sautéed Monkfish with Juniper-Smoked Butter and Champagne Sauce

SERVES 4

I picked up this cold-smoking technique when I worked at Noma. I love using it, as the juniper imparts a light, lingering flavor. I usually bring this butter home from the restaurant but it’s a technique that can all be done in a home oven as long as you do it carefully. The ice in the middle rack prevents the butter from melting.

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For the monkfish:

1½ cups smoked butter (recipe follows)

One 2-pound monkfish tail (trimmed and cleaned, on the bone)

⅓ cup chopped garlic

½ cup fresh lemon thyme leaves

For the Champagne sauce:

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

2 cups sliced shallots

¾ cup Champagne

12 tablespoons unsalted butter, cubed

Salt, to taste

Heat half of the smoked butter in a pan over medium heat. Add the monkfish and sear on each side until golden, 1 to 2 minutes. Add half of the garlic and lemon thyme and continue basting.

Remove the butter (as it will have browned) and refresh the pan with the rest of the smoked butter, garlic, and lemon thyme. Continue basting until the center of the fish reaches 135°F on an instant-read thermometer or until the tip of a knife, once poked through to the bone, comes out very hot. Let the fish rest for 20 minutes in the pan before serving.

While the fish is resting, heat the oil in a saucepan. Add the shallots and sauté for 3 to 4 minutes over low heat. Add the Champagne, simmer, and reduce the liquid by one third, about 20 minutes. Strain. Add the butter cubes one by one while whisking constantly. Season with salt. Carefully remove the fish from the bone, divide among four plates, and serve with the Champagne sauce.