While growing up, I loved visiting Country Maid Bakery, an old-school place in Chicago’s northern suburbs that always smelled like buttery spritz cookies were baking in the oven. I was enamored with the place and its cookie display. Some of the spritz cookies were covered in sprinkles while others were dipped in chocolate, and all of them had that signature crisp yet delicate texture. When I was older, a friend of mine got a job working behind the counter. If I showed up at the right time, she’d hand over a bag full of day-old spritz cookies. This was pure teenage heaven.
In comparison, I came to love thumbprint cookies much later. I met Judy Contino early in my career. She took me on as her pastry assistant when she ran the dessert portion of the menu at Ambria in Chicago. We have stayed in touch ever since. When she opened her bakery, Bittersweet, on Chicago’s north side, I would fill in occasionally. Like Country Maid, Bittersweet had an enticing display of cookies. But time and time again, I always reached for her thumbprints. They had everything I loved in cookies: multiple textures and a delicious filling. When I opened Hot Chocolate, thumbprints became a mainstay on my cookie plate.
On the surface, spritz cookies and thumbprint cookies appear very different from one another. One is piped with a pastry bag (or extruded from a cookie press) and one is rolled, dimpled, and filled. Yet in my mind, they belong together. They are classics that lend themselves to decoration. On a structural level, both also are made from easy-to-work-with short dough, the kind that has a high percentage of butter. Like shortbread, this kind of cookie yields a tender, buttery crumb but does not rise as much as cookies that contain a lot of eggs or leavening agents (although I do use egg and baking soda and baking powder occasionally in these cookies for texture). With both cookies, I break with tradition and use my own technique for shaping them.
Spritz cookies—also called Swedish butter cookies—are popular around Christmas, but I like making them year-round. They have a mildly sweet vanilla flavor that complements countless added flavors, but they are also lovely unadorned. The first recipe I share is my classic butter cookie. As the chapter progresses, the cookies evolve to include everything from malted milk and toasted and ground coconut to violet sugar.
The usual way to go about shaping spritz cookies is to use a cookie press. I have never owned a press, so I use a pastry bag and pipe the dough instead. (If what I’ve read is true, spritz comes from the German word spritzen, meaning “to squirt,” so a pastry bag makes sense.) I prefer the freedom that a pastry bag provides to make shapes, but if you love your cookie press, go to town with it. The dough is firm, so piping the cookies takes some muscle. If the dough is too firm to pipe comfortably, mix in more milk one tablespoon at a time. For the best results, fill the pastry bag only halfway with dough. (See instructions on using a pastry bag.)
A little spritz dough goes a long way; these recipes yield a lot of cookies. It is best to work in batches. I like to refrigerate the piped cookies before baking them so they hold their shape as they bake. If your refrigerator is short on space or if you only have two sheet pans, then work in batches. You can pipe directly onto parchment paper while you are waiting for a sheet pan to cool. If the parchment slides around while you are piping, put a dab of batter directly on the work surface to anchor it in place.
My thumbprint cookies are different from the ones I ate growing up. I use preserves cooked with lambic or I forgo jam altogether. My recipes include hot fudge, praline, peach preserves, and, in one case, I make a schmear to spread on top right before serving.
The usual way to make thumbprints is to roll the cookie dough into balls and then press the centers with your thumb to make indentations. My method for making thumbprints deviates from the norm, but it is faster and more efficient. I form the dough into a square and refrigerate it. Once chilled, I cut it into strips and then roll the strips into logs to round out the edges. Then I often roll the logs of dough in coarse sugar, crushed nuts, or another element that provides texture. I cut each log into even pieces approximately 1 inch thick, or the length of half of my thumb, keeping the pieces together as a log as I work (pictured here). Then I gently reroll the logs after cutting them to once again round out the sides. Once the dough is cut and gently rerolled, I pull apart the pieces, place them on a sheet pan lined with parchment paper, and make indentations into their centers with the tip of my index finger.
When I bake thumbprints unfilled, I pull out the pan about halfway through baking and tap down the centers with a cocktail muddler, the round end of a large wooden spoon, or even the lid of a vanilla bottle. Anything will do as long as it’s approximately the same size as the “thumbprint.”
S COOKIES
makes approximately 46 cookies
THIS COOKIE IS AN homage to the S cookies my grandmother used to make. And even though she used a different dough to make hers, this recipe echoes their elegant simplicity. Because of their shape, these cookies also have an addictive crisp-crunchy texture. I bake them until their edges brown, giving the cookies a caramelized accent. Alternatively, if you are after a simple spritz cookie recipe to decorate, use this one and pipe it into any shape that you fancy.
To pipe the cookies, you will need Ateco tip #823.
1 cup (8 ounces) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1¼ cups confectioners’ sugar, sifted
½ vanilla bean, seeds only
½ cup plus 2 tablespoons whole milk, at room temperature
1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract
2½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour, sifted
1½ teaspoons kosher salt
Line a couple of half sheet (13 by 18-inch) pans with parchment paper. Fit a pastry bag with the Ateco tip #823.
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, mix the butter on medium speed for 5 to 10 seconds. Add the sugar and vanilla bean seeds and beat until the butter mixture is aerated and looks like frosting, 3 to 4 minutes. Scrape the sides and bottom of the bowl with a rubber spatula to bring the batter together.
Add the milk and vanilla extract and mix on medium speed until the batter resembles cottage cheese, approximately 10 seconds. Scrape the sides and bottom of the bowl with a rubber spatula to bring the batter together. Mix on medium speed for 20 to 30 seconds to make nearly homogeneous.
In a bowl, whisk together the flour and salt.
With the mixer on low speed, gradually add the flour. Mix until the dough just comes together but still looks shaggy, approximately 30 seconds. Do not overmix. Scrape the sides and bottom of the bowl with a rubber spatula to bring the batter together.
Fill the pastry bag halfway with the batter. Pipe “S” shapes approximately 3½ inches long onto the prepared pans, allowing 1 inch of space between each cookie. Chill for 10 to 20 minutes.
Heat the oven to 375°F.
Lower the oven to 350°F. Bake one pan at a time for 10 minutes. Rotate the pan and bake until the cookies are golden brown around the edges, 5 to 7 minutes more. Let the cookies cool completely on the sheet pan. Repeat with the remaining pan.
The cookies can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 days.
MALTED MILK SPRITZ
makes approximately 56 cookies
MALT IS ONE OF my favorite pastry flavors. I love chocolate malted milk shakes. I love malted milk balls. And I love how malt pairs with coffee, banana, and halvah. As a consequence, I have something with malt on my dessert menu at all times—and cookies are no exception. Here I incorporate malted milk in two ways: dissolving it in milk and creaming it with butter and sugar. To go over the top with malt love, I dip the ends in melted dark milk chocolate and crushed malted milk balls.
To pipe the cookies, you will need Ateco tip #895.
½ cup plus 2 tablespoons whole milk
¼ cup plus ⅔ cup malted milk powder
2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
1 cup (8 ounces) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1¼ cups confectioners’ sugar, sifted
½ vanilla bean, seeds only
2⅓ cups plus 1 tablespoon unbleached all-purpose flour, sifted
1½ teaspoons kosher salt
8 ounces dark milk chocolate (preferably 53% cacao), melted
½ cup crushed malted milk balls
Line a couple of half sheet (13 by 18-inch) pans with parchment paper. Fit a pastry bag with the Ateco tip #895.
In a small pot, bring the milk to a simmer. Remove from the heat and whisk in ¼ cup of the malted milk powder. Pour into a heatproof liquid measuring cup, stir in the vanilla extract, and refrigerate until the milk is room temperature.
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, mix the butter on medium speed for 5 to 10 seconds. Add the sugar, remaining ⅔ cup malted milk powder, and vanilla bean seeds and beat until the butter mixture is aerated and looks like frosting, 3 to 4 minutes. Scrape the sides and bottom of the bowl with a rubber spatula to bring the batter together.
Add the cooled milk and mix on medium speed until the batter resembles cottage cheese, approximately 10 seconds. Scrape the sides and bottom of the bowl with a rubber spatula to bring the batter together. Mix on medium speed for 20 to 30 seconds to make nearly homogeneous.
In a bowl, whisk together the flour and salt.
With the mixer on low speed, gradually add the flour. Mix until the dough just comes together but still looks shaggy, approximately 30 seconds. Do not overmix. Scrape the sides and bottom of the bowl with a rubber spatula to bring the batter together.
Fill the pastry bag halfway with the batter. With the textured side of the pastry tip facing up, pipe the cookies into 3-inch-long strips onto the prepared pans, moving your hand up and down (not side to side) as you pipe to create a wavy texture. (Aim for 6 or 7 short waves per strip.) Allow 1 inch of space between each cookie. Chill for 10 to 20 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 375°F.
Lower the oven to 350°F. Bake one pan at a time for 10 minutes. Rotate the pan and bake until the cookies are golden brown around the edges, 5 to 7 minutes more. Let the cookies cool completely on the sheet pan. Repeat with the remaining pan.
Line a couple of half sheet pans with parchment paper. Put the crushed malted milk balls in a bowl. Dip the ends of the cookies into the melted chocolate and shake off the excess. Dip the chocolate-covered ends into the chocolate malted milk balls to coat and place on the prepared pans. Refrigerate until set.
The cookies can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 days.
TOASTED COCONUT SPRITZ
makes approximately 50 cookies
NOTHING BEATS THE FLAVOR and texture of fresh coconut. To open up a coconut, I take a corkscrew or a hammer and a clean screw and test the three soft spots on the husk of the coconut. When I find the softest spot, I dig into the husk to make a hole to drain out the liquid. I then put the coconut on a sheet tray and roast it in a hot oven until it cracks. Right out of the oven, I wrap it in a dish towel and bang it against the ground to break it up more. While the coconut is still warm, it is easy to peel away the husk and the dark brown skin to reveal the white meat. This is good stuff. It peels into elegant strips with a vegetable peeler, which I then like to lightly toast. But, clearly, it is a process.
So when fresh coconut is out of reach, dried coconut is the next best thing. I use sweetened coconut here, which I toast and then grind into the flour to create a lovely, textured dough. You can use unsweetened if you prefer, but you may have to increase the sugar in the recipe. To shape, I like to pipe these cookies a little larger than the other spritz cookies in this chapter to create a dramatic effect.
To pipe the cookies, you will need Ateco tip #826.
1½ cups shredded sweetened coconut
2¼ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1½ teaspoons kosher salt
1 cup (8 ounces) unsalted butter, at room temperature
¾ cup confectioners’ sugar, sifted
½ cup plus 2 tablespoons cream of coconut (such as Coco Lopez)
2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
8 ounces bittersweet chocolate (60% to 65% cacao), melted
Heat the oven to 350°F.
Scatter the coconut evenly across a half sheet (13 by 18-inch) pan and bake, stirring once or twice, until the coconut is an even light brown, approximately 10 minutes. Cool completely.
In a food processor, pulse 1 cup of the toasted coconut with ½ cup of the flour until a coconut meal forms. Pulse in the remaining 1¾ cups flour and the salt. Reserve the remaining ½ cup toasted coconut for finishing the cookies.
Line a couple of half sheet pans with parchment paper. Fit a pastry bag with the Ateco tip #826.
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, mix the butter on medium speed for 5 to 10 seconds. Add the sugar and beat until the butter mixture is aerated and looks like frosting, 3 to 4 minutes. Scrape the sides and bottom of the bowl with a rubber spatula to bring the batter together.
In a liquid measuring cup, combine the cream of coconut and vanilla.
On medium speed, add ½ cup cream of coconut and mix until the batter resembles cottage cheese, approximately 10 seconds. Scrape the sides and bottom of the bowl with a rubber spatula to bring the batter together. Mix on medium speed for 20 to 30 seconds to make nearly homogeneous.
With the mixer on low speed, gradually add the coconut-flour mixture. Mix until the dough just comes together but still looks shaggy, approximately 30 seconds. Do not overmix. Scrape the sides and bottom of the bowl with a rubber spatula to bring the batter together.
If the dough seems too thick to pipe, mix in a tablespoon at a time of cream of coconut, up to ⅔ cup.
Fill the pastry bag halfway with the batter. Pipe 3½-inch-long sticks onto the prepared pans, allowing 1 inch of space between each cookie. Chill for 10 to 20 minutes.
Increase the oven to 375°F.
Lower the oven to 350°F. Bake one pan at a time for 10 minutes. Rotate the pan and bake until the cookies brown around the edges and hold their shape when touched, 5 to 7 minutes more. Let the cookies cool completely on the sheet pan. Repeat with the remaining pan.
Line a couple of half sheet pans with parchment paper. Dip the ends of the cookies into the melted chocolate, shake off the excess, and place on the prepared pans. Sprinkle a pinch of the remaining toasted coconut over the melted chocolate. Refrigerate until set.
The cookies can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 days.
VIOLET HEARTS
makes approximately 56 cookies
NICK COLELLA, A TALENTED artist who created my tattoos, has brought his family into Hot Chocolate for years. His daughter, Josie, is probably my number one cookie fan. When the family comes in for dinner, I take Josie and her brother, Luca, by the hand and lead them into the kitchen to pick out a cookie from the speed rack. Because Josie’s favorite color is purple, I created these cookies with violet sugar to catch her eye. Unusually aromatic and visually stunning, they take the idea of candied violets to a whole new level. I keep the rest of this spritz cookie simple, with just a splash of orange blossom water to bring out the violet flavor. If you want to go the extra mile, dot the end of each cookie with melted white chocolate and place a candied violet on top. I buy violet sugar from Rodrick Markus of Rare Tea Cellar. (See
Sources.)
To pipe the cookies, you will need Ateco tip #823.
1 cup (8 ounces) unsalted butter, at room temperature
¾ cup violet sugar, plus ¼ cup for garnish
½ cup plus 2 tablespoons confectioners’ sugar, sifted
⅔ cup whole milk
1 teaspoon orange blossom water
2½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1½ teaspoons kosher salt
Line a couple of half sheet pans with parchment paper. Fit a pastry bag with the Ateco tip #823.
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, mix the butter on medium speed for 5 to 10 seconds. Add the ¾ cup violet sugar and the confectioners’ sugar and beat until the butter mixture is aerated and looks like purple frosting, approximately 4 minutes. Scrape the sides and bottom of the bowl with a rubber spatula to bring the batter together.
In a liquid measuring cup, combine the milk and orange blossom water.
In a bowl, whisk together the flour and salt.
On medium speed, add the milk mixture and mix until the batter resembles cottage cheese, approximately 10 seconds. Scrape the sides and bottom of the bowl with a rubber spatula to bring the batter together. Mix on medium speed for 20 to 30 seconds to make nearly homogeneous.
With the mixer on low speed, gradually add the flour. Mix until the dough just comes together but still looks shaggy, approximately 30 seconds. Do not overmix. Scrape the sides and bottom of the bowl with a rubber spatula to bring the batter together.
Fill the pastry bag halfway with the batter. Pipe 3-inch hearts onto the prepared pans, allowing 1 inch of space between each cookie. Sprinkle violet sugar on top. Chill for 10 to 20 minutes.
Heat the oven to 375°F.
Lower the oven to 350°F. Bake one pan at a time for 10 minutes. Rotate the pan and bake until the cookies brown around the edges and hold their shape when touched, 5 to 7 minutes more. Let the cookies cool completely on the sheet pan. Repeat with the remaining pan.
The cookies can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 days.
GROUND CHOCOLATE SPRITZ
makes approximately 65 cookies
TO MAKE OUR HOT chocolate blends, we grind batches of chocolate in a chilled 10-quart capacity Robot Coupe. We sift the ground chocolate to remove the large bits, which we then either regrind or save for other projects—such as these cookies. Combining the ground bits with cocoa powder gives the spritz a one-two punch of chocolate. For a technical knockout, dip the ends in melted dark milk chocolate, such as TCHO SeriousMilk 53% cacao, the optimal choice.
To pipe the cookies, you will need Ateco tip #823.
1¼ cups (5 ounces) dark milk chocolate (preferably 53% cacao)
2¼ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon natural cocoa powder
1½ teaspoons kosher salt
1 cup (8 ounces) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1¼ cups confectioners’ sugar, sifted
½ vanilla bean, seeds only
⅔ cup whole milk, at room temperature
2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
8 ounces dark milk chocolate (preferably 53% cacao), melted
Line a couple of half sheet (13 by 18-inch) pans with parchment paper. Fit a pastry bag with the Ateco tip #823.
Put the chocolate in a bowl and freeze until chilled, approximately 20 minutes.
In a bowl, sift together the flour and cocoa powder. Whisk in the salt.
In a food processor, blend the chilled chocolate with ½ cup of the flour mixture until the chocolate is ground to a fine meal and no large pieces remain. Pulse in the remaining flour mixture.
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, mix the butter on medium speed for 5 to 10 seconds. Add the sugar and vanilla bean seeds and beat until the butter mixture is aerated and looks like frosting, 3 to 4 minutes. Scrape the sides and bottom of the bowl with a rubber spatula to bring the batter together.
On medium speed, gradually add the milk and vanilla extract and mix until the batter resembles cottage cheese, approximately 10 seconds. Scrape the sides and bottom of the bowl with a rubber spatula to bring the batter together. Mix on medium speed for 20 to 30 seconds to make nearly homogeneous.
With the mixer on low speed, gradually add the chocolate flour. Mix until the dough just comes together but still looks shaggy, approximately 30 seconds. Do not overmix. Scrape the sides and bottom of the bowl with a rubber spatula to bring the batter together.
Fill the pastry bag halfway with the batter. Pipe teardrop-shaped spritz approximately 3 inches long onto the prepared pans, allowing 1 inch of space
between each cookie. Chill for 10 to 20 minutes.
Heat the oven to 375°F.
Lower the oven to 350°F. Bake one pan at a time for 10 minutes. Rotate the pan and bake until brown around the edges, 5 to 7 minutes more. Let the cookies cool completely on the sheet pan. Repeat with the remaining pan.
Line a couple of half sheet pans with parchment paper. Put the jimmies in a small bowl. Dip the ends of the cookies into the melted chocolate and shake off the excess. Dip the chocolate-covered ends into the jimmies to coat and place on the prepared pans. Refrigerate until set.
The cookies can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 days.
PEANUT BUTTER THUMBPRINTS WITH STRAWBERRY LAMBIC JAM
makes approximately 40 cookies
LISTEN UP, PEANUT BUTTER and jelly lovers: I’ve got your number with this peanut butter cookie filled with strawberry jam. The tried-and-true combination is made even better with the addition of Beer Nuts. I grind the mildly sweet and salty peanuts into a fine meal to use for coating the exterior of the thumbprints. The bonus is that you can snack on them while you make these cookies. If Beer Nuts are unavailable, opt for roasted, Spanish red-skinned peanuts.
½ cup (4 ounces) unsalted butter, at room temperature
⅓ cup granulated sugar
⅓ cup firmly packed light brown sugar
¾ cup creamy peanut butter
1 extra-large egg, at room temperature
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1¼ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
½ teaspoon baking powder
½ teaspoon baking soda
½ teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon sea salt flakes
1 scant cup (5 ounces) Beer Nuts or roasted red-skinned peanuts
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, mix the butter briefly on medium speed for 5 to 10 seconds. Add the sugars and beat until the butter mixture is aerated and pale in color, approximately 4 minutes. Scrape the sides and bottom of the bowl with a rubber spatula to bring the batter together. Add the peanut butter and mix on medium speed to combine thoroughly, approximately 1 minute.
Crack the egg into a small cup or bowl and add the vanilla.
In a bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salts.
On medium speed, add the egg to the butter mixture and mix until the batter resembles cottage cheese, approximately 10 seconds. Scrape the sides and bottom of the bowl with a rubber spatula to bring the batter together. Mix on medium speed for 20 to 30 seconds to make nearly homogeneous.
Add the dry ingredients all at once and mix on low speed until the dough comes together but still looks shaggy, approximately 30 seconds. Scrape the sides and bottom of the bowl to bring the batter together. Mix for another 10 seconds on medium speed. Remove the bowl from the stand mixer. With a plastic bench scraper, bring the dough completely together by hand.
Stretch out a long sheet of plastic wrap on a work surface and put the dough on top. Pat into a 6 by 8-inch rectangle, using the bench scraper to square off the sides. Wrap tightly and refrigerate until chilled throughout, at least 2 hours or up to 3 days.
Heat the oven to 350°F. Line a couple of half sheet (13 by 18-inch) pans with parchment paper.
In a food processor, pulse the Beer Nuts until a fine meal forms but before they turn into peanut butter.
Cut the dough lengthwise into 5 even strips. Roll the strips back and forth into logs to round out the edges. Sprinkle the ground Beer Nuts over the work surface and roll the logs in the nuts to coat. Using the top half of your thumb as a guide, cut each log into 8 pieces but keep the log together. (You will get approximately 8 pieces out of each log.) Roll the logs again to round out the edges, then pull the pieces apart and place cut-side up on the prepared pans, evenly spacing up to 20 cookies per pan.
With the tip of your index finger, make an indentation into the center of each cookie. Spoon the jam into the center of each thumbprint.
Bake one pan at a time for 8 minutes. Rotate the pan and bake until the cookies have slight cracks on the top and are set, another 6 to 8 minutes. When ready, the cookies will have set around the edges and the bottoms will be light brown, but the cookies will still be soft. Let cool completely on the pan.
The cookies can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 days or in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 1 week. Dough can be refrigerated for up to 1 week.
HOT FUDGE THUMBPRINTS
makes approximately 54 cookies
A MUG OF HOT chocolate in cookie form, this recipe shows how an untraditional component—hot fudge—can change the way we think about thumbprint cookies. The hook is texture: the creamy hot fudge contrasts with the crunchy sugar used to coat the outside of the cookie. (I use smoked sugar, but
demerara sugar works, too.) The result is one of my most popular thumbprint cookies to date. If you love chocolate, this might become your favorite recipe in this book.
1 cup (8 ounces) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1⅓ cups granulated sugar
1 extra-large egg, at room temperature
1 extra-large egg yolk, at room temperature
2 tablespoons heavy cream
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 cup Dutch-processed cocoa powder
1 teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon sea salt flakes
1 heaping cup smoked sugar or demerara sugar
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, mix the butter briefly on medium speed for 5 to 10 seconds. Add the sugar and beat together until the butter mixture is aerated and pale in color, approximately 4 minutes. Scrape the sides and bottom of the bowl with a rubber spatula to bring the batter together.
Put the egg, yolk, heavy cream, and vanilla into a small cup or bowl.
In a bowl, whisk together the flour, cocoa, and salts.
On medium speed, add the egg and yolk to the butter mixture and mix until the batter resembles cottage cheese, approximately 10 seconds. Scrape the sides and bottom of the bowl with a rubber spatula to bring the batter together. Mix on medium speed for 20 to 30 seconds to make nearly homogeneous.
Add the dry ingredients all at once and mix on low speed. Mix until the dough comes together but still looks shaggy, approximately 30 seconds. Scrape the sides and bottom of the bowl to bring the batter together. Mix for another 10 seconds on medium speed. Remove the bowl from the stand mixer. With a plastic bench scraper, bring the dough completely together by hand.
Transfer the dough to a sheet of plastic wrap and pat into an 8-inch square. Wrap tightly and refrigerate until firm, at least 2 hours or preferably overnight.
Heat the oven to 350°F and line a couple of half sheet (13 by 18-inch) pans with parchment paper.
Cut the dough into 6 even strips. Roll the strips back and forth into logs to round out the edges. Sprinkle the smoked sugar on the work surface and roll the logs in the sugar to coat. Using the top half of your thumb as a guide, cut each log into 9 pieces but keep the log together. Roll the logs again to
round out the edges, then pull the pieces apart and place cut-side up on the prepared pans, evenly spacing up to 20 cookies per pan. With the tip of your index finger, make an indentation in the center of each cookie.
Bake one pan at a time for 8 minutes. Remove the pan from the oven and tap down the centers with the rounded end of a wooden spoon or a cocktail muddler. Rotate the pan and bake until the cookies have slight cracks on the top and are set, another 4 to 6 minutes. When ready, the cookies will have set around the edges and you will be able to gently move them. Let the cookies cool completely on the pan. Repeat with the remaining pan.
Heat the hot fudge briefly in a pot over high heat until the sides start to melt. Stir well, then transfer to a squeeze bottle or have a teaspoon ready.
Once the cookies are completely cool, squeeze enough hot fudge onto the cookies to fill the indentation or spoon the hot fudge into the center. Refrigerate the cookies until the hot fudge has set, approximately 30 minutes.
The cookies can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 days or in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 1 week. Dough can be refrigerated for up to 1 week.
PECAN PRALINE THUMBPRINTS
makes approximately 48 cookies
EVERY TIME MY MOTHER baked nut horns while I was growing up, she made the dough the day before and refrigerated it in a Tupperware container. Late at night I would sneak down into the kitchen and steal some of the dough, which tasted even better in its contraband form. In my professional cookie-making career, I have used my mother’s nut horn dough to make countless cookies. It yields lovely Mexican wedding cookies, but it is especially good as a base for thumbprints.
The center of the thumbprint is a praline, which I cook on the stove as the cookies bake. While the cookies are still warm, I spoon the praline into the indentations and then chill the cookies until the centers have set. I buy toasted and salted pecans. If using unsalted nuts, add a pinch or two more salt. If the nut pieces are very large, run a knife through them before making the praline.
1¾ cups (6 ounces) toasted, salted pecan pieces
¾ cup granulated sugar
1 cup (8 ounces) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
¾ teaspoon kosher salt
¾ teaspoon sea salt flakes
¾ cup (6 ounces) unsalted butter, at room temperature
½ cup maple syrup
½ cup firmly packed light brown sugar
¼ cup firmly packed dark brown sugar
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
½ teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon sea salt flakes
½ cup heavy cream
1¼ cups (4½ ounces) toasted, salted pecan pieces
In a food processor, pulse the pecans and ¼ cup of the granulated sugar until a fine meal forms but before the nuts start to release their oils.
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, mix the butter briefly on medium speed for 5 to 10 seconds. Add the remaining ½ cup granulated sugar and beat together until the butter mixture is aerated and pale in color, approximately 4 minutes. Briefly beat in the vanilla. Scrape the sides and bottom of the bowl with a rubber spatula to bring the batter together.
In a bowl, whisk together the flour and salts. Add the dry ingredients all at once and mix on low speed until the dough comes together but still looks shaggy, approximately 30 seconds. Scrape the sides and bottom of the bowl to bring the batter together. Mix for another 10 seconds on medium speed. Remove the bowl from the stand mixer. With a plastic bench scraper, bring the dough completely together by hand.
Stretch out a long sheet of plastic wrap on a work surface and put the dough on top. Pat into an 8-inch square, using the bench scraper to square off the sides. Wrap tightly and refrigerate until chilled throughout, at least 30 minutes or up to 3 days.
Heat the oven to 350°F. Line a couple of half sheet (13 by 18-inch) pans with parchment paper.
Cut the dough into 6 even strips. Roll the strips back and forth into logs to round out the edges. Using the top half of your thumb as a guide, cut each log into 8 pieces but keep the log together. Roll the logs again to round out the edges, then pull the pieces apart and place cut-side up on the prepared pans, evenly spacing up to 20 cookies per pan. With the tip of your index finger, make an indentation into the center of each cookie.
Bake one pan at a time for 8 minutes. Remove the pan from the oven and tap down the centers with the rounded end of a wooden spoon or a cocktail muddler. Rotate the pan and bake until the cookies have slight cracks on the top and are set, another 4 to 6 minutes. When ready, the cookies will have set around the edges and you will be able to gently move them, but they still will be soft. Let the cookies cool completely on the pan. Repeat with the remaining pan.
While the cookies are baking, start the praline.
In a pot, melt the butter over medium heat. Mix in the maple syrup, sugars, vanilla, and salts and stir until homogeneous. Bring the mixture to a boil and boil for 3 minutes to thicken. Pour in the heavy cream, stirring to combine. Let the mixture reduce for 3 to 4 minutes, or until it lightly coats the back of a spoon. Stir in the nuts. You will have approximately 2½ cups of praline.
While the thumbprints are still warm, use a small spoon to scoop the goopy praline into the centers. (It is okay if some spills over on the sides.) Refrigerate until set, approximately 30 minutes.
The cookies can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 days or in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 1 week. Dough can be refrigerated for up to 1 week.
PEACHES AND CREAM THUMBPRINTS
makes approximately 48 cookies
EVERYTHING DESERVES A schmear once in a while, even cookies. Coated in ground walnuts and baked with a spoonful of peach preserves in the center, this mildly sweet cookie is a good foil for a little creamy decadence. So right before serving, I schmear a dab of sour cream custard across the surface. Do not ignore the custard recipe—it is also excellent as a filling for sandwich cookies or layer cakes. Producing this cookie requires some planning. Make the dough, jam, and custard one or two days before you plan on baking the cookies so you don’t have to wait for ingredients to chill before proceeding.
1 cup (8 ounces) unsalted butter, at room temperature
¾ cup firmly packed light brown sugar
1 extra-large egg, at room temperature
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
¼ cup whole wheat flour
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon sea salt flakes
3 extra-large egg yolks, at room temperature
¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon granulated sugar
½ cup sour cream
2 cups heavy cream
½ vanilla bean, seeds and pod
2 strips of orange rind (removed with a vegetable peeler)
2½ tablespoons (1¼ ounces) unsalted butter, at room temperature
2 cups (7 ounces) toasted, salted walnuts
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, mix the butter briefly on medium speed for 5 to 10 seconds. Add the brown sugar and beat together until the butter mixture is aerated and pale in color, approximately 4 minutes. Scrape the sides and bottom of the bowl with a rubber spatula to bring the batter together.
Crack the egg into a small cup or bowl and add the vanilla.
In a bowl, whisk together the flours and salts.
On medium speed, add the egg to the butter mixture and mix until the batter resembles cottage cheese, approximately 10 seconds. Scrape the sides and bottom of the bowl with a rubber spatula to bring the batter together. Mix on medium speed for 20 seconds to make nearly homogeneous.
Add the dry ingredients all at once and mix on low speed until the dough comes together but still looks shaggy, approximately 30 seconds. Scrape the sides and bottom of the bowl to bring the batter together. Mix for another 10 seconds on medium speed. Remove the bowl from the stand mixer. With a plastic bench scraper, bring the dough completely together by hand.
Stretch out a long sheet of plastic wrap on a work surface and put the dough on top. Pat into an 8-inch square, using the bench scraper to square off the sides. Wrap tightly and refrigerate until chilled throughout, at least 2 hours or up to 3 days.
In a heatproof bowl that fits over a pot for a double-boiler setup (see
“Using a Double Boiler”), whisk the
yolks to break them up. Whisk in the granulated sugar, followed by the sour cream and heavy cream. Stir in the vanilla bean pod and seeds and the orange rind.
Put the bowl over a pot filled with enough water to touch the bottom of the bowl. Bring the pot to a simmer and cook the custard, stirring every 3 minutes with a rubber spatula, until the fat begins to separate (watch the surface; it is a subtle change), approximately 35 minutes.
Remove the bowl from the pot, dry the bottom with a kitchen towel, and whisk in the butter. Strain the custard through a fine-mesh strainer and chill for at least 3 hours or overnight until it is firm like mascarpone. You will have approximately 2 cups, which is more than you need for this recipe. The remaining custard will keep for up to 2 weeks.
Heat the oven to 350°F. Line a couple of half sheet (13 by 18-inch) pans with parchment paper.
In a food processor, pulse the walnuts until a fine meal forms but before their oils start releasing.
Cut the dough lengthwise into 5 even strips. Roll the strips back and forth into logs to round out the edges. Sprinkle the ground nuts over the work surface and roll the logs in the nuts to coat. Using the top half of your thumb as a guide, cut each log into 8 pieces but keep the log together. Roll the logs again to round out the edges, then pull the pieces apart and place cut-side up on the prepared pans, evenly spacing up to 20 cookies per pan. With the tip of your index finger, make an indentation into the center of each cookie.
Spoon the jam into the center of each thumbprint.
Bake one pan at a time for 8 minutes. Rotate the pan and bake until the cookies have slight cracks on the top and are set, another 6 to 8 minutes. When ready, the cookies will have set around the edges and be light golden brown on the bottom, but the cookies will still be soft. Let cool completely on the pan. Repeat with the other pan.
To serve each cookie, take a spoonful of the custard and smear it across the jam.
Without custard on top, the cookies can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 days or in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 1 week. Dough can be refrigerated for up to 1 week.
