Twice-baked cookies—biscotti and mandelbrodt—are my kind of afternoon snack. I don’t drink coffee in the afternoon, but I have been known to slip into a certain coffee chain just for biscotti. They are never too rich or sweet, and they fill you up just enough to tide you over until dinner.
As a pastry chef, I look at these kinds of cookies as a vehicle for texture. I make them with brittle or toffee. I add chopped chocolate and nuts. Or I go crazy in the bulk bins at the grocery store and throw in a million kinds of seeds.
Like most of the recipes in the drop cookie chapter, these cookies start by creaming butter with sugar. I briefly mix in eggs, followed by dry ingredients and any chunky bits. The difference here is that the dough is leaner. Yet like most of the drop cookies, the dough for twice-baked cookies benefits from being refrigerated for several hours, preferably overnight. This makes the dough much more malleable, easier to roll and to shape.
After the dough is refrigerated, I divide it in half and then roll it into logs using the tips of my fingers. If the log starts to break apart while rolling, I just smoosh the pieces back together and continue rolling. Before baking the logs, I brush them with egg whites. A sprinkle of sugar can be good, too. Then they are ready to go into the oven. It is important that the cookies bake all the way through on the first bake. They should be springy to the touch and feel firm but not hard. If they are very soft but are browning too quickly, turn the oven down and continue to bake until the cookies are baked through.
Then it’s time to slice the logs and put the cookies in for the second bake. (This is when I snack on the end pieces.) The second bake isn’t really about baking as much as it is about drying out the cookies. I know they are done when the edges form a light, toasted ring around the center.
There is one recipe in this chapter that is definitely not a cookie—for you and me, that is. These “cookies” are pumpkin biscuits I made for Bill, my wirehaired dachshund. All the dogs at the dog park around the corner from Hot Chocolate went wild for them when I walked over a jar of samples. The cool thing is that I use the same technique as making the other recipes in this chapter—I shape and bake logs, then I slice them. If you happen to have some roast chicken pan drippings or beef juices around, brush them on the biscuits and you will definitely have man’s best friend coming back for seconds.
JULIE’S MANDELBRODT
makes approximately 42 mandelbrodt
MANDELBRODT IS THE JEWISH answer to biscotti. Traditionally, these twice-baked cookies were made with almonds, but the range has widened to include other nuts, dried fruit, and chocolate chips. Because of my Eastern European Jewish heritage, I wanted to include a recipe for mandelbrodt in this book. But oddly enough, I had never made any before. So I sent out a call to family and friends, asking them to submit their best recipes. My college friend Julie Raskie’s chocolate chip mandelbrodt made the cut—everyone seems to love it. I did some professional reworking on it, ribboning in chocolate shards with a plastic bench scraper instead of using chocolate chips to give the dough a cool swirl effect, but the recipe is true to Julie’s original. She is generous with the amount of cinnamon and sugar she rolls the dough in when shaping the logs—and I am, too.
4 ounces bittersweet chocolate (64% to 66% cacao), melted
½ cup (4 ounces) unsalted butter, at room temperature
¾ cup cane sugar
2 extra-large eggs, at room temperature
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon sea salt flakes
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
½ cup granulated sugar
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
Invert a baking sheet and spray it with nonstick cooking spray. Line the top with parchment paper. With an offset spatula, spread the melted chocolate evenly across the parchment. Place the baking sheet in the freezer until firm, approximately 30 minutes.
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, mix the butter briefly on medium speed for 5 to 10 seconds. Add the cane sugar and beat until the butter mixture is aerated and pale in color, approximately 4 minutes. Scrape the sides and bottom of the bowl with a rubber spatula to bring the batter together.
Crack the eggs into a cup or bowl and add the vanilla.
In a bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, salts, and cinnamon.
On medium speed, add the eggs and vanilla to the butter mixture, one egg at a time, mixing the first briefly before adding the second, until the batter resembles cottage cheese, approximately 5 seconds for each egg. Scrape the sides and bottom of the bowl with a rubber spatula to bring the batter together. Mix on medium speed for 20 to 30 seconds to make nearly homogeneous.
Add the dry ingredients all at once and mix on low speed until the dough comes together but still looks shaggy, approximately 30 seconds. Do not overmix. Remove the bowl from the stand mixer. With a plastic bench scraper, bring the dough completely together by hand.
Using a plastic bench scraper, fold the sheet of chocolate into the dough until it is “ribboned” throughout. It will break up into shards.
Transfer the dough to a sheet of plastic wrap, pat into a rectangle, and wrap tightly. Refrigerate at least 2 hours or preferably overnight.
Heat the oven to 350°F. Line a half sheet (13 by 18-inch) pan with parchment paper.
Mix the granulated sugar and cinnamon together.
Divide the dough in half. Roll each half into a log nearly the length of the half sheet pan. Spread the cinnamon sugar across a work surface and roll the logs in the sugar several times. Each log should be generously coated in the sugar. Transfer the logs to the prepared pan and pat down slightly.
Bake, rotating the pan halfway through the baking process, until the tops are firm when pressed, 30 to 35 minutes. Let cool for 20 minutes on the pan. Lower the oven temperature to 300°F.
Transfer the logs to a cutting board. With a serrated knife, cut the logs crosswise while still warm into ¾-inch-thick mandelbrodt. Put the mandelbrodt on the sheet pan side by side so that the cut sides face out (they should fit snugly all on one pan). Bake until lightly golden brown, 20 to 25 minutes. Cool completely on the pan.
The mandelbrodt will keep for up to 2 weeks in an airtight container at room temperature.
CHEESE BOARD BISCOTTI
makes approximately 160 small, crackerlike biscotti
THE BULK BINS AT the enormous Whole Foods a few miles from my restaurant have a magnetic effect on me. It’s seeds and grains galore, and I can’t walk by without bagging a few. This fully loaded recipe makes good use of all of those seeds, nuts, and whole grains. The biscotti are mildly sweet, with a savory edge that pairs well with cheese. Use the same honey here as you would pair with cheese—my choice is wildflower honey. This recipe yields a lot of biscotti, but they are small and I slice them very thin. To make it easier to slice through the seeds, I let the biscotti cool completely—at least 2 hours or overnight—and I use a very sharp serrated knife. If the biscotti soften a few days after baking, retoast them to lengthen their shelf life.
¼ cup oat bran
¼ cup untoasted wheat bran
¼ cup untoasted wheat germ
½ cup (4 ounces) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil or nut oil (such as walnut or hazelnut)
¾ cup cane sugar
¼ cup honey (preferably wildflower)
2 extra-large eggs, at room temperature
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
¾ cup whole wheat flour
1½ teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon sea salt flakes
¼ teaspoon black pepper
¾ cup pepitas
½ cup sliced pitted dates
¼ cup roasted, unsalted sunflower seeds
¼ cup untoasted sesame seeds
¼ cup old-fashioned oats
¼ cup chia seeds
1 extra-large egg white, lightly beaten
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Spread the oat bran, wheat bran, and wheat germ across a rimmed baking sheet and bake until lightly toasted, approximately 6 minutes. Cool to room temperature.
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, mix the butter briefly on medium speed for 5 to 10 seconds. Add the oil and sugar and beat until the butter mixture is aerated and pale in color, approximately 4 minutes. Briefly beat in the honey. Scrape the sides and bottom of the bowl with a rubber spatula to bring the batter together.
Crack the eggs into a cup or bowl and add the vanilla.
In a bowl, whisk together the flours, oat bran, wheat bran, wheat germ, baking powder, baking soda, salts, and pepper. Using your hands, mix in the pepitas, dates, sunflower seeds, sesame seeds, oats, and chia seeds until all of the ingredients are evenly coated in the flour. Be especially cognizant about coating the dates in the dry ingredients.
On medium speed, add the egg mixture to the butter mixture, one egg at a time, mixing the first briefly before adding the second, until the batter resembles cottage cheese, approximately 5 seconds for each egg. Scrape the sides and bottom of the bowl with a rubber spatula to bring the dough completely together by hand. Transfer the dough to a sheet of plastic wrap, pat into a rectangle, and wrap tightly. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours or overnight.
Heat the oven to 350°F. Line a couple of half sheet (13 by 18-inch) pans with parchment paper.
Divide the dough into quarters. Roll each quarter into a log nearly the length of the sheet pan. Transfer two logs to each of the prepared pans and pat down until they are approximately 1 inch thick. Brush the tops and sides with the egg white.
Bake each pan individually, rotating the pan halfway through the baking process, until the tops of the logs are firm when pressed and the bottom is lightly browned, 28 to 30 minutes. Let cool completely on the pans, at least 2 hours or overnight.
Heat the oven to 300°F.
Transfer the logs to a cutting board. With a very sharp serrated knife, cut the logs crosswise into ¼-inch biscotti. Lay the biscotti cut-side down on the sheet pans and bake, one pan at a time, for 15 minutes to dry out the biscotti. Working quickly to avoid burning your fingers, flip the biscotti over and continue to dry out the biscotti in the oven until the edges form a toasted ring but the centers are still light golden, 15 to 20 more minutes. Cool completely on the pan.
The biscotti will keep for up to 2 weeks in an airtight container at room temperature.
CHOCOLATE TOFFEE BISCOTTI
makes approximately 48 biscotti
THIS IS AN UNCONVENTIONAL biscotti. I wanted it to look ugly, crispy in parts, cracked on top, and with toffee pieces oozing out of the sides. In other words, perfectly imperfect and fun. It all works in the flavor department, too. The deep cocoa flavor and the whiskey enhance the almond and chocolate while sea salt brings it all home. This just might be my favorite cookie in this chapter.
½ cup (4 ounces) unsalted butter, at room temperature
¾ cup firmly packed dark brown sugar
2 extra-large eggs, at room temperature
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1 tablespoon whiskey (optional)
2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
½ cup Dutch-processed cocoa powder
1½ teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon baking soda
½ teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon sea salt flakes
1 cup (3 ounces) sliced almonds, lightly toasted
½ cup coarsely chopped dark milk chocolate (39% to 53% cacao)
½ cup coarsely chopped bittersweet chocolate (64% cacao or higher)
1 extra-large egg white, lightly beaten
Granulated sugar, for sprinkling
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, mix the butter briefly on medium speed for 5 to 10 seconds. Add the brown sugar and beat until the butter mixture is aerated and pale in color, approximately 4 minutes. Scrape the sides and bottom of the bowl with a rubber spatula to bring the batter together.
Crack the eggs into a cup or bowl and add the vanilla and whiskey.
In a bowl, whisk together the flour, cocoa powder, baking powder, baking soda, and salts.
On medium speed, add the egg mixture to the butter mixture, one egg at a time, mixing the first briefly before adding the second, until the batter resembles cottage cheese, approximately 5 seconds for each egg. Scrape the sides and bottom of the bowl with a rubber spatula to bring the batter together. Mix on medium speed for 20 to 30 seconds to make nearly homogeneous.
Add the dry ingredients all at once and mix on low speed until the dough comes together but still looks shaggy, approximately 30 seconds. Briefly mix in the almonds, toffee, and chocolates. Remove the bowl from the stand mixer. With a plastic bench scraper, bring the dough completely together by hand. Transfer the dough to a sheet of plastic wrap, pat into a rectangle, and wrap tightly. Refrigerate for at least 4 hours or overnight.
Heat the oven to 350°F. Line a half sheet (13 by 18-inch) pan with parchment paper.
Divide the dough in half. Roll each half into a log nearly the length of the sheet pan. Transfer the logs to the prepared pan and pat down until they are 2½ inches thick. Brush the tops and sides lightly with the egg white. Sprinkle the granulated sugar on top.
Bake, rotating the pan halfway through the baking process, until the tops of the logs are firm when pressed and the bottom is lightly browned, 30 to 35 minutes. Let cool for 20 minutes on the pan. Lower the oven temperature to 300°F.
Transfer the logs to a cutting board. With a serrated knife, cut the warm logs crosswise into ½-inch-thick biscotti. Put the biscotti on the sheet pan side by side so that the cut sides face out (they should fit snugly all on one pan). Bake until the edges are completely dry but the centers are still slightly soft, 20 to 25 minutes. Cool completely on the pan.
The biscotti will keep for up to 2 weeks in an airtight container at room temperature.
AFTER-DINNER GINGER BISCOTTI
makes approximately 48 biscotti
CANDIED GINGER IS DELICIOUSLY gummy, sweet, and spicy. While my husband, Dan, likes to pour himself a glass of Fernet Branca after dinner, I prefer a piece of candied ginger as my digestif—it settles my stomach. In this biscotti, I make a brittle with candied ginger and caramelized white chocolate to mellow its bright, sharp taste. You can make your own caramelized white chocolate or use Dulcey, a caramel white chocolate from Valrhona. Sometimes I dip the ends of the biscotti in melted caramelized white chocolate, but this is optional. The brittle process is the same as the method used to make smoked almond gianduja brittle in the Rocky Road version of
Jill’s Spiced Double-Chocolate Cookies. I use the brittle here to load up these biscotti with texture.
¾ cup candied ginger, sliced
½ cup (4 ounces) unsalted butter, at room temperature
¾ cup firmly packed light muscovado sugar or light brown sugar
2 extra-large eggs, at room temperature
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
2 cups plus 2 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour
1½ teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon baking soda
½ teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon sea salt flakes
1 teaspoon ground ginger
½ teaspoon fennel seeds
Pinch of ground clove
Pinch of ground nutmeg
1 extra-large egg white, lightly beaten
Demerara sugar, for sprinkling
Spray an 8-inch square baking pan (or other small baking pan) with nonstick cooking spray and line it with plastic wrap, leaving a 4-inch overhang on all sides.
In a heatproof bowl set over but not touching barely simmering water in a pot (see
Using a Double Boiler,), melt the Caramelized White Chocolate, stirring occasionally with a rubber spatula. Remove the bowl from the pot, fold the candied ginger into the chocolate, and pour into the prepared baking pan. It does not need to completely cover the base of the baking pan. Cover with the overhanging plastic wrap and refrigerate until firm, approximately 30 minutes.
Invert the brittle onto a cutting board and coarsely chop.
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, mix the butter briefly on medium speed for 5 to 10 seconds. Add the muscovado sugar and beat until the butter mixture is aerated and pale in color, approximately 4 minutes. Scrape the sides and bottom of the bowl with a rubber spatula to bring the batter together.
Crack the eggs into a cup or bowl and add the vanilla.
In a bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, salts, and spices.
On medium speed, add the eggs and vanilla to the butter mixture, one egg at a time, mixing the first briefly before adding the second, until the batter resembles
cottage cheese, approximately 5 seconds for each egg. Scrape the sides and bottom of the bowl with a rubber spatula to bring the batter together. Mix on medium speed for 20 to 30 seconds to make nearly homogeneous.
Add the dry ingredients all at once and mix on low speed until the dough comes together but still looks shaggy, approximately 30 seconds. Do not overmix. Briefly mix in the chopped brittle. Remove the bowl from the stand mixer. With a plastic bench scraper, bring the dough completely together by hand. Transfer the dough to a sheet of plastic wrap, pat into a rectangle, and wrap tightly. Refrigerate for at least 4 hours or overnight.
Heat the oven to 350°F. Line a half sheet (13 by 18-inch) pan with parchment paper.
Let the dough sit at room temperature for 20 minutes. Divide the dough in half. Roll each half into a log nearly the length of the sheet pan. Transfer the logs to the prepared pan and pat down until they are 2½ inches thick. Brush the tops and sides lightly with the egg white. Sprinkle with the demerara sugar.
Bake, rotating the pan halfway through the baking process, until the tops of the logs are firm when pressed and the bottom is lightly browned, 30 to 35 minutes. Let cool for 20 minutes on the pan. Lower the oven temperature to 300°F.
Transfer the logs to a cutting board. With a serrated knife, cut the warm logs crosswise into ½-inch-thick biscotti. Put the biscotti on the sheet pan side by side so that the cut sides face out (they should fit snugly all on one pan). Bake until the edges are uniformly toasted but the centers are still slightly soft, 20 to 25 minutes. Cool completely on the pan.
The biscotti will keep for up to 2 weeks in an airtight container at room temperature.
BILL’S (DOG) BISCUITS
makes approximately 90 small biscuits
MY DOG, BILL, A wirehaired dachshund, has irritable bowel syndrome. Poor guy. So when Bill’s dog nanny, Herb, told me that he mixes pumpkin in with his dog’s food, I had an idea. Pumpkin is full of enzymes that aid doggie digestion, and it provides a lot of vitamins. So I decided to develop a dog biscuit containing pumpkin to settle Bill’s stomach—or at least give him something good to chew on. While working on the recipe, I baked a tray of dog treats (brushed with the drippings left over from roasting chicken bones for stock) and walked out the back door of Hot Chocolate in search of a dog willing to give it a try. It was not hard. Booker, a sweet neighborhood dog, was the first sampler. Once I gained his trust with a pat on the head, he ate it up.
The best way to finish these biscuits is to brush them with the drippings from roasted meat before they go into the oven for the second toasting. Beef, lamb, pork, or chicken drippings are all good. If you have leftover roasted sweet potato, puree it and use it in place of pumpkin.
2½ cups whole wheat flour
3 tablespoons flax seed
2 tablespoons nonfat milk powder
½ teaspoon kosher salt
2 extra-large eggs, at room temperature
1 cup canned pumpkin
¼ cup creamy peanut butter
Meat drippings, for brushing
Heat the oven to 350°F. Line a half sheet (13 by 18-inch) pan with parchment paper.
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, mix the flour, flax seed, milk powder, and salt on low speed.
In a bowl, combine the eggs, pumpkin, and peanut butter. With the mixer on low speed, add the egg mixture. Mix until it feels like Play-Doh.
On a work surface, divide the dough in half. Roll each half into a log nearly the length of the sheet pan. Transfer the logs to the prepared pan and brush with the meat drippings.
Bake until firm and cooked through, approximately 40 minutes. Cool completely on the pan.
Transfer the logs to a cutting board. Using a serrated knife, slice the logs into ¼-inch biscuits. Place cut-side down on 2 sheet pans (the pans do not have to be lined). Brush again with meat drippings and return to the oven. Bake, until the biscuits are completely dry, 16 to 20 more minutes. Cool completely on the pans.
Biscuits can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 weeks or in an airtight container in the freezer for up to 2 months.
