Famed nineteenth-century French gastronome Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin once wrote that “poultry is for the cook what canvas is for the painter.” Its inherently mild flavor takes to myriad methods of seasoning, and it is relatively quick to cook. And, as you’ll discover when cooking the recipes in this chapter, it makes great sausages too. Some of these recipes use chicken, others turkey, but feel free to use the two interchangeably. Turkey gives sausages a slightly more robust flavor.

Look for packages of chicken that do not have an accumulation of liquid in the bottom, which can be a sign that the chicken has been frozen and defrosted. Chicken should be stored in the coldest part of the refrigerator (40°F or below), sealed as it comes from the market and used within 2 or 3 days.

If it should be necessary to keep it longer, freeze it. To defrost, place the frozen chicken it on a plate in the refrigerator or use the microwave, following manufacturer’s instructions. To speed the thawing of uncooked chicken, place package in cold water, changing the water frequently.

Chicken should be rinsed under cold running water when it is removed from the wrapper, and have absolutely no aroma. If it has any off-smells, take it back to the supermarket if it’s before the expiration date, or discard it if it’s after that date or you took it out of the freezer.

Illness-causing bacteria such as salmonella can grow in high-protein, low-acid foods like poultry, so special handling should always be taken with raw chicken or turkey. To prevent transferring bacteria from one food to another, use warm water and soap to wash your hands, cooking utensils, and work surfaces before and after use.

The rules have changed for cooking poultry in the last year, and the revision means that you can avoid overcooked dry chicken and turkey. The minimum temperature is now 165°F for both white and dark meat. At that temperature there’s no chance for microorganisms to survive, and the best way to test this is to use an instant-read meat thermometer. Insert it into the center of the sausage link.