Figuring out how to take care of your clothes properly can be a real head-scratcher when you don’t even know what you’re dealing with in the first place. The handy fabric glossary below covers most everything you’re likely to have in your closet—and is a great resource to consult before you do something to a garment that could damage it irreparably.
A chemically engineered, silky textured fabric made from plant matter, usually wood pulp. Commonly used in linings of coats and dresses; it is lightweight and soft against the skin. Take great care when washing as acetate can shrink and wrinkle very easily. Because of this, it is best sent to dry cleaner.
An artificial textile made from petroleum products, first developed by DuPont in 1950. Usually has a knitted appearance and often used in sweaters, but is not as warm as wool. Resists moth holes, stains, fading, and wrinkling handily. Wash in warm water in your machine or by hand, using fabric softener. A few drops of fabric softener will help fight static cling, something acrylic is known for. Dry at low temperatures because acrylic can melt or scorch easily.
Made from the downy coat of the Angora rabbit. Smooth and silky, it is incredibly warm and often used for sweaters. Many retailers have stopped selling Angora products due to concerns over animal cruelty as rabbits are often plucked. A rest in a humid room such as a bathroom will cause wrinkles to fall out easily. Hand wash and air dry according to methods outlined in chapter 10.
A soft, natural fiber that is naturally bacteria and odor resistant, as well as super absorbent and breathable. Makes great socks, underwear, and casual clothing. Machine washable and dryer safe.
A traditional Indonesian fabric originally created using a wax-resistant dyeing technique. Melted wax is applied to the fabric before it is dipped in dye, resulting in intricate patterns wherever the dye cannot penetrate. Real batik pieces are usually rendered in cotton or silk, and great care should be taken when washing them to protect the dye from running. Hand washing with very cold water and ultragentle detergent is a must, and a color-catching cloth (like the Shout Color Catcher sheet) will help trap and absorb loose dye in the wash water.
BOUCLÉ
Wool bouclé (French for “curled”) is a classic nubby fabric created by wrapping at least two different yarns into a twisted pattern. Bouclé is popularly used in women’s suiting, most notably in styles from the House of Chanel. As almost all suiting pieces are lined, bouclé should be professionally dry-cleaned.
A thick, loom-woven fabric that is usually shot through with gold or silver threads and has a raised pattern. The classic Chinese cheongsam is an example of a brocade garment. Brocade was historically loomed using silk fibers, but most modern-day brocade is of synthetic origin. Silk brocades can be carefully hand washed, but synthetic brocade has a tendency to unravel when agitated, so dry cleaning is safest.
Created when fiber-eating chemicals are painted on velvet fabric. A sheer, negative space remains as a pattern. Usually made of silk or synthetic. Unlike regular velvet, burnout has a very short pile, so treat it as you would any other silk or synthetic fabric, by careful hand washing or dry cleaning.
A thick, warm, luxury material, similar to cashmere. Made from the underwool of the camel. Extremely soft. Usually found in overcoats. Dry-clean lined camel hair jackets for best results.
An extremely heavy-duty, plain woven fabric often used for sails, backpacks, and sneakers. Usually made from cotton or linen. Can stand up to heavy use and repeated high-temperature washing and drying.
CASHMERE
A very warm, lightweight, natural fabric woven from the soft undercoat of the cashmere goat. Prone to pilling due to fibers rubbing together during wear, which can easily be removed with a fabric shaver or disposable razor. Hand wash and air dry according to methods outlined in chapter 10, adding a bit of fabric softener to help fibers retain elasticity.
Chambray originated in the town of Chambrai in northern France and is woven from cotton or synthetic fibers. Usually made using blue and white yarns, chambray has a pale, frosted, denim-like appearance. Machine washable and dryer safe.
A silky fabric with a shiny face and dull back, similar to satin but lighter weight. Usually rayon, but sometimes made of silk. Often used in blouses and cocktail dresses. Hand wash and air dry unlined charmeuse garments according to methods outlined in chapter 10.
A lightweight silk fabric that is extremely sheer and has a slightly rough texture. Unless intricate pleating or folds are present, hand wash and air dry according to methods outlined in chapter 10. Chiffon snags easily and needs diligent, gentle pressing to retain its shape. For these reasons, you may prefer to dry clean.
A ribbed, cotton-blend fabric that is very warm and quite sturdy. The ribs are called “wales” and range in thickness from three to twenty-one ribs per inch. Machine washable and dryer safe
COTTON
A sturdy, natural fiber derived from the cotton plant. Breathable, machine washable, and endlessly comfortable.
A heavy satin fabric that has the crinkled texture of crepe on one side, while the other has a smooth, shiny finish. Often used for formal gowns, as it drapes and hangs beautifully. Best dry-cleaned to protect color and sheen.
A heavy, usually self-patterned woven fabric made from either cotton, linen, silk, or wool and commonly used for draperies and upholstery. Damask’s woven texture is prone to unraveling, so hand washing, gentle cycle laundering, or dry cleaning is a must.
A heavyweight, hardworking, twill cotton weave fabric made with two different colored yarns to produce its signature blue shade. Premium denim should be washed in cold water inside out and air dried to prevent shrinking and fading, but most denim is machine washable and dryer safe.
A double-thick constructed fabric created by two layers of fabric being woven together. Very flattering and smoothing. Can be made of wool, cotton, or polyester. Sometimes has added stretch. Most unlined double knits can be washed in cool water and hung to air dry. Resists wrinkles. Great for traveling.
DUPIONI SILK
A silk fabric that does not separate the worm’s cocoon during the weaving process, creating a slub texture in the fabric. Often used in women’s separates. If colorfast, okay to hand wash as outlined in chapter 10.
Made of synthetic fibers, usually petroleum based, and meant to resemble real fur. Fake fur can be spot cleaned using a baby wipe or “dry cleaned” with cornmeal. Sprinkle a healthy amount of dry, ground cornmeal onto soiled areas, first laying down plastic to catch excess. Work cornmeal into fabric well and allow to sit for several hours. The cornmeal will absorb oil, dirt, and grime. Take garment outdoors and shake vigorously to remove excess cornmeal. Brush carefully with a slicker brush (commonly used to groom cats) to fluff up matted areas and remove any lingering cornmeal. If grime persists, machine wash fake fur pieces inside out in very cold water on delicate cycle using gentle laundry soap, adding a small amount of liquid fabric softener to rinse cycle. Hang to dry and fluff “fur” with slicker brush if necessary.
A dense, matted wool fabric created by rolling or pressing wool fibers with water or heat. Hand wash and air dry as outlined in chapter 10, taking great care to reform felt to original shape after washing, gently stretching if needed to avoid shrinkage.
A tightly woven fabric historically made of wool that resists wrinkling. For the shopper on a budget, polyester gabardine is a good stand-in for wool. Commonly used in suits and slacks. If unlined, gabardine can be hand washed and air dried according to instructions outlined in chapter 10. But fair warning: Wool takes forever and a day to dry.
A somewhat stiff silk fabric that is slightly sheer and has a faint sheen. It folds and drapes beautifully and is often used in wedding gowns. Gazar is one of the few silks that should be exclusively dry cleaned to retain its shape. Not to be confused with organza, a silk fabric that is more sheer.
An airy, lightweight, twisted silk fabric that has a crinkled “broomstick” texture. Georgette feels slightly rough and dull but has a bouncy, flowing look. Can be hand washed and air dried according to instructions outlined in chapter 10.
A cotton knit fabric that usually has a small amount of stretch. Commonly used to make T-shirts, jersey can be machine-washed and tumble dried on low safely. Finer-spun jersey is made of rayon and has a slinkier hand, suitable for dresses, skirts, and tops. Rayon jersey can be hand washed and air dried according to instructions outlined in chapter 10. Rayon jersey is non-wrinkling and excellent for travel.
A fabric made by the weaving together of thin ribbons of metallic yarn made of nylon or polyester. Often used for theatrical costumes or evening wear, lamé threads have a tendency to pull and slip, resulting in frayed areas over time. Lamé is best dry cleaned to maintain shape and prevent “tarnishing” of metallic fibers.
A loose-weave, breathable, durable fabric derived from the flax plant, suitable for very hot climates. Prone to excessive wrinkling, but responds well to either machine or hand washing and air drying. Give linen a quick pressing while still damp to help retain shape. Lined linen pieces should be dry cleaned to ensure lining does not shrink or warp.
A name-brand, synthetic fabric made of metallic yarn, which consists of polyester and a vaporized layer of aluminum. As with any metallic fiber, Lurex should be dry cleaned as infrequently as possible and never ironed.
An exceptionally soft, warm, thin, fine wool that does not itch or scratch when worn close to the skin. Can be hand washed and air dried according to instructions outlined in chapter 10. Too-frequent dry cleaning can dry out and damage merino wool.
A synthetic polyester-based stretchy fiber that is far thinner than a strand of human hair. Commonly used in sweat-wicking workout garments and shapewear. Machine wash and air dry to maintain elasticity, as excessive heat is the enemy of stretch materials.
NYLON
A generic tern for any synthetic fabric made of thermoplastic. Used in slips, sportswear, windbreakers, and track pants. Nylon can be machine washed and tumble dried on medium heat without fear. Nylon melts if exposed to high temperatures.
A thin, sheer, crisp, open-weave silk fabric similar to gazar, yet far more sheer. Commonly used for wedding garments and petticoats. Organza is best dry-cleaned to retain shape and crispness.
PEAU DE SOIE
Dyeable wedding shoes are often made of peau de soie, a heavy-ish weight silken polyester fabric that takes dye evenly and completely. Peau de soie shoes can be carefully hand or machine washed by placing them in a pillowcase for protection and allowing to air dry.
A category of polymer-based fabrics known for their durability, wrinkle-resistant properties, and long wear. Polyester can be safely machine washed and dried on medium heat, but will scorch at high temperatures.
One of the world’s oldest fibers, ramie is a natural fabric made from the China grass crop. It is resistant to mildew, stains, and insect attacks, and launders like a dream in cool or warm water. For best results, machine wash and hang ramie garments to dry (wrinkles will fall out) and store flat. Ramie fibers can be brittle and prone to breaking when left hanging.
Rayon is a manufactured fiber created from regenerated cellulose, also known as wood pulp. As with acetate, rayon has a tendency to shrink and weaken when wet. Hand wash in cool water and lay flat to dry or dry clean infrequently for best results. If pressing is needed, use a warm iron on the wrong side of garment while still damp.
Often used in evening and formal dresses. A heavyweight silk fabric with a glossy, smooth surface and dull back. Hand wash inside out in cool water and allow to air dry for best results.
A thin, puckered, all-cotton fabric commonly used for summer suiting. Usually striped or checkered, with a slight wrinkled appearance. Most seersucker suiting is lined with cotton and can therefore be hand washed and air dried easily. Press seersucker garments carefully to remove large wrinkles yet retain its rumpled charm.
Commonly used in men’s vintage-style suiting and usually made with either acetate or rayon. Sharkskin is created by weaving two different colored threads on the diagonal with pure white fibers. This results in a two-toned, iridescent “sheen” that changes colors depending on the light. Acetate and rayon shrink rapidly when exposed to water, so sharkskin should always be professionally dry cleaned.
SILK
A strong, lustrous fabric produced by harvesting the cocoon of the silk moth caterpillar. Do not fear hand washing silk; it is a protein fiber—just like hair. Treat your silk garments as you would your hair, and you’ll be fine. Hand wash and air dry silk according to the directions in chapter 10. Do not soak longer than 10 minutes, and never spray deodorant or perfume on silk. Silk is prone to perspiration stains, so consider using armpit guards as discussed on this page–this page.
A durable, expandable, synthetic fiber with great elasticity, commonly used in swimsuits, bras, leggings, and exercisewear. Lycra is a brand-name version of spandex, often used in better control undergarments. Lycra and spandex can be machine washed in warm water—and air dries in minutes. Exercise wear made of spandex can tend to hold odors, but a presoak of one cup white vinegar to one gallon cold water for thirty minutes followed by a warm wash will usually eradicate all funk. Never use fabric softener on spandex, as it can build up and leave a coating on garments.
A finely woven, high-quality wool fabric meant for suits, trousers, jackets, and skirts. Suiting pieces are almost always lined and most jackets contain an inner layer of fused fabric or canvas, rendering them dry clean only. Too-frequent dry cleaning can lead to a rough, orange peel texture at a suit jacket’s front. To avoid this phenomenon, wear armpit guards as discussed on this page–this page to keep sweat stains at bay and hang suiting pieces in an area where air can move freely through them to freshen up between wearings.
Taffeta is a crisp, smooth, woven fabric made of rayon. Often used in wedding gowns, bridesmaid dresses, and curtains, rayon has a lustrous, glimmering appearance. Rayon taffeta can lose its crisp texture when exposed to water, so professional dry cleaning is preferable.
A very fine, lightweight netting, which is often starched. Used for veils, ballet tutus, and as embellishment on evening gowns. Tulle tears easily and should always be hand washed. Never put tulle in the dryer; exposure to heat can melt the material.
Tweed is a rough, unfinished, woolen fabric, suitable for informal outerwear due to its moisture resistance and durability. Tweed has been produced for centuries in Scotland and Ireland. It can be carefully hand washed and laid flat to dry as long as there is no lining present. Take the time to reshape freshly washed tweed garments before they dry to prevent shrinkage and never, ever put tweed in the dryer.
Ultrasuede is a brand-name, microfiber fabric meant to be a substitute for suede leather. It has a slight raised nap and lends itself to jackets, sport coats, handbags, and pants. Ultrasuede resists wrinkling, is ultraeasy to care for, and can be machine washed and hung to dry.
A synthetic, plush, knitted fabric with a nap similar to velvet. Often used for casual and leisurewear, velour can be machine washed and tumble dried on medium. Resists wrinkling and pilling. Creases in velour can be removed by light steaming.
Velvet is a plush fabric with a heavy pile and a brilliant sheen. Real velvet is made of silk and should be dry cleaned as infrequently as possible, as both water and excess chemicals can damage its luster. Velveteen is imitation velvet, often made of cotton, and is safe to machine wash and dry on medium heat.
Viscose is a form of rayon fabric that can be machine washed on the gentle cycle in cool water. Viscose becomes weak when wet, so care should be taken not to stretch or stress fibers unnecessarily. Air drying is best.
A soft, thin, sheer fabric meant for summerwear, usually made of cotton or polyester. Most voile is preshrunk, making it machine washable. Low heat or air drying is best to prevent shrinkage. Never use chlorine bleach on voile, as it can rapidly eat through thin fibers.
Virgin wool is simply wool that has not had any processing to remove its natural oils. As a result, it retains some moisture-repellant properties and warmth. Often used for sweaters and socks, virgin wool can usually be hand washed and laid flat to dry, taking care to reshape the garment while still wet. However, wool that has been treated with a finish should be professionally dry cleaned only, as washing can result in shrinkage. Wool items with lining or shoulder pads should never be washed. Protect your wool clothing from moth damage by shaking out and brushing wool pieces periodically, making sure they are clean before storing, as moths are attracted to body oils. Cedar and mothballs are only effective against moths when their odor is quite strong. Wearing an undershirt beneath wool pieces cuts down on the need for laundering and most stains can be removed with a stiff bristle brush. Pills on wool can safely be dispersed using a fabric shaver or disposable razor.