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Top Reasons to Go | Getting Oriented | Planning
Updated by Amy Fletcher
Southeast Alaska stretches down from the rest of the state like the tail of a kite. It is a world of soaring glaciers, steep-shouldered islands, cliff-rimmed fjords, and snowcapped peaks. Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve, one of the region’s most prized attractions, is home to the largest concentration of coastal glaciers on earth.
Lush stands of spruce, hemlock, and cedar blanket thousands of islands. The region’s myriad bays, coves, lakes, and swift, icy rivers provide some of the continent’s best fishing grounds. Many of Southeast Alaska’s wildest and most pristine landscapes are within Tongass National Forest, composed of nearly 17 million acres—almost three-quarters of the Panhandle’s land.
Southeast lacks only one thing: connecting roads. The lack of pavement between the area’s communities presents obvious challenges to four-wheeled transport. The isolation and the wet weather keep people from moving in; otherwise Southeast Alaska would probably be as densely populated as Seattle. To help remedy the transportation question, Alaskans created the Alaska Marine Highway System, a network of passenger and vehicle ferries, some of which have staterooms, observation decks, video theaters, arcades, cafeterias, cocktail lounges, and heated, glass-enclosed solariums.
Southeast’s natural beauty and abundance of wildlife have made it one of the world’s fastest-growing cruise destinations. About 25 big cruise ships ply the Inside Passage—once the traditional route to the Klondike goldfields and today the centerpiece of many Alaska cruises—during the height of summer. A number of smaller ships—some locally owned—also cruise through. Regular air service to Southeast is available from the Lower 48 states and other parts of Alaska.
Three groups of Native peoples inhabit Southeast coastal region: the Tlingit (klink-it), Haida, and Tsimshian (sim-shee-ann). Because their cultures were once in danger of being lost, there’s an ever-growing focus in Southeast on preserving Native traditions and teaching visitors about their history. Efforts are underway in many towns to teach the often tricky-to-master Native languages in schools and through other programs. Visitors to Southeast benefit from these programs, since local teens often work as guides at cultural institutions. The Tlingit, Haida, and Tsimshian, like their coastal neighbors in British Columbia, have rich traditions of totemic art, including carved poles, masks, baskets, and ceremonial objects. At villages like Klukwan, outside of Haines, there’s been a push to help residents learn these art forms and keep them alive for generations to come.
Residents—some from other states, some who can trace their ancestors back to the gold-rush days, and some whose ancestors came over the Bering Land Bridge from Asia thousands of years ago—are an adventurous bunch. The rough-and-tumble spirit of Southeast often combines with a worldly sophistication: those who fish for a living might also be artists, Forest Service workers may run a bed-and-breakfast on the side, and homemakers may be Native dance performers.
Southeast Panhandle stretches some 500 miles from Yakutat at its northernmost point to Ketchikan and Metlakatla at its southern end. At its widest point, the region measures only 140 miles, and in the upper Panhandle just south of Yakutat, at 30 miles across, it’s downright skinny by Alaska standards. Most of the Panhandle consists of a sliver of mainland buffered on the west by islands and on the east by the imposing peaks of the Coast Mountains.
Those numerous coastal islands—more than 1,000 throughout the Inside Passage—collectively constitute the Alexander Archipelago. Most of them present mountainous terrain with lush covers of timber, though large clear-cuts are also common. Most communities are on islands rather than on the mainland. The principal exceptions are Juneau, Haines, and Skagway, plus the hamlets of Gustavus and Hyder. Island outposts include Ketchikan, Wrangell, Petersburg, Sitka, and the villages of Craig, Pelican, Metlakatla, Kake, Angoon, and Hoonah. Bordering Alaska just east of the Panhandle lies the Canadian province of British Columbia.
Top Reasons to Go
Native art and culture: Ancestral home of the Tlingit, Haida, and Tsimshian, Southeast is dedicated to preserving Native heritage. Native crafts include totem poles and masks.
Rivers of ice: Visitors relish the opportunity to walk on Southeast’s accessible glaciers or to admire them on flightseeing or kayak trips.
Tongass National Forest: America’s largest national forest is home to bears, bald eagles, Sitka black-tailed deer, wolves, and marine mammals.
Fishing nirvana: Southeast is an angler’s paradise. The region’s healthy populations of salmon and halibut—as well as the wealth of charter boats and fishing lodges—make this a premier fishing destination.
Taking the ferry: The Alaska Marine Highway is the primary means of transportation here. It’s a low-cost, high-adventure alternative to cruising, and an easy way to spend time talking to Alaskans.
Getting Oriented
As remote as it is, Southeast Alaska shares a few traits with heavily populated regions. It has skyscrapers (the towering peaks of the Coast Range), traffic jams (try to swim through a salmon creek in midsummer), and sprawl (the rain forests cover hundreds of thousands of acres). The area’s settlements offer plenty of attractions, from Skagway’s flashy gold-rush delights to Glacier Bay’s isolated fjords.
Ketchikan and Vicinity. The self-proclaimed “Salmon Capital of the World,” Ketchikan is the doorway to Southeast. Be sure to check out the area’s charter-fishing opportunities and wealth of local art. Ketchikan is a jumping-off point for Misty Fiords National Monument and visits to the Indian community of Metlakatla.
Wrangell and Petersburg. These towns provide access to the magnificent Stikine River. Wrangell, which welcomes some of the smaller cruise ships, is the primary hub for those who want to travel to the Anan Bear & Wildlife Observatory to see both brown and black bears fishing for salmon. Petersburg has a vibrant fishing community and stellar access to fishing, whale-watching, and hiking.
Sitka. With its mixed history of Tlingit, Russian, and American rule, Sitka is home to a lively community, an excellent park system (including Sitka National Historical Park), and outdoor activities. It’s a must-see for anyone traveling in Southeast and a must-paddle for kayakers of all experience levels.
Juneau and Vicinity. Cruise passengers flock by the hundreds of thousands to take in the state capital’s historic charm, artsy community, and natural beauty, including world-famous Mendenhall Glacier. But with a number of hotels and B&Bs, Juneau also welcomes independent travelers. The city is also the access point for surrounding attractions, including Admiralty Island National Monument, home to Southeast’s largest population of brown bears.
Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve. Southeast’s signature attraction, Glacier Bay is home to the continent’s largest collection of tidewater glaciers, which make for incredible viewing. The park’s remote, undeveloped location—Gustavus, the closest town, isn’t really a town at all—ensures that travelers in search of quiet repose will not be disappointed.
Haines and Skagway. The northern outposts of the Inside Passage, these two towns seem to have it all. Haines, on stunning Chilkat Peninsula, is home to fishermen, helicopter-skiing guides, and eagle aficionados who flock to the nearby Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve. Just down the road from Klukwan, a village 22 miles outside of Haines, visitors can learn about Tlingit culture. Skagway has gorgeous scenery, an incredible railway, and a boisterous gold-rush history.
Planning
When to Go
The best time to visit is from May through September, when weather is mildest, rain is less frequent, daylight hours are longest, wildlife is most abundant, and festivals and visitor-oriented activities are in full swing. But remember: Southeast sits in a rain forest, so rain can rule the day. There’s a reason why XtraTuf waterproof boots are nicknamed “Southeast sneakers.” Summertime high temperatures hover around the low to mid-60s, with far warmer days interspersed throughout. Shoulder-season temperatures are cooler, and the region is less crowded. Bring rain gear, layered clothing, sturdy footwear, a hat, and binoculars.
Allow yourself at least a week here. Plenty of adventures await ambitious independent travelers who plan ahead and ride state ferries.
If strolling through downtown shopping districts and museum-hopping is your idea of a perfect afternoon, journey to Ketchikan, Juneau, Skagway, Sitka, or Petersburg. For a wilderness experience in a peaceful, remote location, consider booking a multiple-night stay at one of Southeast’s remote fly-in lodges.
Getting Here and Around
Air Travel
Southeast Alaska is best explored by ship or plane.
Alaska Airlines. Alaska Airlines operates several flights daily from Seattle and other Pacific Coast and Southwestern cities to Ketchikan, Wrangell, Petersburg, Sitka, Glacier Bay, and Juneau. The carrier also connects Juneau to the northern Alaska cities of Yakutat, Cordova, Anchorage, Fairbanks, Nome, Kotzebue, and Prudhoe Bay. | 800/252–7522 | www.alaskaair.com.
Unless your destination is Haines, Skagway, or Hyder, forget about driving to Southeast. Cars don’t do much for travelers, as roads typically run just a few miles out from towns and villages, then dead-end. Many people elect to transport their vehicles (and themselves) via the ferries of the Alaska Marine Highway System. Serious cyclists bring their bikes along. Visitor information centers are generally open mid-May through August, daily 8 to 5, with additional hours when cruise ships are in port; between September and mid-May they’re typically open weekdays 8 to 5.
Flightseeing
There’s no better way to view Southeast’s twisting channels, towering mountains, and gleaming glaciers than from one of the region’s many small-aircraft flights.
At least four services offer daily flights between Southeast’s larger towns—Juneau, Haines, Skagway, Ketchikan, Sitka, Petersburg, and Wrangell—in addition to the bevy of helicopter flightseeing services that specialize in short, scenic flights. Tops among the fixed-wing carriers are Air Excursions (800/354–2479 | www.airexcursions.com) and Wings of Alaska (907/789–0790 | www.wingsofalaska.com), both of which offer connecting flights and scenic air tours of Southeast landmarks.
Best Bets for Different Travelers
For cruise travelers:
Get up close and personal with the sea life in Ketchikan with Snorkel Alaska
Kayak across Mendenhall Lake at the beginning or end of your cruise
For those traveling with kids:
Take the tram up Mt. Roberts in Juneau
Explore Skagway’s Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park
Dog sled on Denver Glacier, outside Skagway, or Juneau’s Mendenhall Glacier
For travelers interested in luxury, but who still want an authentic Alaska experience:
Stay in McFarland’s Floatel: all the seclusion of a beachfront cabin, plus the security of a main resort building floating right in the bay
Fly out to Waterfall Resort, out of Ketchikan, one of the most luxurious remote fishing lodges in the state
For those who want to see wildlife up close in their natural habitat:
Visit Anan Wildlife Observatory, which many argue is the best bear-viewing spot in the state—in terms of both proximity and quantity
Flying between destinations in Southeast—while significantly more expensive—is an experience you won’t forget. If your itinerary includes an extra day or two in Southeast (particularly in Juneau), consider spending a day flying to and from a neighboring community. Round-trip tickets from Juneau to Skagway, for instance, start at around $250, as compared to approximately $170 for a one-hour flightseeing trip in and around Juneau.
A host of floatplane services offer access to remote cabins and remote freshwater fishing destinations. Check out Southeast Aviation (888/359–6478 | www.flymisty.com) for flight details.
Cruise and Ferry Travel
Southeast Alaska includes a number of popular ports of call for cruise ships. For those looking to avoid cruise travel or for more flexibility, the Alaska Marine Highway (907/465–3941 or 800/642–0066 | www.ferryalaska.com) allows you to construct an itinerary that is all your own; it’s quite popular with budget-conscious, adventurous visitors. Ferry ports of call and landings in Southeast include Yakutat, Skagway, Haines, Pelican, Gustavus, Juneau, Hoonah, Tenakee, Angoon, Sitka, Kake, Petersburg, Wrangell, Ketchikan, and Metlakatla.
Health and Safety
Southeast is, as we’ve mentioned, wet. Make sure you bring raingear. No sense catching cold on vacation. Also, if you’re new to catching seafood, consider hiring a guide to help you find the safest spots—Alaska’s waters are powerful. Also, don’t rent a boat and go out solo—even in a skiff—if you don’t have boating experience. Shifts in weather, tides, and lots of other factors can turn a pleasant kayaking experience into something far less fun.
Money Matters
While most towns—especially the cruise ship-heavy towns—are loaded with ATMs, it doesn’t hurt to have some cash in your wallet, especially if you’re visiting some of the smaller towns of Prince of Wales Island.
Restaurants
From scallops to king salmon, fresh seafood dominates menus in Southeast. Juneau, Sitka, and Ketchikan all have a variety of ethnic eateries, along with notable gourmet restaurants. Many towns also have good greasy spoons or roadhouses where you can get a serving of local gossip along with your breakfast or slice of pie. Prices in the reviews are the average cost of a main course at dinner or, if dinner is not served, at lunch.
Hotels
Lodging choices along the Inside Passage range from remote Forest Service cabins to top-end hotels. In general, the latter are a pricey option, but rates drop in the off-season (mid-September to mid-May).
Budget travelers will find hostels in many of the larger towns. Fine hotels are found in Ketchikan and Juneau, and luxurious fishing lodges attract anglers on Prince of Wales Island and in other places in Southeast. Bed-and-breakfasts are also popular in the Inside Passage. Prices in the reviews are the lowest cost of a standard double room in high season.
Cabins
U.S. Forest Service Cabins. Tongass National Forest has more than 150 rustic sites with cabins. The cabins make for a charming and cheap escape (up to $45 per night per cabin). Popular with local Alaskans and return visitors, many cabins book up long before summer arrives. TIP Reserve in person, by mail, or online with the National Recreation Reservation System; in some cases nominal service fees may be charged for cancellations. If you haven’t arranged a cabin before hitting town, check at the local Forest Service office; there’s a good chance of finding something, although it may not be in one of the most popular locations. Still, every view in Alaska is great. Most are reached by floatplane or boat, but some are accessible by road. They offer bunks for six to eight occupants, tables, stoves, and outdoor privies—but no electricity or running water. You provide your own sleeping bag, food, and cooking utensils. Bedside reading in most cabins includes a diary kept by visitors—add your own adventure. | 877/444–6777 reservations | www.recreation.gov.
But the U.S. Forest Service isn’t the only cabin rental game in Southeast.
Alaska State Parks. Near Ketchikan and Juneau, Alaska State Parks has a small number of cabins. Again, reservations can be made up to six months in advance. Cabins vary in size, with sleeping capacity ranging from 3 to 10 people. For more information or to reserve a cabin online, contact the Department of Natural Resources Public Information Center in Anchorage. | www.dnr.alaska.gov/parks/cabins/index.htm.
Equipment Rental
A few local outfitters rent cabin supplies, including cooking utensils, to travelers. Annahootz Alaskan Adventures in Sitka can outfit you with cabin supplies from lighters and matches to pots and pans. Alaska Wilderness Outfitting in Ketchikan rents cabin supplies like cooking utensils, Coleman stoves, coolers, knives, and hot pads.
Contacts
Annahootz Alaskan Adventures.
Sitka | 99835 | 907/747–2608 | www.annahootz.com/gear.php.
Alaska Wilderness Outfitting.
3857 Fairview Ave. | Ketchikan | 99901 | 907/225–7335 | www.latitude56.com/camping/index.html.
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