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Misty Fiords National Monument | Metlakatla | Hyder | Prince of Wales Island

Misty Fiords National Monument

40 miles east of Ketchikan by air.

Misty Fiords National Monument.
Just east of Ketchikan, Misty Fiords National Monument is a wilderness of cliff-faced fjords (or fiords, if you follow the monument’s spelling), mountains, and islands with spectacular coastal scenery, wildlife, and recreation. Small boats provide views of breathtaking vistas. Travel on these waters can be an almost mystical experience, with the green forests reflected in the waters of the monument’s many fjords. You may find yourself in the company of a whale, see a bear fishing for salmon along the shore, or even pull in your own salmon for an evening meal. TIP Note that the name Misty refers to the weather you’re likely to encounter.

Alaska Travel Adventures. Most visitors to Misty Fiords arrive on day trips via floatplane from Ketchikan or on board catamarans run by Alaska Travel Adventures. | 800/323–5757, 907/247–5295 outside Alaska | www.bestofalaskatravel.com.

Allen Marine Tours. This company offers tours of Misty Fiords. | 907/225–8100, 877/686–8100 | www.allenmarinetours.com.

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Metlakatla

12 miles south of Ketchikan.

The village of Metlakatla—the name translates roughly as “saltwater passage”—is on Annette Island, just a dozen miles by sea from busy Ketchikan but a world away culturally. A visit to this quiet community offers visitors a chance to learn about life in a small Inside Passage Native community.

In most Southeast Native villages the people are Tlingit or Haida in heritage. Metlakatla is the exception, as most folks are Tsimshian. They moved to the island from British Columbia in 1887, led by William Duncan, an Anglican missionary from England. The town grew rapidly and soon contained dozens of buildings on a grid of streets, including a cannery, a sawmill, and a church that could seat 1,000 people. Congress declared Annette Island a federal Indian reservation in 1891, and it remains the only reservation in Alaska today. Father Duncan continued to control life in Metlakatla for decades, until the government finally stepped in shortly before his death in 1918.

During World War II the U.S. Army built a major air base 7 miles from Metlakatla that included observation towers for Japanese subs, airplane hangars, gun emplacements, and housing for 10,000 soldiers. After the war it served as Ketchikan’s airport for many years, but today the long runways are virtually abandoned save for a few private flights.

Getting Here and Around

The Alaska Marine Highway System offers daily ferry service from Ketchikan to Metlakatla and back. If you prefer to arrive from above, ProMech Air has scheduled floatplane flights between Ketchikan and outlying communities including Metlakatla and Prince of Wales Island. Run by the Metlakatla community, Metlakatla Tours leads local tours that include visits to Duncan Cottage, the cannery, and the longhouse, along with a Tsimshian dance performance. Local taxis can take you to other sights around the island, including Yellow Hill and the old Air Force base.

Essentials

Airplane Contact

Pacific Airways.
907/225–3500, 877/360–3500 | www.flypacificairways.com.

ProMech Air.
907/225–3845, 800/860–3845 | www.promechair.com.

Ferry Contact

Alaska Marine Highway System.
907/465–3941, 800/642–0066 | www.dot.state.ak.us/amhs.

Tour Information

Metlakatla Tours.
907/886–8687 | www.metlakatla.com.

Exploring Metlakatla

Longhouse.
Father Duncan worked hard to eliminate traditional Tsimshian beliefs and dances, but today the people of Metlakatla have resurrected their past; they perform old dances in traditional regalia. The best place to catch these performances is at the traditional longhouse (known as Le Sha’as in the Tsimshian dialect), which faces Metlakatla’s boat harbor. Three totem poles stand on the back side of the building, and the front is covered with a Tsimshian design. Inside are displays of native crafts and a model of the fish traps that were once common throughout the Inside Passage. Native dance groups perform here on Wednesday and Friday in summer. Just next to the longhouse is an Artists’ Village, where booths display locally made arts and crafts. The village and longhouse open when groups and tours are present.

William Duncan Memorial Church.
Metlakatla’s religious heritage still shows today. The clapboard William Duncan Memorial Church, topped with two steeples, burned in 1948 but was rebuilt several years later. It is one of nine churches in tiny Metlakatla. Father Duncan’s Cottage is maintained to appear exactly as it would have in 1891, and includes original furnishings, personal items, and a collection of turn-of-the-20th-century music boxes. | Corner of 4th Ave. and Church St. | 99926 | 907/886–8687 | www.metlakatla.com | $2 | Weekdays 8:30–12:30, or when cruise ships are in port.

Yellow Hill.
Two miles from town is a boardwalk path that leads up the 540-foot Yellow Hill. Distinctive yellow sandstone rocks and panoramic vistas make this a worthwhile detour on clear days. | 99926

Where to Stay in Metlakatla

Metlakatla Inn.
$ | RENTAL | This two-story building, decorated with Native art, offers standard motel accommodations with private decks off the upstairs rooms. The restaurant is no longer open to the public, but inn guests can still get three meals a day from the kitchen. Each room has a 32-inch flat-screen TV. Vehicle and truck rentals are available for guests. Pros: property has recently been renovated; car rental available on-site. Cons: guests share the same phone line; property lacks charm. TripAdvisor: “great place to stay,” “very nice and cozy,” “what Metlakatla is like.” | Rooms from: $99 | 3rd Ave. and Lower Milton St. | 99926 | 907/886–3456 | www.metlakatlainn.com | 9 rooms, 2 apartments | No meals.

Tuck’em Inn.
$ | B&B/INN | This family-run lodging occupies two separate downtown houses. Rooms are functional, with down comforters, quilts, and access to a kitchen and sitting room. A make-it-yourself continental breakfast is included. Be sure to ask about bedding and bathroom arrangements, as some rooms feature twin beds and shared bathrooms. The property’s restaurant is open six days a week for lunch and dinner. Pros: convenient location; breakfast included. Cons: some rooms share bathrooms; rooms don’t have much personality. | Rooms from: $99 | Hillcrest Rd. and Western Ave. | 99926 | 907/886–1074 | www.alaskanow.com/tuckem-inn | 6 rooms | Breakfast.

Hyder

90 miles northeast of Ketchikan.

The tiny, nondescript town of Hyder sits at the head of narrow Portland Canal, a 70-mile-long fjord northeast of Ketchikan. The fjord marks the border between Canada and the United States, and Hyder sits just 2 miles from the larger town of Stewart, British Columbia. TIP It’s also one of the few Southeast settlements accessible by paved road.

The 1898 discovery of gold and silver in the surrounding mountains brought a flood of miners to the Hyder area, and the town eventually became a major shipping port. Mining remained important for decades, but a devastating 1948 fire destroyed much of the town, which had been built on pilings over the water. A small amount of mining still takes place here, but the beauty of the area, while not any more interesting than Ketchikan, attracts a respectable number of tourists. Today Hyder calls itself “the friendliest ghost town in Alaska,” a claim that may be based more on marketing than reality.

Getting Here and Around

From Stewart, in Canada, Highway 37A continues over spectacular Bear Pass to Hyder and connects the town with the rest of Canada. Taquan Air has year-round service between Ketchikan and Hyder every Monday and Thursday.

Essentials

Airplane Contact

Taquan Air.
4085 Tongass Ave. | Ketchikan | 99901 | 907/225–8800, 800/770–8800 | www.taquanair.com.

Visitor and Tour Information

Stewart-Hyder Chamber of Commerce. | 250/636–9224, 888/366–5999 | www.stewart-hyder.com.

Exploring Hyder

Bear Glacier.
Twenty-five miles east of Stewart on Highway 37A is the imposing Bear Glacier. The glacier sits across a small lake that is often crowded with icebergs.

Fish Creek Wildlife Observation Site.
Six miles north of Hyder on Salmon River Road is the Fish Creek Wildlife Observation Site. From late July to early September, a large run of salmon attracts black and brown bears, which, in turn, attract more than a few photographers. The creek produces some of the largest chum salmon anywhere.

Glacier Inn.
Getting “Hyderized” (which involves drinking and drinking-related silliness) is a term that you will hear upon arrival in the area. You can get Hyderized at Glacier Inn, where the walls are papered with thousands of signed bills. The tradition supposedly began when prospectors would tack a dollar bill on the wall in case they were broke when they returned. | Main St. | 99923 | 250/636–9248.

Salmon Glacier.
A dirt road from Hyder into Canada leads 17 miles to remote Salmon Glacier, one of the few glaciers accessible by road in Southeast Alaska. | 99923

Stewart Historical Society Museum.
Housed in the town’s former fire hall, the Stewart Historical Society Museum contains wildlife displays and exhibits on the region’s mining history. Pop-culture buffs will enjoy movie props from films made in the area, including Insomnia. | 603 Columbia St. | Stewart, British Columbia, Canada | V0T 1W0 | 250/636–2568 | www.stewart-hyder.com/community.html | $5 | May, June, and Sept., weekends 10–6; July and Aug., daily 10–6.

Where to Stay in Hyder

Ripley Creek Inn.
$$ | HOTEL | Stewart’s best lodging option covers five historic downtown buildings. All rooms are bright, with Mission-style and antique furnishings; some also include sofa beds, decks, and glacier views. The main building also houses Toastworks Museum, a repository of antique toasters and other kitchen gadgets. Guests have free access to bicycles for exploring the small mining town. Pros: nice decks and views from rooms. Cons: somewhat noisy; not much to do in immediate area. TripAdvisor: “nice rooms with unique views,” “a place you’ll never forget,” “comfortable and quirky.” | Rooms from: $95 | 306 5th Ave. | Stewart, British Columbia, Canada | V0T 1W0 | 250/636–2344 | www.ripleycreekinn.com | 32 rooms | No meals.

Prince of Wales Island

43 miles northwest of Ketchikan.

Prince of Wales Island stretches more than 130 miles from north to south, making it the largest island in Southeast Alaska. Only two other American islands—Kodiak in Alaska and Hawaii in the Hawaiian chain—are larger. Prince of Wales (or “P.O.W.” as locals call it) has a diversity of landforms, a plethora of wildlife, and exceptional sportfishing, especially for steelhead, salmon, and trout anglers, with the Karta and Thorne rivers among the favorites.

The island has long been a major source of timber, both from Tongass National Forest lands and those owned by Native corporations. While much of the Native land has been cut over, environmental restrictions on public lands have greatly reduced logging activity. The island’s economy is now supported by small-scale logging operations, tourism, and commercial fishing.

Approximately 5,500 people live full-time on Prince of Wales Island, scattered in small villages and towns. A network of 1,500 miles of roads—nearly all built to access clear-cuts—crisscrosses the island, providing connections to even the smallest settlements.

Getting Here and Around

The Inter-Island Ferry Authority operates a daily vehicle and passenger ferry between Ketchikan and Prince of Wales Island. The ferry terminal is in the tiny settlement of Hollis, 31 miles from Craig on a paved road.

Paved roads link Craig and Hollis. The relative abundance of roads, combined with ferry and air access from Ketchikan, makes it easy to explore this island. It’s a shame that more people don’t do so.

Essentials

Ferry Information

Inter-Island Ferry Authority. | 907/530–4848 or 866/308–4848 | www.interislandferry.com.

Visitor Information

Prince of Wales Chamber of Commerce. | 907/775–2626 | www.princeofwalescoc.org.

Exploring Prince of Wales Island

Craig.
The primary commercial center for Prince of Wales is Craig, on the island’s western shore. This town of 1,200 retains a hard-edged aura fast disappearing in many Inside Passage towns, where tourism now holds sway. Although sightseeing attractions are slim, the town exudes a frontier spirit, and its small-boat harbors buzz with activity. | Craig | 99921.

El Capitan Cave.
A number of large natural caverns pockmark northern Prince of Wales Island. The best known of these, El Capitan Cave, has one of the deepest pits in the United States and is open to the public. Paleontologists have found a wealth of black bear, brown bear, and other mammal fossils in the cave’s 13,000 feet of passageways, including some that date back more than 12,000 years. The Forest Service leads free El Capitan tours several times a week in summer. Tours take about two hours. It takes some work to get to the mouth of the cave but, if you’re up for a 1,100-foot hike up a 367-step stairway, it’s well worth the effort. The rangers don’t rush and give visitors plenty of time to catch their breath along the way by discussing the intensely lush forest that surrounds the cave area. Reservations are required at least two days in advance, and no children under age seven are permitted. Bring a flashlight and wear hiking boots or rubber boots. A light jacket is also helpful, as the cave gets quite cool. | Mile 51 along North Prince of Wales Rd. | Prince of Wales Island | 99925 | 907/828–3304.

Hydaburg.
The Haida village of Hydaburg, approximately 40 miles south of Klawock (via chip-sealed road), lies along scenic Sukkwan Strait. A small collection of totem poles occupies the center of this Haida settlement, the only one in Alaska. Originally from British Columbia’s Queen Charlotte Island, the Haida settled here around 1700. | Hydaburg | 99922.

Klawock.
A half-dozen miles from Craig is the Tlingit village of Klawock, with a sawmill, cannery, hatchery, and the island’s only airport. The town is best known for its striking totem poles in Totem Park. Several of these colorful poles were moved here in the 1930s; others are more recent carvings. You can watch carvers restoring old totems at the carving shed, across the road from the grocery store.

Along the bay you’ll find St. John’s by the Sea Catholic Church, with stained-glass windows picturing Native Alaskans. | Klawock | 99925 | 907/755–2345.

Prince of Wales Hatchery. Klawock is also home to Prince of Wales Hatchery, one of the state’s most effective hatcheries. It’s open for summertime tours ($2) and it also has a small visitor center with an aquarium full of young coho salmon. | Craig | 99921 | 907/755–2231 | www.powha.org | Weekdays 8:30-4:30.

Where to Stay in Prince of Wales Island

Inn of the Little Blue Heron.
$ | B&B/INN | With sweeping water views, cozy rooms, and outdoor decks tailored for simultaneous coffee drinking and wildlife viewing, the Little Blue Heron is a favorite among regular visitors to Craig. Two locations in town cater to your desired luxury factor: the South Cove Boat Harbor outpost features four small but well-appointed rooms (two with water views), while the Bucareli Bay Suite offers two spacious rooms with unimpeded bay views, queen-size Tempur-Pedic mattresses, and satellite TV. Pros: both locations offer wireless Internet; can rent out whole inn or suite for large groups. Cons: rooms at the South Cove location are small. | Rooms from: $79 | 406 9th St. and 403 Beach Rd. | Craig | 99921 | 907/826–3608 | www.littleblueheroninn.com | 6 rooms, 1 suite | Breakfast.

McFarland’s Floatel.
$$$$ | B&B/INN | At this quiet resort 2 miles across the bay from the logging town of Thorne Bay on the eastern side of Prince of Wales, each of the four beachfront log cabins sleeps up to six people and includes a loft, woodstove, full kitchen, and private bath. A 200-foot walkway leads to the floating main lodge, which was built in Ketchikan but floated by raft to its present location in 1981. The lodge now acts as a gathering place for Floatel guests and visitors. A bait and food store is also on the property. Co-owner Jeannie McFarland teaches basketry workshops and sells her pine-needle raffia baskets here. The McFarlands can help you book a charter-fishing trip, or you can rent a skiff and fishing gear and head out on your own. The property is accessible by floatplane, private boat, or road from the ferry terminal. Pros: nightly rate covers up to four guests; quiet setting. Cons: restaurant is open only to hotel guests; location is remote. | Rooms from: $295 | 907/828–3335, 888/828–3335 | www.mcfarlandsfloatel.com | 4 cabins | Closed Oct.–mid-Apr.

Rock Haven.
$$$$ | B&B/INN | A few minutes’ boat ride from the shores of the fishing-centric Coffman Cove, Rock Haven is instant peace and relaxation. Walk up a slightly steep incline to the lodge and you’ll be tempted to stay put forever. Owners Ellen and Dan live on the property year-round—and it’s clear that they love welcoming guests to it. The lodge’s three guest rooms are comfortably decorated with plush beds and wooden furniture. The impressive main room features rich woods, leather furniture that invites long reading sessions, and views out to the water. Several packages are available, including fishing, adventures, and all meals. Consider booking a full meal plan, as Ellen is a wonderful cook; you won’t go hungry. A cookie jar is always filled with fresh-baked treats. Don’t even think of refusing; you’ll only be hurting yourself. Pros: stunning setting; owners clearly enjoy running a lodge; lodge pets are a friendly bunch. Cons: there’s no way to just pop out for a quick bite to eat; even if the property weren’t a boat ride from Coffman Cove, the town doesn’t offer much in the way of restaurants; you need to be handy with a skiff if you want to motor out to the lodge on your own—there are some widowmaker rocks in the water. | Rooms from: $2890 | Across bay | Coffman Cove | 99918 | 907/329–2003 | www.rockhavenalaska.com | 3 rooms, 1 one-bedroom apartment with kitchenette.

Ruth Ann’s Hotel.
$ | HOTEL | Victorian-style furnishings and details flavor this tasteful gingerbread hotel. The honeymoon suite includes a double shower, large hot tub, and kitchenette. Across the street, the popular Ruth Ann’s Restaurant serves home-style food with seafood and steaks at dinner, and burgers, sandwiches, and fish-and-chips at lunch. Ask for a table in the back room, where picture windows face the harbor; a tiny bar at the front of the restaurant ($$$$) fills up most nights. Pros: honeymoon suite is perfect for romantic travelers. Cons: rooms are up the hill and not on the water. TripAdvisor: “lovely accommodations,” “very cozy,” “honeymoon suite is to die for.” | Rooms from: $2890 | 505 Water St. | Craig | 99921 | 907/826–3378 | 17 rooms, 1 suite | Restaurant closed Jan.

Shelter Cove Lodge.
$$$$ | ALL-INCLUSIVE | Tall windows front the water at this modern lodge along the South Boat Harbor in Craig. The lodge here, renovated in 2008, runs all-inclusive fishing packages starting at $2,475 per person for three days and four nights. Rooms are modern, and each contains a microwave, refrigerator, and a queen and twin bed. All guest rooms have private bathrooms. Six of them face the harbor. Fresh seafood tops the restaurant’s menu, along with steaks, delectable desserts, Alaska beers, and nightly specials. Prime rib attracts the locals on Friday and Saturday nights. Pros: price is all-inclusive; lodge was renovated in 2008. Cons: expensive rate in comparison to similar properties; no elevator. | Rooms from: $2475 | 703 Hamilton Dr. | Craig | 99921 | 907/826–2939, 888/826–3474 | www.sheltercovelodge.com | 10 rooms | Restaurant closed Sept.–May | All-inclusive.

Fodor’s Choice | Waterfall Resort.
$$$$ | RESORT | At this upscale fishing lodge guests can choose from several accommodation styles, eat bountiful meals with all the trimmings, and fish from custom-built 25-foot cabin cruisers under the care of expert fishing guides. Rooms have good views, and area wildlife includes whales, sea lions, bears, and eagles. lFish processing and packaging is included in the package pricing—there’s no better Alaska souvenir. A three-night minimum stay with all meals, including floatplane fare from Ketchikan, is $3,975 per person. Pros: plenty of saltwater fishing; opportunity to spot wildlife. Cons: most kitchens in the condos aren’t used, since meals are provided by the resort; remote location. TripAdvisor: “a pure Alaskan fishing experience,” “I always hate to leave,” “awesome location.” | Rooms from: $3975 | 907/225–9461, 800/544–5125 | www.waterfallresort.com | 10 lodge rooms, 4 suites, 4 condos, 26 cabins | Closed Sept.–late May | All meals.

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