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Juneau

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100 miles northeast of Sitka.

Juneau, Alaska’s capital and third-largest city, is on the North American mainland but can’t be reached by road. The city owes its origins to two colorful sourdoughs (Alaskan pioneers)—Joe Juneau and Richard Harris—and to a Tlingit chief named Kowee, who led the two men to rich reserves of gold at Snow Slide Gulch, the drainage of Gold Creek around which the town was eventually built. That was in 1880, and shortly thereafter a modest stampede resulted in the formation of a mining camp, which quickly grew to become the Alaska district government capital in 1906. The city may well have continued under its original appellation—Harrisburg, after Richard Harris—were it not for Joe Juneau’s political jockeying at a miner’s meeting in 1881.

For some 60 years after Juneau’s founding gold was the mainstay of the economy. In its heyday the AJ (for Alaska Juneau) Gold Mine was the biggest low-grade ore mine in the world. It was not until World War II, when the government decided it needed Juneau’s manpower for the war effort, that the AJ and other mines in the area ceased operations. After the war mining failed to start up again, and government became the city’s principal employer. Juneau’s mines leave a rich legacy, though: before it closed, the AJ Gold Mine alone produced more than $80 million in gold.

Perhaps because of its colorful history, Juneau is full of contrasts. Its dramatic hillside location and historic downtown buildings provide a frontier feeling, but the city’s cosmopolitan nature comes through in fine museums, noteworthy restaurants, and a literate and outdoorsy populace. Here you can enjoy the Mt. Roberts Tramway, plenty of densely forested wilderness areas, quiet bays for sea kayaking, and even a famous drive-up glacier.

Along with the Alaska State Museum and Mt. Roberts Tramway, make time for a tour to Mendenhall Glacier and the Macaulay Salmon Hatchery. Douglas (which at one point was a bigger outpost than Juneau) is across the Gastineau Channel to the west. For goings-on, pick up the Juneau Empire (www.juneauempire.com), which keeps tabs on state politics, business, sports, and local news.

Getting Here and Around

Juneau is an obligatory stop on the Inside Passage cruise and ferry circuit. Hence, the town has an overabundance of visitors in midsummer. Alaska Airlines also flies here. Downtown Juneau is compact enough so that most of its main attractions are within walking distance of one another. Note, however, that the city is very hilly, so your legs will get a real workout. Look for the 20 signs around downtown that detail Juneau’s fascinating history.

Essentials

Airline Contact
Alaska Airlines.
800/252–7522 | www.alaskaair.com.

Internet
Heritage Coffee Company.
174 S. Franklin St. | 99801 | 907/586–1087 | www.heritagecoffee.com | 216 2nd St. | 99801 | 907/586–1752.
Juneau Public Library.
292 Marine Way | 99801 | 907/586–5249 | www.juneau.org/library.

Medical Assistance
Bartlett Regional Hospital.
3260 Hospital Dr. | 99801 | 907/586–2611 | www.bartletthospital.org.

Pharmacy
Juneau Drug Co.
202 Front St. | 99801 | 907/586–1233 | 631 W. Willoughby Ave. | 99801 | 907/586–2012.
Ron’s Apothecary Shoppe.
9101 Mendenhall Mall Rd., in Mendenhall Mall next to Super Bear market | 99801 | 907/789–0458 | www.ronsapothecary.com.

Post Office and Shipping
U.S. Postal Service.
709 W. 9th St. | 99801 | 907/586–7987 | www.usps.gov | 9491 Vintage Blvd. | 99801 | 145 S. Franklin | 99081 | 907/586–8335.
FedEx.
9203 Bonnett Way | 99801 | 800/463–3339 | www.fedex.com.
UPS.
1900 Renshaw Way | 99801 | 800/742–5877 | www.ups.com.

Visitor Information
Alaska Department of Fish & Game.
907/465–4180 sportfishing seasons and regulations, 907/465–2376 license information | www.adfg.alaska.gov.
Alaska Division of Parks.
400 Willoughby Ave. | 99801 | 907/465–4563 | www.alaskastateparks.org.
Juneau Convention and Visitors Bureau.
800 Glacier Ave., Suite 201 | 99801 | 907/586–2201, 888/581–2201 | www.traveljuneau.com.

Juneau

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Exploring Juneau

Top Attractions

Alaska State Museum.
This is one of Alaska’s finest museums. Those interested in Native cultures will enjoy examining the 38-foot walrus-hide umiak (an open, skin-covered Inupiaq boat). Natural-history exhibits include preserved brown bears and a two-story-high eagle-nesting tree. Russian-American and gold-rush displays and contemporary art complete the collection. TIP Be sure to visit the gift shop (run by the Friends of the Alaska State Museum) and its extraordinary selection of Native art, including baskets, carvings, and masks. | 395 Whittier St. | 99801 | 907/465–2901 | www.museums.state.ak.us | $7 mid-May–mid-Sept., $3 mid-Sept.–mid-May | Mid-May–mid-Sept., daily 8:30–5:30; mid-Sept.–mid-May, Tues.–Sat. 10–4.

Walking Around Juneau

The most common starting spot is Marine Park, situated right along the cruise-ship dock. For an introduction to Alaska’s human and natural history, head to the engaging Alaska State Museum. From here, circle back along Willoughby Avenue to the State Office Building. Catch the elevator to the eighth-floor atrium, which features an observation deck with vistas across the Gastineau Channel. The snug but cheery Juneau-Douglas City Museum, a local treasure that’s slightly off the beaten path, sits a short distance away at 4th and Main streets. The looming, banklike building across the street is the Alaska State Capitol. For a far more attractive example of governmental architecture, walk past the Governor’s Mansion, a few minutes away on Calhoun Street. If you have the time and energy, you may want to continue along Calhoun, across the Gold Creek Bridge, and then down along 12th Street to the quiet Evergreen Cemetery, where town fathers Joe Juneau and Richard Harris, as well as Chief Kowee, are buried.

Back in downtown, peruse the historic buildings and busy shops of downtown Juneau, particularly those along South Franklin Street. Check out the Alaskan Hotel, the Alaska Steam Laundry Building, and the Senate Building before dipping inside the terminally crowded Red Dog Saloon at the intersection of South Franklin Street and Admiralty Way. Try a microbrew, and then continue down the street to the Mt. Roberts Tramway, a popular way to reach alpine country for a hike overlooking Juneau and the Gastineau Channel.

To cover downtown Juneau’s many interesting sights, you should allow at least three or four hours for exploring. Add at least another hour if you’re a museum fan, or if you plan to ride the Mt. Roberts Tramway.

Mt. Roberts Tramway.
One of Southeast Alaska’s most popular tourist attractions, this tram whisks you from the cruise terminal 1,800 feet up the side of Mt. Roberts. After the six-minute ride you can take in a film on the history and legends of the Tlingits, visit the nature center, go for an alpine walk on hiking trails (including the 5-mile round-trip hike to Mt. Roberts’s 3,819-foot summit), purchase Native crafts, or enjoy a meal while savoring mountain views. A local company leads guided wilderness hikes from the summit, and the bar serves locally brewed beers. | 907/463–3412, 888/461–8726 | www.goldbelttours.com/mount-roberts-tramway | $29 | May–Sept., Mon. 12–9, Tues.–Sun. 8 am–9 pm.

South Franklin Street.
The buildings on South Franklin Street (and neighboring Front Street), among the oldest and most inviting structures in the city, house curio and crafts shops, snack shops, and a salmon shop. Many reflect the architecture of the 1920s and ‘30s. When the small Alaskan Hotel opened in 1913, Juneau was home to 30 saloons; the Alaskan gives today’s visitors the most authentic glimpse of the town’s whiskey-rich history. The barroom’s massive, mirrored oak back bar is accented by Tiffany lights and panels. Topped by a wood-shingled turret, the 1901 Alaska Steam Laundry Building now houses a coffeehouse and other stores. The Senate Building, another of South Franklin’s treasured landmarks, is across the street. | South Franklin St. | 99801

Worth Noting

Alaska State Capitol.
Completed in 1931 and remodeled in 2006, this rather unassuming building houses the governor’s office and hosts state legislature meetings in winter, placing it at the epicenter of Alaska’s increasingly animated political discourse. Historical photos line the upstairs walls. Feel free to stroll right in. TIP You can pick up a self-guided tour brochure as you enter. Complimentary guided tours available daily mid-May through mid-Sept. | Corner of Seward and 4th Sts. | 99801 | 907/465–4648 | w3.legis.state.ak.us/misc/capitol.php.

Evergreen Cemetery.
Many Juneau pioneers, including Joe Juneau and Richard Harris, are buried here. Juneau (1836–99), a Canadian by birth, died in Dawson City, Yukon, but his body was returned to the city that bears his name. Harris (1833–1907), whose name can be found on downtown’s Harris Street, died here. A meandering gravel path leads through the graveyard, and at the end of it is the monument commemorating the cremation spot of Chief Kowee. | Martin and Seater Sts. | 99801.

Governor’s Mansion.
Completed in 1912, this stately colonial-style home overlooks downtown Juneau. With 14,400 square feet, 6 bedrooms, and 10 bathrooms, it’s no miner’s cabin. Out front is a totem pole that tells three tales: the history of man, the cause of ocean tides, and the origin of Alaska’s ubiquitous mosquitoes. Unfortunately, tours of the residence are not permitted. | 716 Calhoun Ave. | 99801.

Juneau-Douglas City Museum.
Among the exhibits interpreting local mining and Tlingit history are an Assay Lab diorama, a reconstructed Tlingit fish trap and video of excavation, historic photos, and pioneer artifacts, including a century-old store and kitchen. Digital story kiosks highlight Alaska’s government, civil rights in Alaska, Alaska’s quest for statehood, and cultures of Juneau. Youngsters will appreciate the hands-on room, where they can try on clothes similar to ones worn by the miners or look at gold-rush stereoscopes. Guided historic walking tours are offered May through September. | 114 4th St. | 99801 | 907/586–3572 | www.juneau.org/parksrec/museum | $6 May–Sept., free Oct.–Apr. | May and June, weekdays 9–6; July–Sept., weekdays 9–6, weekends 10–5; Oct.–Apr., Tues.–Sat. 10–4.

Off the Beaten Path: Last Chance Mining Museum. A 1½-mile hike or taxi ride behind town, this small museum is housed in the former compressor building of Juneau’s historic AJ Gold Mine. The collection includes old mining tools, railcars, minerals, and a 3-D map of the ore body. If you have time, and didn’t arrive on foot, meander down Basin Road back toward town. Unlike most of Juneau, Basin Road is flat and relatively quiet. The surrounding country is steep and wooded, with trails leading in all directions, including one to the summit of Mt. Juneau. At the base of the Perseverance Trail, not far from the museum, you can see the boarded-up opening to an old mining tunnel; even from a safe distance you can feel a chilly breeze wafting through the cracks. | 1001 Basin Rd. | 99801 | 907/586–5338 | www.traveljuneau.com/cms/d/juneau_museums.php | $4 | Mid-May–mid-Sept., daily 9:30–12:30 and 3:30–6:30.

Marine Park. On the dock where the cruise ships “tie up” is a little urban oasis with benches, shade trees, and shelter. It’s a great place to enjoy an outdoor meal from one of Juneau’s street vendors, and on Friday evenings in summer it features live performances by Juneau musicians. A visitor kiosk is staffed according to cruise-ship schedules. | Marine Way | 99801 | www.juneau.org/parkrec/facilities/downtown.php.

Red Dog Saloon.
The frontierish quarters of the Red Dog have housed an infamous Juneau watering hole since 1890. Nearly every conceivable surface in this two-story bar is cluttered with graffiti, business cards, and memorabilia, including a pistol that reputedly belonged to Wyatt Earp, who failed to reclaim the piece after checking it in at the U.S. Marshall’s office on June 27, 1900. The saloon’s food menu includes halibut, reindeer sausage, potato skins, burgers, and locally brewed Alaskan beers. A little atmospheric sawdust covers the floor as well. Musicians pump out ragtime piano tunes when cruise ships are docked. | 278 S. Franklin St. | 99801 | 907/463–3658 | www.reddogsaloon.com.

St. Nicholas Russian Orthodox Church.
It’s the oldest Russian church in Southeast Alaska. Built in 1894 by newly baptized Orthodox Natives and Siberian gold miners, the church was refurbished in the late 1970s and is a national historic landmark. The quaint, onion-dome white-and-blue church has services sung in Slavonic, English, and Tlingit on Saturday and Sunday. | 326 5th St. | 99801 | 907/586–1023 | www.stnicholasjuneau.org.

State Office Building.
The building’s sprawling eighth-floor patio, which faces the Gastineau Channel and Douglas Island, is a popular lunch destination for state workers and assorted residents. On most Fridays at noon, concerts inside the four-story atrium feature a grand old theater pipe organ, a veteran of the silent-movie era. Also here are the historic old witch totem pole; the Alaska State Library, with a fine collection of historical photos; and computers with public Internet access. If you’re having trouble finding the building, just ask for directions to the “S.O.B.”—the locals are fond of acronyms. | 4th and Calhoun Sts. | 99801

Wickersham State Historical Site.
At the top of the hill behind the capitol, on a rise sometimes known as “Chicken Ridge,” stands the former residence of James Wickersham, pioneer judge, delegate to Congress, prolific author, and gutsy outdoorsman. The white New England–style home, constructed in 1898, contains memorabilia from the judge’s travels throughout Alaska—from rare Native basketry and ivory carvings to historic photos and a Chickering grand piano that came “’round the Horn” to Alaska in the 1870s. The tour provides a glimpse into the life of this dynamic man. | 213 7th St. | 99801 | 907/586–9001 | www.dnr.alaska.gov/parks/units/wickrshm.htm | Free | Mid-May–Sept., Sun.–Fri. 10–4; Sat. by appointment.

Outdoor Activities and Guided Tours

Biking

Driftwood Lodge.
Drop by the Juneau Convention & Visitors Bureau kiosk at Marine Park for details on local trails open to bikes. Nearby is Driftwood Lodge, which has basic bikes for rent. | 435 Willoughby Ave. | 99801 | 907/586–2280 | www.driftwoodalaska.com.

Boating, Canoeing, and Kayaking

Above & Beyond Alaska.
In the Juneau area, Above & Beyond Alaska guides day and overnight camping, ice climbing, Mendenhall Glacier trips, and sea-kayaking trips. | Auke Bay | 99821 | 907/364–2333 | www.beyondak.com.

Adventure Bound Alaska.
All-day trips to Sawyer Glacier within Tracy Arm in summer are available from Adventure Bound Alaska. | 76 Egan Dr. | 99801 | 907/463–2509, 800/228–3875 | www.adventureboundalaska.com.

Alaska Boat and Kayak Rental.
Rent kayaks, canoes, and camping equipment at the Auke Bay boat harbor 12 miles north of Juneau. The company also provides water-taxi services for kayakers looking to access remote paddling terrain. | 11521 Glacier Hwy. | 99801 | 907/789–6886 | www.juneaukayak.com.

Alaska Discovery.
Alaska Discovery, operated by Mountain Travel Sobek, leads 9- and 12-day trips down the Tatshenshini and Alsek rivers. | 99801 | 510/594–6000, 800/586–1911.

Alaska Travel Adventures.
Alaska Travel Adventures leads Mendenhall River floats and numerous other tours throughout the Juneau area. | 99801 | 800/323–5757, 907/789–0052 outside Alaska | www.bestofalaskatravel.com.

Allen Marine Tours.
Family-owned Allen Marine Tours offers catamaran trips to Tracy Arm fjord, whale-watching adventures out of Auke Bay, and several land-and-water combination tours. | Juneau | 99801 | 907/789–0081, 888/289–0081 | www.allenmarinetours.com.

Juneau Steamboat Company.
Scenic tours of the Gastineau Channel aboard an authentic wood-fired steam launch—similar to those used around Juneau in the late 1800s and early 1900s—come with entertaining narration about the historic mines of the area. | 3328 Fritz Cove Rd. | 99801 | 907/723–0372 | www.juneausteamboat.com.

Climbing Gym

Rock Dump.
If it’s pouring down rain—and in Juneau, it often is—head south of town to the Rock Dump. The Dump has climbing walls for all abilities from beginner to expert; day passes are $13. | 1310 Eastaugh Way | 99801 | 907/586–4982 | www.rockdump.com.

Cross-Country Skiing

Foggy Mountain Shop.
Find groomed cross-country ski trails near the Eaglecrest Ski Area and at Mendenhall Campground in the winter. You can rent skis and get advice about touring the trails and ridges around town from Foggy Mountain Shop. The shop also outfits hikers and climbers in summer. | 134 N. Franklin St. | 99801 | 907/586–6780 | www.foggymountainshop.com.

Parks and Recreation Department.
In the winter, the Parks and Recreation Department sponsors a group ski and snowshoe outing each Wednesday and Saturday when there’s sufficient snow. Hikes are also offered in the summer. | 155 S. Seward St. | 99801 | 907/586–5226, 907/586–0428 24-hr information | www.juneau.org/parksrec.

Downhill Skiing

Eaglecrest.
Southeast Alaska’s only downhill ski area, Eaglecrest, is on Douglas Island, 30 minutes from downtown Juneau. The resort typically offers late-November to mid-April skiing and snowboarding on 620 acres of well-groomed and off-piste terrain. Amenities include four double chairlifts, cross-country trails, a beginner’s platter pull, a ski school, a ski-rental shop, a cafeteria, and a tri-level day lodge. Enjoy the northern lights while you night ski from January through mid-March. | 3000 Fish Creek Rd. | 99801 | 907/790–2000, 907/586–5330 recorded ski information | www.juneau.org/eaglecrest.

Fishing

Alaska Trophy Fishing.
Sportfishing is an exceedingly popular activity in the Juneau area, and many charter boats depart from local harbors. Alaska Trophy Fishing offers tailor-made fishing vacations and charters. | 907/321–5859, 866/934–7466 | www.alaskatrophyfishing.com.

Juneau Sportfishing & Sightseeing.
Take a fishing trip aboard a luxury boat with Juneau Sportfishing & Sightseeing. | 2 Marine Way | 99801 | 907/586–1887 | www.juneausportfishing.com.

Juneau Convention and Visitors Bureau.
The website and office for the Juneau Convention and Visitors Bureau has a complete list of operators and several companies that lead whale-watching trips from Juneau. | 800 Glacier Ave., Suite 201 | 99801 | 907/586–2201, 888/581–2201 | www.traveljuneau.com.

Flightseeing

Several local companies operate helicopter flightseeing trips to the spectacular glaciers flowing from Juneau Icefield. Most have booths along the downtown cruise-ship dock. All include a touchdown on a glacier, providing guests of almost all ages and abilities a chance to romp on these rivers of ice. Some also lead trips that include a dogsled ride on the glacier, an increasingly popular tourist pastime. Helicopter tours in Juneau have a controversial history due to noise complaints from residents. Note that although we recommend the best companies, even some of the most experienced pilots have had accidents; always ask a carrier about its recent safety record before booking a trip.

Coastal Helicopters.
These helicopters land on several glaciers within the Juneau Icefield. | 8995 Yandukin Dr. | 99801 | 907/789–5600, 800/789–5610 | www.coastalhelicopters.com.

ERA Helicopters.
Flying out of Douglas, ERA Helicopters has a fully narrated one-hour trip that includes landing on the Norris or Taku glacier. | 6910 N. Douglas Hwy. | 99801 | 907/586–2030, 800/843–1947 | www.eraflightseeing.com.

NorthStar Trekking.
No experience is necessary at NorthStar Trekking, which has three levels of excellent glacier hikes. The lowest level includes a one-hour interpretive walk while the highest consists of a four-hour hike that includes the chance to practice basic climbing and rope techniques. | 1910 Renshaw Way | 99801 | 907/790–4530 | www.northstartrekking.com.

Temsco Helicopters.
The self-proclaimed pioneers of Alaska glacier helicopter touring, Temsco Helicopters offers glacier tours, dogsled adventures, and year-round flightseeing. | 1650 Maplesden Way | 99801 | 907/789–9501, 877/789–9501 | www.temscoair.com.

Ward Air.
Take flightseeing trips to Glacier Bay, the Juneau Icefield, Tracy Arm, and Pack Creek with Ward Air. | 8991 Yandukin Dr. | 99801 | 907/789–9150, 800/478–9150 | www.wardair.com.

Wings Airways and Taku Glacier Lodge.
This Juneau-based company specializes in tours of the surrounding ice fields and the Taku Flight & Feast ride, on which a salmon feast awaits you at a classic Alaskan cabin, complete with glacier views—one of the best day trips out of the state capital. | 2 Marine Way, Suite 175 | 99801 | 907/586–6275 | www.wingsairways.com.

Gold Panning

Alaska Travel Adventures.
Gold panning is fun, especially for children, and Juneau is one of Southeast’s best-known gold-panning towns. Sometimes you actually discover a few flecks of the precious metal in the bottom of your pan. You can buy a pan at almost any Alaska hardware or sporting-goods store. Alaska Travel Adventures has gold-panning tours near the famous Alaska-Juneau Mine. | 99801 | 800/323–5757, 907/789–0052 outside Alaska | www.bestofalaskatravel.com.

Golf

Mendenhall Golf Course.
Juneau’s par-3, 9-hole Mendenhall Golf Course has a modest layout, but with views that any exclusive private course would die for. Club rentals are available. | 2101 Industrial Blvd. | 99801 | 907/789–1221 | home.gci.net/~hakari/mendenhall_golf/golf.html.

Hiking

Gastineau Guiding.
This company leads a variety of hikes in the Juneau area. Especially popular are the walks from the top of the tram on Mt. Roberts. | 1330 Eastaugh Way, Suite 2 | 99801 | 907/586–8231 | www.stepintoalaska.com.

Parks and Recreation Department.
In Juneau, the Parks and Recreation Department sponsors a group hike every Wednesday morning and an additional hike on Saturday in the summer. | 155 S. Seward St. | 99801 | 907/586–5226, 907/586–0428 24-hr information | www.juneau.org/parkrec/hike.

U.S. Forest Service.
Hikers can contact the U.S. Forest Service for trail books and maps. | 8510 Mendenhall Loop Rd. (Juneau Ranger District office) | 99801 | 907/586–8790.

Sightseeing and Glaciers

AJ Gold Mine.
Former miners lead three-hour tours of the historic AJ Gold Mine south of Juneau. The tour includes a gold-panning demonstration and time in the old tunnels that lace the mountains. Mine tours depart from downtown by bus. | Sheep Creek Mine Rd. | 99801 | 907/463–5017 | www.traveljuneau.com/listings.

Alaska Coach Tours.
Alaska Coach Tours operates the Historic Juneau Trolley, providing a 45-minute tour of Alaska’s capital city. | 99801 | 907/586–7433 | www.alaskacoachtours.com.

Juneau Convention and Visitors Bureau.
The Juneau Convention and Visitors Bureau has a list of companies that provide tours to Mendenhall Glacier, and others that provide boat trips to Tracy Arm’s Sawyer Glacier, about 50 miles southeast of town. | 800 Glacier Ave., Suite 201 | 907/586–2201, 888/581–2201 | www.traveljuneau.com.

Mighty Great Trips.
The company leads guided bus tours that include a visit to Mendenhall Glacier as well as helicopter tours, river rafting, and whale-watching. | 99801 | 907/789–5460 | www.mightygreattrips.com.

Whale-Watching

Alaska Whale Watching.
The company offers small-group excursions (up to 12 guests) aboard a luxury yacht with an onboard naturalist as well as a whale-watching–fishing combination tour, which is popular with multigenerational groups. | 99801 | 907/321–5859, 888/432–6722 | www.akwhalewatching.com.

Juneau Sportfishing & Sightseeing.
Several companies lead whale-watching trips from Juneau. Juneau Sportfishing & Sightseeing has been around for many years, and its boats carry a maximum of six passengers, providing a personalized trip. | 907/586–1887 | www.juneausportfishing.com.

Orca Enterprises (with Captain Larry).
Take whale-watching tours via jet boats designed for comfort and speed with Orca Enterprises (with Captain Larry). The operator boasts a whale-sighting success rate of 99.9% between May 1 and October 15. | 495 South Franklin St. | 99801 | 907/789–6801, 888/733–6722 | www.alaskawhalewatching.com.

Fodor’s Choice | Weather Permitting Alaska.
Take small-boat luxury whale-watching trips that last four hours, including van travel, with Weather Permitting Alaska. Visitors get plenty of time to view whales and to look for other animals, including orcas, bears, sea lions, eagles, and porpoises, all while enjoying dramatic scenery. There are never more than six customers on a trip, making this one of the most flexible, intimate, and comprehensive whale-watches anywhere. The boat is stable and roomy. All trips include generous snacks featuring shrimp or salmon and homemade brownies along with nonalcoholic beverages. There is a money-back guarantee for whale viewing. The boat captain is a certified Wilderness First Aid Responder and is certified in swift water rescue and proficiency in survival craft. | 19400 Beardsley Way | 99801 | 907/209–4221 | www.weatherpermittingalaska.com.

Where to Eat in Juneau

Douglas Café.
$ | AMERICAN | In the heart of quiet Douglas, across the bridge and a couple of miles from downtown Juneau, this family eatery has Formica tables and a menu that includes omelets, sandwiches, kids’ favorites, and a bundle of different kinds of burgers, which are often cited as the best in the city. It’s a good choice for those seeking an alternative to downtown Juneau’s occasional midsummer crowds. | Average main: $11 | 916 3rd St. | Douglas | 99824 | 907/364–3307 | Closed Mon.

Gold Creek Salmon Bake.
$$$ | SEAFOOD | Trees, mountains, and the rushing water of Salmon Creek surround the comfortable, canopy-covered benches and tables at this authentic salmon bake. Fresh-caught salmon is cooked over an alder fire and served with a succulent sauce. For $42 there are all-you-can-eat salmon, pasta, and chicken along with baked beans, rice pilaf, salad bar, corn bread, and blueberry cake. Wine and beer are extra. After dinner you can pan for gold in the stream, wander up the hill to explore the remains of the Wagner gold mine, or roast marshmallows over the fire. A round-trip bus ride from downtown is included. | Average main: $42 | 1061 Salmon Lane Rd. | 99801 | 907/789–0052, 800/323–5757 | Closed Oct.–Apr.

The Hangar on the Wharf.
$$ | ECLECTIC | Crowded with locals and travelers, the Hangar occupies the building where Alaska Airlines started business. Flight-theme puns dominate the menu (i.e., “Pre-flight Snacks” and the “Plane Caesar”), but the comfortably worn wood and vintage airplane photos create a casual dining experience that outweighs the kitsch. Every seat has views of the Gastineau Channel and Douglas Island. On warm days, outdoor seating is offered. This Juneau hotspot makes a wide selection of entrées, including locally caught halibut and salmon, filet mignon, great burgers, and daily specials. The Hangar serves more than 100 beers, including a few dozen on tap. On Friday and Saturday nights jazz or rock bands take the stage. If you’ve have had enough salmon, try the prime rib, which the Hangar is known for. | Average main: $18 | 2 Marine Way, Merchants Wharf Mall | 99801 | 907/586–5018 | www.hangaronthewharf.com.

Heritage Coffee Company.
$ | CAFÉ | Juneau’s favorite coffee shop is a downtown institution, with locally roasted coffees, gelato, fresh pastries, and all sorts of specialty drinks. TIP The window-front bar is good for people-watching while you sip a chai latte. The same folks also operate several other coffee outposts, including the Glacier Cafe in Mendenhall Valley, which boasts a bigger menu that includes breakfast burritos and omelets, along with lunchtime paninis, wraps, soups, salads, and burgers, plus various vegetarian dishes. | Average main: $3 | 174 S. Franklin St. | 99801 | 907/586–1087 | www.heritagecoffee.com | No dinner.

Island Pub.
$$ | PIZZA | The Island Pub in Douglas has fast service, views of the Gastineau Channel, a full bar, occasional live music, and good times, making it one of the area’s coolest restaurants. There are salads, sandwiches, and wraps, but the real draw is the pizza: thin, 13-inch focaccia crusts are prepared fresh daily, topped with creative ingredients, and baked in a copper wood-fired oven. Customers are encouraged to build their own pizzas, and the best of their creations end up on the menu. (An unexpected but excellent pizza topping: pine nuts.) The menu is therefore in a state of constant flux. If you’ve got room, try one of the chef’s dessert pizzas—bizarre, but surprisingly good. | Average main: $10 | 1102 2nd St. | Douglas | 99824 | 907/364–1595 | www.theislandpub.com.

Rainbow Foods.
$ | VEGETARIAN | This crunchy natural foods market is a popular lunch-break destination for downtown workers. Organic produce, coconut-milk ice cream, and vitamin supplements fill the shelves, but the real attraction is the weekday buffet, with various hot entrées, salads, soups, and deep-dish pizzas. Arrive before 11 am for the best choices. Self-serve coffee and freshly baked breads are available, along with a few inside tables. | Average main: $10 | 224 4th St. | 99801 | 907/586–6476 | www.rainbow-foods.org.

The Rookery Cafe.
$ | CAFÉ | From fresh-baked pain au chocolat to tasty calzones, the Rookery offers an array of pastries, sandwiches, and pizzas every day but Sunday, as well as coffee drinks of all varieties. With its high ceilings and large front windows, this café is among Juneau’s most pleasant indoor spaces, even on a rainy day. Check out the hand-stenciled design on the walls and rotating local art while you’re here; on the weekend, live acoustic music is a possibility. | Average main: $9 | 111 Seward St. | Juneau | 99801 | 907/463–3013 | www.therookerycafe.com | Closed Sun.

Twisted Fish Company.
$$$ | SEAFOOD | Juneau’s liveliest downtown eatery serves creative pan-Asian seafood and Alaska classics. Housed in a log-frame waterfront building adjacent to the Taku Store and the base of the Mt. Roberts Tramway, Twisted’s fish is as fresh as you’ll find. Grab a seat on the deck for prime-time Gastineau Channel gazing and a bowl of Captain Ron’s chowder. Inside is a dining room with a roaring river-rock hearth and flame-painted salmon, porpoises, marlin, and tuna decorating the walls. | Average main: $24 | 550 S. Franklin St. | 99801 | 907/463–5033 | www.twistedfish.hangaronthewharf.com | Closed Oct.–Apr.

Zephyr.
$$$ | MEDITERRANEAN | One of Juneau’s more upscale restaurants, Zephyr distinguishes itself by remaining faithfully Mediterranean. The Greco-Roman menu features Spanish, Greek, Italian, and Middle Eastern specialties such as hummus spread on pita toast points, lamb kebabs, and Aegean pasta with feta and sun-dried tomatoes. The restaurant’s excellent beer and wine list, along with its two bars—one on the ground floor and another on the upstairs mezzanine level—make it a great place to meet friends for an aperitif. About a block away, on Franklin Street, is Sprazzo, run by the same owner. New in 2012, Sprazzo serves pizza, beer, and wine in an interesting, artsy space. | Average main: $24 | 200 Seward St. | 99801 | 907/780–2221 | www.zephyrrestaurant.com.

Where to Stay in Juneau

Fodor’s Choice | Alaska’s Capital Inn.
$$$$ | B&B/INN | Gold-rush pioneer John Olds built this American foursquare home in 1906, and a major restoration transformed it into Juneau’s most elegant B&B. Owners Linda Wendeborn and Mark Thorson are laid-back and accommodating, and guests can expect lively conversation with their gourmet breakfasts and afternoon wine and treats. Rooms are tastefully decorated with handcrafted antiques. The fourth-floor Governor’s Suite includes a fireplace, a hot tub, and a 180-degree view of downtown Juneau. Two rooms on the bottom level have private entrances and look out on a lush garden, where the hot tub sits under a gazebo. Pros: beautiful restoration to 1906 mansion; nice antiques. Cons: the inn sits atop a steep—but walkable—incline from the main section of downtown; room rates are a little high. TripAdvisor: “great hosts,” “all around winner,” “outstanding inn.” | Rooms from: $289 | 113 W. 5th St. | 99801 | 907/586–6507, 888/588–6507 | www.alaskacapitalinn.com | 5 rooms, 2 suites | Breakfast.

Aspen Suites Hotel.
$$ | HOTEL | This all-suites hotel is Juneau’s newest property. Near both the airport and the marine ferry dock, the hotel, with kitchens in each room, is well suited for business travelers and travelers with children. It’s also an icicle’s throw from Mendenhall Glacier. The hotel is available for both short- and longer-term stays of several months. Pros: well-equipped kitchens; complimentary Wi-Fi. Cons: not near downtown attractions; housekeeping is weekly, not daily. TripAdvisor: “comfortable,” “clean accommodations,” “roomy rooms and comfy beds.” | Rooms from: $159 | 8400 Airport Blvd. | 99801 | 907/500–7700 | www.aspenhotelsak.com | 78 rooms | No meals.

Driftwood Lodge.
$$ | HOTEL | This workaday downtown motel is one of Juneau’s best values, with a central location and well-maintained rooms, some of which include kitchenettes stocked with dishes, silverware, pots, and pans. The one- and two-bedroom units have more space than the efficiencies and standard rooms, but cost just a few extra dollars. There is a ferry and airport shuttle. Pros: most units are spacious; all rooms have private bathrooms. Cons: not handicapped-accessible; decor is spare. TripAdvisor: “perfect for a quick trip,” “pretty good stay,” “nice location.” | Rooms from: $105 | 435 Willoughby Ave. | 99801 | 907/586–2280, 800/544–2239 | www.driftwoodalaska.com | 21 rooms, 41 suites | No meals.

Frontier Suites Airport Hotel.
$$ | HOTEL | Near the airport in Mendenhall Valley, 9 miles from Juneau, this rambling hotel is great for families. The property’s large rooms have comfortable furniture and full kitchens with a stove, refrigerator, dishwasher, microwave, dishes, silverware, and pans. Suites have separate bedrooms and living rooms (with sleeper sofas) and two televisions as well as complimentary Internet service. Two bunk rooms include a mini-loft for older children. The BooYah! Grill, downstairs, serves American, Asian, Mexican, and Mediterranean fare three meals a day. The hotel offers a shuttle to the airport and ferry. Pros: large rooms; full kitchens. Cons: long distance from downtown; not a lot of character to hotel. TripAdvisor: “spacious rooms,” “attention to detail,” “excellent service.” | Rooms from: $159 | 9400 Glacier Hwy. | 99801 | 907/790–6600, 800/544–2250 | www.frontiersuites.com | 104 rooms, 32 suites | No meals.

Goldbelt Hotel Juneau.
$$$ | HOTEL | A high-rise by local standards, the seven-story Goldbelt is one of Juneau’s better lodging places, with decent (if somewhat overpriced) rooms with basic amenities, including local coffee. Waterside rooms on the upper level have views across the Gastineau Channel, and some rooms have king-size beds. Zen, the restaurant adjacent to the hotel, offers an Asian-fusion menu; Jaded, the adjoining bar, has one of Juneau’s best wine lists and live music on weekends. Pros: large rooms; free Wi-Fi. Cons: street-side rooms are very noisy; a little pricy. TripAdvisor: “functional not luxurious,” “convenient and friendly,” “very nice staff.” | Rooms from: $184 | 51 W. Egan Dr. | 99801 | 907/586–6900, 888/478–6909 | www.goldbelttours.com | 105 rooms.

Grandma’s Feather Bed.
$$$ | B&B/INN | This charming Victorian-style hotel—the smallest property in the Best Western chain—is less than a mile from the airport in Mendenhall Valley. Cheerful colors brighten each of the spacious and homey rooms, which come with jetted bathtubs and, as the name would suggest, beds topped with voluminous feather comforters. Guests especially appreciate the big breakfast buffet that includes omelets, pancakes, and hot cereals. Dinners are also available Tuesday through Saturday. The hotel is not really set up for children. Pros: delicious breakfasts; deluxe suites with in-room whirlpool baths. Cons: outside of downtown; hotel fills quickly, so book ahead. TripAdvisor: “charming setting,” “lovely quiet place,” “comfortable and friendly.” | Rooms from: $199 | 2358 Mendenhall Loop Rd. | 99801 | 907/789–5566 or 888/781–5005 | www.grandmasfeatherbed.com | 14 rooms | Breakfast.

Fodor’s Choice | Pearson’s Pond Luxury Inn and Adventure Spa.
$$$$ | B&B/INN | On a small pond near Mendenhall Glacier, this large, jaw-droppingly landscaped home may be Alaska’s finest B&B. Owner Maryann Ray pulls out all the stops for guests, with two outdoor hot tubs; ambient fireplaces; jetted bathtubs; a library full of books, DVDs, and videotapes; four-poster beds with high-end mattresses; private balconies; a Skype account for free calls home; hot breakfasts; and a well-stocked breakfast nook. Maryann and her daughter Rachael are skilled itinerary planners, and Rachael is even licensed to plan and perform weddings. Guests can borrow a rowboat, paddleboats, kayaks, fishing poles, hiking gear, and cross-country skis. In the summer there is a hot breakfast each morning and wine and cheese in the evening, and there’s never a shortage of friendly conversation. The Pond also has two condos ($169–$269 per night, one-week minimum) closer to town, which sleep four people each. Pros: private balconies offer excellent views; guest use kayaks and bicycles. Cons: two-night minimum during summer season; limited convenient public transportation. TripAdvisor: “best way to experience Alaska,” “close to nature,” “fantastic and romantic.” | Rooms from: $399 | 4541 Sawa Circle | 99801 | 907/789–3772 | www.pearsonspond.com | 5 suites | Breakfast.

Prospector Hotel.
$$ | HOTEL | A short walk west of downtown and next door to the Alaska State Museum, this nicely appointed but visually unremarkable hotel is frequented by business travelers and legislators during the winter legislative session. Rooms are spacious and have cherrywood furnishings, leather chairs, and ottomans. T.K. McGuire’s dining room and lounge, which sits just off the lobby, serves prime rib, steaks, and seafood, along with Juneau’s best Sunday brunch. Pros: convenient location; friendly staff. Cons: very lackluster exterior and lobby; rooms could use some updating. TripAdvisor: “wonderful service,” “very nice,” “good view.” | Rooms from: $149 | 375 Whittier St. | 99801 | 907/586–3737, 800/331–2711 outside Alaska, 800/478–5866 in Alaska | www.prospectorhotel.com | 56 rooms, 7 suites | No meals.

Silverbow Inn.
$$$ | B&B/INN | Conveniently located in Juneau’s historic downtown, the expanded Silverbow combines a downstairs bakery and café with 11 contemporary hotel rooms on the two upper levels. Four of the rooms are tiny, but they’re all comfortable. Each room features new flat-screen televisions and homey touches like rubber duckies for the tub. Guests stroll downstairs each morning for a filling breakfast, and each evening for wine and cheese. Owned by former New Yorkers, the bakery, open all day, makes bagels and serves deli sandwiches on homemade bread, salads, soups, and pastries. The popular eatery added an outside awning to expand seating capacity, and the back room hosts live jazz and free films throughout the year. Pros: new flat-screen televisions in rooms; nice historic location. Cons: no laundry facilities; parking is limited. TripAdvisor: “unexperted eclectic,” “friendly atmosphere,” “a very positive experience.” | Rooms from: $189 | 120 2nd St. | 99801 | 907/586–4146, 800/586–4146 | www.silverbowinn.com | 11 rooms | Breakfast.

Fodor’s Choice | U.S. Forest Service Cabins.
$ | RENTAL | Scattered throughout Tongass National Forest, these rustic cabins offer a charming and cheap escape. Most are reached by floatplane or boat, but some are accessible by road. Most are equipped with bunks for six to eight occupants, tables, stoves, and outdoor privies but no electricity or running water. You provide your own sleeping bag, food, and cooking utensils. | Rooms from: $35 | Juneau Ranger District,8510 Mendenhall Loop Rd. | 99801 | 907/586–8800, 877/444–6777 reservations | www.recreation.gov | 150 cabins.

Westmark Baranof Hotel.
$$$ | HOTEL | The Baranof has long been Juneau’s most prestigious address; it’s as close to a big-city downtown boutique hotel as you’re going to find in Southeast Alaska. Tasteful woods and period lamps in the dark art-deco lobby create an old-money atmosphere reminiscent of 1939, when the hotel first opened. Upscale dining is available in the Gold Room, known for its embroidered chairs. Rooms on the front side have the best views, but street noise may keep you awake at the lower levels. The best are spacious corner suites on the upper floors, which overlook the busy harbor to the forested mountains of Douglas Island. Some of the other rooms are fairly small. Pros: elegant art deco public areas; excellent in-house hotel and bar. Cons: lower floors are noisy. TripAdvisor: “convenient location,” “charming and lovely,” “beautiful historic hotel.” | Rooms from: $179 | 127 N. Franklin St. | 99801 | 907/586–2660, 800/544–0970 | www.westmarkhotels.com/juneau.php | 195 rooms and suites.

Nightlife and the Arts in Juneau

Bars

Alaskan Brewing Company.
If you’re a beer fan, look for Alaskan Brewing Company. These tasty brews, including Alaskan Amber, Pale Ale, IPA, Stout, Alaskan Summer Ale, and Smoked Porter, are brewed and bottled in Juneau. You can visit the brewery (and get free samples of the goods) 11 to 6 daily May through September, with 20-minute tours every half hour. Between October and April tours take place Tuesday through Saturday, 11 to 5:30. TIP This is no designer brewery—it’s in Juneau’s industrial area, and there is no upscale café-bar attached—but the gift shop sells T-shirts and beer paraphernalia. You can also visit the brewery’s Downtown Depot, on Franklin Street; though you can’t sample the beer here, you can find out more about the brewing process and purchase Alaskan Brewing Company gear—or catch a shuttle to the brewery itself for $7.50 each way. Shuttles run hourly in the summer. | 219 S. Franklin St. and 5429 Shaune Dr. | 99801 | 907/780–5866 | www.alaskanbeer.com.

Alaskan Hotel Bar.
The Alaskan Hotel Bar is Juneau’s most historically authentic watering hole, with flocked-velvet walls, antique chandeliers, and vintage Alaska frontier-brothel decor. The atmosphere, however, is anything but dated, and the bar’s live music and open-mike night draw high-spirited crowds. | 167 S. Franklin St. | 99801 | 907/586–1000 | www.thealaskanhotel.com.

Imperial Saloon.
Past visitors to Juneau may recall the Imperial Saloon as one of the downtown dives, but a major remodeling transformed it into a favorite place to drink, shoot pool, and meet singles. The divey decor hasn’t all disappeared—the walls still feature mounted moose and bison heads. There’s also the original pressed-tin ceiling. | 241 Front St. | 99801 | 907/586–1960.

Red Dog Saloon.
When the ships are in, the music at Red Dog Saloon is live and the crowd gets livelier. | 278 S. Franklin St. | 99801 | 907/463–3658.

Viking Lounge.
Just down Front Street is the Viking Lounge, which sells more alcohol than any other bar in Southeast Alaska. Cruise-ship workers love it for its DJ, dance floor, karaoke nights, and general rowdy vibe, and billiards enthusiasts appreciate the bar’s eight pool tables. | 218 Front St. | 99801 | 907/586–2159.

Music Festivals

Alaska Folk Festival.
The annual weeklong Alaska Folk Festival is staged each April at Centennial Hall in Juneau, drawing singers, banjo masters, fiddlers, and even cloggers from all over the state and beyond. | Centennial Hall | 99801 | 907/463–3316 | www.akfolkfest.org.

Juneau Jazz & Classics.
To celebrate music from Bach to Brubeck, musicians come from all over the world to Juneau each May and are often quite well known. The 2012 festival hosted Taj Mahal, among other luminaries. | 350 Whittier St., Suite 105 | 99801 | 907/463–3378 | www.jazzandclassics.org.

Symphony

Juneau Symphony.
Directed by Kyle Wiley Pickett, the Juneau Symphony performs classical works October through June in both high school auditoriums and local churches. | 522 W. 10th St. | 99801 | 907/586–4676 | www.juneausymphony.org.

Theater

Perseverance Theatre.
Alaska’s only professional theater company, the nationally renowned Perseverance Theatre, performs a wide range of classics and new productions, regularly promoting Alaska artists and staging world premieres. The company recently began regularly staging a limited number of plays in Anchorage every season; other plays have toured more extensively, such as its all-Tlingit version of Shakespeare’s Macbeth, which traveled to the Smithsonian’s National Museum of the American Indian in Washington, D.C. Perseverance’s season runs from September through May, giving travelers another good reason to visit Alaska during the shoulder season. Juneau is also home to Theatre in the Rough, a fantastic all-volunteer theater troupe that’s been staging Shakespearian works and other classics twice a year since 1991, as well as two opera companies, Juneau Lyric Opera and Opera to Go. | 914 3rd St. | Douglas | 99824 | 907/364–2421 | www.perseverancetheatre.org.

Shopping in Juneau

Art Galleries

Annie Kaill’s Gallery.
This gallery displays a mix of playful and whimsical original prints, pottery, jewelry, and other arts and crafts from Alaska artists. If you’re in town on the first Friday of any month, ask the staff for a map of the First Friday Art Walk; more than a dozen downtown galleries participate in this monthly event by hosting evening exhibit openings, most of which feature local artists. | 244 Front St. | 99801 | 907/586–2880 | www.anniekaills.com.

Decker Gallery.
In downtown Juneau, see Rie Muñoz’s paintings and tapestries at Decker Gallery. | 233 S. Franklin St. | 99801 | 907/463–5536 or 800/463–5536.

Hummingbird Hollow.
A surprising exception to the cheesy-airport-gift-shop epidemic, Juneau’s airport gift shop, Hummingbird Hollow, is another fine place selling authentic Native art, including a diverse selection of jewelry, baskets, and Eskimo dolls. | 1873 Shell Simmons Dr. | 99801 | 907/789–4672 | www.hummingbirdhollow.net.

Juneau Artists Gallery.
The cooperatively run Juneau Artists Gallery, on the first floor of the old Senate Building at 175 South Franklin Street, sells a nice mix of watercolors, jewelry, oil and acrylic paintings, etchings, photographs, art glass, ceramics, fiber arts, and pottery from more than 20 local artists. | 175 S. Franklin St. | 907/586–9891 | www.juneauartistsgallery.com.

Rie Muñoz Gallery.
Rie Muñoz is one of Alaska’s best-known artists. She’s the creator of a stylized, simple, and colorful design technique that is much copied but rarely equaled. The gallery is located in Mendenhall Valley, a convenient 10-minute walk from the airport. | 2101 N. Jordan Ave. | 99801 | 907/789–7449, 800/247–3151 | www.riemunoz.com.

Wm. Spear Design.
Located upstairs through a separate entrance next to Heritage Coffee, Wm. Spear Design is an interesting store, where this lawyer-turned-artist produces a fun and colorful collection of enameled pins and zipper pulls. | 174 S. Franklin St. | 99801 | 907/586–2209 | www.wmspear.com.

Seafood

Taku Store.
At the south end of town near the cruise-ship docks and Mt. Roberts Tramway, Taku Store processes nearly 6 million pounds of fish a year, mostly salmon. TIP The smoked sockeye fillets make excellent gifts. You can view the smoking procedure through large windows and then purchase the packaged fish in the deli-style gift shop or have some shipped back home. | 550 S. Franklin St. | 99801 | 907/463–5319, 800/582–5122 | www.takustore.com.

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