Chapter 1
1. R.T.W. Duke Jr., The “Recollections” of R.T.W. Duke, Jr., UVa Special Collections Library, Duke Collection, 1899–1926.
2. Edward B. Tylor, “Fire, Cooking, and Vessels,” in Researches into the Early History of Mankind and the Development of Civilization (London: John Murray, 1865), 262–63.
3. Arthur Schwartz, “Forward—From Sop to Soup to Supper,” in Soup Suppers: More than 100 Main-Course Soups and 40 Accompaniments (New York: Harper Collins, 1994), 12.
4. Janet Clarkson, “Prologue,” in Soup a Global History (London: Reaktion, 2010), 11.
5. Anne E. Yentsch and Julie Hunter, “West African Women, Food, and Cultural Values,” in A Chesapeake Family and Their Slaves: A Study in Historical Archaeology (Cambridge, UK: Cambridge University Press, 1994), 205.
6. Helen C. Rountree, “Subsistence,” in The Powhatan Indians of Virginia: Their Traditional Culture (Norman: University of Oklahoma Press, 1989).
7. Ibid., 51–52; Joseph R. Haynes, Virginia Barbecue: A History (Charleston, SC: The History Press, 2016).
8. Bruce Kraig, “Succotash,” in The Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America, vol. 1, ed. Andrew F. Smith (Oxford, UK: Oxford University Press, 2004), 374.
9. Saddler Taylor, “Brunswick Stew,” in The New Encyclopedia of Southern Culture, vol. 7, 1st ed., ed. John T. Edge (Chapel Hill: University of North Carolina Press, 2007), 131–32.
10. Bernard W. Sheehan, “Dependence,” in Savagism and Civility: Indians and Englishmen in Colonial Virginia (Cambridge, UK: Cambridge University Press, 1980), 104; Bill Deyo, “Patawomeck Indians of Virginia,” Virginia’s First People, http://virginiaindians.pwnet.org/today/patawomeck.php.
11. Virtual Jamestown, “Jamestown Artifacts,” http://www.virtualjamestown.org/images/artifacts/jamestown.html.
12. Sandra L. Oliver, Food in Colonial and Federal America (Westport, CT: Greenwood Press, 2005).
13. “Cajun and Creole Food,” in The Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America, ed. Andrew F. Smith (Oxford, UK: Oxford University Press, 2004), 242; Merril D. Smith, History of American Cooking (Santa Barbara, CA: ABC-CLIO, 2013).
14. Mary Wallace Kelsey, “Beans of the Southwestern United States,” in Oxford Symposium on Food & Cookery, 1989: Staplefoods: Proceedings, ed. Harlan Walker (London: Prospect Books, 1990), 126. Succotash was prepared by Indian tribes all over the United States. A Pueblo Indian version of succotash included chili peppers.
15. Frederick Douglass Opie, “Adding to My Bread and Greens,” in Hog & Hominy Soul Food from Africa to America (New York: Columbia University Press, 2008), 21.
16. Libby H. O’Connell, “WPA Soup,” in The American Palate (Illinois: Sourcebooks, 2014), 210–13.
17. Post Crescent, “A Supper with History,” February 22, 1976; Post Crescent, “Turtle ‘Booyah,’” May 15, 1928; Duluth News-Tribune, “Bovey Hunter Gives the Town Moose Meat Feast,” November 27, 1912.
18. Milwaukee Journal Sentinel, “Bountiful Harvest Means It’s Kermiss Time,” September 11, 1968.
19. Ashley Steinbrinck, “The Real Reason We Call It Chicken Booyah in Wisconsin,” WhooNEW, October 17, 2013, http://whoonew.com/2013/10/the-real-reason-we-call-it-chicken-booyah-in-wisconsin.
20. Mary Ann Defnet, “UW—Green Bay—Wisconsin’s French Connections Origin of Booyah,” University of Wisconsin–Green Bay, October 22, 1997, http://www.uwgb.edu/wisfrench/kitchen/booyalet.htm.
21. Charlotte Observer, “Social and Personal,” November 6, 1908.
22. Gay Weeks Neale, The Lunenburg Legacy (Lunenburg Courthouse, VA: Lunenburg County Historical Society, 2005).
23. James Beard Foundation, James Beard’s All-American Eats: Recipes and Stories from Our Best-Loved Local Restaurants, ed. Anya Hoffman (New York: Rizzoli, 2016).
Chapter 2
1. Marshall Wingfield, Franklin County Virginia: A History (Baltimore, MD: Clearfield, 2003).
2. L. Daniel Mouer, “Chesapeake Creoles: The Creation of Folk Culture in Colonial Virginia,” The Archeology of 17th-Century Virginia, eds. Theodore R. Reinhart and Dennis J. Pogue (Richmond: Archeological Society of Virginia, 1993), 105–66.
3. Haynes, Virginia Barbecue.
4. J. Hammond Trumbull, “Words Derived from Indian Languages of North America,” in Transactions of the American Philological Association (Hartford, CT: published by the association, 1873).
5. James A.H. Murray, ed., A New English Dictionary on Historical Principles: Founded Mainly on the Materials Collected by the Philological Society, vol. 1, part 2 (Oxford, UK: Clarendon Press, 1887), 1,148.
6. Daily Courier, “Mastodon Barbecue Intrigues Some,” April 21, 1996.
7. San Francisco Call, “Restoring El Rancho,” August 8, 1909.
8. El Paso Herald, July 18, 1914; Kenneth Mason, African Americans and Race Relations in San Antonio, Texas, 1867–1937 (New York: Garland Pub., 1998); United States of America, Bureau of the Census. Twelfth Census of the United States, 1900 (Washington, D.C.: National Archives and Records Administration, 1900), T623, 1854 rolls; Thirteenth Census of the United States, 1910 (Washington, D.C.: National Archives and Records Administration microfilm publication), T624, 1,178 rolls.
9. Laughton Osborn, The Magnetiser: The Prodigal Comedies in Prose (New York: J. Miller, 1869).
10. Harper’s New Monthly Magazine (April 1885).
11. Duke, “Recollections.”
12. Norris Thaddeus, “Virginia Barbecues,” Forest & Stream 5, no. 9 (October 7, 1875).
13. Duke, “Recollections.”
14. Harriet Cushman, “The Parlor Car; Or, Jaunts of the Knock-About Club,” Christian Union, October 27, 1887.
15. Marion Cabell Tyree, Housekeeping in Old Virginia (Louisville, KY: John P. Morton and Company, 1879). There is a Virginia barbecue recipe in this book that calls for tomato ketchup.
16. Gibson Jefferson McConnaughey, Two Centuries of Virginia Cooking: The Haw Branch Plantation Cookbook (Amelia, VA: Mid-South Publishing, 1977).
17. William Bullock, Virginia Impartially Examined (London: John Hammond, 1649).
18. Robert Beverly, The History and Present State of Virginia, Documenting the American South (N.p.: William S. Hein & Company, 2011).
19. Wilbur Fisk and Emil Rosenblatt, Hard Marching Every Day: The Civil War Letters of Private Wilbur Fisk, 1861–1865 (Lawrence: University Press of Kansas, 1992), 27; William C. Davis, A Taste for War: The Culinary History of the Blue and the Gray (Mechanicsburg, PA: Stackpole Books, 2003), 50.
20. Marshall Fishwick, “Southern Cooking,” in American Heritage Cookbook & Illustrated History of American Eating and Drinking (New York: Simon and Schuster, 1964).
21. Andrew F. Smith, ed., The Oxford Companion to American Food and Drink (New York: Oxford University Press, 2009); Daughters of the American Revolution Magazine, vol. 113 (Washington, D.C.: National Society of the Daughters of the American Revolution, 1979), 538; Richmond Recorder, “Stalled Beeves,” April 6, 1803. “15000 weight of choice bacon, the hams salt-petered with particular care”; Smith, History of American Cooking.
22. Bullock, Virginia Impartially Examined.
23. John Clayton, A Letter from Mr. John Clayton Rector of Crofton at Wakefield in Yorkshire, to the Royal Society, May 12, 1688 (Washington, D.C., 1836).
24. Hugh Jones, The Present State of Virginia (New York: reprinted for J. Sabin, 1865).
25. Sunbury American and Shamokin Journal, “Preservation of Bacon,” May 15, 1841.
26. Daily Dispatch, “Mr. Jefferson’s Hospitality,” August 26, 1858.
27. Times Sun, “How to Cure an Old Virginia Ham,” February 9, 1879.
28. Alexandria Gazette, “A Fish Fry in the Old Dominion,” December 1, 1851.
29. John Smith, Travels and Works of Captain John Smith, part 1, ed. Edward Arber (New York: Burt Franklin, 1910).
30. Philip Vickers Fithian, “Journal & Letters of Philip Vickers Fithian 1773–1774: A Plantation Tutor of the Old Dominion,” Gutenberg.org. June 20, 2012.
31. Henry C. Knight, Letters from the South and West (Boston: Richardson and Lord, 1824), 66.
32. Ferdinand M. Bayard and Ben C. McCary, Travels of a Frenchman in Maryland and Virginia, with a Description of Philadelphia and Baltimore, in 1791 (Ann Arbor, MI: [Edwards Brothers], 1950).
33. American Turf Register and Sporting Magazine, “A Virginia Fish Fry” (August 1833).
34. Richmond Times-Dispatch, “Dreamy and Hazy Indian Summer,” October 1, 1905.
35. Franklin F. Webb and Ricky L. Cox, The Water-Powered Mills of Floyd County, Virginia Illustrated Histories, 1770–2010 (Jefferson, NC: McFarland & Company, Publishers, 2012), 142.
36. Alexandria Gazette, “Fish Fry in the Old Dominion.”
37. Emory Dean Keoke and Kay Marie Porterfield, American Indian Contributions to the World: 15,000 Years of Inventions and Innovations (New York: Checkmark Books, 2003), 130; John Clark Ridpath, “The Catholic Endeavor,” in The New Complete History of the United States of America, vol. 3 (Cincinnati, OH: Jones Brothers Publishing, 1912), 1,071; City Gazette, “Buckwheat Cakes,” December 25, 1830; Rod Cofield, How the Hoe Cake (Most Likely) Got Its Name, Historic London Town and Gardens, 2008, http://www.historiclondontown.com/files/hoe-cake-etymology-web.pdf.
38. Thomas Anburey, Anburey’s Travels through the Interior Parts of America, vol. 2 (Carlisle, PA: Applewood Books, 1970), 194.
39. Elizabeth E. Lea, “A Virginia Hoe Cake,” in Domestic Cookery Useful Receipts, and Hints to Young Housekeepers, 10th ed. (Baltimore, MD: Cushings and Bailey, 1859), 81.
40. Fithian, “Journal & Letters of Philip Vickers Fithian.”
41. A. Edlin, “To Make Indian Hoe Cake,” in A Treatise on the Art of Bread-Making Wherein the Mealing Trade, Assize Laws, and Every Circumstance Connected with the Art Is Particularly Examined (London: printed by J. Wright for Vernor and Hood, 1805), 114.
42. Sterling Daily Gazette, “Lore of the Kitchen,” April 10, 1888.
43. Herald and Tribune, June 3, 1880.
44. Record Union, “Alabama’s Africa,” May 24, 1890.
45. Atlanta Constitution, “Literature,” July 28, 1901.
46. Daily Times News, “Flower Show—Tea,” December 9, 1953.
47. Virginia Gazette, “To Be SOLD at John Greenhow’s Store,” December 12, 1771; Oliver, Food in Colonial and Federal America.
48. Martha McCulloch Williams, Dishes & Beverages of the Old South (New York: McBride, Nast & Company, 1913).
49. Richmond Whig, “Hustings Court,” May 24, 1850.
50. John Jay Janney, John Jay Janney’s Virginia: An American Farm Lad’s Life in the Early 19th Century, ed. Asa Moore Janney (McLean, VA: EPM Publications, 1978).
51. Smith, Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America, 389.
52. Jacques Cartier, The Voyages of Jacques Cartier, ed. Ramsay Cook (Toronto: University of Toronto Press, 1993), 61.
53. Edward Eggleston, “Wild Flowers of English Speech in America,” Century Magazine (April 1894).
54. Amelia Simmons, American Cookery (Bedford, MA: Applewood Books, 1996), 41. A recipe in this book is titled “Johnny Cake, or Hoe Cake,” indicating that the names for the bread cakes are interchangeable. Johnny cake could be derived from the English word for oat cakes, jannock; Cofield, How the Hoe Cake (Most Likely) Got Its Name; Keith W.F. Stavely and Kathleen Fitzgerald, “Johnny Cake: Where It Came From,” in America’s Founding Food the Story of New England Cooking (Chapel Hill: University of North Carolina Press, 2004). Some claim that calling the cakes journey cakes comes from the corn cakes Indians used to take with them on journeys; Lea, “Virginia Hoe Cake,” 81. The recipe for “A Virginia Hoe Cake” is almost identical to Randolph’s Johnny cake recipe even down to the board set aslant before the fire.
55. New England Kitchen Magazine, “Seasonable Recipes—Including Some for Camping and Picnicking” (August 1895).
56. Mary Randolph, “Rice Journey, or Johnny Cake,” in The Virginia Housewife: Or, Methodical Cook, stereotype ed. (Baltimore, MD: Plaskitt, Fite & Company, 1838); Smith, Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America, 389.
57. Harrell Site, “What the Artifacts Tell Us,” August 8, 2002, http://www.texasbeyondhistory.net/harrell/artifacts.html.
58. John Russell Bartlett, Dictionary of Americanism: A Glossary of Words and Phrases Usually Regarded as Peculiar to the United States (New York: Bartlett and Welford, 1848).
59. J. Howard Gore, “Tuckahoe, or Indian Bread,” in Annual Report of the Board of Regents of the Smithsonian Institution for the Year 1881 (Washington, D.C.: Smithsonian Institution, 1881).
60. Ibid.
61. Daily Dispatch, September 12, 1880; Richmond Dispatch, “Queries & Answers,” November 20, 1892; Richmond Dispatch, “What Is a Tuckoe?,” October 15, 1901.
62. William Wood, Wood’s New England’s Prospect (Boston: John Wilson and Son, 1865); Roger Williams, A Key into the Language of America (London: printed by G. Dexter, 1643).
63. Cofield, How the Hoe Cake (Most Likely) Got Its Name.
64. Keith W.F. Stavely and Kathleen Fitzgerald, America’s Founding Food: The Story of New England Cooking (Chapel Hill: University of North Carolina Press, 2004).
65. John Smith, The Trve Travels, Adventvres and Observations of Captaine Iohn Smith, in Europe, Asia, Africke, and America: Beginning about the Yeere 1593, and Continued to This Present 1629, vol. 1 (Richmond, VA: republished at the Franklin Press, 1819).
66. Evening Star, “A Card,” April 25, 1856.
67. William Strachey, The Historie of Travaile into Virginia Britannia, ed. Richard Henry Major (London: Hakluyt Society, 1849).
68. William Dunlap, Diary of William Dunlap (1766–1839) (New York: New York Historical Society, 1930).
69. “Lady,” A Poetical Picture of America Being Observations Made, during a Residence of Several Years, at Alexandria, and Norfolk, in Virginia: Illustrative of the Manners and Customs of the Inhabitants: And Interspersed with Anecdotes, Arising from a General Intercourse with Society in That Country, from the Year 1799 to 1807 (London: printed for the author by W. Wilson, 1809).
70. John Egerton and Ann Bleidt Egerton, “Pass and Repast,” in Southern Food: At Home, on the Road, in History (New York: Knopf, 1987).
71. Rountree, “Subsistence,” 51.
72. Sophie D. Coe, America’s First Cuisines (Austin: University of Texas Press, 1994), 14; Daniel H. Usner, Indians, Settlers & Slaves in a Frontier Exchange Economy: The Lower Mississippi Valley before 1783 (Chapel Hill: University of North Carolina Press, 1992), 205.
73. Karen Ordahl Kupperman, The Atlantic in World History (New York: Oxford University Press, 2012), 80; Journal of American History 66, no. 1 “Apathy and Death in Early Jamestown” (1979): 24–40.
74. Roon Frost, “High on the Hog in Virginia,” Gourmet—The Magazine of Good Living (April 1981).
Chapter 3
1. Harper’s New Monthly Magazine, “The Cosmopolite Bill of Fare” (April 1859).
2. John L. Koprowski, Mammalian Species, no. 480, “Sciurus carolinensis,” December 2, 1994; Paul D. Curtis and Kristi L. Sullivan, Wildlife Damage Management Fact Sheet Series, “Tree Squirrels,” 2001, Cornell Cooperative Extension, Wildlife Damage Management System, Ithaca, New York.
3. Ernest Ingersoll, Our Gray Squirrels: A Study (New York: Harper, 1892).
4. Richmond Dispatch, “The Idle Reporter’s Reflections on Farmers,” September 29, 1901.
5. Free Lance Star, July 21, 1906.
6. Monthly Bulletin 7 (November–December 1918), California State Commission of Horticulture.
7. John D. Godman, American Natural History, vol. 2, part 1, Mastology (Philadelphia, PA: Key & Mielkie, 1831).
8. John Bradbury, Travels in the Interior of America, in the Years 1809, 1810, and 1811 (London: Sherwood, Neely, and Jones, 1817).
9. Alexandria Herald, “Squirrels,” November 11, 1822.
10. Spooner’s Vermont Journal, “Grand Squirrel Hunt,” October 14, 1822.
11. Richmond Enquirer, “Grand Squirrel Hunt,” November 22, 1836.
12. Virginia Argus, “A Squirrel Hunt,” October 15, 1803.
13. Daily Advisor, May 8, 1805.
14. Godman, American Natural History; John James Audubon and John Bachman, The Viviparous Quadrupeds of North America. London: Wiley and Putnam, 1847.
15. H.R. McIlwaine, Journals of the House of Burgesses of Virginia, 1727–1734, 1736–1740 (Richmond, VA: Colonial Press, E. Waddey, 1910).
16. William Waller Hening, The Statutes at Large; Being a Collection of All the Laws of Virginia, from the First Session of the Legislature, in the Year 1619, vol. 13 (Richmond, VA: printed by and for Samuel Pleasants Jr., printer to the Commonwealth, 1809).
17. Thomas Forehand, Robert E. Lee’s Lighter Side: The Marble Man’s Sense of Humor (Gretna, LA: Pelican Pub. Company, 2006).
18. Saturday Evening Post, “Home Life of Garfield and Arthur,” October 1, 1910.
19. Tampa Tribune, “Col. W.H. Crook, of White House, Dead,” March 14, 1915; Boston Herald, “A Red Letter Day,” September 3, 1881.
20. Lexington Herald, “Squirrelly Situation,” July 8 1958.
21. Lexington Herald, “Blades of Blue Grass,” May 9, 1937.
22. Morning Advocate, “Foodless 53-Days Ended as Faster Consumes Broth,” May 2, 1937.
23. William Whitney, ed., The Century Dictionary and Cyclopedia, vol. 7 (New York: Century, 1897). One definition of the word soup in this dictionary is, “A kind of picnic in which a great pot of soup is the principal feature.”
24. Boston Cooking School Magazine, “Home Ideas and Economies” (January 1, 1907): 97–99; Daniel Carter Beard, The Jack of All Trades Fair Weather Ideas (New York: C. Scribner’s Sons, 1904), 107–10.
25. Otis K. Rice and Stephen Wayne Brown, West Virginia a History, 2nd ed. (Lexington: University Press of Kentucky, 1993).
26. The Sun, “Kissing Soup Parties in Virginia,” August 10, 1899.
27. Lina Beard and Adelia B. Beard, How to Amuse Yourself and Others: The American Girls Handy Book (New York: Charles Scribner’s Sons, 1893), 132–34.
28. Richmond Times-Dispatch, “Personal and General,” June 18, 1907.
29. Richmond Times-Dispatch, “On-Looker in the Market,” August 16, 1903.
30. Alexandria Gazette, “A Brunswick Stew,” June 26, 1855.
31. Indianapolis News, “Virginia Ham and Virginia Cooking,” October 6, 1905.
32. Mary Virginia Terhune, Marion Harland’s Complete Cook Book: A Practical and Exhaustive Manual of Cookery and Housekeeping, Containing Thousands of Carefully Proved Recipes, 1831–1922, new ed., rev. and enl. (Indianapolis, IN: Bobbs-Merrill Company, 1906).
33. American Law Review, September–October 1903.
34. Lexington Herald, December 2, 1930.
35. Irvin Bacheller, Everybody’s Magazine, “A Man for the Ages” (August 1919).
36. Indiana Magazine of History 2, no. 1, “Squirrel ‘Burgoo’” (March 1906).
Chapter 4
1. Philip Alexander Bruce, Economic History of Virginia in the Seventeenth Century: An Inquiry into the Material Condition of the People (New York: Macmillan, 1896); Betty Wason, The Language of Cookery: An Informal Dictionary (Cleveland, OH: World Pub. Company, 1968); Alice Morse Earle, Home Life in Colonial Days (New York: Macmillan Company, 1898).
2. Susan Dosier, “Meats of North America,” in Colonial Cooking (Mankato, MN: Blue Earth Books, 2000), 24.
3. Augusta Chronicle, “The Barbecue,” July 2, 1840.
4. Duke, “Recollections.”
5. Macon Telegraph, “Just ’Twixt Us,” July 19, 1920.
6. Kathleen Purvis, Rome News Tribune, “On Family Tree of Barbecue, Hash Is a Strange Stump,” July 14, 1999; Augusta Chronicle, “An Excursion to Augusta, Ga.,” May 11, 1890.
7. Catoctin Clarion, “Home of the Barbecue,” May 19, 1887; Macon Telegraph, “Just ’Twixt Us.”
8. Edgefield Advertiser, “Some Modern Definitions,” December 13, 1911.
9. Alexander Edwin Sweet and J. Armoy Knox, On a Mexican Mustang, through Texas, from the Gulf to the Rio Grande (Hartford, CT: S.S. Scranton & Company, 1883), 315.
10. William Kitchiner, The Cook’s Oracle: Containing Receipts for Plain Cookery on the Most Economical Plan for Private Families (London: printed for Robert Cadell, Edinburgh, 1831).
11. Good Housekeeping, “Hash,” January 23, 1886.
12. J. Rosalie Benton, How to Cook Well (Boston: D. Lothrop & Company, 1886), 31.
13. Esther Copley, “Hashes,” in The Housekeeper’s Guide; Or, A Plain and Practical System of Domestic Cookery (London: Jackson and Walford, 1838).
14. Good Housekeeping, “Hash,” January 23, 1886.
15. Ibid.
16. Dwight’s American Magazine, and Family Newspaper, “Hash,” April 17, 1847.
17. Macon Telegraph, “Just ’Twixt Us.”
18. John S. Farmer, Slang and Its Analogues Past and Present (N.p.: Harrison & Sons, 1893).
19. John M. Dagnall, Our American Hash: A Satire in Prose and Verse (New York: published by the author, 1880).
20. Puck, “Confessions of a Hash-Eater,” March 10, 1886.
21. New York Times, “The Sunny South Invaded,” May 13, 1890.
22. Yorkville Enquirer, “Letter from Chester,” August 14, 1889.
23. Catoctin Clarion, “Home of the Barbecue,” May 19, 1887; Macon Telegraph, “Just ’Twixt Us.”
24. Independent Press, “Plantation Barbecues,” July 27, 1860.
25. Joel Chandler Harris, Mr. Rabbit at Home: A Sequel to “Little Mr. Thimblefinger and His Queer Country”…Illustrated by O. Herford (London: Osgood, McIlvaine & Company, 1895), 86. Although this book is a work of fiction, it does describe real-world events. One event was a barbecue where barbecue hash was served made of lamb and hog “giblets”; John Egerton and Ann Bleidt Egerton, Southern Food: At Home, on the Road, in History (New York: Knopf, 1987).
26. Z.F. Smith, The History of Kentucky from Its Earliest Discovery and Settlement, to the Present Date (Louisville, KY: Prentice Press, 1895), 371.
27. James Mooney, The Ghost-Dance Religion and the Sioux Outbreak of 1800 (Washington, D.C.: Government Printing Office, 1896), 1,067.
28. John Lawson, “A New Voyage to Carolina,” Project Gutenberg, 1711.
29. E. Laveille and Marian Lindsay, The Life of Father De Smet, S.J. (1801–1873) (New York: P.J. Kenedy & Sons, 1915), 184.
30. Danville Bee, July 26, 1924; Daily Dispatch, “Local Matters,” June 19, 1852—pigs’ head hash was served at a Virginia barbecue in Richmond; Fredericksburg Herald, July 9, 1855—shoat hind hash was served at a barbecue in Fredericksburg.
31. Woman’s Auxiliary of Olivet Episcopal Church. Virginia Cookery, Past and Present: Including a Manuscript Cook Book of the Lee and Washington Families Published for the First Time (Franconia, VA: Woman’s Auxiliary of Olivet Episcopal Church, 1957).
32. Daily Journal, “Celery to Day,” October 13, 1912; Gastonia (NC) Gazette, April 4, 1949; Daily Phoenix (AZ), “Local Items,” September 19, 1871; El Paso Evening Post, June 13, 1928. The El Paso Barbecue restaurant advertised “Barbecue Beef, Barbecue Hash” on the menu.
33. Ashville Citizen-Times, April 1, 2016.
34. Washington Bee, “Killed by Barbecue Hash,” September 27, 1902.
35. Bradley Robert Rice and Harvey H. Jackson, “Castleberry’s Food Company,” in Georgia: The Empire State of the South (Brightwaters, NY: Windsor Publications, 1988). One of the first products canned by Castleberry’s food company in 1926 was Georgia Barbecue Hash.
36. Atlanta Constitution, “Delighted with Dixie,” July 15, 1884.
37. Catoctin Clarion, “Home of the Barbecue,” May 19, 1887.
38. Cora Brown and Rose Brown, “Georgia Barbecue Hash,” in America Cooks: Practical Recipes from 48 States (New York: W.W. Norton, 1940), 134.
39. Benton, How to Cook Well, 28.
40. McConnaughey, Two Centuries of Virginia Cooking, 106, 112.
41. Clarrissa Dillon, “A Hog Drest Whole: Early Barbecue References,” Food History News (Fall 1995). Sandra L. Oliver has my gratitude for her assistance in helping me acquire a copy of this edition of this out-of-print periodical. The old Philadelphia barbecue recipe was found by Dr. Dillon in “The Receipt Book of Elizabeth Coates Paschall,” unpublished manuscript, collection of the College of Physicians of Philadelphia, page 86.
42. Kansas City Star, October 1, 1940; Trenton Evening Times, “Barbecue Hash,” April 1, 1948; Bellingham Herald, “Barbecue Hash and Rice New,” July 6, 1950; Greensboro Record, “Carolina Cookery,” October 15, 1953; Boston Herald, “Favorite Recipes,” September 6, 1963; Trenton Evening Times, “Barbecue Hash,” April 1, 1948.
43. Recipes for Quantity Service, no. 238 (1954), U.S. Department of Agriculture Extension Service, Program Aid.
44. Abbeville Press and Banner, October 15, 1884.
45. Purvis, “On Family Tree of Barbecue.”
46. Lake E. High, “Time Out for Hash,” in A History of South Carolina Barbeque (Charleston, SC: The History Press, 2013), 103.
47. Saddler Taylor and Stan Woodard, “South Carolina Hash,” in The New Encyclopedia of Southern Culture, vol. 7, ed. John T. Edge (Chapel Hill: University of North Carolina Press, 2007), 179–81.
48. Saddler Taylor, “Hash,” in The South Carolina Encyclopedia, ed. Walter B. Edgar (Columbia: University of South Carolina Press, 2006), 432–33.
49. Index Journal, August 22, 1919.
50. Coffee and Tea Industries and the Flavor Field, May 1920.
51. Alexandria Gazette, September 5, 1900; Free Lance Star, June 14, 1900.
52. Philadelphia Inquirer, “King Barbecuer Honors M’Kinley,” September 5, 1900.
Chapter 5
1. Marion Harland, Autobiography: The Story of a Long Life (New York: Harper & Brothers, 1910).
2. Daily Notes, “Brunswick Stew,” May 7, 1906.
3. Indianapolis News, “Virginia Ham and Virginia Cooking,” October 6, 1905. This article was originally printed in the Richmond Times-Dispatch.
4. Times Dispatch, “Brunswick Stew,” May 22, 1903.
5. The Bee, March 26, 1926.
6. New York Herald, “The Old Fashioned Barbecue in Virginia,” April 29, 1858; Richmond Times-Dispatch, “Brunswick Stew Is a Famous One-Dish Meal,” July 4, 1965.
7. Richmond Whig, “A Book on Fishing,” April 20, 1869.
8. Palm Beach Post, October 28, 1982.
9. Evening News, “The Political Barbecue,” September 11, 1905.
10. Irish American Weekly, “Florida ‘Brunswick Stew,’” September 13, 1879; Edwardsville Intelligencer, “About that ‘Kentucky Burgoo,’” October 14, 1969.
11. Progress Index, “Many Claim Invention of First Brunswick Stew,” October 11, 1953.
12. Saginaw News, “Brunswick Stew,” October 18, 1898.
13. San Francisco Call, “Brunswick Stew,” January 7, 1912; Bruce Kraig, “Brunswick Stew,” in Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America, vol. 1, ed. Andrew F. Smith (Oxford, UK: Oxford University Press, 2004), 222.
14. Brooklyn Daily Eagle, “A Georgia Barbecue,” October 27, 1898.
15. Mark F. Sohn, Appalachian Home Cooking: History, Culture, and Recipes (Lexington: University Press of Kentucky, 2005); Linda Garland Page, The Foxfire Book of Appalachian Cookery (Chapel Hill, NC: University of North Carolina Press, 1992).
16. Progress Index, “Many Claim Invention of First Brunswick Stew”; El Paso Herald, “Pioneers’ Day Is Proclaimed Holiday,” November 13, 1914; Paducah Evening Sun, “The Local News,” October 15, 1908.
17. Haynes, Virginia Barbecue.
18. Harrisonburg Rockingham Register, “East Rockingham Barbecue,” August 22, 1873; Times Dispatch, “Brunswick Stew,” May 22, 1903; Boston Daily Advertiser, August 31, 1891.
19. Colorado Springs Gazette, “A Brunswick Stew,” July 8, 1907.
20. Daily Notes, “Brunswick Stew.”
21. Clarion, June 9, 1886.
22. Alexandria Gazette, “An ‘Old Virginia’ Barbecue,” September 14, 1849.
23. Progress Index, “The Brunswick Stew,” September 15, 1957; Daily Notes, “A Gastronomic Triumph with a National Reputation,” May 7, 1906; Richmond Times-Dispatch, “Plan Annual Picnic,” June 26, 1927; Virginia Federation of Home Demonstration Clubs, Recipes from Old Virginia (Richmond, VA: Dietz Press, 1946).
24. Richmond Times-Dispatch, “Mixing Bowl,” August 1, 1942.
25. Halstead Clotworthy Fowler, Dorothy Wagner and George Dewey Vanture, “Virginia Brunswick Stew,” in Recipes Out of Bilibid (New York: G.W. Stewart, Publisher, 1946), 23.
26. Ginter Park Women’s Club, Famous Recipes from Old Virginia, 2nd ed. (Richmond, VA: [C.W. Saunders], 1941), 80.
27. Christy Campbell, Eat & Explore Virginia, 1st ed. (N.p.: Great American Publishers, 2012), 45.
28. Cora Brown and Rose Brown, America Cooks: Practical Recipes from 48 States (New York: W.W. Norton &, 1940), 837.
29. Richmond Times-Dispatch, “Stew’s Star of King and Queen Fair,” October 7, 1982.
30. Richmond Whig, “A Virginia Stew,” August 15, 1862; Richmond Times-Dispatch, “Brunswick Stew,” April 4, 1906; League of Women Voters of Virginia, Virginia Cookery Book: Traditional Recipes (Richmond: Virginia League of Women Voters, 1921); Daily Notes, “Brunswick Stew.”
31. Times Dispatch, “Brunswick Stew,” May 22, 1903.
32. Mary Stuart Smith, comp., Virginia Cookery-Book (New York: Harper & Brothers, 1885), 108.
33. Richmond Dispatch, “Elks Have a Barbecue in Albemarle,” August 16, 1902; Duke, “Recollections”; Women’s Centennial Executive Committee, “A Virginia Brunswick Stew,” in The National Cookery Book, ed. Elizabeth Duane Gillespie (Bedford, MA: Applewood Books, 2005), 138. The 1876 recipe for Brunswick stew in this book includes okra.
34. Richmond Times-Dispatch, “The Brunswick Stew,” January 19, 1908.
35. Ibid., “The Art of the Stew,” December 15, 1946.
36. Richmond Dispatch, “Brunswick Stew,” June 14, 1891.
37. Tyree, Housekeeping in Old Virginia.
38. Carrie Pickett Moore, The Way to the Heart: Hints to the Inexperienced; a Collection of Tested Virginia Recipes (Richmond, VA: Whittet & Shepperson, 1905), 11.
39. Ginter Park Women’s Club, Famous Recipes from Old Virginia, 80.
40. Jasper News, “Virginia Brunswick Stew,” February 19, 1920.
41. Jennifer V. Cole, “Who Makes the Best Brunswick Stew?,” Southern Living (October 1, 2009).
42. Richmond Dispatch, “Brunswick Stew,” June 14, 1891.
43. Charles H. Gibson, Mrs. Charles H. Gibson’s Maryland and Virginia Cook Book (Baltimore, MD: J. Murphy & Company, 1894).
44. Richmond Dispatch, “Brunswick Stew,” June 14, 1891.
45. Janesville Daily Gazette, “A Toothsome Oddity in Eating,” January 21, 1887; Washington Herald, “Dishes with an Autumn Flavor,” November 19, 1912; Jim Shahin, “Brunswick Stew, the Virginia Way,” Washington Post, January 7, 2014, http://www.washingtonpost.com/lifestyle/food/brunswick-stew-the-virginia-way/2014/01/06/38e27446-6e4f-11e3-a523-fe73f0ff6b8d_story.html; Virginia Federation of Home Demonstration Clubs, Recipes from Old Virginia; Ginter Park Women’s Club, Famous Recipes from Old Virginia, 63.
46. Richmond Times-Dispatch, “It Isn’t Brunswick,” January 16, 1947.
47. El Paso Herald, November 13, 1914.
48. Fort Worth Morning Register, “Hopkins County Stew,” June 10, 1901. The recipe for Hopkins County stew in this article is identical to Virginia Brunswick stew recipes of the same era.
49. Robert E. Thomas, The Thomas Family in 300 Years of American History (Dallas, TX: Thomas, 1978), 164.
50. Dallas Morning News, “Hopkins County to Dish Stew for Home-Coming,” June 27, 1954.
51. Jessie S. Grigg, “Knife and Fork,” State, Down Home in North Carolina 39, no. 13 (December 1, 1971).
52. Greensboro Daily News, “Flowering of Brunswick Stew,” November 11, 1954.
53. Catoctin Clarion, “Home of the Barbecue,” May 19, 1887.
54. Winchester News, “Atlanta Ready to Greet Taft,” January 15, 1909.
55. Rufas Jarman, “Dixie’s Most Disputed Dish,” Saturday Evening Post, July 3, 1954, 36–37, 89–91.
56. Oregonian, “The Epicure,” November 16, 1947.
57. Wichita Daily Eagle, “An Old Time Southern Festivity that Is Passing Away,” June 29, 1894.
58. Richmond Times-Dispatch, “The Art of the Stew,” December 15, 1946.
59. Brooklyn Daily Eagle, “A Georgia Barbecue,” October 27, 1898.
60. Lucy C. Andrews, “Southern Prize Recipes,” American Kitchen Magazine (February 1, 1897).
61. Macon Telegraph, “Just ’Twixt Us.”
62. John Farley, The London Art of Cookery and Housekeeper’s Complete Assistant. On a New Plan. Made Plain and Easy, 9th ed. (London: printed by John Barker, for James Scatcherd, 1800), 74; Adolphe Gallier, “Chicken Hash with Cream,” in The Majestic Family Cook-Book: Containing 1300 Selected Recipes, Simplified for the Use of Housekeepers, Also a Few Choice Bills of Fare (New York: G.P. Putnam’s Sons, 1897), 247.
63. Harper’s Weekly, “The Georgia Barbecue” (November 9, 1895).
64. Piqua Daily Call, “4th in Old Virginia,” June 21, 1897; Progress Index, “Many Claim Invention of First Brunswick Stew.”
65. Richmond Times-Dispatch, “The Brunswick Stew,” January 19, 1908.
66. Times Dispatch, “Brunswick Stew,” May 22, 1903.
67. Atlanta Journal, April 28, 1946.
68. New York Times, “Fare of the Country; Who Invented Brunswick Stew? Hush Up and Eat,” October 24, 1993; Georgia’s Golden Isles & Colonial Coast, “World Famous Brunswick Stew,” http://www.officialguide.com/gistew.html.
69. Brunswick Stew: Georgia Named Her; Georgia Claims Her, Woodward Studio Ltd., 2005, DVD.
70. Savannah Morning News, “Brunswick Stews Battle Simmers Fight between Georgia,” November 2, 2001, http://savannahnow.com/stories/110201/LOCstew.shtml.
71. Rufas Jarman, “Dixie’s Most Disputed Dish,” in Cornbread Nation 2: The United States of Barbecue, ed. Lolis Eric Elie (Chapel Hill: University of North Carolina Press, 2004), 41.
72. Ibid., “Dixie’s Most Disputed Dish,” Saturday Evening Post, 36–37, 89–91.
73. Harland, Autobiography; Richmond Dispatch, “Old Time Politics,” August 10, 1892.
74. Women’s Centennial Executive Committee, “A Virginia Brunswick Stew,” 138.
75. Macon Telegraph, “Brunswick Stew,” August 19, 1886.
76. Janesville Daily Gazette, “A Toothsome Oddity in Eating.”
77. Savannah Daily Advertiser, “Lunch,” July 1, 1871.
78. A.P. Hill and Damon Lee Fowler, “Camp Stew—Mr. B.’s Receipt,” in Mrs. Hill’s Southern Practical Cookery and Receipt Book (Columbia: University of South Carolina Press, 1995), 68.
79. Marjorie Kinnan Rawlings, “Game and Meats,” in Cross Creek Cookery (New York: Charles Scribner’s Sons, 1942).
80. Southern Recorder, “Virginia Stew,” September 2, 1862; Andrew F. Smith, “Brunswick Stew,” in The Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America (Oxford, UK: Oxford University Press, 2013), 222; Rick McDaniel, An Irresistible History of Southern Food: Four Centuries of Black-Eyed Peas, Collard Greens & Whole Hog Barbecue (Charleston, SC: The History Press, 2011), 131.
81. J.L. Herring, Saturday Night Sketches: Stories of Old Wiregrass Georgia (Boston: Gorham Press, 1918), 229.
82. Times Dispatch, “Recollections of a Youthful Rebel,” February 12, 1911.
83. Adams Sentinel, “What Soldiers’ ‘Snacks’ Are Made Of,” August 11, 1863.
84. David Hackett Fischer and James C. Kelly, Bound Away: Virginia and the Westward Movement (Charlottesville: University Press of Virginia, 2000).
85. Haynes, Virginia Barbecue.
86. John A. Burrison, “Brunswick Stew,” New Georgia Encyclopedia, August 16, 2013, http://www.georgiaencyclopedia.org/articles/arts-culture/brunswick-stew.
87. Richmond Times-Dispatch, “The Home of Brunswick Stew,” May 7, 1946; Gay Weeks Neale and Henry L. Mitchell, Brunswick County, Virginia, 1720–1975 (Brunswick County, VA: Brunswick County Bicentennial Committee, 1975), 154–56.
88. Savanah Morning News, “Virginia’s Brunswick Stew Trophy Turns Up in Georgia,” October 14, 1999.
89. Taste of Brunswick Festival, “History,” http://www.tasteofbrunswickfestival.com/history.html.
90. Printed in an article from an unidentified publication stored in the Isle of Wight County Museum’s archives titled “Smithfield’s People and Products.”
91. Richmond Times-Dispatch, “Horace Hilliard Heartwell,” March 24, 1916.
92. Greensboro Daily News, “Justices Entertain at Idlewood Home,” July 19, 1927.
93. Richmond Times-Dispatch, July 4, 1965.
94. The Times, “How to Make Old Virginia Brunswick Stew,” August 11, 1901; Richmond Times-Dispatch, May 7, 1946.
95. Richmond Times-Dispatch, “Officials Stew in Brunswick,” November 17, 1978.
96. Richmond Times-Dispatch, “Another Look at a Stew Steeped in Controversy,” December 11, 1978.
97. Taste of Brunswick Festival, “History.”
98. Daily Notes, “Brunswick Stew.”
99. Macon Telegraph, August 19, 1886.
100. Times-Dispatch, “The Stith Family of Virginia,” April 17, 1904.
101. Brunswick Times-Gazette, “What Was Brunswick County Like Before Fort Christanna?,” October 22, 2013.
102. R.A. Brock and Virgil Anson Lewis, Virginia and Virginians: Eminent Virginians, Executives of the Colony of Virginia, vol. 2 (Richmond, VA: H.H. Hardesty, 1888).
103. I.E. Spatig, “The Brunswick Stew,” in Brunswick County, Virginia (Richmond, VA: Williams Printing Company, 1907).
104. Richmond Times-Dispatch, “The Taste Lingers On,” December 20, 1946.
105. Boston Daily Advertiser, “The Breakfast Table,” August 31, 1891.
106. Palm Beach Post, “Brunswick Stew the Choice for 1-Dish Meal for Crowd,” October 28, 1982.
107. Louis A. Spievak, “Brunswick Stew,” in Barbecue Chef: Manual of Barbecue Parties, Recipes, Equipment (Los Angeles, CA: L.A. Spievak Corporation, 1950), 54; Grigg, “Knife and Fork.”
108. Enquirer, “Died,” January 21, 1848.
109. Richmond Enquirer, “Huguenot Springs,” June 5, 1846.
110. Daily Dispatch, “Barbecue,” April 11, 1853; Daily Dispatch, October 29, 1853; Daily Dispatch, “Manchester and Vicinity,” August 5, 1881.
111. Enquirer, “Rough Notes,” September 14, 1849.
112. Spatig, “Brunswick Stew.”
113. Richmond Times Dispatch, “The Mixing Bowl,” September 1, 1938.
114. Midsummer Holiday Number of Scribner’s Monthly, “The Cook of the Confederate Army,” August 1879.
115. Fourth Census of the United States, 1820, NARA microfilm publication M33, 142 rolls, Records of the Bureau of the Census, Record Group 29, National Archives, Washington, D.C.
116. National Archives and Records Administration, Index to the Compiled Military Service Records for the Volunteer Soldiers Who Served During the War of 1812 (Washington, D.C.: National Archives and Records Administration), M602, 234 rolls.
117. Richmond Whig, “Whig Barbecue at Earlysville,” September 17, 1844; Richmond Dispatch, “Elks Have a Barbecue in Albemarle,” August 16, 1902.
118. Duke, “Recollections.”
119. Richmond Times-Dispatch, “Important Step Taken by Masons,” August 11, 1910.
120. Duke, “Recollections.”
121. University of Virginia Alumni News, “Barbecue Specialists Prepare for Big Centennial Event,” April 1921.
122. Richmond Times-Dispatch, May 7, 1946.
123. The Times, “How to Make Old Virginia Brunswick Stew,” August 11, 1901.
124. Lyon Gardiner Tyler, ed., Encyclopedia of Virginia Biography, repr. ed. (Baltimore, MD: Genealogical Publishing, 1998); VMI Archives Historical Rosters, “Augustine Royall.”
125. The Times, “How to Make Old Virginia Brunswick Stew,” August 11, 1901.
126. Richmond Times-Dispatch, “To Give Big Brunswick Stew Picnic,” September 25, 1932.
127. Richmond Times-Dispatch, “Post Perfects Plans for an All-Day Picnic,” July 3, 1924.
128. Charles L. Perdue, ed., “Sergeant Saunders’ Brunswick Stew,” in Pigsfoot Jelly & Persimmon Beer: Foodways from the Virginia Writers’ Project (Santa Fe, NM: Ancient City Press, 1992), 46–49.
129. Richmond Times-Dispatch, “The Art of the Stew,” December 15, 1946.
130. Richmond Times-Dispatch, “Main Street,” September 25, 1928.
131. Jackson Sun, March 6, 2013.
132. Atlanta Constitution, September 7, 1899.
133. Richmond Times-Dispatch, “Mrs. B.G. Fearnow Sold Her First Chicken Stew in the Early ’20s; It’s Been Going Since,” June 19, 1955; Richmond Times-Dispatch, “Mrs. Fearnow, 88, Dies; Canning Firm Founder,” March 7, 1970.
Chapter 6
1. Pittsburg Daily Post, “Kentuckians Greet Bryan,” September 16, 1896.
2. Daily Journal and Journal Tribune, October 9, 1890.
3. Newark Advocate, “Rich, Savory Burgoo Plays a Part Campaign Adjunct in Kentucky,” October 6, 1903.
4. Plain Dealer, “Burgoo,” August 23, 1914.
5. William Dwight Whitney and Benjamin E. Smith, eds., The Century Dictionary and Cyclopedia (New York: Century Company, 1914).
6. Lyceum Magazine 26, no. 7, “Independent’s Alert” (November 1916).
7. Lexington Herald, December 2, 1930.
8. Plain Dealer, “Burgoo,” August 23, 1914.
9. G.G. Vest, “A Senator of Two Republics,” Saturday Evening Post, January 16, 1904, 11; Eliza Leslie, Miss Leslie’s Complete Cookery Directions for Cookery, in Its Various Branches, 34th ed. (Philadelphia, PA: Carey & Hart, 1849), 28.
10. Alexandria Gazette, “A Brunswick Stew,” June 26, 1855.
11. Irvin S. Cobb, Those Times and These (New York: Review of Reviews, 1917), 313–14.
12. Atchison Daily Globe, September 4, 1885.
13. Alvin F. Harlow, Weep No More, My Lady (New York: Whittlesey House, 1942), 292; R. Gerald Alvey, “Grease Spots in the Air,” in Kentucky Bluegrass Country (Jackson: University Press of Mississippi, 1992), 270; Kentucky New Era, “Burgoo Has Long History in Kentucky,” April 28, 1992.
14. San Antonio Light, “Takes Racehorse to Let World Know of Burgoo,” May 16, 1932.
15. Daily Illinois State Register, “Mt. Sterling’s Burgoo,” August 28, 1878.
16. Fort Worth Daily Gazette, “Burgoo Party,” August 24, 1890.
17. Vest, “Senator of Two Republics,” 11.
18. Weekly Courier-Journal, “Answers to Correspondents,” November 19, 1888.
19. Evening Public Ledger, “‘Marion Harland,’ Author, 91, Dead,” June 3, 1922.
20. Evening Public Ledger, “Burgoo,” August 4, 1916.
21. Vest, “Senator of Two Republics,” 11.
22. Star News, “Burgoo King Rebuffs Rumors,” August 3, 1977.
23. Lexington Herald, “About Making Burgoo,” May 12, 1929.
24. C.A. Rominger, American Journal of Dental Science 27, no. 7, “A Brunswick Stew” (May 18, 1893).
25. Marion W. Flexner, “Soups,” in Out of Kentucky Kitchens (Lexington: University Press of Kentucky, 2010), 45.
26. Kingsport News, “Frenchman’s Burgoo,” June 29, 1872; Fort Wayne Daily Gazette, “Indiana and Her Neighbors,” September 1, 1870.
27. Kentucky New Era, “Burgoo Has Long History in Kentucky,” April 28, 1992.
28. Eric Partridge and Jacqueline Simpson, The Routledge Dictionary of Historical Slang (London: Routledge and K. Paul, 1973).
29. Leslie, Miss Leslie’s Complete Cookery Directions, 302.
30. 702 ABC Sydney, “Last Male WWI Veteran Dies,” May 5, 2011, http://www.abc.net.au/news/stories/2011/05/05/3208495.htm?site=sydney.
31. Edward Coxere, Adventures by Sea of Edward Coxere, ed. Edward Harry William Meyerstein (Oxford, UK: Clarendon Press, 1945).
32. Society of Gentlemen in Scotland, Encyclopædia Britannica: Or, a Dictionary of Arts and Sciences, vol. 1 (Edinburgh: printed for A. Bell and C. Macfarquhar, 1771), 691; London Evening Chronicle, “Admiralty Sessions,” February 10, 1825; Thomas Trotter, Medicina Nautica: An Essay on the Diseases of Seamen (London: printed for T. Cadell, Jun. and W. Davies, successors to Mr. Cadell, 1797), 115. Bargou is oatmeal gruel.
33. Boston Courier, “City Intelligence,” February 12, 1855.
34. Society of Gentlemen in Scotland, Encyclopædia Britannica, 797; Samuel Leech, Thirty Years from Home (Boston: Tappan & Dennet, 1843), 46.
35. Danske Dandridge, American Prisoners of the Revolution (Baltimore, MD: Genealogical Pub., 1967).
36. Evening Post, “Influence of Wholesome Food,” August 29, 1840.
37. Observer, “The Young Prince and the Old Lord,” November 22, 1841.
38. Mary Eaton, “Scotch Burgoo,” in The Cook and Housekeeper’s Complete and Universal Dictionary (Bungay, Suffolk: J. and R. Childs, 1823), 344.
39. M.M. Drymon, “History,” in Scotch-Irish Foodways in America: Recipes from History (N.p.: printed by CreateSpace, 2009), 16.
40. Lauren D. Ragland, Pioneer Index of Randolph County, West Virginia (Bowden, WV: Seneca Pub., 2007), 2; The Democrat, “Notes from Webster,” May 11, 1874.
41. Chapman Coleman, The Life of John J. Crittenden, with Selections from His Correspondence and Speeches (Philadelphia, PA: Lippincott, 1873).
42. Richmond Climax, “What Burgoo Really Means,” October 15, 1902; The Standard, “Local Agents to Meet, Dine, and Orate Oct. 11,” October 3, 1902.
43. Cincinnati Post, “Blamed the Burgoo,” July 22, 1904.
44. Lexington Herald, “A Kentucky Burgoo-Master,” November 29, 1914.
45. Evansville Courier and Press, June 18, 1887.
46. Kansas City Times, “a ‘Burgout Feast,’” August 15, 1885.
47. Whitney and Smith, Century Dictionary and Cyclopedia, 726.
48. The Sun, “Irish Stew,” September 24, 1909.
49. Solomon H. Katz, “Pioneer Food,” in Encyclopedia of Food and Culture (New York: Scribner, 2003), 464.
50. Evening Public Ledger, “Burgoo,” August 4, 1916.
51. Evening Public Ledger, “Recipe for Burgoo,” August 16, 1916; Daily State Journal, “John J. Crittenden and Old Kentucky Customs,” June 29, 1872; Fort Wayne Daily Gazette, “Burgoo,” September 1, 1870.
52. New York Times, “What a Kentucky Burgoo Is,” July 27, 1884.
53. Lexington Herald, “Clark Democrats Open State Campaign,” July 23, 1916.
54. M. Ligmot, Bonfort’s Wine and Spirit Circular, “Owensboro Notes,” October 25, 1887.
55. Moberly Monitor, “Burgoo King Got His Name from a Southern Delicacy,” May 16, 1932.
56. Plain Dealer, “Burgoo,” September 30, 1894.
57. Patriot, “Kentucky Burgoo,” May 31, 1887.
58. Daniel Carter Beard, The American Boys’ Handybook of Camp-Lore and Woodcraft (Philadelphia, PA: J.B. Lippincott Company, 1920), 119; The Standard, “Local Agents to Meet, Dine, and Orate Oct. 11.”
59. Dan Beard, “Good Things to Eat,” Boys’ Life, March 1925.
60. Daily State Journal, “John J. Crittenden and Old Kentucky Customs,” June 29, 1872.
61. Hartford (CT) Times, “A Kentucky Barbecue,” August 5, 1843.
62. Lexington Leader, “28,800 Cups and 35,000 Spoons,” August 29, 1912.
63. Daily Register Gazette, “Encampment Relics,” April 21, 1896; Lexington Herald, “Cooking as Unique as Crowd Is Great,” April 25, 1907.
64. National Tribune, “Tribunets,” October 10, 1895.
65. Evening Bulletin, June 26, 1885.
66. Riverside Daily Press, October 23, 1896.
67. Evening Star, “Kentucky Politics,” August 16, 1898.
68. Charleston News and Courier, “Boss of Burgoo and Barbecue,” June 3, 1906.
69. Kansas City Star, “Why No More Burgoo?,” September 10, 1906.
70. Plain Dealer, “Burgoo,” September 30, 1894.
71. The Courier, September 8, 1894.
72. Zanesville Signal, “What Is the Origin of Kentucky Burgoo?,” December 8, 1936.
73. Indianapolis Sun, “Burgoo Plays a Part in Kentucky Campaign,” September 25, 1903.
74. Cook County News-Herald, October 13, 1921.
75. Lexington Herald, “Noted Burgoo Maker and Wife Wedded 50 Years Ago Today,” October 13, 1918.
76. San Francisco Chronicle, “Boone’s Burgoo,” October 1, 1888.
77. New York Times, “What a Kentucky Burgoo Is,” July 27, 1884.
78. Kingsport News, “Kentucky in Stew Over Real Burgoo,” April 20, 1948.
79. Kingsport News, “Frenchman’s Burgoo,” June 21, 1963.
80. Oakland Tribune, “Kentucky Burgoo Drips with History,” October 1, 1969.
81. Paducah Evening Sun, “Kentucky’s Own Is Famous Burgoo,” June 29, 1906; Mann Butler, A History of the Commonwealth of Kentucky (Cincinnati, OH, 1834), 190; The Epicure: A Journal of Taste 6, no. 69, “The Burgoo” (August 1899).
82. The Epicure 6, no. 69, “Burgoo.”
83. Jeffersonian Democrat, “Anecdote of Cassius M. Clay,” July 8, 1859.
84. Josiah Hazen Shinn, Pioneers and Makers of Arkansas (Washington, D.C.: Genealogical and Historical Pub., 1908).
85. Richmond Dispatch, “Grand Barbecue,” September 6, 1885. Squirrel soup served at Virginia barbecues.
86. B.J. Radford, History of Woodford County (Peoria, IL: W.T. Dowdall, Printer, 1877), 87–88.
87. Geo Hayden, “An Illinois Burgoo,” Recreation 6, no. 6 (June 1897).
88. Springfield Republican, August 21, 1871.
89. Kingsport News, “Kentucky in Stew Over Real Burgoo.”
90. Denver Post, “Cattle for the Banquet,” February 11, 1903.
91. Richmond Times-Dispatch, November 29, 1956.
92. Fort Worth Daily Gazette, “Burgoo Party,” August 24, 1890.
93. Daily Illinois State Register, “The Annual Burgoo,” October 19, 1894.
94. Kansas City Times, “Another Burgoo Feast to Be Held,” August 29, 1885.
95. St. Louis Republic, “Mizzourah Burgoo,” April 29, 1900.
96. Kansas City Times, “Another Burgoo Feast to Be Held.”
97. Kansas City Star, “Why No More Burgoo?”
98. Hayden, “Illinois Burgoo.”
99. Arenzville, IL—Home of the World’s Best Burgoo, “What Is Burgoo?,” July 31, 2013, http://www.burgoo.org/burgoo/burgoo.html.
100. Saturday Evening Post, “Soup-Crazy Town—Winchester, Illinois,” August 8, 1953.
101. Samantha McDaniel-Ogletree, “Community Picnic Revived, Helps Restore Pride,” The Telegraph, July 19, 2014, http://www.thetelegraph.com/news/home_top-news/31228894/Community-picnic-revived-helps-restore-pride.
102. Bourbon News, “Famous Burgoo Maker Dies at Lexington,” April 2, 1920.
103. Charleston News and Courier, “Boss of Burgoo and Barbecue,” June 3, 1906.
104. Paducah Evening Sun, “Kentucky’s Own Is Famous Burgoo,” June 29, 1906; Louisville Courier-Journal, “The Kentucky Barbecue,” November 7, 1897; Lincoln Daily News, “Famous Kentucky Cook,” December 11, 1914.
105. American Magazine, “The Kentucky Burgoo Master” (December 1914):64.
106. The Sun, “Boss of Burgoo and Barbecue,” June 3, 1906.
107. Lexington Herald, “Noted Burgoo Maker and Wife.”
108. Edwin Carty Ranck, “A Kentucky Burgoo-Master,” American Magazine (December 1914); Lexington Herald, “A Kentucky Burgoo-Master.”
109. Kingsport News, “Kentucky in Stew Over Real Burgoo.”
110. Burlington Weekly Free Press, “Famous Cook Who Has Fed 200,000 in a Day,” December 3, 1914.
111. Paducah Evening Sun, “Kentucky’s Own Is Famous Burgoo,” June 29,1906.
112. Kingsport News, “Kentucky in Stew Over Real Burgoo.”
113. Lexington Leader, “Burgoo King,” July 17, 1904.
114. The Sun, “Boss of Burgoo and Barbecue,” June 3, 1906; Lexington Leader, January 18, 1893.
115. Newark Advocate, “Rich, Savory Burgoo Plays a Part Campaign Adjunct in Kentucky,” October 6, 1903; Louisville Courier-Journal, “The Kentucky Barbecue,” November 7, 1897.
116. Hickman Courier, “An Interesting Relic,” June 21, 1907; Lincoln Daily News, “Famous Kentucky Cook,” December 11, 1914; Lexington Herald, “Noted Burgoo Maker and Wife.”
117. American Magazine, “Kentucky Burgoo Master,” 64.
118. Newark Advocate, “Rich, Savory Burgoo Plays a Part Campaign Adjunct in Kentucky,” October 6, 1903.
119. Louisville Courier-Journal, “The Kentucky Barbecue,” November 7, 1897.
120. Centralia Enterprise and Tribune, “Burgoo Galore,” September 7, 1895.
121. Pere Marquette Railway, New York, C. & St. Louis Railroad, Chesapeake and Ohio Railway Company, Tracks: Chesapeake & Ohio, Nickel Plate, Pere Marquette, vol. 31, no. 6 (New York: Geffen, Dunn & Company 1946).
122. Roanoke Times, “Grand Army of the Republic,” September 14, 1895; American Magazine, “Kentucky Burgoo Master.” This resource claims that Jaubert fed 200,000 people.
123. American Magazine, “Kentucky Burgoo Master,” 64; Chronicle, “Our American Letter,” November 23, 1895.
124. The Sun, “Boss of Burgoo and Barbecue,” June 3, 1906.
125. Chronicle, “Our American Letter,” November 23, 1895.
126. San Francisco Chronicle, “Boone’s Burgoo,” October 1, 1888.
127. Lincoln Daily News, “Famous Kentucky Cook,” December 11, 1914.
128. Family History Library, Year: 1870; Census Place: Lexington Ward 2, Fayette, Kentucky; Roll: M593_460; Page: 198A; Image: 403; Family History Library Film: 545959.
129. Lexington Herald, “Cooking as Unique as Crowd Is Great.”
130. Morning Herald, August 21, 1898.
131. Morning Herald, June 19, 1903.
132. The Sun, “Boss of Burgoo and Barbecue,” June 3, 1906.
133. Lexington Herald, “Noted Burgoo Maker and Wife.”
134. Lexington Herald, “In Memory of Gus Jaubert,” March 30, 1920.
135. Lexington Leader, January 18, 1893.
136. Lexington Herald, “Noted Burgoo Maker and Wife.” Although the newspaper author claimed that Jaubert’s last barbecue and burgoo was cooked for Senator Camden in 1914, based on newspaper articles published about Camden’s barbecues in 1913 and 1914, the last account of one held by Camden at Spring Hill that mentions Gus Jaubert occurred in 1913. In 1914, the Camden barbecue was cooked by Dud Lawrence.
137. Jacksonville Daily Journal, “Gus Jaubert Champion Soup Maker of Kentucky,” December 1, 1914.
138. Lexington Herald, “About Making Burgoo,” May 12, 1929.
139. The 1880 federal census lists the occupations of Watson Green; his wife, Susan; and his oldest daughter, Ella, as “cook.”
140. Courier-Journal, “The Turf,” May 9, 1876.
141. Lexington Leader, February 18, 1914; Kentucky Department for Libraries and Archives, Vital Statistics Original Death Certificates—Microfilm (1911–1955), Microfilm rolls #7016130-7041803, Kentucky Department for Libraries and Archives, Frankfort, Kentucky. There are conflicting records of Riggs’s age at the time of his death. His newspaper obituary claims that he was eighty-seven years old when he died and had worked with Gus Jaubert for thirty-five years. However, the only death certificate that can be found for an Aaron Riggs who died in the Shelby, Kentucky area in March 1914 indicates that he was fifty-four years of age when he died.
142. Karen Hess, The Carolina Rice Kitchen: The African Connection (Columbia: University of South Carolina Press, 1992).
143. Cincinnati Enquirer, “Tongues of Prize Orators,” August 27, 1916.
144. Lexington Leader, “‘Dud’ Lawrence,” May 30, 1909; Lexington Herald, “Kentucky Barbecue for Winchester Democrats,” August 20, 1916.
145. Lexington Leader, “Camden Barbecue,” August 21, 1913; Lexington Herald, “Everything Is Ready for Great Barbecue Camden Gives Today,” August 30, 1913.
146. Lexington Herald, “Co-Operation Urged by All Speakers at Woodford Barbecue,” July 29, 1914.
147. Lexington Leader, “‘Dud’ Lawrence Dies After Long Illness,” September 12, 1931; Lexington Leader, “Making Burgoo in Boston,” May 17, 1904; Lexington Leader, “To Make Burgoo for Harvard Alumni,” May 24, 1929; Lexington Leader, “Dud Lawrence Tells of Republican Rally,” September 24, 1915.
148. New York Tribune, “Crowd of 40,000 Eat Burgoo and Cheer Harding’s Speech,” October 21, 1920.
149. Lexington Herald, “Former Lexingtonian Dies at Race Track,” July 7, 1954.
150. Lexington Herald, “‘Burgoo King’ Looney, 84, Dies After Brief Illness,” March 24, 1954.
151. Edwardsville Intelligencer, “What Is Burgoo?,” July 9, 1958.
152. National Labor Tribune, “The ‘Burgoo King’ Does His Stuff,” July 7, 1932.
153. San Antonio Light, “Takes Racehorse to Let World Know of Burgoo,” May 16, 1932.
154. Kingsport News, “Kentucky in Stew Over Real Burgoo.”
155. Ibid.
156. Raymond A. Sokolov, “A Squirrel in Every Pot: Brunswick Stew and Burgoo,” in Fading Feast: A Compendium of Disappearing American Regional Foods (New York: Farrar Straus Giroux, 1981), 79.
157. Kokomo Tribune, “Answers to Questions,” December 14, 1936.
158. Moberly Monitor-Index, “Burgoo King Got His Name from a Southern Delicacy,” May 16, 1932.
159. Thomas Affleck, ed., The Western Farmer and Gardener, vols. 2–3 (Cincinnati, OH: Charles Foster, 1841), 174. In 1841, a racehorse named Burgout was three years old.
160. National Republican, “Baltimore Races,” May 28, 1875; National Republican, “The Races at Bennings,” May 20, 1876; New York Herald, “Racing at Washington,” November 2, 1876; New York Herald, August 28 1875.
161. Beard, Jack of All Trades; Dallas Morning News, “Boy Scout Head Gives Directions on Burgoo Making,” August 25, 1933.
162. Jacksonville Journal Courier, “Elza Perry to Celebrate 95th Birthday,” July 2, 1972.
163. Jacksonville Daily Journal, “Burgoo King at Arenzville Homecoming,” September 6, 1953.
Chapter 7
1. Lexington Herald, “Man Falls Headlong into Boiling Burgoo,” August 15, 1913; Lexington Herald, “Negro Scalded in Burgoo Kettle Dies,” August 16, 1913; Columbus Daily Enquirer, “Picnicker Falls into Burgoo Pot; Stewed,” August 16, 1913.
2. Kingsport News, “Kentucky in Stew Over Real Burgoo.”
3. Index Journal, “Recipe for Southern Barbecue Hash, Meat,” June 22, 1959.