The city of Cali sits nestled between the mountain ranges of the Cordillera Occidental and the Cordillera Central. The earliest Europeans settled this green valley, and in less enlightened times landowners brought slaves here to work the cane fields. The Valle de Cauca is also fertile ground for growing pineapple, and an abundance of livestock graze these grasslands as well.
Santuario Las Lejas, Ipiales.
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It’s no wonder, then, that the earliest settlers valued this prized land with its warm but not oppressively hot climate. And they did show up early –Sebastián de Belalcázar founded Cali in 1536, which at the time was called Santiago de Cali. Before journeying north, Belalcázar had been with Pizarro’s army in Peru, but left after the Inca Empire had been conquered in 1533. In 1534 he founded Ecuador’s capital city of Quito, then continued north into modern-day Colombia and founded Popayán at the same time as Cali.
Sabor y Estilo Salsa Academy, Cali.
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Left to his own devices Belalcázar would have continued on, founding cities until ripe old age, but north of the Valle de Cauca he encountered stiff indigenous resistance that halted his northward march. This kept him out of the Andes – but it left room for other conquistadors, like Jiménez, to come down from the coast along the Magdalena, conquer the Muisca, and found cities like Bogotá.
Cali was actually founded just south of its present location, around Ciudad Universitaria, but in 1539 it was moved north to where it sits today. Back then Cali was unrecognizable from the expansive department capital it is today. For a couple of hundred years it remained a sleepy colonial town of 20,000 inhabitants, dependent on its neighbor to the south. Today, Popayán has traded places with Cali and become the sleepy colonial town. Cali was also originally under the purview of Quito and Ecuador. Then, in 1900 a railroad arrived that connected Cali to the capital, opening up the whole southern region of Colombia. A boom in industry and commerce followed, and Colombia had full control of its connected south.
Cali’s close economic ties with the rest of Colombia are no coincidence. Besides the Llanos, the Valle de Cauca has some of the most fertile land in the country, making it the breadbasket of Colombia. Aside from pineapples, sugar cane, and cattle, the valley also produces cotton, rice, and coffee. As with many cities around the world that were founded on fertile lands, Cali is a modern metropolis brushing up against campesino culture.
The 20th century saw Cali expanding consistently, becoming ever more interconnected in the process. Not only is Cali connected to Ecuador in the south by the Pan-American Highway, but it also connects to the biggest seaport on Colombia’s Pacific Coast to the east, Buenaventura. Cali has a diverse cultural makeup, which includes a large Afro-Caribbean population, many of whom arrived in the city via this port over the years. Also popping up over the years have been industrial municipalities that border Cali to the north and south. Yumbo and Jamundí are two such examples that have contributed to Cali’s growth and prosperity.
It’s not always been bright and prosperous for Cali, a place that suffered through civil strife and narco-terrorism as much as any other place in Colombia during the darker years. The other famous group of Colombian narcos, the Cali Cartel, was made up of born and bred Caleños. They rose to prominence in the early 1990s as Pablo Escobar’s operation was decimated. The two brothers who headed the cartel, the Rodríguez Orejuela brothers, couldn’t have been more different from Pablo Escobar. Whereas Pablo relished his larger-than-life image and happily cultivated a reputation as a ruthless mass murderer, the Cali brothers were more subdued. They were wealthy by birth, not born into the ghettos like Pablo. Therefore they were more refined. They preferred nightclubs to machine guns and didn’t need to pound their chests to get attention – they were known as the ‘Gentleman of Cali.’
They may have been savvy enough to sit back while Pablo warred with the Colombian government and reap the rewards of the fallout, but their place on the mountaintop didn’t last long. By 1995, just a couple years after they had surpassed Pablo as numero uno, the brothers found themselves in a Colombian prison. By 2006 they were extradited to the US, finally bringing to an end the story of the Cali Cartel and the era of the narcos.
Getting acquainted
Despite being a large, bustling city with a population of some 3 million people, and sitting at a high altitude of around 1,000 meters (3,280ft), Cali has its own culture and identity that is completely separate from Bogotá and Medellín. Here you’ll find a milder tropical climate resembling that of a savanna. It’s a large metropolis, but a relaxed one, not moving at the breakneck pace for which Colombia’s capital is known. Unlike Medellín, Cali’s central urban areas and suburbs are not dominated by shopping malls.
Cali is a located in the Valle de Cauca, west of the Cauca River. However, a tributary of the Cauca, the Cali River A [map], runs west and northeast right through the city center. This body of water, with its green grassy banks lined with tropical trees, makes for a welcome change of pace from the surrounding concrete metropolis. It’s also a good point of reference for those who want to get their bearings in the city. The river acts as a demarcation point: north of it Carreras become Avenidas and the suffix “N” is affixed to the front of all the street names. The city itself rolls out for another 15km (9 miles) south of the river, but the center is where visitors will likely spend much of their time. And it’s easily navigable.
Cali and salsa
To the typical outsider traveling around Colombia for the first time, it can seem like every Colombian, man and woman, knows how to dance perfect salsa. So when even Colombians tell you that Caleños are the most serious about this most sensual of musical genres, its surely cause to sit up and pay attention.
Cali has anointed itself the ‘Salsa capital of Colombia,’ and it’s difficult to argue against it. The city is home to the largest salsa festival in the country (and indeed the world) – the Festival Mundial de Salsa. Caleños’ love of this music isn’t merely a once-a-year-proposition. Every night, once the sun goes down, the city of Cali thrums with the pulsing syncopations that are right at home in the sticky night, in the tropical climate of the savanna. Ask any Caleño where the best salsa spots in the city are and they’re going to rattle off a dizzying array of options, all likely worthwhile. While the best options can be found around Barrio Menga or Barrio Juanchito in the northeastern part of town, there are some great individual spots all over the city. The main night to go out dancing is Thursday. For more local info on where to go, visit www.comoespahoy.com.co.
View of the city of Cali from the Church of San Antonio.
Photoshot
The city center
If the river is a point of reference, the Parque Simón Bolívar B [map] should be the anchor point for visitors to Cali. It is near to the colonial heart of the city and hugs the river. The area is home to tall palm trees, the blocky Centro Administrativo Municipal building, and the Plaza de Alcaldia. You can find your way anywhere around town using this park as your baseline. Also here is the lovely Puente Ortiz, a pedestrian bridge built in the 1840s that crosses the river, leading through the park and to Avenida 2 Norte. South of the river it turns into Calle 11. Near to this is bridge is a pedestrian-only throughway, the Paseo Bolívar, notable for a sculpture of 19th century romantic novelist Jorge Isaacs, as well as a bronze statue of the Liberator.
Plaza Caicedo C [map] is located a couple of blocks to the south of Parque Bolívar. Centering the plaza is a monument to independence leader Joaquín de Caycedo y Cuero. Looming over it is the Catedral Metropolitana, built in the mid-19th century over the site of a former church, which was founded in 1539. The Metropolitana is expansive, featuring three aisles and some fine stained-glass mosaics.
Nearby you’ll find one of the most impressive colonial sites in the city, the Iglesia de San Francisco D [map] (Church and Monastery of San Francisco). The brick exterior dates back to the mid-18th century; however, the interior has been renovated a few times over the years, most notably in the 19th century and then again in 1926. The work seems to have paid off, as the church has a stunning ornate ceiling, surrounded by many carvings, images, and paintings dating back to its founding. Also inside the church is a chapel, the Capilla de la Inmaculada (Chapel of the Immaculate Conception), with a long nave lined with gold-topped columns. As for the adjoining monastery, it was built around the same time as the church and features a bell tower reminiscent of stacked blocks called the Torre Mudéjar. The word Mudéjar is fitting here, as it denotes a part-Gothic part-Islamic style of architecture found in Spain between AD 1100 and 1400.
Cali’s oldest church is La Merced E [map] (Carrera 4, no. 6–117; tel: 2-880 4737). This house of worship was erected in 1545 in what was a symbolic location of the founding of Cali nine years earlier. Its rustic and classical appearance shines through today due in no small part to a renovation project paid for by the Banco Popular. Next to La Merced two art galleries are housed in a former convent: the Museo de Arte Colonial (actually part of the church; Mon–Fri 9am–12pm 2–5pm, Sat 9am–12pm), which features a collection of 16th and 17th century paintings, and the Museo Arqueológico F [map] (Archeological Museum; Carrera 4, no. 6–59; tel: 2-885 4675; Mon–Sat 9am–1pm, 2–6pm). Here you’ll find interesting collections of pre-Columbian pottery from the Calima indigenous group. The courtyard features a replica of a tomb in Tierradentro. Nearby, across from La Merced, is the Casa Arzobispal G [map] (Archbishop’s House; corner of Carrera 4 and Calle 7), is the oldest surviving two-story home in Cali – and it once hosted Bolívar in 1922.
La Ermita, Cali.
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Over by the river, at the intersection of Carrera 1 and Calle 13, is one of the standout churches in the city, La Ermita (mass: Mon–Sat 7.30am and 5pm, Sun 10am and 5pm). Neo-Gothic churches evoke a sense of awe, but when they’re painted blue and bright white, as this one is, it’s almost as striking as a celestial vision. The original church that sat on this site was built in 1602, but it was mostly destroyed in a 1925 earthquake. The design of the new building was influenced by the cathedral in Cologne, Germany, and was finished in 1942. Inside are rows of grand arches, above which you’ll see narrow stained-glass mosaics. The pulpit forgoes the gold-painted décor that is common in Colombian churches in favor of an 18th-century marble altar brought over from Italy. It even boasts a musical clock imported from Amsterdam. One item that survived the 1925 earthquake is a typical Caleño painting called El Señor de la Caña, which sits over the altar and features a bleeding and crowned Christ holding the fruit of the Valle de Cauca’s earth, sugarcane.
La Ermita sits on the pleasant Plaza de los Poetas, where you’ll find life-size statues of famous Caleños, and once again Jorge Isaacs makes an appearance. From here you can cross Parque Bolívar north via the Paseo Bolívar or the Puente Ortiz. Crossing the river you’ll notice many sculptures lining the banks, which were commissioned in the 1990s. One, the Maria Mulata, is a representation of a Colombian blackbird, and another is a great bronze piece called El Gato Rio, which features a cat with big bug eyes done by artist Hernando Tejada. Cali’s also known for its exotic old trees, and you can find a prodigious ceiba north of the park at Avenida 4 Norte where it meets Calle 10.
Where
The best places to go out salsa dancing are in the barrios Menga and Juanchito. These are where the most talented and enthusiastic Caleños go to show off their moves.
Musicians playing on a street in Cali.
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Near to the Casa Arzobispal is the Banco Republica building, which houses the Museo del Oro Calima H [map] (Calima Gold Museum; Calle 7, no. 4–69; tel: 2-684 7755; www.banrepcultural.org/cali/museo-del-oro-calima; Mon–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat 10am–5pm; free). This is one of the satellite branches of Bogotá’s Gold Museum, and, as with the main branch in the country’s capital, the Cali version has an extensive array of pre-Columbian artifacts, including many gold pieces and impressive ceramics. Most of the exhibits are displayed behind the thick metal doors of a security vault, presumably to keep any modern-day conquistadors from getting any bright ideas.
The pieces in the museum represent over 9,000 years of history covering various periods dominated by distinct indigenous groups. The Museo Calima separates the later years of this history into three periods: the Llama, Yotoco, and Sonso. Most of the artifacts were recovered from the Calima region of Colombia, just north of Cali. Its temperate climate and proximity to the river and fertile lands meant it saw a lot of human traffic in the pre-Columbian era. Stone and bone tools used by the earliest hunter-gatherer tribes are on display here, representing the earliest artifacts from pre-ceramic times. Fossilized corn pollen found on items dates many of the artifacts used by these groups to around 5,000 BC.
The Llama period represents the point when the early peoples shifted to an agrarian society. The museum showcases pottery and ceramics dated from this period as far back as 1500 BC. There are also some interesting ceramic vases and masks that show evidence of a hierarchal society. Artifacts on display in the museum from the Yotoco period date back to the beginning of the Christian era and show that the indigenous cultures developed advanced gold-working abilities, evidenced in elaborate gold ornaments, headdresses, and sculptures. The Sonso period spans from around AD 800 until the Spanish conquistadors arrived in the early part of the 16th century and features burial items like a wood sarcophagus and late-period gold work ornaments and jewelry, notable for their elaborate shapes such as hoops and pectorals. Overall, the museum is well worth a visit.
Tip
Newbies to salsa dancing may want to take some lessons before diving straight in. Most hotels and hostels offer such services, and there are academies as well.
Rear view of Cristo del Rey statue,Cali.
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South of the river and to the west lies the neighborhood of San Antonio, which is regarded as the bohemian heart of Cali. Like La Candelaria in Bogotá, San Antonio is located in the hills. One of the most popular treks is to make your way up Carreras 5 and 10, through neighborhoods filled with lovely but ever-dwindling Colonial homes up to the Capilla San Antonio I [map] (San Antonio Chapel; 2-658 0022), a humble 18th-century church that appears little changed since it was founded in 1747. Most people come here for the view of Cali as seen from the park in front of the plaza. It’s a popular spot on weekends when locals come to see a sweeping vista of Cali laid out before them.
North of San Antonio, before the river, you’ll find the Museo de Arte Modero La Tertulia J [map] (Museum of Modern Art La Tertulia; Carrera 1, no, 5–105; tel: 2-893-2939; www.museolatertulia.com; Tue–Sun 10am–8pm, Sun 2–6pm), which has some 1,500 pieces of local and other South American art spread out over three floors. There are discounts for students and groups, and there’s a salon featuring the occasional exhibition, which is always free. To the west of the modern art museum is the zoo, the Zoológico de Cali (tel: 2-488 0888; www.zoologicodecali.com.co; daily 9am–4pm), where you can see such South American animals as tapirs and llamas, together with animals from farther afield, like the Burmese python. A nice collection of birds and primates rounds out the exhibits, and the zoo efficiently incorporates the river. From here, head west for one of the best miradors (lookouts) in the city, the Monumento Cristo Rey, a Christ statue that could easily pass for the Cristo Redentor (Christ the Redeemer) of Rio de Janeiro. Sitting on a 1,470-meter (4,800ft) -high hill, it affords stunning panoramic views over Cali.
The colonial city of Popayán.
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Eat
For the best places to eat in Cali, head to La Plaza de Mercado Alameda (Calle 8 at Carrera 26), which is located in the southwest of the city.
The north and east
Another great mirador in Cali is located in the northwest part of the city. The Monumento Las Tres Cruces K [map] (Monument of the Three Crosses) is named for the three crosses sitting atop a 1,450-meter (4,757ft) hill. During Holy Week it’s a traditional pilgrimage site that offers more great views of the city and Valle de Cauca. To the east is the Orchideorama L [map] (Avenida 2 Norte, no. 48-10; 665 8358; www.caliorquideas.com; Mon–Fri 8am–noon, 2–5pm), a garden that features an exotic flower much admired in Colombia, the orchid. The park cultivates various types of orchids, and its idyllic green grounds make it a popular spot for weddings. Some 4km (2.5 miles) east is a family fun center, the Acuaparque de la Caña (tel: 2-438 4812; www.acuaparquecali.com; Tue–Sun 9am–5pm), which has a waterpark and several rollercoasters.
Around Cali
When strolling the cobblestone streets of Popayán, it’s easy to imagine it as the colonial powerhouse it once was, before the gas lamps and horse-drawn carriages gave way to electricity, automobiles, and skyscrapers. This city of around 250,000 people, to the south of Cali, still exudes the spirit of the Spanish colonial settlement that defined its earliest origins. Indeed it almost seems stuck in time – a bustling community frozen in the past and protected from the encroaching present by the Mountains of the Cordillera Central that surround it.
The Spanish viewed Popayán as an important strategic point in the New World. To them it represented a vital link between Quito and Lima in the south, and Bogotá and Cartagena in the north. These days it makes for a relaxing excursion from Cali and a good spot to relax after all that partying in the city’s salsotecas. It’s also a good base for excursions to the archeological site of Tierradentro.
Parque Caldas, Popayán.
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History, tragedy, and perserverence
It’s hard to imagine that this well-preserved marvel ever suffered any kind of debilitating damage. However, in 1983 that’s exactly what happened. The 5.5-magnitude concussion toppled many buildings and resulted in the death of 267 people. However, the city, which was first founded in 1537 and prided itself on its colonial heritage, wasn’t about to give up easily. Popayán had survived previous earthquakes – and even volcanic eruptions – and they were determined to survive this natural disaster as well. They mounted a vigorous reconstruction project, and managed to rebuild many of the buildings. The only remnant of the previous tragedy is the occasional empty lot where colonial-era buildings once stood.
The whitewashed buildings that remain are dazzling in their brightness, and there are few more pleasant ways to spend a few hours here than strolling along the narrow streets, between the colonial homes and relaxing in the old plazas. Spend enough time here and it’s easy to lose yourself in the colonial spirit that the area exudes.
This city is also home to a modern university scene and has a large student population. Popayán has produced many presidents over the years. Some, like Tomás Cipriano de Mosquera, who served from 1845–1849, date from the New Granada era, while others, like Guillermo León Valencia served in more modern times, from 1962–1966. Popayán has also produced many notable painters, composers, and writers. Edgar Negret, a sculptor and painter, is considered one of the all-time great sculptors in the geometric form.
Tip
Salsa dancing isn’t the only fun activity in Cali. In the surrounding Valle Cauca are some great sites for paragliding; inquire at your local hostel or hotel.
Around the city
Popayán is the capital of the Department of Cauca, and surrounding it are the green mountains of the Cordillera Central. These look down from the south, north, and east of the city. Toward the southeast it’s possible to see the top of Volcán Puracé, which stands at 4,650 meters (15,256ft). The Río Cauca rises at Puracé and passes Popayán toward the north. A tributary of this river, the Molino, passes through town, and there are lovely bridges over this body of water that are just as romantic (if not more so) than any cobblestone street in town.
Puracé National Park.
Alamy
The Catedral Basilica Nuestra Señora de la Asuncíon (Cathedral Basilica of our Lady of the Assumption; Calle 5 at Carrera 6; daily 8.30am–6pm) is one of the most iconic buildings in the city, and it’s as virginal snow-white as many of the houses in the historic district. It sits on the south side of the Plaza Mayor (Parque Cladas) and has a long and storied history. The original chapel on the site, which was made from adobe, was inaugurated in 1537 but was replaced by a thatched-roof cathedral in 1558. In 1594 this was replaced by another cathedral, which was subsequently destroyed in 1784 by an earthquake. The latest iteration of the cathedral was completed in 1900 and restored again after the 1983 earthquake. The church is in neoclassical style and there’s a marble Madonna behind the altar. The building itself is topped by a stately 40-meter (130ft) -high dome.
Puracé Parque
Travel about 30km (20 miles) southeast of Popayán and you will reach the Parque Nacional Puracé. Covering over 86,000 hectares (212,510 acres), Parque Nacional Puracé is home to Volcán Puracé, which stands at 4,646 meters (15,243ft) above sea level. It also includes the Pan de Azúcar at 4,670 meters (15,322ft) above sea level, and a line of volcanic craters called the Volcanes los Coconucos. You can hike up to the summits of these peaks. Be warned though: it’s a challenging two-day expedition that should only be attempted by the physically fit. However, those who do make it up to these high altitudes may just be treated to a sighting of the spectacled bear or mountain tapir.
Popayán is not at a loss for churches. Some other impressive houses of worship in the area include San Agustín (Carrera 6, no. 7–54; mass times: Mon 7am, Tue–Sat 7am and 6pm, Sun 7am, 11am, and 6pm), which is located two blocks south of the cathedral. It was founded in 1881 and features a statue of Christ kneeling on a globe. One block east of the cathedral is La Encarnacíon, which was built in 1764 and used for religious music festivals today. The Iglesia Sant Domingo (Church of Saint Domingo; Calle 4, no. 4–15; mass times: Mon–Sat 7am and 5pm, Sun 10:30am, noon, and 5pm) is another whitewashed church with domed towers. It was originally created as a convent in 1552 and has been rebuilt over the years. Inside are some interesting woodcarvings. La Ermita de Jesús Nazareno (Calle 5 at Carrera 2; mass times: Mon–Sat 5pm, Sun 9:30pm and 5pm) is the oldest church in the city, dating back to the founding of Popayán. The Iglesia San Francisco (Church of San Francisco; Carrera 9, no. 3–74; mass times: Mon–Fri 5pm and 6pm, Sat noon, 5pm, and 6pm, Sun 10am, 4pm, 5pm, and 6pm) is located about two blocks east of the Plaza Mayor and is a nice Baroque cathedral dating from around 1775. It has been partially restored after earthquake damage.
Iglesia San Francisco.
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Culture aficionados should head to the Museo de Historia Natural (Museum of Natural History; Calle 2, no. 1a–25; tel: 8-209 800; Mon–Sun 9am–11am, 2–4pm), which has eight rooms featuring educational displays on the natural history of the area, including geology and archeology. There are also exhibitions covering insects, reptiles, birds, mammals, and sea life. Other museums include the Casa Museo Negret (Calle 5a, no. 10–23; tel: 2-824 4546; Mon–Fri 8am–12pm, 2–6pm), which celebrates a single subject, one of the city’s most famous residents, the artist Edgar Negret. The museum contains some of his artwork, sculptures, and photographs, plus some other works by Latin American artists. The Museo Nacional Guillermo Valencia (Carrera 6, no. 2–69; tel: 2-820 6160; Tue–Sun 10am–noon, 2–5pm; free) is the birthplace of the poet and diplomat Guillermo León Valencia; the Museo Casa Mosquera (Calle 3 Norte, no. 5–14; tel: 2-820-9800; Tue–Sun 9am–noon, 2–6pm) is the home of the former president of Colombia, Tomás Cipriano de Mosquera y Arboleda. There are six exhibition rooms here featuring some 711 historical and cultural items.
If you’re up for a walk you can head east along Calle 5 from the Plaza Mayor, past La Ermita, to the Iglesia de Belén (mass times: Mon–Sat 4pm, Sun 11.30am–4pm), a pleasant chapel on a hill overlooking Popayán with great views of the city. From there you could continue on to the Morro de Tulcán, which also overlooks the city center and has an equestrian statue of the founder Sebastían de Belalcázar. Next to here is the Ríncon Payanes (also known as Pueblito Patjo), which features nice colonial buildings and stands selling local handicrafts.
Anyone with even a passing interest in pre-Columbian history will want to make Tierradentro a firm fixture on their itinerary. It’s one of the most interesting archeological sites in the country due to its ancient man-made hypogea (burial caves) that were created between the 6th and 10th centuries. These were built as tombs, not for ordinary members of Tierradentro society, but for the elite. The burial areas, which range in size from small and shallow to about 8 meters (26ft) deep, feature spiral staircases and walls decorated by the builders with black, white, and red geometric patterns. The various ancient sites, as well as the stunning views of the surrounding Cordillera Central, are why Tierradentro is a Unesco World Heritage Site.
Tierradentro is located in Inza, Cauca Department, which is a relatively quick 100km (62-mile) -trip northeast of Popayán. It’s something of a rough road from the capital of the department, but the spectacular mountain scenery makes it all worthwhile. The scene is set right when you arrive in Inza, as the main plaza here features indigenous stone statues. About 9km (5 miles) outside of Inza is El Cruce, the intersection where a road turns off for the 20-minute drive to the village of San Andrés de Pisambalá, at the edge of the archeological site. The park administration office is also on this road.
Tierradentro Valley.
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There’s an archeological museum on the road to the park (daily 8am–noon, 2–6.30pm), which offers a unique overview of the site in the form of a scale model of the region. There are also exhibits detailing the Paez, the indigenous people responsible for the sites, and whose descendants still live in the surrounding indigenous villages today. The helpful staffers provide useful info about the area.
You can leave for the sites from the museum or village on horseback, although a guide is required. Hiring a guide and horse for the day will cost roughly US$15–20. You can also walk – again from either the museum or the village – but be sure to take plenty of water, sunscreen, and a hat. There are five principal burial sites of note: Segovia, El Tablon, El Duende, Alto de San Andrés, and El Aguacate. Segovia can be reached via a 15-minute walk from behind the museum, and it has about 30 tombs. Be sure to look at tombs 9, 10, and 12, as these have the most interesting wall designs. Beyond Segovia, 15 minutes up a hill, is El Duende, which has four tombs. From El Duende it’s a 40-minute hike along a road that descends to San Andrés, and then another 30 minutes downhill to El Tablón, which has eight stone statues. El Alto de San Andrés is 20 minutes beyond the village. Beyond El Alto, it’s around 90 minutes up and down various hills to El Aguacate. There are around 30 tombs here but only one is properly maintained. Either way you’ll be treated to some great views around Aguacate.
Burial cave, Tierradentro.
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Pasto and the far south
The capital of the Department of Nariño, some 388km (240 miles) south of Cali, is Pasto, which was founded in 1539 by Lorenzo de Aldana. It’s a robust city of some 500,000 inhabitants sitting at 2,527 meters (8,290ft) above sea level on a high plateau. To get here from Cali involves traveling along the Pan-American Highway, where you’ll be treated to stunning scenery all along the way. Many visitors pass through here on their way to Ecuador, as the border is only 88km (55 miles) away, but it’s a worthwhile destination in its own right, with fine architecture and, a couple hours away, one of the most amazing hillside colonial churches in the world.
As with many areas in southern Colombia, Pasto is a center for cattle ranching. It’s also had its fair share of earthquakes, but most of the colonial buildings still stand despite other buildings being destroyed over time. It is noteworthy as a historical center, because for many years during the Independence Wars it was a stronghold of the Spanish forces, and was the last Colombian city to fall to the patriots. Overall the setting here is a very attractive one, helped no doubt by the presence of the Volcán Galaras, which overlooks the city from the west.
The main plaza here is the Parque Antonio Nariño. The Gobernación building is a fine example of historical architecture. Also here you’ll find the Iglesia de San Juan Batista (Mon–Fri 7.30am–11am, Sat 3.30–6.30pm, Sun 7.30am–1am), which, founded in 1537 is the oldest church in Pasto. The outside is blocky and slightly forbidding, but the interior is ornate and cavernous. Other churches worth exploring nearby include the Cristo Rey (Calle 20, no. 24–64) and La Merced (Calle 18 at Carrera 22).
Another branch of the Gold Museum, the Museo del Oro Nariño (Calle 19, no. 21–27; tel: 2-721 9100; Tue–Sat 10am–5pm; free) can be found here in Pasto. It has exhibitions showcasing artifacts from the indigenous communities of Southern Colombia, as well as a library and an auditorium. Also in the city center is the Museo Alfonso Zambrano (Calle 20, no. 29–79; tel: 2-731 2837; Mon–Sat 8am–noon, 2–4pm; free), which has a nice collection of colonial and indigenous art, with a particular focus on Quiteño (those from Quito) pieces.
Santuario Las Lejas.
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Toward the border
Those heading south to Ecuador will stop in at Ipiales, the last major town before the border. It’s about a 2-hour trip, and nearby is one of the most striking churches anywhere, Santuario Las Lejas (7km/4 miles from Ipiales; www.santuariolavirgendelaslajas.com). Its origins are mystical, even by church standards. In 1754 a woman, Maria, and her deaf-mute daughter Rosa were traveling between Potosi and Ipiales and stopped at a cave near the Guaitara River. Rosa entered the cave and when she returned, she had the powers of speech. Days later Rosa went to the cave again where she encountered the Mother Mary and Baby Jesus. Later, Rosa fell ill and died, and the Mother Mary resurrected her. People began to visit the cave in droves, and that same year a priest built a straw church at the site. They first began the church as we know it today in 1899, and it wasn’t finished until 50 years later. The church, located on the side of a gorge, is one of the greatest examples of Gothic Revival architecture in Colombia, maybe even the world.
Ipiales is 2km (1 mile) from the Rumichaca Bridge, which crosses the Río Carchi, and forms the border with Ecuador. Buses and colectivos run from Calle 14/Carrera 11 in Ipiales to the border, for around US$1. A taxi should cost between US$5–7. For visa issues contact the Ecuadorian Consulate in Ipiales, located in the Oficina Migracion (Carrera 7, no. 14–10; tel: 1-773 2292; Mon–Fri 9am–noon, 2–5pm).