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Accommodations
Over the last 10 years or so, as Colombia has earned a reputation as a safe country to visit, new accommodations have been popping up regularly. There are more lodging options than ever before, and this is evidenced by the international hotel chains that have a presence in the big cities as well as the abundance of hostels throughout the country. In fact it’s hard to believe that as recently as the 1980s few, if any, hostels existed in Colombia. Hostel prices tend to be comparable throughout the country, while hotels range from low to mid-range and high end. Outside of cities and towns you can sometimes find fincas (farmhouses) that have been converted into guesthouses, similar to a bed-and-breakfast. Usually this involves sharing space with the owner(s) of the finca (often a family), and breakfast is typically included. The same is true of hospedajes (often converted homes run by a family). Those visiting the Zona Cafetera can choose to stay on a working coffee farm, which is experience in itself and highly recommended. The high season for all accommodations is December–February, so plan on paying higher prices during this period. Making reservations through websites like www.booking.com and www.kayak.com is common and efficient.
Addresses
Colombia’s address system can throw anyone off. It is similar to many other countries in South America. It works like this: street-crossing-house number. Or, using a real-life example, you’ll likely encounter: Carrera 11, no. 15–23.
Calles and carreras are streets and avenues, and they are typically numbered. In this instance 15 would be a calle. In Colombian addresses, typically Carreras cross calles and vice-versa. You are just as likely to see an address like ‘Carrera 11, no. 15–23’ as you are ‘Calle 15, no. 11–23’. Which comes first depends on which block the building faces. The final field represents the building or house number.
Colombian addresses can include letters (Carrera 10a, or Calle 5b), as sometimes there can be more than one of the same number calle or carrera. Add to that diagonals, transversals, and circulars, and you’ve got something of an eclectic postal system. It may seem overwhelming, but in time you’ll get used to it. It’s also worth noting that most cities and towns are set up on an easy-to-navigate grid system, so using Google Maps can really help cut through the confusion and help you get the lay of the land, wherever you may be in Colombia.
Admission charges
Most of Colombia’s museums charge around US$2–5 for entrance. However, many are free on Sunday. For example, all of Bogotá’s museums are free on Sunday, which means you can enjoy some of the country’s best culture for nothing. But be warned: because the entrance is free on Sunday, crowds are even bigger, so expect the Gold Museum to be even more hectic and crowded than it usually is.
As for transportation, most cities have a metro system, and rides are typically purchased on a pre-paid, rechargeable card. These usually cost around US$1 to purchase.
For discos, often a small cover charge (sometimes including a free cocktail or beer) will be required at the door. This can range anywhere between US$2–10 depending on the size and quality of the disco. For regular bars, there is typically no cover charge to enter.
Age restrictions
The legal drinking age in Colombia is 18, as with most Latin American countries, the scrutiny over drinkers’ age has been lax. However, new laws have been passed intended to crackdown on underage drinkers. Being served alcohol anywhere shouldn’t be a problem, as long as you have proper ID. Usually a passport copy will suffice for this purpose. To rent a car in Colombia, the renter must be at least 21 years of age and possess a valid driver’s license from their home country.
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Budgeting for your trip
Average prices when traveling around Colombia:
Beer: US$1.50
Glass of house wine: US$ 2.50
Main course at budget restaurant: US$3
Main course at a moderate restaurant: US$5–8
Main course at an expensive restaurant: US$10+
Reservation at a cheap hotel: US$15–25 per night
Reservation at a moderate hotel: US$25–60 per night
Reservation at an expensive hotel: US$80+
Average taxi fare around most large cities: US$5–8
Average taxi fare around smaller cities and towns: US$2–4
Average price of a city bus ticket: US$0.75
Average price for a metro ticket: US$0.75
Overall Colombia’s economy is stable. However, it is subject to fluctuations, particularly when global gas prices go down. The currency devaluation of 2014/ 2015, is an example of this.
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Children
Like many Latin American countries, Colombia is very family-oriented as a culture. It’s not uncommon for families to go out for meals in big groups with their children, so you will have no problems doing the same. Often hotels and other establishments will make accommodations for children, and kids usually receive reduced-price admission at places like museums and theme parks, provided they are aged under 12 or thereabouts. Often children under three can receive free or reduced-fare bus and airline tickets if they share a seat with a parent. Many of the higher end hotels offer baby-sitting services, but finding this in mid-range and budget lodgings isn’t likely. Regardless, those traveling with children will likely find themselves engaging more with local Colombian families, which is always a good thing. Also, officials are likely to be even more willing to accommodate a traveler when they see they have children with them.
Climate
Due to Colombia’s position near the equator, it doesn’t enjoy seasons in the strictest sense of the word. Temperature variations in the country depend on location and altitude: the coast is always hot and humid; Bogotá is mostly drizzly, overcast, and chilly during the nights. The higher (or lower) you travel in terms of altitude determines the various climates you’ll experience. Wet and dry seasons exist in most areas of the country, with precipitation levels varying between locations.
Central Andes (Bogotá)
April to October is considered the rainy season in and around Bogotá. The best time to visit is between December and February, and this is a general rule of thumb for all cities and towns in the country. The average high temperature in Bogotá is around 66°F (19°C) and the average low is around 41°F (5°C). Often the climate here is sunny or partly cloudy during the day, while at night temperatures fall to the point that warm-weather clothing is required.
Caribbean lowlands (Cartagena)
Expect the Caribbean coast to be very hot. The average high temperature in Cartagena is around 86°F (30°C) all year round, and the average low is 77°F (25°C), with high humidity. Temperatures can get even higher the farther east from Cartagena you travel, such as in Barranquilla and Santa Marta.
Southern Colombia (Cali)
There are few temperature variations in southern Colombia due to its proximity to the equator. Cali’s average high temperature is 77°F (25°C) and the average low is 65°F (18°C). Due to Cali’s altitude and its tropical-savanna climate, the days can be quite warm.
Antioquia (Medellín)
Much of Antioquia sits at altitudes well of over 1,000 meters, so most of its cities and towns enjoy a perpetual spring-like climate, especially Medellín. Average high temperatures here are 71–74°F (22–23°C) throughout the year, and the average low temperatures are 53–55°F (12–13°C).
Zona Cafetera
Like Antioquia, the cities and towns in the Zona Cafetera are at altitude, so the higher temperatures are mitigated by low humidity. The average high temperature in Armenia, for example, is 80°F (27°C) all year, and the average low is 59°F (15°C).
Amazonas
Rather than wet/dry seasons, Amazonas Department has high-water/low-water seasons denoting the level of the Amazon River at the time. The high season is December–May and the low season is June–November. The average temperature in the Amazon is 80°F (27°C) year round with high humidity.
Northwest Colombia (Chocó)
This region is one of the wettest in the world. Precipitation here averages between 600-800mm (23–31ins) per month, all year round. The average low temperature throughout the year is 71°F (22°C) and the average high is 86°F (30°C), with high humidity.
Crime and safety
For a country that has dealt with internal armed conflict for over 50 years, Colombia has made great strides in terms of safety. As of early 2017, the government is on the verge of a peace deal with the country’s largest guerrilla group, the FARC. Moreover, their operation, and those of other rebel groups, such as the National Liberation Army (ELN), has been significantly degraded, and they’ve been forced out of most major urban areas into the remote countryside or jungle. Now more than ever, Colombia is regarded as a generally safe destination for tourists. Tens of thousands of US citizens visit the country every year without incident.
However risks do exist. Violence and guerrilla activity continue to plague certain parts of the country, like Chocó Department. As long as there is no peace deal, terrorism will always be a possibility. Also, because some 80 percent of the world’s cocaine production occurs in Colombia, narco-trafficking is also a very real reality. Therefore no traveler should leave their bags unattended in transportation hubs, and never agree to carry someone else’s bag for them.
Petty crime also remains a problem throughout Colombia. There have been reports of foreign travelers being mugged or even robbed at gunpoint. These incidents occur in various locations across the country, including city streets, taxis, and public transportation. Often the assailants are only interested in money, so if this happens, it’s best to oblige them without resistance. Most important is to avoid traveling alone, always travel in clearly marked taxis, avoid areas in large cities that are dangerous at night, such as public parks and the downtown neighborhoods, and take the usual precautions: don’t leave valuables lying around your hotel or hostel room, avoid wearing flashy jewelry and general displays of wealth. If a member of the police or military approaches you asks for ID, always be polite and produce it for them. A paper copy will often suffice.
For (mostly) up-to-date safety information, including a list of Colombian areas generally considered to be safe for travel, see: www.travel.state.gov and www.gov.uk. Both of these resources acknowledge that it’s possible for the security situation in Colombia to change on short notice, so you should always pay attention to the warnings issued by local authorities. You can also get more specific safety information by calling 1-888 407 4747.
Customs
Customs checks occur at airports and land and river crossings between Venezuela, Brazil, Ecuador, and Peru. Due to the drug trade, customs checks at airports can be extensive, and sometimes there are military checks on long-distance bus routes where passengers are asked to produce ID. Always monitor your baggage at airports and bus terminals, and never carry firearms or drugs when traveling.
When entering and exiting Colombia, travelers are allowed the following: 200 cigarettes, 50 cigars, and fewer than 50 grams of tobacco; two bottles of alcoholic beverages; and a reasonable quantity of perfume. Currency import regulations state that amounts exceeding US$10,000 or equivalent currency must be declared on arrival. All vegetables, plants and food of animal origin is prohibited from entering or leaving the country. Passengers arriving to Colombia with cats or dogs must first get authorization and approval from the Colombian Agricultural Institute (ICA; Bogota, Carrera 41, no. 17–43; tel: 1-332 3700; www.ica.gov.co; Mon–Fri 8am–5pm).
As of January 2017 there is an airport embarkation tax of US$37.
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Disabled travelers
Disabled travelers to Colombia will find a country that, in some areas, accommodates their needs, yet is woefully underdeveloped in parts. For example, new hotels and lodging options are required to provide disability access, and most live up to this standard. However, in certain older neighborhoods and towns, especially the colonial ones, old buildings and streets may not be suitable for disabled travelers. As for transportation, the modern metro systems in the big cities offer disability access, but local minibuses are typically small and unmodified, which may present problems to mobility-impaired travelers who want to travel to certain local areas.
The best way to view Colombia is that it is an imperfect country where it concerns the needs of the disabled, but that it is improving incrementally all the time. Having said that, there’s nothing stopping those with disabilities from enjoying this beautiful country to the fullest. Some useful online resources to help achieve this include: European Network for Accessible Tourism (ENAT; www.accessibletourism.org), the US State Department’s Traveling with Disabilities section (www.travel.state.gov/content/passports/en/go/disabilities.html), Accessible Journeys (www.disabilitytravel.com/access-network), and the Society for Accessible Travel & Hospitality’s list of disability travel websites (www.sath.org/disability-travel-websites).
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Eating out
Despite having a rich and tasty legacy of various unique cuisines throughout the country, it’s only recently that Colombia began enjoying a reputation as a top global foodie destination. Perhaps this has to do with the new cutting-edge restaurants popping up all over the wealthier neighborhoods in major cities. Regardless, visitors with a healthy appetite will want to experience the traditional regional cuisine that is so much a part of the country’s fabric. There’s no better way to do this than by taking part in the set lunch specials offered by eateries in most cities and towns. Not only will you be able to sample local fare this way, but you will do so at a steep discount to dinner prices. Set lunch meals usually cost between US$4–6 and typically include a starter, main course, dessert, and juice.
As for the higher-end restaurants, rarely is it necessary to make a reservation, except at the most popular and/or expensive options, such as Andres Carne de Res in Bogotá, and walk-ins are usually welcome. Also, while Colombians are polite, meal etiquette isn’t particularly strict. Colombians like to eat with family and friends in a more relaxed atmosphere, so join in and have fun.
Electricity
Colombia’s voltage is 110V–120V, which is the same as in the US and Canada. Primary socket types are North American grounded or non-grounded (two/three-pin plugs). European plugs will require a plug adapter; 220–240V appliances will require a transformer.
Embassies and consulates
Some principal embassies for English-speaking countries in include:
United States: Calle 24, no. 48–50, Bogotá; tel: 1-275 2000; https://bogota.usembassy.gov; Mon–Fri 8am–noon
Colombian embassy in United States: 1724 Massachusetts Avenue NW, Washington, DC 20036; tel: 202-387 8338; www.colombiaemb.org; Mon–Fri 8.30am–2.30pm
Canada: Carrera 7, no. 114–33 14th floor; Bogotá; tel: 1-657 9800; www.canadainternational.gc.ca; Mon–Thu 8am–12.30pm, 1.30–5pm, Fri 8am–1.30pm
Colombian embassy in Canada: 360 Albert Street, 1002, Ottawa ON1 K1R 7X7; tel: 613 230 3760; Mon–Fri 9am–1pm
UK: Carrera 9, no. 76–49 8th floor; Bogotá; tel: 1-326 8300; www.gov.uk; Mon, Tue, Thu, Fri 9am–12.30pm
Colombian embassy in UK: 35 Portland Place, W1B 1AE, London, 3rd floor; tel: 020 763 79893; Mon–Fri 9am–1.30pm; document delivery 3–4.30pm
Australia: Carrera 9, no. 115–06; Bogotá; tel: 1-657 7800; the Australian embassy offers limited consular services; for assistance with visa issues it’s best to go through their principal embassy in Santiago, Chile: www.chile.embassy.gov.au
Colombian embassy in Australia: Suite 2, Level 12, 100 Walker Street, North Sydney NSW 2060; tel: 2-9955 0311; Mon-Fri 7am–1pm, 2–4pm
Colombian embassy in New Zealand: 191 Queen Street, Auckland Central, Auckland City, New Zealand; tel: 09-300 6390; Mon–Fri 9am–1pm, 2–5pm
South Africa: tel: 1-214 0397; www.dirco.gov.za; limited consular services–best to go through the embassy in Caracas, Venezuela: tel: 58 212-952 0026
Colombian embassy in South Africa: 1105 Park Street 3rd Floor, Park Corner Building, Hatfield, Pretoria, South Africa; tel: 12 3623106; Mon–Fri 8.30am–12.30pm, 2–4pm
Ireland: Avenue Americas 56-41; Bogotá; tel: 1-432 0695; www.dfa.ie; Mon–Fri 9am–4pm; just an honorary consul; the embassy is in London
Emergency numbers
National police/Red Cross ambulance 24-hour line/fire department: tel: 123; civil defense: tel: 1-700 6465 (Bogotá), tel: 123 rest of country; tourist police: tel: 1-337 4413 (Bogotá).
Etiquette
Colombians are notably relaxed where it concerns formalities. Aside from church (where the general rules of decorum and quiet are practiced), you’ll find that no matter the city or town, locals don’t make a big to-do about etiquette. If a person or family invites you to their home for a meal – a common occurrence as Colombians are famously hospitable – you’ll find that arrival times aren’t particularly strict and there’s no real dress code. Often it’s the foreigners who are thrown off the most, especially when they bring notions of etiquette from their home country. Remember that Colombians place enjoyment and fellowship above rules; go with the flow and you’ll have a great, stress-free time.
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Festivals
Colombians love a party, and as proof of this there are more official festivals in each municipality than there are days in the calendar year. Here’s a list of the most famous.
January
Feria de Manizales. In early January the coffee-producing city of Manizales throws a diverse party featuring parades, costumes, live music, tango dancing, stunt shows, and beauty queens.
Hay Festival Cartagena. (www.hayfestival.com/cartagena) This is the Cartagena de India branch of the UK’s Hay Festival, which takes place at the end of January and focuses on literature, art, cinema, music, geopolitics, and the environment. The purpose is to promote culture and social responsibility.
Carnival de Pasto. (www.carnavaldepasto.org) The southwestern city of Pasto has its own carnival, which takes place at the end of January or around the beginning of February. Face painting with black grease and white flour signifies the emancipation of slaves, and there are floats and processions.
February and March
Barranquilla Carnival. This is one of the biggest carnival celebrations in South America. People flock to downtown Barranquilla where, four days before Ash Wednesday, parades and dancing lead to copious amounts of partying.
March and April
Semana Santa. The traditional Holy Week is a big event throughout the country. Most cities and towns will feature processions, but the pageantry is particularly notable in places like Popayán.
April
Fiesta Leyenda Vallenata. (www.valledupar.com/festival) The city of Valledupar explodes every year in late April with a four-day party celebrating locally invented vallenato music. During the day crowds gather in Plaza Alfonso Lopez, while at night tens of thousands pack the concert area by the river for more revelry. The festival culminates in an award for best musician.
June
Festival Folclórico y Reinado Nacional de Bambuco. From mid-June to early July the biggest festival in Huila Department takes place in Neiva. There’s live music, floats, traditional dances, and many eye-catching dresses and costumes.
August
Feria de Flores. (www.feriadelasfloresmedellin.gov.co) In the ‘City of the Eternal Spring,’ flowers are always in bloom. Medellín celebrates this every year during the first two weeks of August, when harvesters line the streets carrying great floral displays on their backs. There are also horse shows, concerts, and street parties.
Festival del Viento y de los Cometas. Whatever the windiest August weekend is in in Villa de Leyva, that’s when the town holds its famous kite festival. For three days everyone packs the central plaza to display their aerial prowess. Contest involve, among other things, best handmade kite and best practitioner in the kids’ division.
September
Jazz al Parque. (www.jazzalparque.gov.co) For a weekend in early to mid-September, local and international musicians descend on Bogotá’s parks and treat audience members to various types of jazz, including instrumental and big band.
Fiesta de San Pacho. (http://sanpachobendito.org) Every year in September Chocó Department holds their own carnivalesque celebration, which usually lasts for a couple weeks or more.
November
Independence in Cartagena. The first two weeks in Cartagena see parties celebrating the city being the first to achieve independence from Spain. The event is now linked to the national beauty pageant, which, as the official information states, is held to “unite Colombian regions around the beauty of Colombian women.’
Festival Pirarucú de Oro. This festival has been going on since 1987, and takes place in mid-November. It celebrates Amazonian popular music, which has influences in Brazil and Peru as well. Live music and dance is the order of the day.
December
Festival de Luces. On the 7th, 8th, and 9th of December, Villa de Leyva’s sprawling central square is lit up with fireworks in order to celebrate the impending Christmas.
Feria de Cali. (www.feriadecali.com). From the 25th to 30th of December, Cali reminds the world why it’s synonymous with salsa. There are live music concerts, Paso Fino horse parades, revelry, and, of course, much dancing.
For more information on Colombian festivals, see: www.colombia.travel/en/fairs-and-festivals.
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Gay and lesbian travelers
For a predominantly Catholic country, Colombia is fairly progressive where it concerns gay rights. It may not have been the first South American country to legalize gay marriage (that honor goes to Argentina), but in 2016 it did become the fourth after a constitutional court extended marriage rights beyond mere civil partnerships. The country’s capital city even has a thriving gay neighborhood, Chapinero, with an official LGBT community center (Calle 66, no. 9a–28; tel: 1-249 0049; http://ccdlgbt.blogspot.com.co).
Aside from progressive laws and pockets of gay neighborhoods in major cities, the general culture of Colombia still errs on the traditional side. Homosexuality often isn’t as accepted in the smaller towns as it is in the big cities. LGBTQ travelers should be aware of these sensibilities and, although it isn’t the ideal scenario, act with prudence. That said, visitors will find most Colombians to be accepting of all kinds of people, sexual orientation aside.
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Health and medical care
Before you go
It’s recommended that anyone planning a trip to Colombia see his or her healthcare provider at least six weeks before arriving in the country. Try to get a dental check-up before leaving and if you have chronic health concerns you may want to consider getting a medical ID (www.medicalert.org).
Vaccinations and health risks
Travelers should be up-to-date on routine vaccinations, which include measles, diphtheria, polio, chicken pox, and a yearly flu shot. Anyone planning a trip to the Amazon will want to get a yellow fever vaccination, and these are offered free of charge at the clinic in the Bogotá bus terminal.
Most visitors to Colombia rarely experience any health issues. However, traveler’s diarrhoea caused by contaminated food can be an issue, as can swimming in polluted water. Typically tap water in the big cities is safe, but many travelers opt for bottled water regardless. Altitude sickness can be a problem for those arriving in the capital, in which case the best prescription is to take it easy and drink plenty of water. Malaria isn’t typically a problem in Colombia, however there is a minor risk. Consult your physician in regards to malaria tablets or taking a round of doxycycline.
Insurance
Visitors from the UK and Europe might be surprised to learn that there is no functioning public health system in Colombia, while visitors from the United States will find a system similar to theirs back home. Most of Colombia’s healthcare is privatized. However, there is subsidized insurance for locals living at or below the poverty line. What this means for visitors, however, is that if you get in an accident and need medical care in a clinic or hospital, you will have to pay.
Therefore all visitors to Colombia should buy travel insurance before arriving. One helpful resource that can cut through much of the noise and help you to find a good option quick is www.toptenreviews.com/services/insurance/best-travel-insurance/. Make sure the insurance covers all activities you may be partaking in upon arrival, including and especially adventure sports, trekking, and mountaineering. Ensure that your coverage includes air-ambulance service and emergency flights home.
Those who end up in hospital without health insurance will be faced with exorbitant fees. Be sure to get itemized receipts for any medical services you receive.
Pharmacies and hospitals
Pharmacies are common in every city and town in Colombia. Like in many Latin American countries, pharmacists are allowed to dispense basic, non-opioid medications without a prescription. That means visitors suffering from common afflictions (earache, sore throat, traveler’s diarrhoea, etc) should be able to consult a pharmacist and receive the appropriate medication without paying for a doctor’s visit. One large pharmacy chain in the country is Drogas La Rebaja (www.larebajavirtual.com; tel: 01-8000 93 9900; look for the yellow and red-striped sign). In the capital, many of these pharmacies are open until 8pm or 10pm, but a few are open 24 hours. There’s a La Rebaja Plus in Chapinero (Calle 57, no. 09–75) and another 24-hour option in the northwest (La Esperanza, no. 43a–11).
As for hospitals, Colombia boasts some of the best on the continent. Travelers’ insurance should cover stays in these facilities, and some standout options in the capital include: Clinica del Country (Carrera 16, no. 82–5; tel: 1-530 0470; www.clinicadelcountry.com) and Fundación Santa Fe de Bogotá (Carrera 7, no. 117–15; tel: 1-603 0303; www.fsfb.org.co). Another useful health resource besides www.cdc.gov is the British Travel Health Association.
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Internet
Most hotels and hostels in Colombia have Wi-Fi access. Even many hospedajes and other family-run lodgings have wireless internet. The speed of such service depends on how remote the town or city you’re staying in is. Internet will always be faster in major metropolitan areas than rural areas. Internet cafés are abundant in major cities, and many can be found in the downtown areas.
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Left luggage
Most airport hubs and major bus terminals have left-luggage amenities. Prices vary, but you can expect to pay about US$0.50–1 per hour.
Lost property
Most airports and bus terminals have some version of a lost and found, usually for wayward bags. If you’ve experienced theft of any kind, be sure to file a police report for your insurance records. If your passport has been lost or stolen, file a police report in the jurisdiction where the loss or theft occurred, and report it right away to your embassy.
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Maps
Almost all official tourist information points in the country will have free maps available for visitors. Tourist offices in many of the big cities not only offer maps of the municipality, but also of the public transportation routes.
Media
Magazines and newspapers
One of the best Spanish-language publications is Semana (www.semana.com). For English-language, Bogotá’s The City Paper is hard to beat. It provides great info and equally good reporting.
The main newspapers in major cities mostly focus on regional issues. Some principal newspapers include:
In Bogotá: El Tiempo, www.eltiempo.com, El Espectador, www.elespectador.com, La República, www.larepublica.com.co.
Caribbean coast: El Heraldo, www.elheraldo.co.
Cali: El País, www.elpais.com.co, El Pueblo, www.elpueblo.com.co.
Medellín: El Mundo, www.elmundo.com, El Colombiano, www.elcolombiano.com.
Radio
There are plenty of terrestrial radio stations, as well as digital options in major cities like Bogotá. For news (and a variety of music), try W Radio (www.wradio.com.co). It can be found online or at frequency 690 kHz 99.9 MHz. Caracol Radio also has sports and news (www.caracol.com.co; 810 kHz 100.9 MHz)
Television stations
Colombia has around 20 TV stations varying in size and influence from region to region. The two biggest stations are the state-owned RCN (www.canalrcn.com) and the private Caracol (www.caracoltv.com), both of which are predominantly entertainment channels (lots of telenovelas – Colombian soap operas). NTN24 (www.ntn24.com) delivers 24-hour news coverage, and CNN is often available in hotels/hostels with satellite TV.
Money
Colombia’s official currency is the Colombian peso (COL$). Notes are available in denominations of COL$2,000, COL$5,000, COL$10,000, COL$20,000, COL$50,000 and COL$100,000; the most common coins are the COL$100, COL$200, COL$500 and COL$1,000. Prices given in this book are in US$; at the time of writing, May 2017, US$1 is worth roughly COL$3,000.
Most ATMs accept international debit and credit cards. Those who want to avoid multiple bank fees and international charges should take out as much money as possible at any given time. Banco de Bogotá (www.bancodebogota.com) is a standard ATM that gives out larger amounts (around COL$600,000 per transaction).
Also, EMV (Europay, MasterCard, and Visa) chip technology means it’s more secure than ever to use your card when paying for goods and services in Colombia. Be sure to keep reserves of local currency on hand when traveling throughout the country as remote areas of Colombia often have shortages of ATMs.
Tipping
A 10 percent gratuity is expected at most sit-down restaurants and cafés. About half of all eateries in Colombia will automatically add a 10-percent gratuity to the bill. Be sure to ask your server before paying if servicio is included in the bill or not.
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Nightlife
Colombia’s nightlife is as varied as it is raucous. This is a culture that likes to party and imbibe. The younger generation in the cities and big towns often prefer the rage-all-night discos. Many, in places like Cali, will opt for a salsoteca where they can swing their hips until the wee hours of the morning. However, salsa dance knows no age limit, and revelers young and old, male and female, pack the near limitless salsa clubs found throughout the country in order to court one another or just let off some steam after a long workday. Beer is a staple of the bars and clubs and (depending on the department you happen to be in) rum or aguardiente will also be flowing freely. There’s no shortage of tropical cocktails along the coast either. The legal drinking age is 18, and in certain areas the police are cracking down on underage drinking. Be prepared to show ID at many hotspot doors, even if you look well over 18.
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Opening hours
Business hours in Colombia are often 8am–noon, 2–5pm (or 6pm), with slightly shorter hours on weekends. The two-hour gap is reserved for the siesta, which is practiced in many establishments (although not all of them in the major cities). Banks are typically open Mon–Fri from 9am–3pm or 4pm. Many establishments will be closed on the biggest of public holidays.
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Photography
It’s rarely prohibited to take photos in museums or at tourist attractions. However, when touring indigenous areas with members of the community, be sure to ask permission for any photos you wish to take. Some indigenous do find it rude to take their picture without permission.
Postal services
There are two major postal services in Colombia: Deprisa (tel: 01-8000 519393; www.deprisa.com), which is run by the national air carrier Avianca and offers cargo shipping, and 4–72 (tel: 01-8000 111210; www.4-72.com.co). Deprisa can be found at major hubs, but 4-72 has offices in many more locations including most cities and towns. It costs around US$0.75–1 to send an international postcard and around US$1–2 to send a letter up to 20 grams via regular mail. DHL and FedEx also operate in Colombia.
Public holidays
Holidays typically fall on a Monday in Colombia, and if the exact date falls outside of that, the holiday is moved up to the following Monday. Public holidays are known as puentes (bridges), because they connect the weekend and working days.
1st January: New Year’s Day
Early January: Día de los Reyes Magos (Three King’s Day), or the Epiphany
19th March: Saint Joseph’s Day
Holy Week: Semana Santa (Easter)
1st May: Labor Day
May: Ascension Day (occurs 29 days after Easter Sunday)
May/ June: Corpus Christi (around two months after Easter Sunday)
29 June: Saint Peter and Saint Paul
June/ July: Sacred Heart (occurs 10 weeks and one day after Easter Sunday)
20 July: Independence Day
7 August: Battle of Boyacá
15 August: Assumption
12 October: Columbus’ arrival in America
1 November: All Saints’ Day
11 November: Independence of Cartagena
8 December: Immaculate Conception
25 December: Christmas Day
R
Religious services
Roman Catholicism is the dominant religion in Colombia, and it is a pronounced part of the country’s culture. However, while most Colombians are Catholic, they are not entirely beholden to Rome: around 75 percent of the population are nominal Catholics, but only 25 percent identify as practicing Catholics. That means there’s a great deal of tolerance for other ideas and lifestyles, with most Colombians adopting a live-and-let-live attitude. In general Colombians observe most religious holidays.
Restrooms
Most restrooms in Colombia are of the standard variety. You’ll find that, aside from some of the highest-end hotels, you’re required to dispose of toilet paper in a bin as opposed to flushing it. If you’re not a patron, budget restaurants will often let you use their restrooms for a price, around US$0.20 or so. Most bus terminals charge to use the restrooms.
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Shopping
In the major cities of Colombia you’ll find explosions of commerce in the form of centro comerciales. In Medellín, for example, you can barely throw a rock without hitting a shopping mall of some sort. The downtown areas of the biggest cities tend to offer the best deals, while the zona rosas typically have an abundance of chic boutiques and upscale retailers.
In more recent times travelers with an eye for fashion have come to the country on the hunt for knitted purses. The most authentic are typically crafted in indigenous communities, often outside of Valledupar or in Guajira. The quality of these goods is beyond reproach; the elegant method of knitting them has been passed down through generations of indigenous women for hundreds of years. For them it’s as much a spiritual act as it is one of crafting. The bags typically range between US$25–30, and this is one time you don’t want to haggle. Just pay the asking price and be happy in the knowledge you’re getting a quality product for about 75 percent less than what it would cost in a boutique back home.
Smoking
Colombia, like most Latin American countries, has more or less kept up with global trends where it concerns smoking cigarettes. That means there are few areas anymore where you’re free to smoke around others. Smoking has been banned indoors and in restaurants, and this goes for the smallest of provincial, family-run eateries as well. Smoking is often allowed on restaurant patios, but not in enclosed public spaces. It goes without saying that if you are invited into someone’s home, you should ask before lighting up.
Student travelers
Full-time students should take advantage of the International Student Identity Card (ISIC; www.isic.org), available in 70 countries. Possessing one may just entitle you to discounts on transportation and other services and goods. To be honest, though, redeeming these savings may prove difficult, since ISIC isn’t exactly on par with American Express in Colombia. Still, teachers can get in on the action by requesting an ITIC (International Teacher Identity Card), also available from ISIC’s website.
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Tax
As of early 2017 the airport departure tax from Colombia is US$37, and this is not included in your airline ticket. Value Added Tax (VAT) in Colombia is 16 percent. In theory foreigners shouldn’t have to pay it, but some more expensive hotels add it on anyway. You can request an official VAT report on your bill from hotels that do add the tax.
Telephone
Most cities and towns have an abundance of telecommunications offices where you can enter a cabina (cabin) and make local or international calls, paying by the minute. A screen on the phone often displays the price, and these can vary from location to location. Street vendors with signs marked minutos will also allow you to make a call for a charge. You can buy a pay-as-you-go SIM card (around US$2) for your mobile if you choose to make calls within the country, and the main telecommunications carriers are Claro and Movistar. However, these days most Colombians use the cellphone app WhatsApp (www.whatsapp.com) to communicate with one another. It’s free and allows you to send texts where you are without the need to change SIM cards. Often hotels, hospedajes, and hostels will have a WhatsApp number. For making calls, if outside the area you are calling, dial the one-digit area code followed by the seven-digit number.
Time zone
GMT-5 throughout the year – meaning it’s always five hours earlier than Greenwich Mean Time, one hour behind New York City, and two hours ahead of Los Angeles.
Tourist information
You’ll find contact information for the principal tourist offices in each town or city throughout the text. Not every town or city has a functional tourist office, but with tourism on the rise in Colombia, expect this to change in the coming years. The main tourist office in Bogotá is in Plaza Bolívar at Carrera 8, no. 9–83, Mon–Sat 8am–6pm, Sun 8am–4pm.
Helpful websites
www.colombianhostels.com.co Extensive network of backpackers hostels in Colombia. A great resource.
www.clubhaciendasdelcafe.com List of coffee fincas that offer tours/ lodging in the Zona Cafetera.
www.despegar.com Booking site for cheap flights within Latin America.
www.procolombia.co Information on investing, business, and tourism in Colombia (in English and Spanish)
www.ideam.gov.co For weather and climate information (In Spanish).
www.igac.gov.co For maps of the country.
www.presidencia.gov.co Government website.
Tour operators
UK and Australia
Insight Guides tel: 020 7403 0284 www.insightguides.com
Exodus Travels tel: 0203 131 5501 www.exodus.co.uk
Intrepid Travel tel: 1-510 285 0640 www.intrepidtravel.com
Dragoman tel: 1-855 273 0866 www.dragoman.co.uk
STA Travel tel: 800-781 4040 www.statravel.com
You can find an even more extensive list of UK providers at the Latin American Travel Association (LATA) Tel: 203 713 6688 www.lata.org
North America
4&5 South America Travel tel: 1-800 747 4540 www.southamerica.travel
Passport: South America www.passportsouthamerica.com (company offering curated trips to Colombia as well as other SA destinations).
Gap Adventures tel: 1-800 553 8701 www.seecolombia.travel
South America
Colombian Highland Tours/Passport: South America tel: 310-552 9079 www.colombianhighlands.com, www.passportsouthamerica.com (joint venture offering tailor-made tours throughout all parts of Colombia, as well as other South American countries).
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Visas and passports
Colombia typically offers a standard 90-day tourist visa upon arrival. Passports are stamped upon entering the country and you must receive an exit stamp before leaving. If crossing the border overland know that the larger towns and cities often have a Migracion Colombia office, but the smaller ones may not. It’s best to get all your requisite passport stamps in the largest city closest to your exit point. Those who are required to apply for a visa before arrival into Colombia include nationals of Bulgaria, Russia, and the Middle East (excluding Israel), Asian countries (excluding Japan, South Korea, Philippines, Indonesia, and Singapore), Haiti, Nicaragua, and all African countries. The visa process is similar from nation to nation: present multiple photos over white background and a completed application form; allow two weeks for processing. If you’re in doubt about the visa requirements concerning your home country, check regulations.
You can request a 90-day visa extension, a salvoconducto, at any Migracion Colombia office (typically only Mon–Fri). The price, as of early 2017, is US$23. This will typically be processed on the spot or within 24 hours. Don’t apply for the extension any later than 2–3 days before your visa expires. If you do overstay your visa you will incur a fine of around US$133, which only increases the longer you stay. You may be able to get a visa extension before even arriving in Colombia by consulting the embassy in your country of residence, but typically you need a compelling reason, such as medical treatment.
You can’t study or volunteer on a tourist visa, so you will need a student visa. If you have already contacted a language institute or volunteer organization, they may well sponsor your visa. You can get a student visa in Colombia, and it lasts six months. They may ask you to provide proof of funds (showing that you have US$400–600 is often sufficient). You can only obtain Colombian business visas outside of the country at the appropriate embassy. The Ministerio de Relaciones Exteriores (Calle 10, no 5–51, Palacio de San Carlos, tel: 01-800-097 9899 or 382 6999, Mon–Fri 7.30am–4pm), in Bogotá, processes student and some work visas. You must register your business or student visa at Migracion Colombia within 15 days of obtaining it or you will be fined. Visa requirements change frequently so check with your consulate before your trip.
Overland border crossings into Ecuador don’t require a visa. However, US residents should know that it is now required to obtain a visa before entering Venezuela. You can only apply for one of these ‘friendship’ visas at one of the very few Venezuelan embassies in the US. It’s possible that when attempting to cross overland a border guard might ask for a bribe to waive the visa requirement. Obviously this course of action is not recommended.
For security reasons, copy your passport and keep it with you always. It can present legal problems if police request a copy of your passport and you can’t provide one. However, a copy probably won’t work as a form of identification when making a payment in a store or restaurant. Drivers’ licenses and state-issued ID cards from your home country will typically suffice for this purpose. If your passport does get lost or stolen, file a police report and request a new one at your embassy (see Embassies).
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Weights and measures
Colombia is on the metric system, but uses US gallons for gasoline
Women travelers
Solo women travelers should feel safe in Colombia. People are friendly, and if you spend time around families they will likely feel protective of you and take you in as one of their own. As with many countries, foreign women can be the object of unwanted attention from local men, but most Colombian males behave, and catcalls and aggressive flirting are the exception rather than the rule. Still, it’s best to always err on the side of caution and never go walking anywhere alone after dark. If you do go out alone, make sure a contact has the details about your location and what time you should return. Feel free to wear a wedding ring, or keep a photograph of a supposed significant other that you can produce when you’d like to rebuff unwanted advances. You can show the photo with a simple mi marido, (my husband) or mi novio (my boyfriend) and that should diffuse the situation. Knowing at least some Spanish will go a long way to avoiding danger and risky scenarios.