Introduction

More guidebooks continue to appear for our mountain playgrounds, but this book is the only one specifically focusing on non-technical ascents of selected mountains in the Canadian Rockies. These non-technical ascents, or scrambles, continue to appeal to people with a wide range of abilities. Strong hikers and backpackers who want more challenge and a better view will find this book opens many exciting opportunities. Climbers who simply want a hassle-free way of getting out, getting in shape or salvaging a day should also find this information useful. As one alpinist noted, these scramble routes make really good descent routes. Lastly, if you’re like me, and find that big climbs with heavy packs are hard on the body, you’ll probably appreciate these easier routes. “No pain, no gain” need not apply when speaking of elevation.

I have endeavoured to give concise, detailed information about level of difficulty, starting point, approaches, identity, height, elevation gain and round-trip time. Appropriate maps and any special equipment needed have also been noted. Critics have said that with all this preparation done, the adventure is gone. All you need to do now is buy, read and go conquer. In reality, despite the best information, mountains may still provide unexpected adventure with loose rock, unbridged streams and rapidly changing weather. Furthermore, a slight misinterpretation of the description can also inject new life into a normally straightforward route, as evidenced by periodic epics. Anyone stalwartly opposed to a detailed description can simply pioneer along without it anyway. My foremost aim is to give enough information so you can plan an outing on short notice, avoid nasty surprises and get to the top. I make no apologies to scramblers who experience problems owing to low cloud, fog, snow and ascents by moonlight. The premise is that you can at least see where you are going, even though it may not always be totally necessary. A modicum of ability helps too!

The Canadian Rockies encompass a huge area. This book includes a variety of mountains over a wide cross-section of this area. Some are famous postcard peaks close to tourist havens, while others are fairly obscure. Not surprisingly, most peaks are quite close to population centres. Difficulties range from little more than a strenuous hike up a very big hill, to more complex ascents involving scrambling up cliff bands, traversing narrow ridges, ascending steep gullies and moving up moderately steep snow slopes. On some routes you may need to know how to use specialized equipment such as an ice axe, crampons and very occasionally a length of climbing rope. Often the described route is not the only way up but is a route that has proven itself. Many of these routes have been in common use for decades, although more aesthetic (technical) lines often exist if you’re a purist.

Most scrambles in this book are day trips and so do not require a backpack full of camping gear. Many begin at roadside or have very good approach trails, so opportunities to experience quintessential Rockies bushwhacking, sadly, are few. Adequate information about trailheads and approaches is included, but for more detail The Canadian Rockies Trail Guide, by Brian Patton and Bart Robinson, covers the national parks, while Gillean Daffern’s trail guides cover Kananaskis Country.

Preserving what is left

Despite developers’ and industry’s best efforts, much of the Rockies is still a pristine and special place. But every time you wander off an established trail to shortcut a switchback or tramp across a delicate alpine meadow, damage occurs. If enough people do this, a dirt path develops; then rain creates a muddy track. Successive parties detour around it, widening the mudhole, and so it goes. Think before you boldly charge off the trail to blaze your own way. Just because you don’t see a single soul on the route does not mean nobody else ever goes there, so don’t discard your snotty tissue or drink can along the way. Logical, I know, but the evidence shows that it does escape some people. Mountain usage is rising steadily, so we must all do what we can to keep these places as unspoiled as possible. If seeing a teahouse being built on a mountain riles you, take a stand against it. Our elected officials have shown they are only too happy to approve development despite strong public opinion against it. Blame it on M-O-N-E-Y. If Banff and Canmore are indicators, then clearly much of the business sector sees the Rockies as their own quick ticket to riches, even if it is a national park. Preservation be damned.

We recreationists cannot afford to sit back and idly watch our special places disappear, but bit by bit, that is precisely what is happening. If we hikers, climbers, bikers and scramblers cannot treat the mountains with care and respect, then we cannot fault developers and politicians, even if they desecrate on a vastly larger scale.

Avoiding “death by scrambling”

Scrambling can not only be hazardous to your life, it can end it completely. Scrambling kills. For one reason or another, people have already died on routes described in this book. Over the last few years, a typical scrambling accident has involved a young male from Eastern Canada working a summer job in either Banff or Lake Louise. This person is full of energy and surrounded by impressive-looking mountains, but has no experience.

By distributing pamphlets to employers and displaying posters, Parks Canada has tried to inform this group in an effort to reduce future accidents. Unfortunately, the trend will probably continue, despite an abundance of information available. Still, information alone won’t always keep you out of trouble. All the reading in the world is no substitute for experience, and it is not the intention of the author to suggest otherwise.

Undertaking any of the trips mentioned in this volume is a potentially HAZARDOUS ACTIVITY and COULD KILL YOU. Particular phrases used in route descriptions may lead the reader to believe that little danger or difficulty is involved. This is NOT TRUE. Mountains are inherently dangerous and scrambling can be doubly dangerous. Participants are advised to go with caution and select a route within their level of ability and experience. If you’re not sure what your abilities are, maybe you don’t have any ability. Those without proper skills and experience should enroll in an appropriate course given by a recognized mountain school or hire a mountain guide who is accredited by the Union internationale des associations d’alpinisme (UIAA). I fully advocate appropriate training. However, in the past, climbing schools focused more on moderate rock climbing and rope-handling procedures rather than on how to identify and avoid technical terrain. The Yamnuska climbing school has a scrambling course and that would be a good starting point. Knowing the basics is important, but routefinding is a more important element to safe scrambling. In reality, routefinding cannot be taught; it is a skill that develops (hopefully!) over time.

Once you have proper training under your pack belt, the next step is to go with experienced people. Clubs such as the Alpine Club of Canada bring climbers together and offer courses, group outings and a chance to meet potential trip partners.

The biggest killer in the mountains may well be blind enthusiasm. Do not allow it to overshadow good judgment; keep your goal in perspective. Realize that no matter how hard you push or how fast you go, somebody will always be faster than you. Instead, you may as well settle for having fun and doing it safely. If conditions don’t seem right or you do not feel comfortable on the route, be smart and TURN BACK. It could save your life.

Anyone climbing mountains should strive to develop and refine their own mountain skills and rely less on the skill and judgment of others. As you do, your level of confidence and margin of safety will rise accordingly. That way you will be less dependent on written route information and can make sound decisions on your own. Do not put unbridled faith in the information contained in this or any other guidebook. Develop and use your own judgment too. Persons following any advice or suggestions within these pages do so entirely at their own risk. The risk in scrambling is DYING. Be careful.

Climbing schools

Here are a few of the longer-established schools. Check locally for others.

Yamnuska Mountain Adventures

Suite 200, Summit Centre 50,

Lincoln Park

Canmore, AB T1W 3E9

403-678-4164

info@yamnuska.com

Peter Amann Guiding

Box 1495

Jasper, AB T0E 1E0

780-852-3237

pamann@incentre.net

Rescue Dynamics

5109 17A Avenue NW

Edmonton, AB T6L 1K5

780-461-5040

rescuedynamics.ca

Useful guidebooks

A Hiker’s Guide to Scrambling Safely, by Tom Morin

The Canadian Rockies Trail Guide, by Brian Patton and Bart Robinson

Kananaskis Country Trail Guide, 4th ed., 5 vols., by Gillean Daffern

Hiking Lake Louise, by Mike Potter

The Wonder of Yoho, by Don Beers

The World of Lake Louise, by Don Beers

Backcountry Banff, by Mike Potter

Banff–Assiniboine: A Beautiful World, by Don Beers

Jasper–Robson: A Taste of Heaven, by Don Beers

Backcountry Biking in the Canadian Rockies, by Doug Eastcott