The Canadian Rockies are truly one of the great mountain ranges of the world and are unique in many ways. Although they do not attain the lofty 14,000-ft. elevations of their counterparts in the United States, the Canadian Rockies are undeniably craggier and more impressive. Similarly, while particular peaks in the Cascade Range of the Pacific Northwest may be somewhat more rugged, many barely rise above treeline. The volcanoes, obviously, are an exception. Yet, upon reaching the summit of a Cascade volcano, one sees perhaps only two or three other volcanoes rising skyward with few summits of note in between.
Europe’s Alps may outshine Canada’s Rockies for sheer magnificence of form, but sadly from every summit one sees a proliferation of mountain railways, gondola lifts, roads and hotels. Climber pampers themselves in warm huts offering hot meals, wine and bedding. Routefinding involves following paint splotches and hordes of other people, and not surprisingly any feeling of wilderness has long since disappeared.
Great ranges like the Himalayas and the Andes do surpass the Rockies in many respects, but access can be both dangerous and difficult. To many, simply staying healthy throughout the visit presents a considerable challenge, never mind trying to reach a summit.
By comparison, Canada’s Rockies boast the grandeur of innumerable craggy, glaciated peaks, difficult and remote, yet also offer myriad easier ascents close to roads. Glacially scoured basins contain pristine alpine lakes and flower-strewn meadows. Elk, bear and moose roam free, and from every mountaintop one witnesses an endless sea of summits – entertainment for a lifetime. Welcome to the Canadian Rockies!
Climate and season
Summer in the Canadian Rockies is short. Sometimes it doesn’t even show up. The climbing season is highly affected by weather patterns, and conditions in any given area vary from year to year and range to range. An old-timer once remarked that a year in the Rockies is 10 months of winter and two months of poor sleddin’. He probably hadn’t visited the Columbia Icefield: 12 months of good sleddin’!
The early scrambling season is confined to the eastern part of the Rockies in the Front Ranges. These areas are generally a little warmer and experience less precipitation, whether snow or rain. Typical examples lie east of Canmore, east of Jasper and in parts of the Crowsnest Pass. Here, south- and west-facing slopes come into condition as early as May and June. East-facing ones require a few weeks more. North-facing slopes take longer still, and in a cold, wet year, snow patches persist all year.
As you travel farther west in the Rockies, temperatures become slightly cooler and precipitation greater, especially along the Continental Divide and the Main Ranges. Lake Louise is wetter than Banff, which is wetter than Kananaskis Valley. Some of the most inclement weather occurs at the Columbia Icefield, between Lake Louise and Jasper. The mean yearly temperature is a brisk –2.1° Celsius, making Banff’s +2.5° balmy by comparison. Farther south, Denver, Colorado, tops in at a sizzling +10°! Tropical, you might say.
Not only are the Main Ranges cooler, but they also include the highest peaks. It is often mid-July or later before snow-free climbing can be done here. Ideal conditions may be as brief as a couple of weeks or, in a cool, wet year, may not occur at all. Conversely, an extended autumn after the first snowfall, generally referred to as Indian Summer, can stretch the scrambling season through September and into late October or even November. The occasional El Niño year may allow scrambling right into December. Autumn often rewards the enthusiastic peakbagger with crisp mornings, stable weather and an absence of crowds or annoying insects. Drawbacks are the noticeably shorter daylight, the return of snow on the high summits and verglas (ice) on rocks.
Mountain bikes
Mountain bikes are of limited use for most scrambles in this book. Bike use is severely restricted in national parks and is allowed only on fire roads such as Redearth Creek and the Temple Lodge access road at Lake Louise. Kananaskis has fewer restrictions, but not many scrambles there actually benefit from a mountain bike. The Elbow recreation area is an exception where approaches follow old roads.
Registration
Voluntary registration is available in national and provincial parks at warden and ranger offices and at information centres in Kananaskis Country. Registration gives park staff justification for purchasing rescue equipment and maintaining trained personnel, so it is a worthwhile step based on that alone. Remember, if you do register, you are legally required to sign in upon returning. If you fail to sign in, an unnecessary and costly search could be initiated, and YOU can be billed for the entire amount. Be aware that rescues are NEVER initiated until the following day, so you should always carry warm clothing and extra food and be prepared to survive a night out. It is worthwhile to inform others of your plans or, if you do not register, leave an itinerary somewhere in your vehicle. Eventually authorities will scour it for clues and will know where to pick up your body to keep the mountain pristine. At the time of writing, the cost of rescues is still borne by taxpayers, but with government cutbacks this may well change in future. Although the rescue budget in one park in a recent year amounted to much less than 0.5% of their total budget, outdoor adventurers in the mountains are perceived by government as generating little direct revenue and by some taxpayers as being a drain on finances. This misinformation makes us an easy target. Accordingly, future rescue budgets may be reduced, with the shortfall being covered through some form of surcharge. This might be a good idea in some cases. In Kananaskis in particular there are definite examples of negligence resulting in rescues that could have been avoided. Had the parties been billed for it, they might well use common sense and make better decisions in future.
Permits
All visitors stopping in a national park require a valid national park pass, available at park entrance gates and information centres. In addition, overnight stays in the national park backcountry campsites require a wilderness pass, which costs about $10 per night. Annual permits are also available. At the time of writing, there are no additional permits required for picnicking, sightseeing, photographing or shopping – yet.
Time, directions, grid references
In this book, suggested round-trip times cover a range and are based on both personal experience and that of acquaintances. This time assumes the participant is fit, able and doesn’t dawdle. People who hike, bike and jog regularly should fall into this category. Anyone who occasionally strolls the interpretive paths for exercise will be out of their league on these scrambles. A general guideline for a comfortable ascent pace is 300 m (1000 ft.) per hour, and fit parties will have few problems maintaining this pace.
Directions given are referenced relative to the direction of travel, and where any doubt might arise, a compass bearing is included too.
Maps listed are the 1:50,000 scale National Topographic System series. These are available at many information centres and outdoors stores. To pinpoint a precise location, six-digit references to grid coordinates are frequently mentioned in this book, and an explanation of this locating method may be found on the border of each NTS map. Some of these locations are from the map and are estimates only although quite a few now are derived from actual GPS readings (NAD 83) that I have done more recently. In most cases beaten paths and cairns exist and specific GPS locations are unnecessary. Google Earth, the poor man’s helicopter, provides a unique aerial overview of scramble peaks and approaches but unfortunately lacks enough detail to accurately assess actual technical difficulty. Maps shown in this book are intended only to show the positions of mountains relative to highways.
Gradings
First of all, ratings apply only when conditions are DRY. Simple descriptions of easy, moderate and difficult have been adopted, and where appropriate, additional information such as the exposure (potential fall distance) may be included. This grading system does not equate directly to existing systems of grading climbs. Easy and moderate scrambles are in the UIAA class I to class II range. Scrambles rated as difficult would normally be about YDS class 3 to 4, UIAA class III. In some instances there could be a move or two approaching class 5. For example, Mount Smuts may have a section of about 5.2 or 5.3, but routes do not generally involve any climbing near that level. A better explanation of these ratings might be:
Easy: mostly hiking, much hands in pockets stuff, little exposure, no maintained trail. Not surprisingly, easy scrambles are not really scrambling at all but are mostly off-trail hiking. Mount Bourgeau and the south peak of Mount Indefatigable are prime examples. UIAA class I; almost idiot-proof.
Moderate: frequent use of handholds required; possible exposure but not usually enough to be a “death fall.” Some routefinding involved, e.g., Big Sister, Cascade Mountain and Mount Kidd. Class II.
Difficult: much use of handholds required, sections may be steep, loose and exposed or rock could be smooth and downsloping. Fall distance may be significant enough to be fatal. Routefinding skills are generally necessary to determine the most practical and feasible way for specific sections. Less experienced parties might prefer the security of a climbing rope for short sections, and being off-route may well require technical climbing. Anyone with vertigo or a fear of heights should avoid scrambles rated as difficult. Sounds logical, but you’d be surprised. Examples are Mount Lady Macdonald, Mount Whyte and Mount Carnarvon. YDS class 3 or 4, rarely YDS class 5 or UIAA III.
The most technically demanding scrambles are described as climber’s scrambles or mountaineering scrambles if glacier travel is involved. Examples are mounts French and Robertson. Even on climber’s scrambles, the degree of difficulty should still be below mid-class 5. For what it’s worth, I did not ever scramble anything harder than that on any routes and I certainly don’t (can’t!) anymore. I was never that bold and was often alone. While some might consider using a rope on harder scrambles, unless you are also belaying and protecting the route as you go then you are probably safer without the rope on – especially the belayer. By definition, once you don the rope you are no longer scrambling.
As compared to other forms of rock such as quartzite, limestone is a high-friction medium. Nonetheless, when wet, snowy or icy, scramble routes become much harder. Many scrambles are then climbs and mountaineering ascents that require technical climbing gear and use of anchors and belay techniques. THESE SCRAMBLE RATINGS ARE APPLICABLE ONLY IN OPTIMAL CONDITIONS: DRY AND FREE OF SNOW. Some years, dry conditions may not even occur on some routes.
Unroped scrambling is one of the most potentially dangerous mountain activities, especially where exposure (fall distance) is significant. This fact is well supported by accident statistics. Slipping on snow, slipping on loose rock and handhold pullout are leading causes. Just because another party has made the ascent or descent safely does not mean it will be safe for you too. Consider that the other party might just be top-notch alpinists and are simply out having an easy day.
Be aware that climbing back down is more difficult than climbing up. If the ascent makes you uncomfortable, it is certain to be tougher on descent. Think of this before committing yourself: could you climb back down? If you are unsure, consider an alternative objective. An easier route on a different mountain may be much more enjoyable. Scrambling should not be thought of as a high-risk, “extreme,” wild and crazy adventure sport. It is not. It is a rewarding recreation that should be done as safely as possible.
Equipment
Wear the proper boots! The only really suitable footwear for scrambling is a pair of sturdy leather boots with a cleated Vibram sole and a half or three-quarter shank for rigidity. Running shoes and ultralight hiking boots are unsuitable, as they give too little ankle support and protection on talus slopes. Improper footwear is a contributing factor in many of the mountain accidents that require a rescue. I believe that anyone requiring a rescue due to improper footwear should either pay for the rescue or carry their own pair of crutches. Full-shank ice-climbing and mountaineering boots are overkill but will work.
Ski poles and trekking poles are particularly useful on many scrambles where much loose scree makes forward progress tedious. They also save wear and tear on the knees on descent and are invaluable for stream crossings and slippery logs. Three-section collapsible models are easily stowed in a pack and weigh little, but beware of them collapsing unexpectedly. I have found the type using a small lever to lock them in place to be more reliable than those with a rotational twist lock mechanism. As well, poles can make you look larger if threatened by wildlife.
Certain routes may warrant carrying an ice axe and perhaps crampons, depending on snow remaining. Many parties carry an ice axe as a matter of course. You must also know how to use this equipment: see the list of instructional schools for appropriate courses. Steeper routes where you must ascend rock bands are likely places to wear a helmet, especially if other parties are on the route ahead of you.
Other useful equipment available includes satellite phones that give the user telephone access even in remote locations and hand-held devices called SPOT transceivers. These small electronic devices can be configured to either update your progress to someone via satellite or to send a distress signal to proper authorities along with a GPS location. This will then initiate a rescue. Depending on where the rescue occurs, you may be charged for the entire cost. The tops of some scramble peaks do have cell phone access but don’t count on it. Satellite phones would be a sure thing. Better yet, stay safe – any fool can get into trouble, but it takes a smarter fool to stay out of trouble.
Clothing
Versatility is the key word in dressing for success in the mountains. Functional synthetics that can be layered to cover a wide variety of mountain weather and temperatures are what the fashionable scramblers are wearing this season. This wardrobe should include a raincoat (such as GoreTex), windpants, toque, wool gloves, cap, pile or fleece jacket, a wool or synthetic shirt and a synthetic undershirt. A pair of calf-height gaiters keeps debris out of boots. Although cotton shirts depicting loons and bears may be fine for Main Street Banff, they provide little warmth when wet and are downright miserable on a chilly mountain top.
Damp clothing can result in a drop in body core temperature, a condition known as hypothermia. Further deterioration can result in death. This condition includes cold hands and feet, fatigue, irritability, excessive shivering, dullness, inability to use the hands, lack of coordination, slurred speech, apathy and irrational actions. And all because of a loon shirt! But seriously, should any of these symptoms be present, get the victim into the warmest, driest clothing available. Have them eat and drink (not alcohol) and get them moving toward treeline and home. If they cannot continue, build a fire to warm them up. When you do get them back to safety, buy them a warmer shirt: hypothermia is easier to prevent than to treat.
Necessary extras
Good sunblock cream (SPF 15 or more), glacier glasses or good sunglasses that eliminate UV rays, lip sunscreen, compass, one-litre water bottle, a large handkerchief, and toilet paper identify the “old hand” versus the newcomer on the mountain. Consider carrying a small first aid kit, either homemade or commercially packed. No trip is complete without pictures, and what better excuse for a breather than to take a photo or two? Lastly, with the arrival of small cellular phones, more people are carrying these in the mountains. Personally, I find them intrusive. Phones are no substitute for brains or ability, yet incompetent parties who get in trouble are using them to call Parks rescue staff. This, if anything, is real justification for user-borne rescue costs. If you do take a phone, save that call for a real emergency.