scrambles_epub.html

M ount Warspite 2850 m

Difficulty: Difficult scrambling; exposure; possible steep snow slopes

Round-trip time: 6–10 hours

Height gain: 1150 m

Maps: 82 J/11 Kananaskis Lakes; Gem Trek Kananaskis Lakes & Region

Mount Warspite is occasionally ascended as the finale by climbers when traversing from either Mount Indefatigable or nearby Mount Invincible, with the described route being used for descent. As the route ascends a long, steep, north-facing slope, it will require step-kicking and perhaps crampons unless it is free of snow. In these conditions, which may well persist into late July or August, it is not simply a scramble but a mountaineering climb. Rock scramblers should then avoid it. Unlike nearby, more popular peaks with well-travelled trade routes, you will probably be alone on Mount Warspite. Parties should be competent in routefinding, scrambling up loose rock and using an ice axe. You’ll be amply rewarded with a fine view of the Smith-Dorrien Valley, Haig Glacier and Elk Pass. Although near a road, this trip imparts a feeling of isolation. Try from about late July on. Helmet and ice axe recommended.

Drive to Black Prince Cirque parking lot on Smith-Dorrien Trail–Spray Lakes Road, 11.7 km south of the Burstall parking lot.

From the parking lot, follow the wide interpretive trail to Warspite Lake. Upon reaching the lake, search around to find a good trail along the right (west) side of the lake. This unmaintained path leads through forest and up onto open avalanche slopes to the right of the Warspite Cascades. These falls tumble from the hanging valley below mounts Warspite and Black Prince. Unless you enjoy heavy bushwhacking, don’t circle around the left side of the lake. (I learned this after a mere two visits!)

Once you reach the hanging valley, hike past pretty little larch meadows and cross oodles of rock debris toward the brooding north end of Mount Warspite. Notice that below the peak, a traverse up steep slopes rising from left to right above the first cliff band leads to a high col (257157) at the northwest end of the objective. This col is the key to the ascent. Ideally, snow will have melted back and scramblers will be able to stick to rock or rubble. Those proficient at step-kicking and use of an ice axe will probably choose the snow. Note that failure to self-arrest a slip here would launch you over cliffs. Similarly, hugging close under the face exposes you to occasional rockfall (helmet). As you gain height, the tiny Black Prince tarns under Mount Black Prince appear. Finally the slope eases and the col gives you a chance to take a breather while contemplating the remaining 250 metres of elevation gain.

This west side of the mountain is comprised of steep walls and rocky towers above rubbly slopes and short rock bands. Head directly up the northwest corner of the peak from the ridge, climbing a steep step left of a chimney. There is significant exposure on your left for a couple of moves and the rock is loose. Caution is required. Continue up treadmill rubble and a couple of short rock steps as you approach two steep towers above. Near the base of these towers, traverse right, going below a high, narrow chimney to a wide, easy slope of scree and small slabs. Grunt up this, angling left near the top. A crumbly bit of ridge leads quickly to the shattered summit.

Mount Warspite is connected to Mount Invincible by a long ridge trending southeast that continues on to Indefatigable. The section from Warspite to Invincible is within the realm of any competent scrambler. From Invincible, with a bit of diligence, you can reach Gypsum Mine Road, which winds up the treed hillside northeast of that peak. With a bit of routefinding one can also descend east from this connecting ridge near either of the two bumps between Warspite and Invincible and drop down to the valley. Be prepared to wade Smith-Dorrien Creek. This adventurous extension makes for a long day that leaves you far from your vehicle. Most people will likely be content to return the same way via Black Prince Cirque.

Like nearby peaks’ namesakes, HMS Warspite was yet another ship involved in the Battle of Jutland in the First World War.

M ount Indefatigable 2670 m

Difficulty: A pleasant hike to the south peak; north summit and traverse involve moderate scrambling with brief exposure

Round-trip time: 4–5 hours for south peak; 5–7 hours for entire north to south traverse

Height gain: 1030 m north peak; 1100 m traverse

Maps: 82 J/11 Kananaskis Lakes; Gem Trek Kananaskis Lakes & Region

Mount Indefatigable overlooks beautiful Kananaskis Lakes and is well suited to a traverse in either direction. North to south is preferable and easier, although simply doing either summit is also worthwhile. The once busy approach trail is unmaintained, to discourage crowds and provide grizzlies a refuge, but it is not closed off. Try from June on and take bear spray.

South peak

From North Interlakes parking lot, walk along the gravel lakeshore trail and across the dam. The trail curves left and almost immediately you should branch to the right on the now unmaintained Mount Indefatigable trail, where several big boulders have been placed. After passing through shady forest, the wide, eroded path quickly gains the open escarpment along the east side of the mountain. At the first fork stay left. The right-hand trail dead-ends at a viewpoint, though a shortcut from there will bring you back up to the higher, correct trail. After about an hour from the parking lot the south peak trail will branch left at 306121, followed by another left soon after at 303121, marked by blue flagging in 2013. This popular trail climbs steadily up east-facing slopes through larch forest, giving brief glimpses of the peak, then reaches open hillside. The path now rises steeply, working to the left before talus and a brief bit of scrambling deliver you to the summit ridge. A repeater tower awaits your arrival.

One sunny autumn Sunday I encountered a young grizzly near treeline here. I should have been making noise but wasn’t, assuming others were likely ahead of me on such a fine day. None were, though, which suggests that the ascent is not always busy. Once you reach the top, a short walk along the shattered summit ridge usually provides more elbow room to enjoy the fabulous views.

North peak

To ascend the north peak, stay left at the first fork as for the south peak. After the trail curves left away from the escarpment into forest, watch carefully for an unsigned 4-way junction. The less-used trail to the right merely descends 30 paces to a viewpoint, while the path to the left leads to the south peak. For the north peak, continue straight ahead. In minutes, pass above a rushing spring just before you reach a beautiful tarn high on the east side of the mountain (303123). Past the tarn the trail trends to the right, heading for an unnamed but popular outlier. A less distinct trail branches left and wanders up open slopes, staying left of a drainage emanating from the low point of the east ridge. A well-worn path then coaxes you upward toward the higher north peak, the true summit.

As you ascend, keep just left of the ridge. When it becomes too steep, traverse left on well-used ledges into a broad gully. The final 50 m of this gully is better ascended by staying to the sides rather than in the middle. The left side is better for the last part, but much loose rock perches precariously all the way up here. Even with a helmet, you don’t want to be below another party, even if it is a goat, as I discovered.

The summit panorama is beautiful, but the head-on perspective of the connecting ridge looks a bit daunting. A good part of the traverse, however, is little more than careful hiking and it takes about 30 minutes to the south peak. Much of the rock is firm, and a beaten path skirts difficulties wherever possible. Use caution, though, as a fatality occurred here due to a fall over the steep east side. The crux is about halfway along, where you must scramble up a short, steep wall from the low point. It is not horrendously exposed, if you’re wondering, but it’s easier to ascend than descend. Once you’ve reached the south peak, walk south about 200 m past the tower to an obvious path descending the east side. This rejoins the Mount Indefatigable hiking trail.

M ount Putnik 2940 m

Difficulty: Difficult scrambling

Round-trip time: 10 hours (without bike)

Height gain: 1215 m

Maps: 82 J/11 Kananaskis Lakes; Gem Trek Kananaskis Lakes

Mount Putnik is clearly visible from the Upper Kananaskis Lake day use/boat launch area. Although the Three Isle Lake trail passes right beside it, the peak hasn’t been ascended much in the past. The route will be suitable for parties with a bit of routefinding experience, as there is no obvious trail here and most cairns get swept away by yearly avalanches. The Forks campground would be a good base to comfortably ascend both Mount Putnik and nearby Mount Lyautey in a two-day weekend (camping permit required). Try from July on.

Drive to North Interlakes parking lot at Upper Kananaskis Lake in Peter Lougheed Provincial Park. From the trailhead the long, sloping left skyline ridge of Mount Putnik is visible to the west. Mount Lyautey is to the left of Putnik.

Hike the trail northwest across the dam, then along the lake and through pleasant forest to the Forks campground, 8 km and 2+ hours. Biking is allowed for the first 4 km section of rough old fire road and saves time.

From the campground, follow Three Isle Lake trail for about 25 minutes. Your day’s success depends on identifying the correct avalanche slope that descends to trailside on your right. Much rock debris came down here in June 2013; go past the first avalanche slope. The second one, only moments later, comes right down to trail’s edge. Looking uphill from the proper one gives a clear view of steep, vertically tilted ribs of bare limestone perhaps 150 m above the trail. This is where you head upward. Note that the peak can also be reached from the Three Isle Lake campground, but the route described here is more direct.

The left and middle of the slope are fairly open, posing no problem to ascend. Before reaching steep rock ribs, traverse horizontally left towards larger timber. Work your way around, going below a water-worn gully, and soon after, the terrain mellows into steep grassy slopes, small trees and bits of exposed rock. Scramble up here onto scree slopes that are less steep. A cairn marking this spot for return would be helpful. Now angle across to the right and head upward, ascending small, shattered ledges and rubble. If you go far enough right you reach a deep gully (8–10 m deep or so that feeds avalanche slopes below. Scramble up beside this; the summit lies more or less straight above. Eventually the angle eases, the scrambling ceases and you merely trudge up rubble to a small flat area. A final broad slope of good scree followed by a short walk along a fractured ridge leads to the highest point. Beware of lingering cornices on the right (northeast) side – the drop below is huge.

Views from the top include peaks in the distant Purcell Range in BC and closer summits like Assiniboine, Sir Douglas, King George and Joffre as well as lakes such as Lawson, Aster, Hidden, Kananaskis and Three Isle. All told, it is a fabulous view on a fine day.

The descent is the same, although there is much room for variation. We went partly down a narrower gully to the right of the deep one we followed upward, but you can simply choose whatever terrain is least steep. Remember to traverse to your right (west) due to cliffs near treeline. When you’re down the steep, vegetated bits and into forest, a traverse left will lead back to the open avalanche slope you ascended. If you simply attempt a direct line down through forest to the hiking trail you’ll be bushwhacking.

Mount Putnik is named for Serbian field marshal Radomir Putnik, according to Peakfinder.com.

M ount Lyautey 3082 m

Difficulty: Moderate to difficult scrambling; possible steep snow; a mountaineering scramble

Round-trip time: 10–12 hours

Height gain: 1350 m

Maps: 82 J/11 Kananaskis Lakes; Gem Trek Kananaskis Lakes

Mount Lyautey forms a wide backdrop on the west side of beautiful Upper Kananaskis Lake. On the unseen northeast aspect are two small remnant glaciers, and this side also offers a non-technical way up. The described route avoids glacier, but if you choose to ascend or descend steep snow gullies below the summit you must cross 300 m of “tame” glacier and a bergschrund. Despite close proximity to popular hiking trails the peak sees few visitors. This ascent is a comfortable day trip and shares a common approach with Mount Putnik. Using the Forks campground as a base, you could comfortably ascend both peaks in a two-day weekend and save some walking (camping permit required). Try from about July on and take your ice axe and helmet.

Drive to the North Interlakes parking lot at Upper Kananaskis Lake in Peter Lougheed Provincial Park. Mount Lyautey is the grand summit directly southwest across the lake.

Hike the trail northwest, across the dam, then along the lake and through pleasant forest toward the Forks campground: 8 km and 2+ hours. Biking is allowed for the first 4 km of rough old fire road and saves time. Shortly before the campground a beautiful clear stream comes in from the left, a logical place to rehydrate for the upcoming elevation gain. Mere minutes past here, head left and follow a wide gravel outwash and a stream from Lyautey Glacier. Stay on the left-hand side of the stream until fairly close to the waterfall at the end of the valley, then wade or hop across to gain rubble slopes to the right of the headwall. You must end up above this headwall. Easier scrambling up the vertical rock ribs and gullies of this headwall lies farther to the right.

Once you’re above the headwall, depending on where you went up, angle left over easy slopes and gain the moraine which sits high above the trench left by receding glacier. Mount Lyautey lies south-southeast, and in early summer, steep, snow-filled gullies rise from glacier to summit. From this aspect it looks like there are two equally high summits, but actually the right-hand one is higher. The ascent route crosses bedrock below the lower glacier, then gains rubble and the curving arm of rock that separates two glaciers. This rock becomes a ridge which rises and meets the mountain face. The terrain becomes more interesting (though loose!) as you gain elevation. Bypass bumps along the ridge by detouring to the right as needed. Near the top we scrambled leftward over rock ribs and into the top of a wide gully some 30 m below the summit. From the top of the gully, a peek over the back side revealed easy scree to the top.

On the return you may have a choice, depending on conditions and your ability to descend steep snow. In mid-July, with ice axes, we were able to plunge step down a wide snow gully, glissade over the well-bridged bergschrund and continue the glissade down onto the glacier. Later in summer, or if the snow has frozen overnight, crampons would be needed for this steep gully. Simply retracing your route would then be easier.

General Louis Hubert Gonzalve Lyautey was minister of war for France in the final years of the First World War, according to Boles, Laurilla and Putnam’s Canadian Mountain Place Names (2006).

M ount Northover 3003 m

Difficulty: Difficult scrambling with severe exposure; a climber’s scramble

Round-trip time: 5–7 hours from Aster Lake outlet

Height gain: 700 m from Aster Lake

Maps: 82 J/11 Kananaskis Lakes; Gem Trek Kananaskis Lakes & Region

Mount Northover is probably the most challenging scramble near Aster Lake. It is similar in character to the airy south ridge of Mount Smuts and about as demanding. While many parties would appreciate the security of a rope and some protection, those who have solid rock-scrambling or climbing skills and are comfortable with exposure will find this an exciting route when it is dry. It is possible to traverse the mountain, too, but an ice axe may be needed for snow patches. Apart from falling off, there is no quick way down from this south ridge. Don’t confuse this serious scramble with the popular Aster Lake to Three Isle Lake hiking route: it too is called Northover Ridge, but it travels below the peak along the southwest side.

From the outlet of Aster Lake, hike around to the gravel flats and braided outwash streams at the opposite side of the lake. This is near the south (left) end of Mount Northover. The ascent ridge is clearly visible as you approach, and it looks daunting. Clamber easily to the ridge and away you go.

Initially the undertaking is simply good fun until you reach a steeply tilted slab, the first significant challenge. You can detour along the left side on small ledges and cracks rather than ascend it directly, but it is still exposed. The route then eases again, but the most intimidating part is yet to come.

A small rise right before the summit is a logical spot to stop and study the crux. At this point, a fabulous view of glaciated Mount Joffre behind you is a temporary escape from reality. A steep, slabby wall guards the summit, and the only possibilities appear to be a few high-angle cracks. The steep, obvious crack directly beneath the top appears overhanging and is NOT the best choice. I started up a narrower crack to the left, then moved left again, aiming for the lowest-angled, least slabby area. The hardest bit is maybe 6–8 m high, but the rock is solid. Various reports have suggested this involves 5.5–5.6 technical climbing. I don’t recall that my exact route was that technical, but some have gladly used rock shoes on this bit. Note well, though, that a slip would result in a deadly plummet completely off the ridge. Conditions must be dry; use care. Descending this section would likely require a rope.

Assuming you’ve made it, breathe deeply, relax and enjoy a rest on top before checking out the north ridge descent. In late summer there should be little if any snow on it. While much shorter, this is still steep and notably looser than the south ridge. If snowy, it could require a rappel. Climb down carefully, and when feasible, angle left (west) across short slabs to scree slopes. The rounded scree ridge west is the Northover Ridge hiking trail that connects Three Isle and Aster lakes. Turn left and go home – well, back to camp anyway.

People have died on this mountain. It is a serious scramble with no room for mistakes, as you are a long way from help. Unless conditions are ideal (bare and dry with good weather), consider a less committing ascent in the area.

Lieutenant A.W. Northover was a member of the Canadian Expeditionary Force in the First World War.

W arrior Mountain 2973 m

Difficulty: A mountaineering scramble requiring a short glacier crossing but otherwise easy

Round-trip time: 5+ hours from Aster Lake outlet

Height gain: 630 m

Maps: 82 J/11 Kananaskis Lakes; Gem Trek Kananaskis Lakes

Warrior Mountain has a highway-width scree slope to its summit, and the ridge over to Mount Cordonnier is only slightly more difficult. There is just one obstacle: a very small section of remnant glacier lies along the east side of the two peaks. This puts the route into the realm of a mountaineering scramble. For those familiar with straightforward glacier travel, this brief section will be no obstacle at all.

(Warrior can also be reached from Mount Cordonnier, which in turn can be reached over knee-jarring rubble instead of glacier.)

If you are properly equipped with ice axe, rope and perhaps crampons, cross the short bit of glacier at the base of Warrior, heading straight toward the low point of the Warrior–Cordonnier ridge, close to Warrior’s summit. Old moraines and rubble lead to this remnant glacier – more like a snowfield now – and it takes 30 minutes to cross. Late-summer parties report having seen one small crevasse on this glacier. It might be wide enough that you could fall into it if it were snow-covered. If you are not roped up, be sure to probe ahead very carefully with an ice axe as you go. Step only where you have probed until safely across.

Once you’re back onto the rock, hike to the top in less than an hour. In contrast to the tamer east aspect, the west side of the mountain drops abruptly to Joffre Creek 1500 m below. Also far below is BC’s Height of the Rockies Provincial Park. Small tarns at timberline nestle against flanks of Shatch Mountain immediately south, while to the northeast you can see clear across Kananaskis Lakes to the serrated Opal Range. Not surprisingly it is Mount King George and his Royal companions that are the most humbling. Waka Nambe, the impressive rock spire rising skyward just west, takes on an entirely different shape here compared to the overhanging tower seen from Aster Lake.

M ount Cordonnier 3021 m

Difficulty: Easy scramble, brief exposure

Ascent time: 1.5 hours from Warrior Mountain summit

Height gain: 250 m from Warrior Ridge; 700 m from Aster Lake

Maps: 82 J/11 Kananaskis Lakes; Gem Trek Kananaskis Lakes

To continue to Mount Cordonnier from Warrior Mountain you simply follow the connecting ridge. The undertaking is a little more serious than the simple trudge up Warrior Mountain, though. At one spot the ridge narrows where it crosses the top of a 20-m-high slab that angles down to rapidly disappearing Mangin Glacier. Farther on, past a chockstone, there is again slight exposure to deal with but no real difficulty. Anyone who has done a number of moderate or difficult scrambles will not even blink at these interruptions. In fact, one party followed tracks of a grizzly and cub in the snow along this route. The only other surprise is that the summit is a bit farther away than expected, but the view is definitely worth it.

The entire route up Mangin Glacier to Mount Joffre is readily studied from this vantage point. Below to the south are larch meadows spread about Sylvan Pass, a seldom visited hiking area which is reached from the BC side. For the return, note that it is possible to descend (or ascend) Cordonnier without crossing any glacier whatsoever, via a steep north-facing slope at 255015 where the summit ridge begins to rise and curve right. This route would be preferable when some snow remains in order to alleviate the great masses of knee-jarring rubble and boulders. All this debris was carelessly left behind by Mangin Glacier when it left for parts unknown.

Most peaks in Kananaskis commemorate military leaders or ships from the First World War, as does this one: Émilien Victor Cordonnier was a French general.

M ount Sarrail 3174 m

Difficulty: Moderate scrambling for one section; mild exposure

Round-trip time: A long day from Upper Kananaskis Lake parking lot; 5–7 hours from Aster Lake

Height gain: 1700 m

Maps: 82 J/11 Kananaskis Lakes; Gem Trek Kananaskis Lakes

Mount Sarrail’s northeast escarpment is the most commonly seen aspect, glowering far above Upper Kananaskis Lake. This face has been climbed but presents a forbidding proposition. By comparison, the west ridge has a gentler nature and presents just enough challenge to keep it a bit interesting. The peak is accessed by unmaintained Aster Lake trail. Although often done in a long day, many parties camp at Aster Lake ascend other fine nearby peaks while there.

The simplest way to gain the west ridge is to follow the trail that has developed which branches left at 277055 near a rock rib. (See Aster Lake trail description, p. 199.) You can also head up anywhere near the seasonal pond a little farther along, although the scree up to the ridge from there is tediously loose.

The ridge angle is moderate and has an obvious trail in the scree. To the west, Mount King George rules over lesser peaks in the Royal group. The ridge has a brief bit of downclimbing, while near the top are short stretches of slab. As of 2013 the glacier still abuts the ridge in a couple of places, but just barely.

As you reach the summit, stay well back from the cornice that often overhangs the vertical northeast face. If you squint carefully, the smokestack-shaped mountain way off to the west-southwest is Farnham Tower in the Purcell Range of BC. Nearby is adjacent Mount Foch, apparently first ascended by Swiss guide Walter Feuz with client Katie Gardiner after descending to the col. How the duo accomplished this some 60 years ago is not clear, as massive downsloping slabs overlain with ball-bearing rubble must be negotiated. More than a few hopeful parties since have considered it unfeasible.

Canadian Mountain Place Names, by Boles, Laurilla and Putnam, explains that General Sarrail was a commander at Verdun. He later held a more peaceful position as high commissioner to Syria.

M ount Foch 3180 m

Difficulty: Difficult scrambling, loose rock, exposure

Round-trip time: An extremely long day from Upper Kananaskis Lake parking lot; 7–10 hours from Aster Lake

Height gain: 1710 m

Maps: 82 J/11 Kananaskis Lakes; Gem Trek Kananaskis Lakes

Mount Foch (pronounced fawsh) and Mount Sarrail form the impressive vertical backdrop directly above Upper Kananaskis Lake. While neighbouring Mount Sarrail sees regular visits, far fewer have stood on the summit of Mount Foch. The route ascends the back side, starting near Aster Lake, and traverses a long ridge past an unnamed 3125 m peak en route to the summit. Travelling as far as the unnamed peak is easy but continuing to Mount Foch involves scrambling along a loose, narrow and exposed ridge. A one-day ascent from the parking lot can exceed 16 hours, so camping at Aster Lake is a more logical plan. Try this ascent from about mid-July on.

Leave the meadows just before (north of) Aster Lake and head left to follow the valley south-southeast past Marlborough Pond towards the col next to glaciated Mount Marlborough. The idea is to gain the easy ridge on the skyline to the left. This leads northeast to an unnamed 3125 m peak at 292032, then continues to Mount Foch. The simplest spot to gain the ridge is via rubble near the col at the far end of the valley, though you may not have to go quite that far. Once you’re on the ridge, views are truly entertaining and help keep your mind off the notable distance lying between you and Mount Foch. Real scrambling starts once you pass the unnamed 3125 m point as the ridge narrows and undulates, requiring frequent loss and regain of elevation. Allow about 3 hours from the unnamed point to Mount Foch and back. A rubbly slab leads to the summit. Return the same way.

If doing this as a day trip you probably won’t dally too long, despite exceptional views that include Mount Pétain and Pétain Glacier to the south. Otherwise, savour the spectacular scene that surrounds you, from Kananaskis Lakes to Mount King George and the gut-wrenching drop down the front.

Marshal Ferdinand Foch was supreme allied commander in France at the close of the First World War and is considered the leader most responsible for the victory.

Th e Turret 2573 m

Difficulty: Moderate scrambling; bushwhack approach

Round-trip time: 6–8 hours from Upper Kananaskis Lake parking lot

Height gain: 835 m

Maps: 82 J/11 Kananaskis Lakes; Gem Trek Kananaskis Lakes

The Turret is a small peak above Upper Kananaskis Lake at GR326053 rising in front of higher mounts Foch and Sarrail. The summit provides fine views over the Kananaskis Lakes and you will probably have it all to yourself. No real approach trail exists and this objective won’t be high on most scramblers’ lists. Though parties have approached via the Elk Pass Blueberry Lookout trail and then bushwhacked to the base, the shortest route is a direct line bushwhacking uphill from Upper Kananaskis Lake. Above treeline only minimal scrambling is required as you ascend southeast-facing slopes. Try from July on.

Drive to the Upper Kananaskis Lake parking lot in Peter Lougheed Provincial Park. The lakeshore trail begins at the south end, behind the outhouse. The Turret protrudes directly south of you.

The objective is to bushwhack from the lakeshore trail directly uphill to a flat, treed bench some 300 m higher, between lake and peak. Just past the parking lot the lakeshore trail crosses a tiny water trickle with a bit of animal trail on its left. Bushwhack in the general direction of up, keeping this stream on your right. It disappears, re-emerges among mounds of bright-green moss, then disappears for good higher up. We followed a shallow gully replete with a bit of trail for much of the way when we descended this. The worst of the bushwhacking and deadfall is in the first couple hundred vertical metres, which, by annoying coincidence, is also the steepest. Once the terrain flattens, however, travel is much easier. We passed through a small, open meadow corridor at 331066. From there you want to end up on an open slope on the east side of the peak at about 330056. A fairly decent animal trail traverses between the lowest rock band and treeline at about 2200 m. Traverse southwest (left) until you are directly under the summit block, about where the lowest rockband peters out and trees begin. Only a couple of minor rocky bits exist above here. As you near the ridge, angle slightly left, where rubble and small rock steps lead quickly to the top.

The other approach option is via the Elk Pass trail and the Blueberry Hill lookout. Somewhere before the end of the trail at about 338062 you head west through bush toward the same 330056 point mentioned earlier. This round-trip distance is nearly twice as far as the bushwhack route from Upper Kananaskis Lake, so suit yourself. Elk Pass and Upper Kananaskis Lake parking lots are 1.5 km apart if you decide to combine the two.

M ount Fox 2973 m

Difficulty: Difficult, committing, exposed scramble

Round-trip time: 7–12 hours

Height gain: 1240 m

Maps: 82 J/11 Kananaskis Lakes; Gem Trek Kananaskis Lakes

Mount Fox grants a fabulous view of the Kananaskis Lakes and Elk Pass and will appeal to competent scramblers. Almost half the elevation gain requires hands-on rock scrambling and there is no quick way off. Although not as technically difficult as Mount Smuts, loose rock and the overall length make this route at least as serious. With good weather it is suitable for experienced, capable parties. Try from July on if the east ridge is snow-free. This ridge is visible from the highway by King Creek, appearing as an uninterrupted line angled at 40° from Elk Pass to the summit. An ice axe is useful.

Drive to the Elk Pass trailhead on Kananaskis Trail in Peter Lougheed Provincial Park.

If the trail is in good repair you can bike most of the 5.8 km to West Elk Pass. From the parking lot the trail goes up over a ridge under the powerline, then descends to Fox Creek. Ignore the side trail branching left on the way. Turn right at the junction after the bridge over Fox Creek and follow the trail alongside the creek as it continues south. The trail reaches an open boggy area (1 hour from car) and then continues straight ahead, rising over a slight hill. Five minutes farther, pass a picnic table and ignore the ski trail branching right. Continue ahead, south, on the footpath, which in minutes heads gently to the right into forest and soon reaches the information sign at the Elk Lakes Provincial Park entrance. Beware of porcupines at Elk Pass, which may chew bike panniers, tires etc.

From the information board, start out on the path “Upper Elk Lake via Fox Lake,” then diverge right and continue on Frozen Lake trail, crossing boggy meadows and following the provincial boundary cutline directly toward Mount Fox. You’ll pass concrete marker 2M delineating the BC–Alberta boundary, after which the trail rises steeply to reach Frozen Lake. Allow at least 2 hours on foot from car to lake.

Frozen Lake is a pristine and lovely pond, especially if it has thawed. You’ll probably appreciate a breather once you reach its peaceful shoreline. To ascend Mount Fox, hike north along the shore and up the steep open hillside to gain the east ridge. Stands of alpine larch quickly give way to checked and shattered grey limestone, terrain not unfamiliar to those who have ascended other Kananaskis peaks.

The angle is surprisingly constant, but you can sometimes avoid occasional steeper sections of the ridge by climbing left or right, which momentarily places you in either Alberta or British Columbia depending on where exactly your feet are. While the route is not especially narrow, a slip would still be deadly and care is required throughout. You should watch the weather as you ascend, and turn back if it deteriorates. This exposed ridge does not provide a quick retreat in bad conditions and no other option exists.

The crux awaits near the top. Cruxes are almost never at the beginning. Upon reaching a couple of pinnacles you must climb through a chimney in the larger one. It looks worse than it is, but the rock is extremely loose in places. Once past here, just plod up scree to the top.

The summit is spacious and affords a magnificent view in all directions. Kananaskis Lakes, Mount Sir Douglas and Haig Glacier look particularly fine. Notice that the west slope is scree to the basin near timberline. Although you could descend this side to reach Upper Elk Lake, it is hard to imagine circumstances dire enough to justify it. For a view of Lower Elk Lake you can scramble over to the subpeak to the south in 20 minutes. It is not just a walk, though. One brief, exposed place rivals any part of the ascent route.

Return the same way. Although it is not much harder to descend the ridge, it is time-consuming, and wet rock would make it downright unpleasant.

Kananaskis Lakes Area

South peak

North peak