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Tsim Sha Tsui | Yau Ma Tei, Mong Kok, and Northern Kowloon | New Territories
Kowloon is home to the famous Nathan Road, the postcard image of a busy Hong Kong street, where bright neon lights adorn every building. It’s also the main artery through a throbbing cluster of markets and shopping streets, where it’s all about bargains and knockoffs. Locals usually don’t shop on Nathan Road. Kowloon is also the place for outdoor markets, drawing locals and in-the-know visitors who are willing to bargain for their bargains. In addition to good sales at outdoor vending areas such as the Temple Street Night Market and the Ladies’ Market, cultural shopping experiences abound in places such as the Bird Garden or the Jade Market.
TIP Visiting all the outdoor markets in Kowloon in one day may be exhausting. You’re better off picking three sites you want to spend some time in rather than rushing through them all.
Tsim Sha Tsui
Lighted up in neon and jam-packed with shops, garish Nathan Road is Tsim Sha Tsui’s main drag, usually crammed with tourists and sketchy salespeople alike. “What a drag” is the phrase that often comes to mind when shopping here: sky-high prices and shop assistants bent on ripping you off leave you wishing you’d gone elsewhere. Slip down the side streets, though, and things get better. Granville and Cameron roads are home to cheap clothing outlets, while Japanese imports and young designers fill the boutiques at the funky minimall called Rise. Chinese emporiums Yue Hwa and Chinese Arts & Crafts have big branches here—both are great places to stock up on cheap souvenirs.
Although Tsim Sha Tsui is known for its low-end shopping, that doesn’t mean luxury goods are out of the picture. The Peninsula Arcade, Joyce, the vast Harbour City shopping center, and the impressive, colonial-style 1881 Heritage arcade all have a big-name count fit to rival Central’s. One contrast is found in the shoppers, who tend to be a bit lower key. Bespoke tailoring is another Tsim Sha Tsui specialty—quality varies enormously, so try to choose somewhere well established, like Sam’s.
Beauty and Cosmetics
FACES.
This sprawling one-stop shop, just a stone’s throw from the Kowloon Star Ferry terminal, carries a long list of high-profile and niche beauty brands. | Ocean Terminal, Harbour City, 5 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui | 2118–5622 | Station: Tsim Sha Tsui.
Clothing
Dorfit.
A longtime cashmere manufacturer and retailer, Dorfit caters to a variety of men’s, women’s, and children’s tastes. Knitwear here comes in pure cashmere as well as blends, so be sure to ask which is which. | 6th fl., Mary Bldg., 71–77 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui | 2312–1013 | www.dorfit.com.hk | Station: Tsim Sha Tsui | 1st fl., 10 Wellington St., Central | 2501–0018 | Station: Central.
Initial.
This team of local designers creates simple but whimsical men’s and women’s clothing with a trendy urban edge. The bags and accessories strike a soft vintage tone, fitting the store’s fashionably worn interiors, casually strewn secondhand furniture, and sultry jazz soundtrack. | The Park Lane Hong Kong, 31 Gloucester Rd., Causeway Bay | 2882–9044 | www.initialfashion.com | Station: Causeway Bay | 3rd fl., Ocean Terminal, Harbour City LCX, 2–27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui | Station: Tsim Tsa Shui.
Moussy.
This midrange Japanese brand arrived in town in 2006. The tight-fitting tees and vintage-wash jeans are a big hit among young local women who are going for the rock-star look. | 3rd fl., Ocean Terminal, 5 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui | 3102–3668 | www.moussy.ne.jp | Station: Tsim Sha Tsui.
Fodor’s Choice | Pearls & Cashmere.
Warehouse prices in chic shopping arcades? It’s true. This old Hong Kong favorite is elegantly housed in hotels on both sides of the harbor. In addition to quality men’s and women’s cashmere sweaters in classic designs and in every color under the sun, they also sell reasonably priced pashminas, gloves, and socks, which make great gifts for men and women. In recent years the brand has developed the more fashion-focused line, BYPAC. | Mezzanine, Peninsula Hotel Shopping Arcade, Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui | 2723–8698 | Station: Tsim Sha Tsui | Mezzanine, Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Rd., Central | 2525–6771 | Station: Central.
Boutique Alert: Jeans
A crop of fun boutiques, many with several locations, capitalizes on the world’s fascination with high-end denim and contemporary clothing. Bauhaus (www.bauhaus.com.hk) sheds light on local youth fashion with an especially strong selection of jeans from around the world. Indigo (www.indigohongkong.com) was one of the first shops to introduce a denim bar, with “Jeanuine Experts” to help you find the best fit. They have a good range of sizes, too. Hong Kong’s younger generations create their looks with contemporary-casual and denim pieces from the immensely popular I.T (www.ithk.com) shops, which include I.T, i.t, izzue, b+ab, and double-park.
Crafts and Curios
Tittot.
This Taiwanese brand has taken modern Chinese glass art global. Glass works here are made using the laborious lost-wax casting technique, used by artists for centuries to create a bronze replica of an original wax or clay sculpture. The collection includes tableware, paperweights and decorative pieces, glass Buddhas, and jewelry, and can be purchased in Lane Crawford department stores. | Lane Crawford, 1 Matheson St., Times Square, Causeway Bay | 2118-3638 | www.tittot.com | Station: Causeway Bay.
Electronics, Music, and Accessories
Delon Photo & Hi-Fi Centre.
Longtime residents ask for popular salesman Elmen Sit when they come to Delon. He’ll take you through the range carried here. Sit also demystifies various bits of equipment for novices—he’ll even tell you what you don’t need. Prices are good, but not amazingly cheap. | Ocean Centre, Harbour City, 5 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui | 2730–0214 | Station: Tsim Sha Tsui.
HMV.
This U.K.-based chain has a wide selection of local and international music covering everything from rap to classical and Canto-pop to Japanese music. A huge selection of DVDs and Blu-ray discs are here as well, ranging from U.S. and international movies and television shows to local movies. International magazines are sold here at the best prices in town, but they still cost a lot more than in their countries of origin. For more locations, check the website. | Shop UG06, iSquare, 63 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui | 2302–0122 | www.hmv.com.hk | Station: Tsim Sha Tsui | 3rd and 4th fl., Entertainment Bldg., 30 Queen’s Rd. Central, Central | 2739–0268 | Station: Central.
Hong Kong Records.
You’ll find a good selection of current local and international CDs and DVDs at this age-old company. A lower profile also means prices are sometimes lower than in flashier retailers. | Gateway Arcade, Harbour City, 3 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui | 2175–5700 | www.hongkongrecords.hk | Station: Tsim Sha Tsui.
Star Computer City.
Right next to the Star Ferry and the Harbour City megamall complex, Star Computer City has one whole floor dedicated to computers and is small and manageable for those with weary feet. Look carefully, and you’ll find bargains. | 2nd fl., Star House, Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui | 2730–4382 | star-computer-city.com | Station: Tsim Sha Tsui.
Jewelry
Artland Watch Co Ltd.
Artland Watch Co Ltd. Elegant but uncomplicated, the interior of this established watch retailer is like its service. The informed staff will guide you through the countless luxury brands on show and in the catalogs from which you can also order. Prices here aren’t the best in Hong Kong, but they’re still lower than at home. | Ground fl., Mirador Mansion, 54-64B Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui | 2366–1074 | Station: Tsim Sha Tsui.
Prince Jewellery and Watch Company.
This shop carries timepieces made by more than 50 international brands such as Omega, Chopard, and Breguet, IWC, in addition to other jewelry, which may entertain those accompanying the avid watch-shopper. | Ground fl., Bo Yip Bldg, 10 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui | 2369–2123 | www.princejewellerywatch.com | Station: Tsim Sha Tsui.
TSL Jewellery.
One of the big Hong Kong chains, TSL (Tse Sui Luen) specializes in diamond jewelry, and manufactures, retails, and exports its designs. Its range of 100-facet stones includes the Estrella cut, which reflects nine symmetrical hearts and comes with international certification. Although its contemporary designs use platinum settings, TSL also sells pure, bright, yellow-gold items targeted at Chinese customers. | G5–G7, Park Lane Blvd., Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui | 2332–4618 | www.tsljewellery.com | Station: Tsim Sha Tsui | Ground fl., 1 Yee Woo St., Causeway Bay | Station: Causeway Bay.
Malls
Elements.
This upscale shopping mall is in the Kowloon West residential and commercial district, and just above Kowloon’s Airport Express train and check-in station. The mall is beautifully designed, and is divided into five different zones based on the elements: metal, wood, water, earth, and fire. This is one-stop shopping as far as international luxury brands are concerned, with Valentino, Mulberry, Prada, and Gucci, just to name a few. | 1 Austin Rd. W, Tsim Sha Tsui | 2735–5234 | www.elementshk.com | Station: Kowloon.
Fodor’s Choice | Harbour City.
The four interconnected complexes that make up Harbour City contain almost 500 shops between them—if you can’t find it here, it probably doesn’t exist. Pick up a map on your way in, as it’s easy to get lost. Ocean Terminal, the largest section, runs along the harbor and is divided thematically, with kids’ wear and toys on the ground floor, and sports and cosmetics on the first. The top floor is home to white-hot street-wear store LCX. Near the Star Ferry pier, the Marco Polo Hong Kong Hotel Arcade has branches of the department store Lane Crawford. Louis Vuitton, Prada, and Burberry are some of the posher boutiques that fill the Ocean Centre and Gateway Arcade, parallel to Canton Road. Most of the complex’s restaurants are here, too. A cinema and three hotels round up Harbour City’s offerings. Free Wi-Fi is available. | 3–27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui | www.harbourcity.com.hk | Station: Tsim Sha Tsui.
Mira Mall.
Not to be confused with neighboring Miramar Shopping Centre, the Mira Mall opened in 2012 as an extension of the Mira Hotel. This new addition to the Tsim Sha Tsui shopping scene aims at Hong Kong’s young elite with the likes of a two-story Twist, Tommy Hilfiger, and Coach. Asian talent is a focal point at the four-story galleria, with designers such as Ika Butoni and her colorful Indonesian creations. Noteworthy international brands include NorieM, Laura Ashley, Cocomojo, and Sebago, and don’t miss the 22,000-square-foot Collect Point flagship store in the basement. | 118 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui | 2315–5868 | www.mira-mall.com | Station: Tsim Sha Tsui.
Rise Commercial Building.
Many a quirky Hong Kong street-wear trend is born in this fabulous micromall. Don’t let its grubby exterior put you off: this arcade is a haven of Asian cool. Japanese designers are particularly well represented—look out for überhip brand A Bathing Ape, which does some of the funkiest T-shirts around. Handmade shoes and oversized retro jewelry are other fixtures—and all at bargain prices. | 5–11 Granville Circuit, off Granville Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui | Station: Tsim Sha Tsui.
Markets
Arts & Crafts Fair.
Small stalls from local cottage industries sell handicrafts each Sunday and on public holidays outside the Cultural Centre on the Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront. Portrait artists are at hand to capture your likeness, and there’s other artwork, jewelry, and knickknacks. Each stall holder is chosen by a panel of judges who look to promote Hong Kong artists and small businesses. | Hong Kong Cultural Centre Piazza, 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui | 2734–2843 | Closed Mon.–Sat. | Station: Tsim Sha Tsui, Exit E.
Spas
The Peninsula Spa.
Here’s another excuse to visit Hong Kong’s grande-dame hotel—as if you needed one. Even the aromatic hand soaps in the bathrooms soothe the senses at this lavish East-meets-West sanctuary, which has separate facilities for men and women. You’ll enjoy Oriental, Ayurvedic, and other therapies in rooms overlooking the harbor; the view from the sauna must rank among the best in the world. Consider booking a Peninsula Ceremony, a series of holistic treatments chosen for you by a skilled therapist. | 7th fl., The Peninsula, Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui | 2696–6682 | www.peninsula.com | Station: Tsim Sha Tsui.
Tailor-Made Clothing
Men’s Tailors
David’s Shirts Ltd.
Customers have been enjoying the personalized service of David Chu since 1961. All the work is done in-house by Shanghainese tailors with at least 20 years’ experience each. There are more than 6,000 imported European fabrics to choose from, each prewashed. Examples of shirts, suits, and accessories—including 30 collar styles, 12 cuff styles, and 10 pocket styles—help you choose. Single-needle tailoring; French seams; 22 stitches per inch; handpicked, double-stitched shell buttons; German interlining—it’s all here. Your details, down to on which side you wear your wristwatch, are kept on file should you wish to use its mail-order service in the future. | Ground fl., Wing Lee Bldg., 33 Kimberley Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui | 2367–9556 | www.davidsshirts.com | Station: Tsim Sha Tsui | Mezzanine, Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Rd., Central | 2524–2979 | Station: Central.
Maxwell’s Clothiers Ltd.
After you’ve found a handful of reputable, high-quality tailors, one way to choose between them is price. Maxwell’s is known for its competitive rates. It’s also a wonderful place to have favorite shirts and suits copied and for straightforward, structured women’s shirts and suits. It was founded by third-generation tailor Ken Maxwell in 1961 and follows Shanghai tailoring traditions, while also providing the fabled 24-hour suit upon request. The showroom and workshop are in Kowloon, but son Andy and his team take appointments in the United States, Canada, Australia, and Europe twice annually. The motto of this family business is, “Simply let the garment do the talking.” | 7th fl., Han Hing Mansion, 38–40 Hankow Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui | 2366–6705 | www.maxwellsclothiers.com | Station: Tsim Sha Tsui.
Fodor’s Choice | Sam’s Tailor.
Unlike many famous Hong Kong tailors, you won’t find the legendary Sam’s in a chic hotel or sleek mall. But don’t be fooled. These digs in humble Burlington House, a tailoring hub, have hosted everyone from U.S. presidents (back as far as Richard Nixon) to performers such as the Black Eyed Peas, Kylie Minogue, and Blondie. This former uniform tailor to the British troops once even made a suit for Prince Charles in a record hour and 52 minutes. The men’s and women’s tailor does accept 24-hour suit or shirt orders, but will take about two days if you’re not in a hurry. Founded by Naraindas Melwani in 1957, “Sam” is now his son, Manu Melwani, who runs the show with the help of his own son, Roshan, and about 57 tailors behind the scenes. In 2004 Sam’s introduced a computerized bodysuit that takes measurements without a tape measure. (It uses both methods, however.) These tailors also make biannual trips to Europe and North America. (Schedule updates are listed on the website.) | Burlington House, 94 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui | 2367–9423 | www.samstailor.com | Station: Tsim Sha Tsui.
W. W. Chan & Sons Tailors Ltd.
Chan is known for excellent-quality suits and shirts and classic cuts and has an array of fine European fabrics. It’s comforting to know that you’ll be measured and fitted by the same master tailor from start to finish. The Kowloon headquarters features a mirrored, hexagonal changing room so you can check every angle. Tailors from here travel to the United States several times a year to fill orders for their customers; if you have a suit made here and leave your address, they’ll let you know when they plan to visit. | 2nd fl., Burlington House, 92–94 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui | 2366–9738, 2366–2634 | www.wwchan.com | Station: Tsim Sha Tsui.
Amazing Grace.
A charismatic collection of handicrafts from around Asia surrounds you in this store, which first opened in the ‘70s. With locations in terminal one and two, both airport stores house a colorful assortment of Balinese sarongs, signature Suzie Wong cheongsams, hand-painted silk muumuus, Christmas ornaments, beaded Indian accessories, and a wide variety of jade, abalone-shell and silver chopsticks. Find just about anything amid this potpourri of Asian keepsakes. | 7th fl., Shop 192, East Hall, Hong Kong International Airport Terminal One, Lantau Island | 2186–6675 | www.amazinggracehk.com.
Women’s Tailors
Irene Fashions.
In 1987 the women’s division of noted men’s tailor W.W. Chan branched off and was renamed Irene Fashions. You can expect the same level of expertise and a large selection of fine fabrics. Experienced at translating ideas and pictures into clothing, in-house designers will sketch and help you develop concepts. Like its parent company, Irene promises that the same tailor will take you through the entire process, and most of the work is done on-site. | Burlington House, 2nd fl., 92–94 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui | 2367–5588 | www.wwchan.com | Station: Tsim Sha Tsui.
Mode Elegante.
Don’t be deterred by the somewhat dated mannequins in the windows. Mode Elegante is a favorite source for custom-made suits among women and men in the know. Tailors here specialize in European cuts. You’ll have your choice of fabrics from the United Kingdom, Italy, and elsewhere. Your records are put on file so you can place orders from abroad. It’ll even ship the completed garment to you almost anywhere on the planet. Alternatively, you can make an appointment with director Gary Zee, one of Hong Kong’s traveling tailors, who makes regular visits to North America, Europe, and Japan. | 11th fl., Star House, 3 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui | 2366–8153 | www.modeelegante.com | Station: Tsim Sha Tsui.
Yau Ma Tei, Mong Kok, and Northern Kowloon
The bright-lights-big-city look of Tsim Sha Tsui gives way to housing blocks and tenements hung with aging signs north of Jordan Road. Streets are crowded and traffic is manic, but this down-to-earth chaos is what makes shopping in these north Kowloon neighborhoods rewarding. Well, that and all the bargains at the area’s markets. Yau Ma Tei has jade and pearls at Kansu Street; and bric-a-brac and domestic appliances fill atmospheric Temple Street nightly. Farther north are blocks and blocks of brandless clothes and accessories at the Fa Yuen Street Ladies’ Market. Parallel Tung Choi Street has cut-price sporting goods. Goldfish, flowers, and birds each have their own dedicated market in Prince Edward, north of Mong Kok. Yue Hwa’s five-story Jordan shop is one of the best places in Hong Kong for cheap gifts. The arrival of the cavernous Langham Place changed the local landscape here; the user-friendly megamall has lashings of natural light and a sanctuary-like food hall.
Yau Ma Tei
Department Stores
Fodor’s Choice | Yue Hwa Chinese Products Emporium.
Five floors contain Chinese goods, ranging from clothing and housewares through tea and traditional medicine. The logic behind the store’s layout is hard to fathom, so go with time to rifle around. As well as the predictable tablecloths, silk pajamas, and chopstick sets, there are cheap and colorful porcelain sets and offbeat local favorites like mini-massage chairs. The top floor is entirely given over to tea—you can pick up a HK$50 packet of leaves or an antique Yixing teapot stretching into the thousands. | 301–309 Nathan Rd., Jordan, Yau Ma Tei | 3511–2222 | www.yuehwa.com | Station: Jordan.
Electronics, Cameras, and Music
Kubrick.
This is the closest thing to a bilingual community bookshop you’re likely to find in Hong Kong, with its stock of alternative-spirited books, graphic novels, magazines, music, and DVDs in a variety of foreign languages. It’s also attached to a cinema that regularly shows art-house flicks and a casual café serving basic pastas and sandwiches, and hosting occasional poetry readings or music gigs. Come here to get a good, if slightly unpolished, sense of the city’s art culture, and pick up an interesting gift—perhaps a book exploring “a Swiss-Chinese Intercultural Encounter About the Culture of Food” or a photo documentary of Hong Kong’s informal rooftop communities. When seeking directions, ask for the Broadway Cinemateque. | Shop H2, Prosperous Garden, 3 Public Square St., Yau Ma Tei | 2384–8929 | www.kubrick.com.hk | Station: Yau Ma Tei | 6th fl., Millennium City 5 APM, 418 Kwun Tong Rd., Kwun Tong, Northern Kowloon | 3148–1289 | Station: Kwun Tong.
Jewelry
Kansu Street Jade Market.
Jade in every imaginable shade of green, from the milkiest apple tone to the richest emerald, fills the stalls of this Kowloon market. If you know your stuff and haggle insistently, you can get fabulous bargains. Otherwise, stick to cheap trinkets. Some of the so-called “jade” sold here is actually aventurine, bowenite, soapstone, serpentine, and Australian jade—all inferior to the real thing. | Kansu St. off Nathan Rd., Yau Ma Tei | Station: Yau Ma Tei.
Sandra Pearls.
You might be wary of the lustrous pearls hanging at this little Jade Market stall. The charming owner, Sandra, does, in fact, sell genuine and reasonably priced cultured and freshwater pearl necklaces and earrings. Some pieces are made from shell, which Sandra is always quick to point out, and could pass muster among the snobbiest collectors. | Stall 437 and 447, Jade Market, Kansu St., Yau Ma Tei | 9485–2895 | Station: Yau Ma Tei.
Mong Kok
Clothing
Bossini.
A Giordano competitor, Bossini takes a very similar, light approach to casual clothing, as indicated by its brand philosophy, “Be Happy.” Expect colorful collections for women, men, and children. | 6–12A Sai Yeung Choi St., Mong Kok | 2710–8466 | www.bossini.com | Station: Mong Kok | Ground fl., On Lok Yuen Bldg., 27A Des Voeux Rd. Central, Central | 2524–9313 | Station: Central | Ground fl., Cityplaza, 18 Tai Koo Shing Rd., Tai Koo, Eastern | 2967–9789 | Station: Tai Koo.
Me & George.
Anyone who enjoys a good thrift-store rummage will delight in the messy abandon of Me & George (also known as Mee & Gee), not to mention the rock-bottom prices. Clothing items here start at HK$10. Yes, you heard right! Expect a mix of poorly made factory rejects and vintage dresses, shoes, and handbags, and enjoy trying to discern between the two. Fitting is not usually allowed (as is the case with most small fashion import outlets), but staff are often tolerant of quick try-ons in front of a mirror. | 64 Tung Choi St., Mong Kok.
Department Stores
Seibu.
This Japanese department store is actually owned by local tycoon Dickson Poon, who counts Harvey Nichols among his other possessions. Beauty counters, shoes, handbags, and western ready-to-wear labels make up the bulk of its offerings. Expect hip street wear as well as more professional looks. | 1st and 2nd fl., Langham Place, 555 Shanghai St., Mongkok, Kowloon | 2971–3888 | Station: Mongkok.
Electronics, Cameras, and Music
Mong Kok Computer Centre.
This labyrinth of small shops and narrow corridors is somewhat claustrophobic, but it has many good deals on computers and software. Ask for a warranty, and read it carefully. | 8–8A Nelson St., Mong Kok | 2781–0706 | www.mongkokcc.com | Station: Mong Kok.
Home Furnishings
Yuen Po Street Bird Garden.
Though mostly built as a neighborhood park in which bird-owning residents can meet and “walk” their caged pets, the Urban Renewal Authority also included some 70 stalls to be used by those who lost trade when the famous Hong Lok Street songbird stalls were demolished in a revitalization project in the late nineties. Though it sells various kinds of feathered creatures, you can also pick up the picturesque, empty carved cages and put them to better (empty) use in your home decor. Access the main entrance from Boundary Street, a short walk from the Prince Edward MTR station. | Yuen Po St., Mong Kok | 2302–1762 | www.lcsd.gov.hk/parks/ypsbg/en | Station: Prince Edward.
Shoes and Bags
Right Choice Export Fashion Co.
Take a moment to look past the plastic stilettos worthy of an exotic dancer, and you might just discover unfathomably cheap yet stylish shoes (even if they’ll only last one season). The sandals are especially pretty and can cost as little as HK$60. Look for shops like this near most market streets. | Ground fl., 187 Fa Yuen St., Mong Kok | 2394–6953 | Station: Prince Edward.
Sportshouse.
Come here for trendy sneakers and other casual footwear by brands like Nike, Puma, Adidas, Converse, and Birkenstock. | Ground fl., 61 Fa Yuen St., Mong Kok | 2332–3099 | www.sportshouse.com | Station: Mong Kok | Shop B01, Basement fl., The Elegance, Sheraton Hong Kong Hotel and Towers, 20 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui | 2311–2902 | Station: Tsim Sha Tsui | 5th fl., New Town Plaza Phase I, 18 Sha Tin Centre St., Sha Tin, New Territories | 2691–6856 | Station: Shatin.
Malls
Langham Place.
This mall’s light beige sandstone stands in stark contrast to the pulsating neon signs and crumbling residential blocks around it. Yet Langham Place has fast become a fixture of Mong Kok’s chaotic shopping scene, with nearly 300 shops packed into 15 floors. It’s especially popular with hipsters, who come for the local and Japanese labels in offbeat boutiques ranged around a spiral walkway on the 11th and 12th floors. Extra-long escalators—dubbed “Xpresscalators”—whisk you quickly up four levels at a time. The elegant glass-and-steel skyscraper across the road is the Langham Place Hotel, whose stylish dining patio, The Backyard, offers the serenest of outdoor sanctuaries in one of the region’s most congested neighborhoods. | 8 Argyle St., Mong Kok | 3520–2800 | www.langhamplace.com.hk | Station: Mong Kok.
Markets
Flower Market.
Huge bucketfuls of roses and gerbera spill out onto the sidewalk along Flower Market Road, a collection of street stalls selling cut flowers and potted plants. Delicate orchids and vivid birds of paradise are some of the more exotic blooms. During Chinese New Year there’s a roaring trade in narcissi, poinsettias, and bright yellow chrysanthemums, all auspicious flowers. | Flower Market Rd., off Prince Edward Rd. W, Mong Kok | Station: Prince Edward.
Goldfish Market.
Goldfish are considered good luck in Hong Kong (though aquariums have to be positioned in the right place to bring good luck to the family), and this small collection of shops is a favorite local source. Shop fronts are decorated with bag upon bag of glistening, pop-eyed creatures, waiting for someone to take them home. Some of the fishes inside shops are serious rarities and fetch unbelievable prices. | Tung Choi St., Mong Kok | Station: Mong Kok.
Ladies’ Market.
Block upon block of tightly packed stalls overflow with clothes, bags, and knickknacks along Tung Choi Street in Mong Kok. Despite the name, there are clothes for women, men, and children here. Most offerings are imitations or no-name brands; rifle around enough and you can often pick up some cheap and cheerful basics. Haggling is the rule here: a poker face and a little insistence can get you dramatic discounts. At the corner of each block and behind the market are stands and shops selling the street snacks Hong Kongers can’t live without. Pick a place where locals are munching and point at whatever takes your fancy. Parallel Fa Yuen Street is Mong Kok’s unofficial sportswear market. | Tung Choi St., Mong Kok | Station: Mong Kok.
Fodor’s Choice | Temple Street Night Market.
Each night, as it gets dark, the lamps strung between the stalls of this Yau Ma Tei street market slowly light up, and the air fills with the smells wafting from myriad food carts. Hawkers try to catch your eye by flinging clothes up from their stalls. Cantonese opera competes with pop music, and vendors’ cries and shoppers’ haggling fills the air. Adding to the color here are the fortune-tellers and the odd magician or acrobat who has set up shop in the street. Granted, neither the clothes nor cheap gadgets on sale here are much to get excited about, but it’s the atmosphere people come for—any purchases are a bonus. The market stretches for almost a mile and is one of Hong Kong’s liveliest nighttime shopping experiences. | Temple St., Mong Kok | Station: Jordan.
Northern Kowloon
Beauty and Cosmetics
Watsons.
Spread over the city, this chain—the CVS of Hong Kong—sells western medicines and health and beauty products, as well as some traditional Chinese products. Some branches also have pharmacies. | Festival Walk, 80 Tat Chee Ave., Kowloon Tong, Northern Kowloon | 2180–8482 | www.watsons.com.hk | Station: Kowloon Tong.
Electronics, Cameras, and Music
Golden Computer Arcade.
It’s the most famous—some would say infamous—computer arcade in town. Know what you want before you go to avoid being dazed by the volume of computer equipment and software. | 146–152 Fuk Wa St., Sham Shui Po, Northern Kowloon | 2729–2101 | www.goldenarcade.org | Station: Sham Shui Po.
Malls
Fodor’s Choice | Festival Walk.
Don’t be put off by Festival Walk’s location in residential Kowloon Tong—it’s 20 minutes from Central on the MTR. Make the effort to get here: Festival Walk has everything from Giordano (Hong Kong’s answer to the Gap) to Vivienne Tam. By day the six floors sparkle with sunlight, which filters through the glass roof. Marks & Spencer and DKNY serve as anchors; Armani Exchange and ck Calvin Klein draw the elite crowds; while Camper and agnès b. keep the trend spotters happy. Hong Kong’s best bookstore, Page One, has a big branch downstairs. The mall also has one of the city’s largest ice rinks, as well as a multiplex cinema, perfect if you’re shopping with kids who want a respite from the sometimes scorching-hot weather. | 80 Tat Chee Ave., Kowloon Tong, Northern Kowloon | 2844–2200 | www.festivalwalk.com.hk | Station: Kowloon Tong.
Mega Box.
This 18-story mall is a great option for family shopping expeditions: those with minimal shopping stamina can amuse themselves at the video arcade, the IMAX theater, or the skating rink, and there are also numerous eateries. However, unlike other malls that are walking distance from MTR stations, visitors need to take its free shuttle from the Kowloon Bay MTR station. To catch the shuttle, exit the MTR station at Exit A and go through Telford Plaza; you can always ask the Plaza concierge if you’re confused. Shuttles run about every 10 minutes. | 38 Wang Chiu Rd., Kowloon Bay, Northern Kowloon | 2989–3000 | www.megabox.com.hk | Station: Kowloon Bay.
Shop Smart
Do some research beforehand and know what you want. Then ask lots of questions and compare prices before making a purchase. Stick to shops listed in the HKTB’s free Guide to Quality Shops. Featured shops usually have the “qts” logo on their door or window.
Here are a few other considerations:
- Be aware of regional differences. Although technology is moving toward multisystem capabilities, it’s not quite there yet. DVDs and players might work in only a specific region. Some recording equipment still works on only NTSC (United States), PAL (Hong Kong, Australia, Great Britain, most of continental Europe), or SECAM (France, Russia). Whenever possible, ask for “region-free.” Also, although most electronics now automatically convert between 110 and 220 volts, it’s best to ask before you buy.
- Check the paperwork. Reputable dealers should give you a one-year worldwide guarantee; however, not all guarantees and warranties cross borders. Make sure you’ll have the customer service and assistance you require when you take it back home. Some of the cheapest electronics in Hong Kong are parallel imports, which rarely have international warranties. Also, make sure the instructions are in English.
- Never be rushed. Don’t be afraid to walk away, even if a clerk claims an item is the last one in stock. This will give you more bargaining power, as will buying several items at once.
- Be wary of “great” deals. A common ploy is to lure customers in with the promise of a great deal, only to “discover” that item is suddenly out of stock. When you’re offered a more expensive alternative, walk away.
- Test the equipment. Be sure that the picture or sound quality is truly good. If a shopkeeper cannot oblige a test-run request, ask him or her to direct you to the manufacturer’s showroom.
- Watch for hidden fees. Paying by credit card may increase the final bill by 3% to 5%, even though most card companies prohibit the practice.
- Don’t fall for the old bait and switch. Before you leave the store, double-check that you’ve been given the model you selected and that everything it comes with is there, including all parts, accessories, the warranty card, and your invoice.
New Territories
The best shopping to be had beyond Boundary Street—the official start of the New Territories—is in malls. Luminous, spacious, and with an excellent selection of shops, Kowloon Tong’s Festival Walk is one of the most pleasant such places in town. New Town Plaza in Sha Tin is easily reached by KCR and has some local brands hard to get in Central or Kowloon.
Malls and Centers
New Town Plaza.
If you’re looking to come down to fashion earth after the designer heaven that is Central, Sha Tin’s New Town Plaza is a great bet. Decidedly off the beaten path, the New Territories’ best mall has more than 350 midrange shops and restaurants anchored by Marks & Spencer and Japanese department store Seibu. The usual local suspects abound, but lesser known local brands like Pedder Red also have stores. A huge multiplex cinema draws crowds on weekends. New Town Plaza is also home to two of Hong Kong’s kitschier attractions: a musical fountain and Snoopy’s World, celebrating Schultz’s hound. | 18 Sha Tin Centre St., Sha Tin, New Territories | 2699–5992 | www.newtownplaza.com.hk | Station: Sha Tin.
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