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Getting Here and Around

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Visitors can choose from many public transportation options in Hong Kong, and they are all generally clean, safe, and cheap. The first step is to get an Octopus stored-value card from any MTR or Airport Express Station; this is a good alternative to carrying around exact change and can be used on all public transportation. The initial cost of an Octopus Card is HK$150, and you will have HK$100 available for your use right away. The remaining HK$50 is a refundable deposit that provides a buffer in case you go beyond the card’s value. You can top up the card at ticket counters or Add Value machines at any MTR station, or at convenience stores, supermarkets, or fast-food chains. These retail outlets also accept the card as a mode of payment, as do many other places, including coffee chains, clothing stores, and vending machines.

When boarding a bus or entering a subway, simply look for the rectangular yellow sensor (on top of the MTR turnstiles or next to the fare-box on buses and minibuses) and place the card on it until you hear a beep. The sensors are sensitive enough to scan through wallets and bags, so you don’t need to take your card out. Once your card has been read, the remaining balance appears on the sensor screen.

Before you leave Hong Kong, you can refund your Octopus Card at MTR stations, and you will receive the balance plus the HK$50 deposit. However, if you return your card less than three months after it’s been issued, you’ll have to pay a refund processing fee of HK$9.

Information Octopus Cards. | 2266–2222 | www.octopus.com.hk.

Air Travel

Flying time to Hong Kong is around 16 hours nonstop from Newark/New York, 15½ hours nonstop from Los Angeles, or 14 hours nonstop from San Francisco.

Airlines and Airports Airline and Airport Links.com. Airline and Airport Links.com has links to many of the world’s airlines and airports. | www.airlineandairportlinks.com.

Airline Security Issues Transportation Security Agency. | www.tsa.gov/public.

Airports

Modern, easy to navigate, and full of amenities, Hong Kong International Airport (HKG)—also known as Chek Lap Kok, after its location—is a traveler’s dream. Terminal 1, the third-largest terminal in the world, services the departures for most major airlines, as well as all arriving flights. The newer but smaller Terminal 2 handles all other airlines, including budget carriers.

Given the size of Terminal 1, it’s advisable to check in early, at least two hours before departure (although check-in counters usually close 50 minutes before departure). Some boarding gates are quite far from immigrations, and you will need to take a short train ride to reach them. Most major airlines let you use the In-Town Check-in service at the Hong Kong or Kowloon Airport Express stations anywhere from 24 hours to 90 minutes before your flight (confirm with your airline first), and you can check luggage as well, saving you the bother of lugging bags out to the airport.

Once you’re at the airport, there are multiple options for meals and refreshments, from fast-food outlets and cafés to restaurants and bars. Many open as early as 6 am and close as late as midnight. Beyond immigrations in Terminal 1, you’ll find a few places that are open 24 hours, including Café de Coral and McDonald’s on Level 7 of the Departures East Hall and the Starbucks at Departures Central Concourse, Level 6, and Departures Check-in Hall, Level 7.

You can also do some last-minute shopping in both terminals, although most luxury brands can be found only in Terminal 1. Travelers who would rather find a place to relax before their flight can do so in one of the four fee-for-use lounges. Three of the lounges are in Terminal 1, while the Plaza Premium Lounge is located at the Arrivals Hall between the two terminals. These 24-hour lounges have rest areas, showers, massages, Internet access, TV, reading materials, and hot meals. A 10-hour package costs HK$700, and shorter stays are correspondingly cheaper.

There are also free resting lounges (without showers and other perks) and miniature gardens with comfortable seating at the Departure Level near Gates 21, 26, 34, 41, and 61. You can also access free public Wi-Fi or use one of the 56 computers available at 28 different locations in Terminal 1. There are also three nondenominational prayer rooms in the airport, two of which are open 24 hours.

When arriving in Hong Kong, you’ll be asked to fill out an immigrations form. An immigrations officer will collect the arrivals slip, and you will have to keep the departure slip to show immigrations when you leave Hong Kong. Airport tax is normally included in your ticket price. If it’s not, a fee of HK$120 is payable on departure from the country. It’s levied only on those 12 years and older and is waived for all transit and transfer passengers who arrive and leave on the same day.

Airport Information Hong Kong International Airport. | 2181–8888 | www.hongkongairport.com. Plaza Premium Lounge. | 2261–0888 | www.plaza-network.com.

Ground Transportation

The Airport Express train service is the quickest and most convenient way to and from the airport. Gleaming, high-speed trains whisk you to Kowloon in 21 minutes and Central in 24 minutes. Trains run daily every 10 minutes between 5:54 am and 11:28 pm and every 12 minutes between 11:28 pm and 12:58 am. The last train from the airport departs at 12:48 am. The trains have Wi-Fi, plenty of luggage space, legroom, and comfortable seating with video screens on the backs of the passenger seats showing tourist information and the latest news. Although this is the most expensive public transport option, the speed and dependability justify the extra cost.

The Airport Express station is connected to the MTR’s AsiaWorld-Expo, Tsing Yi, Kowloon, and Hong Kong (Central) stations. Excluding the AsiaWorld stop, all stations connect to the MTR. One-way or same-day return fare to or from Central is HK$100; to and from Kowloon, HK$90. Round-trip tickets valid for one month cost HK$180 for Central and HK$160 for Kowloon. The Airport Express Travel Pass is an option if you are planning a very short stay, as it allows you unlimited travel on the MTR for 72 hours after activation; the HK$220 pass includes a single airport journey and the HK$300 pass includes an airport round-trip.

Tickets are cheaper if purchased online or through a travel agent. The Airport Express also provides its customers with free porter service, and shuttle buses run every 12 or 20 minutes between major hotels and the Hong Kong and Kowloon stations—there are seven routes, and a list of stops is displayed prominently at the boarding area. Service begins at 6:12 am and ends at 11:12 pm. To board, you must show your Airport Express ticket and airline ticket/boarding pass.

Citybus runs five buses (“A” precedes the bus number) from the airport to popular destinations. They make fewer stops than regular buses (which have an “E” before their numbers) do, so the fare is higher. Two useful routes are the A11, serving Central, Admiralty, Wan Chai, and Causeway Bay and ending in North Point; and the A21, going to Tsim Sha Tsui, Jordan, and Mong Kok. The A11’s operating hours are from 6:10 am to 12:30 am, while the A21 runs from 6 am to 12 am. Should you arrive in Hong Kong outside of these hours, you can take the N11 or the N21, which are overnight buses serving the same routes. The buses are comfortable and provide free Wi-Fi. There is adequate space for luggage, and the onboard announcements are in Cantonese, Putonghua, and English, so you won’t miss your stop.

Several small shuttle buses with an “S” before their numbers run to the nearby Tung Chung MTR station, where you can get the MTR to Central and Kowloon. MTR trains run parallel to the Airport Express route, but they cost much less (HK$22.50 from the airport to Central). However, you won’t have the same amenities, and travel time is longer as the trains make more stops.

Taxis from the airport are reliable and plentiful. Trips to Hong Kong Island destinations cost around HK$280, while those to Kowloon are around HK$230. There is also a HK$5 charge per piece of luggage stored in the trunk. Trans-Island runs the Airport Hotelink coach service, which stops at 45 hotels on Hong Kong Island and Kowloon. The coaches depart every 30–60 minutes for HK$150 to destinations on Hong Kong Island, HK$130 to those in Kowloon. Parklane Limousine Service’s coaches run at 30-minute intervals, with fares for Hong Kong Island at HK$140 and Kowloon at HK$130. Parklane also offers Mercedes-Benz limousine transfers for HK$550–HK$850, depending on the destination and type of car.

Flights

Cathay Pacific is Hong Kong’s flagship carrier. It maintains high standards, with friendly service, good food, an extensive in-flight entertainment system, and an excellent track record for safety. Cathay has nonstop flights from both Los Angeles and San Francisco on the West Coast and from New York–JFK on the East Coast, with connecting services to many other U.S. cities. Singapore Airlines is also another highly rated airline with flights to Hong Kong from multiple American cities, including daily flights from San Francisco. However, these are not nonstop, as the routing usually includes a stopover and/or change in Singapore.

If you are on a tight budget, Air China and China Airlines offer lower-cost flights between New York and Los Angeles and Hong Kong, although the savings are reflected in the service and amenities. Several other airlines also offer service from the United States to Hong Kong, usually with connections in Asia.

If you’re planning to travel to three or four Asian destinations, you might want to consider a One World’s Visit Asia Pass, which provides travel throughout Southeast Asia via a consortium of airlines. Cities are grouped into zones, and there’s a flat rate for each zone. The pass doesn’t cover flights from the United States, Europe, or Australia and New Zealand, however. Inquire through American Airlines, Cathay Pacific, or any other One World member.

Airlines Air China. | 800/882–8122 in U.S. | www.airchina.us. Cathay Pacific Airways. | 800/233–2742 in U.S., 800/268–6868 in Canada, 2747–1888 in Hong Kong | www.cathay-usa.com. China Airlines. | 800/227–5118 in U.S., 2868–2299 in Hong Kong | www.china-airlines.com. Singapore Airlines. | 800/742–3333 in U.S., 800/663–3046 in Canada, 0208/961–6993 in U.K., 13–10–11 in Australia, 2520–2233 in Hong Kong | www.singaporeair.com. Visit Asia Pass. | www.oneworld.com.

Boat and Ferry Travel

With fabulous views of both sides of Victoria Harbour, the Star Ferry is so much more than just a boat. It’s an iconic Hong Kong landmark in its own right, and has been running across the harbor since 1888. Double-bowed, green-and-white vessels connect Central and Wan Chai with Kowloon in less than 10 minutes, daily from 6:30 am to 11:30 pm. The ride costs HK$2.50 on the upper deck on weekdays and HK$3.40 on weekends and public holidays, making it the cheapest scenic harbor tour in town. You can use your Octopus Card or cash to pay the fare.

There are also regular ferry services to outlying islands, such as Lantau, Lamma, and Cheung Chau. Ordinary ferries are cheaper but slower, while fast ferries travel at twice the speed for twice the price. You can look up schedules online or pick up printed copies at the Hong Kong Tourist Board (HKTB) info center at the Tsim Sha Tsui Star Ferry Concourse, call the HKTB Visitor Hotline, or simply ask for a schedule at the ferry ticket counters.

Bus Travel

An efficient network of double-decker buses covers most of Hong Kong, often with stops at locations that are not accessible via MTR. Figuring out routes, however, may be a bit daunting for tourists. Drivers don’t usually speak English, and routes listed at bus stops may be confusing. Your best bet is to look up your destination on Google Maps, which will display nearby bus and minibus stops. Click on the bus icon to display the bus numbers, as well as the bus company that runs the service. You can then check the route numbers at the bus company’s website to see which bus to take. Citybus and New World First Bus share a common website, as do Kowloon Motor Bus and Long Win Bus Company.

More intrepid visitors who enjoy thrill rides can take a chance on a minibus. These cream-colored vehicles seat 16 people and rattle through the city at breakneck speeds. Routes and prices are prominently displayed in front. While convenient and faster than buses, minibuses are risky if you aren’t sure of your destination. There are designated stops, but minibus drivers will also pick up and drop off passengers at other points along the way. To get off, you’ll have to shout out to the driver and hold on tight as he screeches to a halt.

Fares

Double-decker bus fares range from HK$2.50 to HK$48; minibus fares from HK$2 to HK$20. The best way to pay is by Octopus Card. Otherwise, you’ll need to give exact change. Some minibuses, particularly the overnight ones, accept only cash, but they do give you change.

Bus Information Citybus. | 2873–0818 | www.nwstbus.com.hk. Kowloon Motor Bus. | 2745–4466 | www.kmb.com.hk. Long Win Bus Company. | 2745–4466 | www.kmb.com.hk. New World First Bus. | 2136–8888 | www.nwstbus.com.hk.

Car Travel

Frankly, you’d be mad to rent a car on Hong Kong Island or in Kowloon. Maniac drivers, traffic jams, and next-to-no parking make driving here severely stress-inducing, and gasoline costs up to twice what it does in the United States. So why bother, when public transportation is excellent and taxis inexpensive? If you must have your own wheels, consider hiring a driver. Most top-end hotels can arrange this; the Peninsula in Kowloon and the Island Shangri-La even have their own fleets of chauffeur-driven Rolls-Royces and Mercedes available for hourly hire by guests. Avis can also provide chauffeur services along with car rentals.

If you’re determined to drive yourself, your driver’s license is valid in Hong Kong for up to a year if you’re 18 to 70 years old (those over 70 must pass a physical examination before driving). You’ll need an International Driver’s Permit (HK$80) for longer stays. Check the AAA and Hong Kong Transport Department websites for more info.

The cheapest option for car rentals is Hawk Rent-a-Car, which has lots of models and prices; there are special rates for weekends and longer-term rentals. Rental rates begin at HK$450 per day and HK$3,700 per week for an economy car with air-conditioning, automatic transmission, and unlimited mileage. Parklane Limousine has a fleet of more than 100 Mercedes-Benzes with hourly rates for chauffeur services.

Information Hawk Rent-a-Car. | 2516–9822 | www.hawkrentacar.com.hk. Parklane Limousine. | 2730–0662 | www.hongkonglimo.com.

Parking

There’s next to no on-street parking in Central and Tsim Sha Tsui, and the extremely vigilant Hong Kong traffic police hand out copious parking tickets.

Most people use multistory or mall parking garages, which cost up to HK$22 per hour in prime locations. However, some malls will subsidize parking if you make purchases at their shops or eat in one of their restaurants. Be sure to have the receipt validated by the staff before leaving.

Rules of the Road

Driving is on the left-hand side of the road in Hong Kong. Wearing a seat belt is mandatory in the front and back of private cars, and the standard speed limit is 50 kph (30 mph) unless road signs state otherwise. The Hong Kong Police spend a lot of time setting up photographic speed traps and giving out juicy fines. Using handheld cell phones while driving is forbidden. You can’t make a right turn on a red light, and you should scrupulously obey lane markings regarding turns. Drunk driving is taken very seriously: the legal limit is 50 mg of alcohol per 100 ml of blood (or 22 micrograms of alcohol per 100 ml of breath), and there are penalties of up to HK$25,000 and three years in prison for those who disobey. You can get highly detailed information on Hong Kong’s road rules on the Transport Department’s website.

Road Rules Hong Kong Government Transport Department. | 2804–2600 hotline | www.td.gov.hk.

Cruise Travel

Star Cruises has trips through Southeast Asia that start from, or call at, Hong Kong. The crème de la crème of cruisers, Cunard, docks in Hong Kong on its round-the-world trips. Princess Cruises has a wide variety of packages that call at Hong Kong and many other Asian destinations. Holland America has two-week Asian cruises as well as round-the-world options. Be sure to check out last-minute special offers from all these lines.

Subway Travel

By far the best way to get around Hong Kong is on the Mass Transit Railway (MTR). Since merging with the former Kowloon-Canton Railway (KCR) in late 2007, the MTR network now provides all subway and train services in Hong Kong. The trains are among the cleanest in the world; there is hardly any litter to be found. Eating or drinking on the trains or in the paid areas is prohibited, with fines of HK$2,000.

Entrances, platforms, and exits are clearly marked and signposted, and all MTR areas are air-conditioned and Wi-Fi enabled. Most stations have wheelchair access, and all have convenience stores and other shops or services. Fourteen MTR stations have free Wi-Fi, as well as computer terminals with free Internet access.

The MTR is known for its safety, even late at night. Glass screens have been installed between the edges of platforms and tracks, preventing falls and other mishaps. Emergency stop buttons and help lines are easy to access and ensure instant response from the MTR staff.

Trains run every 2 to 8 minutes during peak times between 6 am and 1 am daily.

The five major lines are color-coded for convenience. The Island line (blue line) runs along the north coast of Hong Kong Island; the Tsuen Wan line (red line) goes from Central under the harbor to Tsim Sha Tsui, then up to the western New Territories. Mong Kok links Tsim Sha Tsui to eastern New Kowloon via the Kwun Tong line (green line). Also serving this area is the Tseung Kwan O line (purple line), which crosses back over the harbor to Quarry Bay and North Point. Finally, the Tung Chung line (yellow line) connects Central and West Kowloon to Tung Chung on Lantau, near the airport.

Fares and Schedules

You can buy tickets from ticket machines (using coins or notes) or from English-speaking staff behind glass-windowed customer-service counters near the turnstile entrances. Fares range from HK$3.70 to HK$42.50, depending how far you travel. You can check on the MTR website or download an app to see how much a journey will cost. There are no monthly or weekly passes, but if you plan to make more than a few trips on public transport during your stay, it’s worth getting a rechargeable Octopus Card (). It saves time lining up for tickets and fussing for change, gives you a discounted fare on each trip, and can also be used for small purchases around Hong Kong.

Another alternative is the Tourist Day Pass. For HK$55, this pass allows you unlimited travel on the MTR, excluding the Airport Express, for one day only. However, you cannot use the pass on other public transport or to purchase items.

Information HKTB Visitor Hotline. | 2508–1234. MTR. | 2881–8888 | www.mtr.com.hk.

Taxi Travel

While there are some 18,000 taxis in Hong Kong, heavy daytime traffic in Central, Causeway Bay, and Tsim Sha Tsui means they aren’t the best option for getting around the city quickly. They’re more useful outside these areas, or after dark, especially after the MTR closes. Drivers usually know the terrain well, but, as many don’t speak English, having your destination written in Chinese is a good idea. You can hail cabs on the street, provided you’re in a stopping area (i.e., not marked by double yellow lines). The white “taxi” sign is lit when the cab is available. Not all taxis will drive from Hong Kong Island to Kowloon (or vice versa). You can usually identify cross-harbor taxis by the red, plastic “No service” sign on their dashboards; you’ll find cross-harbor taxi ranks at the Star Ferry terminal and elsewhere around town. Note that it’s sometimes hard to find a taxi around 4 pm, when the drivers switch shifts.

Taxis operating in urban Hong Kong are red. Fares for red taxis start at HK$20 for the first 2 km (1½ mile), then HK$1.50 for each .2 km (.1 mile) or minute of waiting time (so fares add up fast in bumper-to-bumper traffic). After the fare reaches HK$72.5, you’re charged HK$1 for each .2 km or minute of waiting time.

There’s a surcharge of HK$5 for each piece of luggage you put in the trunk. The Cross-Harbour Tunnel, Eastern Harbour Crossing, and Western Harbour Crossing all incur surcharges of the toll plus HK$10 or HK$15 return toll. The surcharge for crossing the Tsing Ma Bridge over to Lantau is HK$30. Passengers must pay the toll amount for other tunnels and roads.

In the New Territories taxis are green; on Lantau they’re blue. Fares are lower than in urban areas, but while red urban taxis may travel into rural zones, rural green and blue taxis can’t cross into urban zones.

Passengers are required by law to wear a seat belt when available. Most locals don’t tip; however, if you round up the fare by a few Hong Kong dollars you’re sure to earn yourself a winning smile from your underpaid and overworked driver. Taxis are usually reliable, but if you have a problem, note the taxi’s license number, which is usually on the dashboard, and call the Transport Complaints Unit. If you’ve left an item behind in your taxi, you can call the Road Co-op Lost Property hotline.

In urban areas it’s as easy and safe to hail a cab on the street as it is to call one. There are hundreds of taxi companies, so it’s usually best to get your hotel or restaurant to call a company it works with. Note that there’s a HK$5 surcharge for phone bookings.

Contacts Hong Kong Kowloon Taxi & Lorry Owners Association Ltd. | 2572–0097. Kowloon Taxi Owners Association (red taxi booking). | 2760–0411.

Complaints Transport Complaints Unit. | 2889–9999. Lost Property on Taxis Hotline (24 hours). | 1872–920. Road Co-op Lost Property. | 1872–920.

Train Travel

Since the former Kowloon–Canton Railway (KCR) merged with the MTR subway system in 2007, all trains now run under the MTR name (The ultra-efficient train network connects Kowloon to the eastern and western New Territories. Trains run every 5–8 minutes, and connections to the subway are relatively quick. This is a commuter service and, like the subway, has sparkling-clean trains and stations—smoking and eating are forbidden in both.

The train network has three main lines. The East Rail line begins at Hung Hom, with notable stops at Mong Kok, Kowloon Tong, Sha Tin, Racecourse, Chinese University, and Tai Po on its way to Lo Wu at the mainland Chinese border. East Rail is the fastest way to get to Shenzhen—it’s a 40-minute trip from Hung Hom to Lo Wu. The Hung Hom train station terminus connects via a series of walkways with East Tsim Sha Tsui; you can also transfer to the subway at Kowloon Tong.

The short Ma On Shan Rail service starts at Tai Wai and has eight stops in the northeastern New Territories.

West Rail starts at East Tsim Sha Tsui, moves on to Tsim Sha Tsui for a possible connection to the subway, then extends westward through 10 more stops to Tuen Mun, in the New Territories. Here West Rail connects with the local Light Rail Transit, an above-ground train serving mainly residential and industrial areas in the western New Territories.

Fares range from HK$3.10 to HK$42.50; you can pay by Octopus Card or buy tickets from sales counters or ticket machines.

Tram Travel

Peak Tram

It’s Hong Kong’s greatest misnomer—the Peak Tram is actually a funicular railway. Since 1888 it’s been rattling the 1,365 feet up the hill from Mid-Levels to the Victoria Peak tram terminus. As well as a sizable adrenaline rush due to the steepness of the ascent, on a clear day the trip offers fabulous panoramas. Most passengers board at the Lower Terminus between Garden Road and Cotton Tree Drive. (The tram has five stations.) The fare is HK$28 one way, HK$40 round-trip, and the tram runs every 10–15 minutes between 7 am and midnight daily. Bus 15C shuttles passengers between the Lower Terminus and the Star Ferry.

Street Trams

Old-fashioned double-decker trams have been running along the northern shore of Hong Kong Island since 1904. There is bench seating on the lower deck and seats on the upper one, although trams are now being renovated to replace the benches with single seating, and the entrance turnstiles with electronic barriers. Most routes start in Kennedy Town or Western Market, and go eastward all the way through Central, Wan Chai, Causeway Bay, North Point, and Quarry Bay to Shau Kei Wan. A branch line turns off in Wan Chai toward Happy Valley, where horse races are held in season.

Destinations are marked on the front of each tram and route maps are displayed at the stops; you board at the back and get off at the front, paying HK$2.30 regardless of distance (by Octopus or with exact change) as you leave. Avoid trams at rush hours, which are generally weekdays from 7:30 to 9:30 am and 5 to 7:30 pm. Although trams move slowly, for short hops between Central and Western or Admiralty they can be quicker than going underground to take the MTR. A leisurely top-deck ride from Western to Causeway Bay is a great city tour. Note, though, that there is no air-conditioning on trams.

Tram Information Hong Kong Tramways. | 2548–7102 | www.hktramways.com. Peak Tram. | 2522–0922 | www.thepeak.com.hk.

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