SURF IS WHERE
YOU FIND IT

At Patagonia, we publish a collection of books that reflect our pursuits and our values—books on wilderness, outdoor sports, innovation, and a commitment to environmental activism.

Copyright 2007 Patagonia

Revised edition copyright 2015 Patagonia

Text © Gerry Lopez

Foreword © Rob Machado and Steve Pezman

All photograph copyrights are held by the photographers as indicated in captions.

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be used or reproduced in any manner whatsoever without written permission from publisher and copyright holders. Requests should be mailed to Patagonia Books, Patagonia, Inc., 259 W. Santa Clara St., Ventura, CA 93001-2545

REVISED EDITION

Editor: John Dutton

Photo Editor: Jane Sievert

Design: Scott Massey

Production: Rafael Dunn

Printed in China on 100% recycled paper

Front Cover: Art Brewer

Library of Congress Control Number 2014954048

Hardcover ISBN 978-1-938340-43-7

Print ISBN 978-1-938340-26-0

eBook ISBN 978-1-938340-25-3

Versions of “Sweet Candy Days,” “Pakala,” “A First Time at the Pipeline,” “Dr. Surf,” “RB,” “A Giant Among Men,” “Herbie,” “The Fastest Wave in the World,” “Flippy,” “Momentary Entertainment,” “Jan’s Board,” “Everything Bad Happens in Parking Lots,” “Caught Inside Again,” “The Money Motive,” “Incident at Eke Moku,” “The Mother of All Pipeline Swells,” “The Edge of Panic,” “A Good Day to Die,” “Tales of Indonesia,” “Jungle Love,” “Treasure Islands,” “The Mile-Long Rides,” “Chile,” “Get It While You Can,” “The Country,” “Whitey and the Duke,” “The Last Laugh,” “A Good Deal,” “Cannons,” and “The Coral Cruiser” were previously published in Surf 1st magazine.

Versions of “The Track of the Cat,” “No Prisoners,” “The Big Swim,” and “The Best Surfer in the Flesh” were previously published in Free & Easy magazine.

Versions of “Caught Inside Again,” “G-Land,” and “The Best Surfer in the Flesh” were previously published in Water magazine.

A version of “Incident at Eke Moku” was previously published in a Patagonia catalog.

Versions of “A Giant Among Men,” “Big Wally,” and “The Country” were previously published in The Surfer’s Journal.

A version of “Pakala” was previously published in Bamboo Ridge: Journal of Hawai’i Literature and Arts.

A version of “Jungle Love” was previously published in The Surfer’s Path magazine.

Versions of “Comin’ Down,” “Big Wally,” “The Demise of the Ditch,” “A Big Score,” “The Gorge,” and “A Saturday at Ala Moana” were previously published in Nalu, The Longboarder’s Magazine.