signs like clear eyes bulging from the head, bright pink or red gills, flesh that is firm to the touch, and smell of the sea. In reality, most people are buying fish already filleted or steaked, making it harder to choose, but not impossible.

2. Make sure that the pieces of fish you want have a bright fles h — whether i t’ s salmon, tuna, or halibu t— the flesh should look like it was just cut.

3. The flesh should have a tight grain, not gaping spaces on the surface.

4. There should not be any brown spots, or any discoloration making the fish look yellowed. Above all else, make sure the fish is moist, dried-out fish on sale for a discount is there for a reason, which is that the market needs to get rid of it.

5. If you have any questions, ask the counter employee to put a fillet on a sheet of butcher paper and hold it for you to get a whiff. If it does n’ t have a clean, fresh odor, go with something else.

I t’ s never a good idea to freeze fish, but you may have just been presented a gift of fresh fillets that you ca n’ t possibly use all at once. If you know for sure the fish is fresh, and has not been previously frozen and thawed, there are some things to know.

1. The connective tissues in fish are very delicate and easily break down during the freezing and thawing process. No cooking method can restore lost moisture or flavor.

2. Wrap individual fillets in at least two layers of plastic wrap . Even if you have a home-version vacuum sealer, wrap the fillets in plastic first. I t’ s the cold air of the freezer that will draw the moisture out, so minimize that contact as much as possible.

3. Lay the wrapped pieces in a single layer in the freezer. When they are completely frozen, you may put all the pieces in a resealable bag, but do not freeze the fresh fillets in one large bundle.

4. Most home freezers do not go below 0°F, which means the spoiling process will slow down, but not be eliminated. Be sure to date and label each piece of fish you freeze and rotate them if necessary to use the oldest pieces first. If i t’ s all the same date, plan a barbecue party and cook it all.

5. Thawing is critical with all frozen food, but most critically with fresh fish. Let the wrapped pieces sit on a plate in the bottom part of the refrigerator until thawed out, and keep them there until the grill is ready.

Once you have your fish home, i t’ s time to get them on the grill. Different recipes will have specific instructions, but in general, the following directions can be used