bright red, about 7 minutes. Cool immediately in a large bowl of ice water to stop the cooking.

If you would rather not deal with a live lobster, buy one that has been cooked but not frozen from the fishmonger.

Remove the cooked lobster meat from the tail, claws, and knuckles. Remove the cartilage in the claws and cut the meat into half-inch-sized pieces. Set aside and reserve the shells for the sauce.

1. To make the Mashed Potatoes, place the potato chunks in a large saucepan and cover with cold water. Bring to a medium boil and cook until tender, about 20 minutes. Drain the cooked potatoes and let them dry in the colander for about

30 minutes.

2. Melt the butter with the milk, salt, and pepper over low heat. Put the potatoes in the bowl of an electric mixer and add the butter mixture at low speed. When all the liquid has been added, raise the speed of the mixer until the potatoes are whipped and creamy. Set aside and keep warm.

3. For the Lobster Sauce, heat the canola oil in a large saucepan. Sauté the onion, celery, and carrots until softened and only very lightly browned.

4. Cut up the lobster shells and add them to the sauté, stirring frequently for about

5 minutes.

5. Clear a space in the center of the saucepan and add the tomato paste. Stir rapidly with the shells and vegetables, keeping the flame low enough so that the paste does n’ t burn. Cook the tomato paste for 2 minutes. Carefully pour in the sherry and let it reduce by half, stirring frequently.

6. Add the bay leaf and black peppercorns, then stir in the whipping cream. Bring the mixture to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer for 30 minutes.

7. Make a paste of the butter and flour by mixing it together with your hands.

8. Strain the sauce through a large china cap (chinoise) or strainer into a clean saucepa n, pushing down on the vegetables and shells with enough pressure to extract all the liquid from the solids. Discard the solids and bring the sauce back to a simmer. Whisk in the butter and flour mixture piece by piece, until it is all incorporated and the sauce is thickened.

9. Stir in the thyme leaves and season with the salt and pepper. Simmer 5 minutes more, then check the seasonings and adjust if necessary.

10. Stir in the lobster meat and keep the sauce warm.